FASHION STUDIES

Laver's Law

"indecent" 10 years before its time "shameless" 5 years before its time "outré" 1 year before its time "smart" in its time "dowdy" 1 year after its time "hideous" 10 years after its time "ridiculous" 20 years after its time 150 years after its time...a style will be considered beautiful

Principles of Fashion

1. Consumers establish fashions by accepting or rejecting the styles offered 2. Fashions are not based on price 3. Fashions are evolutionary in nature 4. No amount of sales promotion car change the direction in which fashions are moving 5. Fashions all end in excess

Culmination Stage can be extended in 2 ways...

1. If a fashion becomes accepted as a classic 2. If new details of design, color or texture are continually introduced.

4 Major Environment Factors that affect Fashion Interest and Demand:

1. Market Segmentation 2. The degree of economic development and well-being of a country or society 3. The sociological characteristics of the class structure 4. The psychological attitudes of customers

People have two deep-seated wishes when it comes to fashion...

1. to express themselves as individuals 2. to be a part of a group To dress in the latest fashion: people are trying to be individual yet to also belong

Style

A characteristic or distinctive artistic expression or presentation. Styles exist not only in fashion but architecture, sculpture, painting, politics and music

A trend

A general direction or movement several designers (including leading) are showing, leading retailers buying, fashion forward customers wearing A trend can originate anywhere, has a solid foundation that supports its growth, a fad does not

Difference between a style and a fashion

A style is usually a creation from an artist or designer A fashion is a result of social emulation and acceptance Style may be old or new, beautiful or ugly, bad or good, style is still a style even if it never receives an acceptance or approval A style does not become a fashion until it gains some popular acceptance

1990S POPULAR ITEMS

Chunky shoes, chinos

Lengths of Cycles

Declines are fast, a drop to obsolescence is almost always steeper than a rise to culmination. at the point of obsolescence, as they say in merchandising, "you can't give it away"

1st Fashion Misconception

Designers and retailers dictate what fashion will be and then force it upon consumers- it has been said the industry is compared to "obsolescence ogres" In reality, consumers themselves decide what the fashion will be by influencing new designs and by accepting or rejecting the styles offered consumers- "variety vultures"

Adaptations

Designs that have all dominant features of the style that inspired them but do ot claim to be exact copies

The first-ever retrospective exhibition for a living designer (Yves Saint Laurent) was designed for The Costume Institute in the 1980s by

Diana Vreeland

Consumer Buying and the Fashion Cycle

Every Fashion has a consumer buying cycle and a consumer use cycle The curve of the buying cycle rises in direct relation to that of the use cycle When a fashion reaches its peak, buying declines more rapidly than use

2nd Fashion Misconception

Fashion acts as an influence on women only. Men and children are as influenced by and responsive to fashion as women

Silhouette

Its overall outline or contour (shape or form) 3 basic forms: straight or tubular bell-shaped or bouffant the bustle or back fullness with variations: slim rectangle wedge a-line

Primary goal of marketing efforts

Match products and services closely to the wants and needs of a carefully defined target market, to ensure maximum profitability for the producer, satisfaction for the customer

Introduction Stage

New styles are almost always introduced in higher-priced merchandise in small quantities (since retail fashion buyers purchase a limited number of pieces to test the new style's appeal" The testing period comes at the beginning of the buying cycle of fashion merchandise, which coincides with the introduction stage of the fashion cycle Test period ends when the new style begins its rise or has been rejected by the target customer Many risks so new styles must be priced high enough that those that succeed can cover the losses of those that fail Promotional activities designer appearances, institutional advertising, charity fashion shows- appeal to the fashion leaders of the community as well enhance the store's fashion image (take place at this point)

Taste

Prevailing opinion of what is and what is not attractive and appropriate for a given occasion

Clothing is a...

Social Statement

Mass Fashion and Volume Fashion

Styles that appeal to the greatest majority of fashion-conscious consumers Produced and sold in large quantities at moderate to low prices Mass Fashion accounts for the majority of sales in fashion businesses

Long-Run Fashion

Takes more seasons to complete their cycles than what might be considered average

Style in apparel

The characteristic or distinctive appearance of a garment (the combination of features that makes it unique and different from other garments) trademarks in a way (personal style)

Decline Stage

The decrease in consumer demand Customers may still wear, but no longer willing to buy at its regular price Production stops or slowly comes to a halt Leading fashion stores abandon the style, traditional stores take a moderate markdown and advertise a reduction Major markdowns on the style

Texture

The look or feel of the material, whether woven, knit, or nonwoven Texture can affect the appearance or a silhouette giving a bulky or slender look depending on the roughness or smoothness of the material texture influences the drape of a garment texture affects the color of fabric by causing the surface to either reflect or absorb light, rough textures absorb light causing the color to appear flat, smooth textures reflect light causing colors to appear brighter

Fashion Marketing

The marketing of apparel, accessories and other fashion- related products to the ultimate consumer

Culmination Stage

The period when a fashion is at the height of its popularity and use also called the PLATEAU In such demand that it can be mass-produced, mass-distributed and sold at prices within the range of most Can be long or brief, depending on how extended the peak of popularity is

Obsolescence Style

When strong distaste for a style forms and can o longer be sold at any price Style can only be found in thrift stores, garage sales, or flea markets However, the 21st century- obsolescence has given fire to new developments: recycled and sustainable fashion

Rise Stage

When the new original design is accepted by on increasing amount of customers- considered to be in the rise stage At this stage the buyer recorders in quantity for max stock coverage During this stage many retailers offer line-for0line copies or knockoffs At this stage promotion effort focuses on regular price lines, full assortments and product type ads to persuade customers of the store's superiority in meeting their fashion needs

A Fad

a fashion that suddenly sweeps into popularity, affects a limited part of the total population, and then quickly disappears. Often begins in a lower price range, declines more rapid aka miniature fashions

High Fashion

a new style accepted by a limited number of fashion leaders who want to be the first to adopt changes and innovation in fashion Usually introduced and sold in small quantities at high prices

Design

a particular or individual interpretation, version, or treatment of a specific style A style may be expressed in many designs, all different, yet related because they are the same style

A Classic

a style or design that satisfies a basic need and remains in general fashion acceptance for an extended period of time.

Fashion

a style that is accepted and used by the majority of groups at any one time, no matter how small that group not ever style is a fashion fashion=social psychology

Fashion Business

all the industries and services connected with fashion: design, manufacturing, distribution, marketing, retailing, advertising, communications, publishing and consulting. (any business concerned with fashion goods or services)

Importance of archives

an effort to extend the brand message or support of the brand heritage

1950S POPULAR ITEMS

classic shirtwaist dress, sack dress, car coats

Components of fashion

fashion design involves the combination of 4 basic elements or components 1. silhouette 2. detail 3. texture 4. color only through change in 1 or more of these does a new fashion evolve

1970S POPULAR ITEMS

hotpants, bellbottoms, pantsuit

Style Number

identifies a product for manufacturing, ordering, and selling purposes. Manufacturers and retailers assign this number to each individual design produced

Fashion Marketing

marketing process includes diverse activities that identify consumer needs so that markets can plan, price, distribute and promote products to sell easily

1940S POPULAR ITEMS

peplum jacket, new look of c.d., 3/4 length coats

Fashion

prevailing custom, usage or style

1980S POPULAR ITEMS

tailored suits (men and women)

Short-Run Fashion

take fewer seasons to complete their cycles than what might be considered average

Breaks in the cycle

the flow of a fashion cycle can be interrupted by outside influences- unpredictable weather or change in a group acceptance or more dramatic as war, economic depression, natural disaster Theory of manufacturers and merchants: broken cycle usually picks up where it has stopped once conditions return to normal or once the season that was cut short reopens when fashion apparel is in a cycle break, cosmetic interest picks up

1930S POPULAR ITEMS

the housedress, platform shoes

Details

the individual elements that give a silhouette its form or shape triangles, skirt or pant length and width, shoulder, waist and sleeve treatment silhouettes evolve through changes in detail. when the trend in a detail reaches an extreme, a reversal takes place

Fashion Merchandising

the planning required to have the right fashion-oriented merchandise at the right time, in the right place, in the right quantities, at the right prices, and with the right sales promotion for a specified target customer.

Fast Fashion

the retail strategy of keeping fashion fresh, as if it were a perishable good For any retailer with variety-seeking customers, some level of fast fashion is important Retailers using this strategy must manage their inventory accrdingly and consider shorter life cycles on their products

The Fashion Cycle

the rise, wide popularity, and decline in acceptance of a style Stages: introduction,rise,culmination,decline,obsolescence introduction- "indecent, shameless" rise- "outré" culmination- "dowdy/hideous" obsolesence- "ridiculous"

1920S POPULAR ITEMS

the step-in chemise dress, cloche hat, t-strap shoes

Fashion Industries

those engaged in manufacturing the materials and finished products used in the production of apparel and accessories for men, women, and children (manufacturing businesses)

knockoffs

versions of the original designer style duplicated by manufacturers mass-produced in less expensive factories generally lower prices due to large-scale production

1960S POPULAR ITEMS

wetlook, nehru jackets (men), miniskirts