Fundamentals Chapter 8: Facial Treatments

facial steps

* 15 minutes to cleanup/set up *setup time (client dresses)- 5 min 1. Client consultation, including review of contraindications (3-5 min, brief if express facial) - Discussion of the completed client intake form - Client signing of consent form; this form must be signed before each treatment 2. Client draping and esthetician hand washing (2 min) 3. Initial skin analysis and continue the client consultation; treatment plan creation 4. Towels/Steamer (2 min), *Pre-Cleanse massage (remove eye, lip and face makeup) 5. Cleansing massage (3-5 min) *can use toner to remove residue cleanser and makeup 6. In-depth skin analysis (5 min, brief if express) 7. Exfoliation + Rollerderm machine (8-10 min, 5 min if acne facial) 8. Softening with steam or warm towels (can also steam performing facial massage or during exfoliation) (5 min) 9. Extractions and/or deep pore cleansing (if applicable) (10 min, skip if express facial) 10. Massage (massage and mask steps can be reversed) (10 min, skip or brief if acne or express facial) 11. Mask (clay, hydrating, or any mask type that is appropriate to client's skin type and condition) *Facial device option: application of galvanic gel and performance of galvanic treatment (if applicable) (8-10 min, brief if express facial ) 12. Toner (1 min) x: High Frequency over gauze 13. Serums, eye treatments, and lip treatments 14. Moisturizer (1 min) 15. Daily sun protection products 16. Service completion, including post-consultation and home care (5 min) * 15 minutes to cleanup/set up

what are the benefits of facial treatments?

- Deep cleanses - Exfoliates - Increases circulation and detoxifies - Relaxes the senses, nerves, and muscles - Slows down symptoms of premature aging - Addresses conditions such as dryness, oiliness, and redness - Softens the appearance of wrinkles and aging lines - Helps lessen the appearance of blemishes and minor acne - Provides access to an esthetician's expertise for at-home skin care maintenance - Supports skin health and making good lifestyle choices.

treatments for dry skin

- For dry or mature skin, the treatment goals are similar: to hydrate and nourish the skin as well as remove accumulated dead, dry skin cells. Facial treatments and home maintenance can help minimize dryness and stimulate the production of sebum. Massage and exfoliation are beneficial to dry skin. Protecting the barrier function and keeping dry skin well lubricated is important. In general, when performing a facial for dry skin: - Serums and creams can balance and protect skin with the appropriate products and in the proper amounts. - Use a gentle enzyme peel, a gentle alpha hydroxy acid peel, or a light microdermabrasion treatment to exfoliate the skin. - For a mask, peptides, hyaluronic acid or emollient, and natural ingredients such as seaweed or a thermal mask can be used. Be sure to inquire about allergies before use of these products. - Massage and the galvanic machine can be used to assist in the application of a hydrating serum. - LED can be used. - A moisturizing cream with an oil base, antioxidants, and a full-spectrum sunscreen finish the treatment.

how to keep clients and you on schedule

- Have facial clients come in 15 minutes prior to their appointment so they can fill out their consultation form, put on a robe/spa wrap, and prepare for their treatment. The protocol will vary depending on your workplace, as you may first consult and meet the client before they proceed to get dressed for the service. - Call or send texts to clients the day before to confirm their appointments. - Ask the receptionist to check the client in and have them prepare for the service. Have a client intake form ready to use in the reception area so no time is wasted in the treatment room.

treatment goals of aging skin

- Hydrate and revitalize the skin. - Establish regularly scheduled skin evaluations that include skin analysis and review with the client in order to make the appropriate product and treatment adjustments. - An ongoing program of anti-aging treatments done in a series.

what are other external factors that increase the appearance of skin aging

- Improper or insufficient skin care - Medications, physiological disease, poor health, and psychological (emotional) problems - Extreme weight loss can result in loss of muscle tone and lined and sagging skin, which in turn gives the skin an "aged" appearance - Lifestyle choices such as smoking, and the misuse of alcoholic beverages.

treatment goal for dehydrated skin

- Restore internal skin hydration and retain inner moisture by preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). - Concentrate on hydrating and nourishing treatments that deliver the highest amounts of moisture to the skin. - Massage with the use of serums.

how to assist the client onto the facial bed

- Show the client how to get on the facial bed safely and where to position the head. - Assist the client in getting comfortable.

how can facial procedures vary

- Sometimes steam or massage is omitted. - Sometimes the massage is the last step after the mask, and sometimes two masks are used. - Massage is performed before extractions to avoid stimulation that would cause further inflammation. Using massage after extractions could pose possible secondary lesions and clients may experience breakouts. - Massage after the application of a mask if some of the massage creams and oils used in the industry could lock out further product penetration and benefits from active ingredients. - If the client needs hydrating, you may choose to omit the cleansing mask and the extractions.

changing instructions for the client before treatment

- The receptionist or esthetician will show the client where to change and store any belongings. - Clients can change into their robe and/or spa wrap and remove their shoes in a changing room or the treatment room. - Explain what clothing can be removed: shoes, restrictive pants, and bras. - Let the client know the neck and shoulders are usually bare for facials. - Dark fabric will collect lint from sheets, so it is best to remove clothing that will be under the sheets. Let clients decide what clothing they are comfortable removing. - Instruct the client on how to prepare for the treatment and how to put on the facial wrap.

how can you remove a mask

- Towels or 4″ × 4″ gauze or cotton pads - Cotton compresses or a "mummy" mask

mature skin treatments

- Use procedures similar to those designed for dry skin, adapting the ingredients to include ones that help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. - Extended massage with a moisturizing serum and cream. - Peptide, collagen, and hydrating masks are all beneficial in a facial treatment for mature skin. - A thermal mask will force-feed nutrients into the skin and help to soften the appearance of the skin, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. - Firming products can be effective in visibly tightening the appearance of the skin. - AHA treatments and products can help exfoliate the skin, creating a more luminescent complexion . - Advanced treatments such as light therapy, iontophoresis, and galvanic and microcurrent are effective tools for mature skin.

aging in your 50s

- age spots may appear - hormonal changes- decrease in estrogen, increase in androgen- may lead to breakouts - sebum production decreases, depriving the skin its natural moisture

what should be written in the client's chart

- all procedures and products used during the consultation or treatment - all products purchased for at-home use

when can warm towels be used on the skin

- before cleansing to prepare the client for your touch - warm and moisten the skin - make cleansing more effective and enjoyable

aging in your 30s

- cell turnover slows down - epidermal cells suffer more from environmental damage. wrinkles still may not be visible - dermis begins to lose some volume and bounce - collagen fibers aren't as efficiently meshed, elastin coils less tight

products needed for facial

- cleanser - astringent/toner - moisturizer - serum - mask (s)

treatment plan options

- cleansing: cream (for dry to more mature skin types), liquid (for oily skin), mousse (for combination skin), gel (for oily skin), steam hot or cold - exfoliation: AHA, BHA, enzymes, microdermabrasion, rotary brush - advanced protocols: galvanic, high frequency, microcurrent - massage: oil (for extremely dry skin), cream (for dry to normal skin), gel (for combination to oily skin), serum - masks: sheet, cream, mud/clay, alginate, mineral

what can an esthetician NOT do?

- diagnose or treat medical conditions such as rosacea or cystic acne

benefits of masks

- draw out impurities (apply the mask before using steam and doing extractions) - clear up blemishes - tighten and tone skin - hydrate, calm, or rejuvenate the skin (mask applied at the end of the facial)

aging in your 60s and beyond

- genetic disposition to certain skin type/problems (bags under the eyes, double chin, pigmentation) reveals itself - effects of intrinsic aging vs. environmental aging are now visible - less sebum production contributes to skin dryness - skin becomes dryer and more fragile

implements needed for facial

- headband/protective cap - bowl of warm water - 2 hand towels - 2 twin-size flat bed sheets - 2 disposable brushes - rubber mixing bowl - blanket - bolster - client charts - gloves - gown/wrap - hair pins - liquid soap (at sink area) - plastic bag for jewelry - pillow and pillowcase - robe - slippers - spatulas

why should steam NOT be overused

- it can cause overheating, redness and irritation - can exacerbate existing conditions

what does exfoliation do for the skin?

- makes the skin smoother - helps product penetration by unblocking the surface - promotes stimulation, which increases the cell turnover rate

what are the three exfoliation methods?

- mechanical exfoliants - chemical exfoliants - electrotherapy

benefits of facial massage

- promotes physiological relaxation, - stimulates blood circulation - helps muscle tone - cleanses skin of impurities - softens sebum - helps slough off dead skin cells - helps relieve muscle pain - provides a sense of well-being

what two benefits do facials offer?

- regular treatments result in noticeable improvements in the skin's texture and appearance - offers a relaxing experience

aging in your 40s

- sebum production reduced - the stratum corneum is thicker as more dead skin cells linger longer - darker pigmentation may appear due to environmental damage - expression lines deepen - dilated veins may appear

equipment needed for facial

- towel warmer - steamer - magnifying lamp - covered trash container

post-service procedure

1. Before the client leaves your treatment area, ask them how they feel and if they enjoyed the service. Explain the conditions of their skin and your ideas about how to improve them. Be sure to ask if they have any questions or anything else they'd like to discuss. Be receptive and listen. Never be defensive. Determine a plan for future visits. Give the client ideas to think over for the next visit. 2. Advise the client about proper home care and explain how the recommended professional products will help to improve any skin conditions that are present. This is the time to discuss your retail product recommendations. Explain that these products are important and how to use them. 3. Escort the client to the reception desk and write up a service ticket for the client that includes the service provided, recommended home care, and the next visit/service that needs to be scheduled. Place all recommended home care products on the counter for the client. Review the service ticket and the product recommendations with your client. 4. After the client has paid for their service and home care products, ask if you can schedule their next appointment. Set up the date, time, and type of service for this next appointment, write the information on your business card, and give the card to the client. 5. Thank the client for the opportunity to work with them. Express an interest in working with them in the future. Invite the client to contact you should they have any questions or concerns about the service provided. If the client seems apprehensive, offer to call them in a day or two in order to check in with them about any issues they may have. Genuinely wish them well, shake hands, and wish them a great day. 6. Be sure to record service information, observations, and product recommendations on the client record, and be sure you return it to the proper place for filing. 7. Continue with setting up for the next service or end-of-day checklist.

after the first treatment, do the following:

1. Block out about 15 minutes to explain proper home care for the client. Subsequent visits can be reduced to five-minute intervals. 2. Have the client sit in the facial chair, or invite them to move to a well-lit consultation area. A mirror should be provided, so that they can see the conditions you will be discussing 3. Explain, in simple terms, the client's skin conditions, informing them of how you propose to treat the conditions. Inform them about how often treatments should be administered in the salon or spa, and very specifically explain what they should be doing at home. 4. Set out the products you want the client to purchase and use. Explain each one, and tell them in which order to use them. Make sure to have written instructions for the client to take home. 5. It is important to have products available for the client that you believe in and that produce results. Retailing products for clients to use at home is important to the success of your treatments and to your business.

procedures before conducting facial

1. Greet the client in the reception area with a warm smile and in a professional manner. Introduce yourself if you've never met, make eye contact, and shake hands. Be sure your handshake is firm and sincere. 2. Discuss the completed client intake form with the client and confirm their service. Ask about any client concerns and set the expectations for today's service. 3. Ensure there are no contraindications for the treatment scheduled. Have your client sign a consent form before every service. 4. Escort the client to the dressing area or the treatment room to change. Inform the client where to place personal items. Ask the client to remove all jewelry and place in a sealable plastic bag to secure items. Due to liability issues do not handle the client's jewelry. Have the client remove contact lenses as well. 5. Provide them with a robe, spa wrap, and slippers. Explain which clothing may need to be removed and show them how to put on the spa wrap. Indicate where to go once they have changed. Then allow them to undress privately. Always knock before re-entering the room. 6. Depending on the service to be performed, instruct the client to lie either face down or face up on the treatment table or to take a seat in the treatment chair. 7. Place a bolster under the bottom sheet, below their knees, to relieve pressure on the lower back if they are facing up. (This alleviates pressure on the lower back.) If your client is facing down, place a rolled towel or small bolster under their ankles. 8. Bring the second sheet up and blanket across the décolleté. Then place a hand towel across the chest on top of the covers. 9. Secure a disposable headband, towel, or other head covering around the client's head to protect the hair, making sure all the hair is off the face. To drape the head with a towel, follow steps a, b, and c. a. During setup, you placed a hand towel on the headrest. Fold the towel into a triangle from one of the top corners to the opposite lower corner, and place it over the headrest with the fold facing down. b. When the client is in a reclined position, the back of the head should rest on the towel, so that the sides of the towel can be brought up to the center of the forehead to cover the hairline. c. Use a disposable headband to hold the towel in place. Use a spatula or the edge of your finger to make sure that all strands of hair are tucked under the towel, that the earlobes are not bent, and that the towel is not wrapped too tightly. 10. Wash your hands with soap and warm water. Always wash your hands and put on gloves before starting any treatment. 11. Proceed with the next steps in your facial treatment.

mini-procedure: the express facial

1. Provide a brief consultation. Have the client fill out a consultation form and discuss their skin condition and treatment goals. Ask about their current skin care regimen, and any medications or medical conditions that might be contraindicative to certain treatments such as glycolic peels. Find out about their skin care concerns. The client will sign a consent form before treatment begins. 2. Properly drape the client and wash your hands. 3. Analyze the skin with a magnifying lamp. 4. Perform a cleansing to remove makeup. Rinse well with 4″ × 4″ esthetics wipes moistened with warm water. 5. Perform an exfoliation or facial massage. Remove exfoliant and tone skin. 6. Apply a mask for approximately 10 minutes. 7. Remove the mask. 8. Apply a moisturizer and sunscreen for daytime. 9. Recommend a treatment for the client's next visit. 10. Recommend initial home care products and complete the home care chart.

Acne procedure 13 steps simplified

1. Wash hands and put on gloves 2. Perform deep cleansing 3. Analyze the skin 4. Steam and apply serum 5. Proceed with desincrustation 6. Perform shoulder massage and apply and remove mask. 7. Perform extractions 8. Apply astringent/toner 9. Apply a clay-based mask for deep cleansing. Remove with towels. 10. Apply a soothing mask. Remove with wet cotton. 11. Apply moisturizer 12. Perform galvanic or high-frequency treatment 13. Post-treatment consultation

steam should never be used for longer than ____ minutes

10

Many estheticians schedule at least ______- minutes extra for a client's first visit.

15

towels should not be left on the skin longer than ____

2 minutes

how long do most basic facials take?

60 minutes

biological changes in aging skin

Aging and sun-damaged skin is different from youthful, healthy skin. The differences are noticeable in loss of moisture, in fine lines and wrinkles, and in the thinning of the epidermis. As skin ages, it undergoes biological changes due to reduction of estrogen, including reduction in collagen and elastin With each passing year the average moisture content of the stratum corneum is slightly decreased, manifesting in fine lines. The epidermis thins out and the dermal papilla, which is the anchor of the epidermis, flattens out, resulting in a loose, tissue-like texture. The cell renewal rate slows down, making healing slower. Circulation becomes impaired, resulting in desquamation becoming uneven, which affects the evenness of skin tone. Likewise, the translucency of the stratum corneum becomes more opaque, resulting in a more yellowish-grey skin tone. A lifetime of repeated movements result in "expression lines" around the eyes and mouth. Other factors, such as pollution, hormones, photoaging from UV light, poor diet, stress, and other factors contribute to the signs of aging.

ingredients for mature skin

Aging or sun-damaged skin needs antioxidants topically and orally. Antioxidants such as vitamins A, , C, and E; minerals; green tea; and grapeseed extract all help protect the body from free radicals. Other beneficial care for aging skin includes protecting the barrier function of the skin and wearing sunscreen. Additionally, alpha hydroxy acids can help combat the signs of aging and sun damage. Hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, and glycerin all bind water to the skin and retain the moisture that is essential to maturing skin. Peptides, lipids, polyglucans, coenzyme Q10, and liposomes are all beneficial performance ingredients.

how pollution contributes to the signs of aging

Air pollution comprises tiny particles called particulate matter that contain nitrogen dioxide and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH). When they come in contact with the skin, they activate multiple pathways of inflammation. Some pathways ignite the melanocytes, which create far too much pigment, which manifests in hyperpigmentation. Some excite enzymes that reabsorb damaged collagen. With too much chronic inflammation, the enzymes remove more collagen than your skin can create. This produces skin laxity, causing a cascade that results in fine lines and wrinkles.

skin analysis checklist

Analyze the skin using a magnifying lamp. Place eye pads on the eyes. Try not to cover what you need to look at around the eyes. Look for any obvious skin conditions and note the skin type. Touch the skin, noting its elasticity, softness, texture, and skin condition. Continue the consultation, asking questions while analyzing. Analyze the pore size, hydration level, pigmentation, muscle tone, broken capillaries, facial wrinkles, signs of skin disorders, and so on. Choose the products. Note the information on the client's chart (this can be done before, during, or after the facial).

mature or aging skin

Anti-aging treatments are an important part of our business. We age from the moment we are born. The speed at which age leaves its signs on our face is influenced not only through (chronological) time, but by genetic encoding and environmental effects. One part is genetic, the rest is environmental damage, and the main part of this is caused by UV radiation.

tips for men's treatments

Avoid using perfumed and fragrant products in the facial room. Men already may be feeling a bit apprehensive about having a facial, so keep the service as clean and simple as possible. Cater to specific needs by incorporating grooming services such as trimming or waxing eyebrows, nostril hair, and ear hair. Men do not want to walk out of a spa with red, blotchy skin caused by an aggressive extraction session. Additional services to calm skin, apply products, and even concealing makeup should be considered. When deciding on a retail line for males, keep in mind the kinds of packaging that many men prefer. It should not be pink or red, but, rather, sleek and simple. Choose products that can be sprayed on quickly, and swap jars for bottles with pumps so they can be easily packed in gym bags and for trips. Retail products should be merchandised to emphasize qualities such as nongreasy, rinses off easily, and protects the skin. Perfume-free, color-free, calming, and stress-reducing are good buzzwords to use when describing offerings that will appeal to men.

CIDESCO diploma

CIDESCO is the world's most prestigious qualification for Aesthetics and Beauty Therapy, and has set international standards since 1957. CIDESCO Section USA provides comprehensive training at national trade shows throughout the year. For information on CIDESCO classes and programs, go to http://cidesco.com/.

treatment goal of hyperpigmentation

Chemical exfoliation and brightening agents can be effective in reducing some hyperpigmented areas.

what are the most important elements of the express facial and why?

Cleansing and masking because they produce the most visible results in 30 minutes

tip: model releases

Consider taking a photo of your client each time they come in for a visit. Have a model release form ready to sign for clients that will appear in marketing features and on social media. This way you will be able to provide clients with a history of their treatments with you and get their approval for showing their results online.

dehydrated skin

Dehydration of the surface is one of the most common skin problems. The major cause of dehydration is evaporation and loss of sebum from the surface of the skin due to the use of harsh, drying soaps and alkalis as well as through drier winter months, heat, and changes in climate. A client's skin may have enough oil, but still feel dry and flaky due to lack of water in the skin.

professional treatments for men

Depending on the client's skin conditions, you can offer various treatments. Most men love steam and the brush machine. Even if a client's skin is slightly sensitive, he will prefer the assertiveness of a brush and foamy cleanser. A firmer touch and deeper massage are also needed on male skin. There are some other important aspects of men's facials. First, sponges and towels are more appropriate for a man's face. Cotton pads and gauze will grab the beard hair, leaving particles clinging to the face. Shaving before a facial actually makes the skin more sensitive. On freshly shaven skin, exfoliating products or techniques, including strong sensitizing agents such as alpha hydroxy acids and microdermabrasion, may be contraindicated. Professional movements during a man's facial should flow with the hair growth. For example, most massage movements in the beard area should move downward, not upward. This goes against the typical esthetic procedure of lifting movements up the neck and face. Overall, the beard area tends to be relatively sensitive due to shaving lotions that contain perfume, alcohol, or other similar substances. Shaving itself is also quite abrasive to the skin, so men need more calming and healing products.

products and equipment for acne care

Desincrustation, steam, and extractions are all part of an oily and problem skin facial. AHA and BHA exfoliation treatments are also effective. Each client is treated individually according to their needs. The blue light of LED therapy is beneficial for the treatment of acne. Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid)—These products are found naturally in willow bark extract and are natural keratolytic agents, meaning they are able to dissolve keratin, improving the look and the feel of the skin. This ingredient differs from alpha hydroxy acid in that it is more soluble in oil than water. This means that once the water from the product you are applying evaporates, salicylic acid will seek out oil, in this case sebum, and help to cleanse it further from the skin. (Check for aspirin allergies before using salicylic acid.) Sulfur masks—These are effective products that exfoliate skin and dry blemishes (check for sulfur allergies). AHA (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids)—These products are used in different percentages to help dissolve dead skin cells to keep the skin surface exfoliated. Exfoliation also softens acne impactions. Vitamin A or retinol—Both retinol and retinyl palmitate are forms of vitamin A. This topical vitamin benefits the skin by helping to reduce flaking and restore the appearance of skin suppleness. In a spa or salon, formulations should never exceed 30 percent retinol and should never be lower than 3.5 percent. Benzoyl peroxide—This ingredient releases oxygen that kills bacteria as well as helps exfoliate skin. Kojic acid—This is an ingredient derived from mushrooms that helps to brighten the appearance of the skin. Spot blemish treatments—These products include ingredients such as beta hydroxyl acid, tea tree oil, and benzoyl peroxide that are applied just on blemishes after cleansing. Increased vitamin C—This oral vitamin has antioxidant value and healing effects.

how to drape and adjust client for comfort

Drape the client's hair and adjusting the pillow, bolster, and linens

dry skin

Dry skin is usually the result of underactive sebaceous glands that produce sebum, which softens the skin, creating a natural moisturizing protective barrier. The skin appears coarse, tight, dull in color, and often with visible lines and wrinkles. It may also become dry from overexposure to sun and wind, harsh soaps, poor diet, lack of fluid intake, medication, and environmental factors and aging. Dry skin can be caused by genetic disposition or as a result of skin aging. As a person advances in years, the body's renewal process slows down, and cells are not replaced as quickly as before.

treatment goals for acne skin

Eliminate blackheads from the skin that lead to more breakouts. Thorough cleansers and deep-cleansing masks that include AHA and BHA are recommended, and the facial treatment should include extractions. Extractions must be done gently and without pain to the client. Treatment care and client education regarding acne can be ongoing, and the results are rewarding for clients and the esthetician.

acne care tips

Eliminate comedogenic products. Oil-free does not mean "noncomedogenic." Examine the ingredients on product labels to determine if they are appropriate for problem skin. Control oil through proper product usage. Do not irritate the skin with harsh products. Exfoliate the skin. Keep the skin clean and exfoliated to keep sebum and cells from building up. Beta or alpha hydroxy acids are beneficial. Do not overuse these products. Once a day is sufficient. Protect against environmental aggressors, dirt, grease, UV light, humidity, and pollution. Practice stress reduction and good nutrition. Have regular facials once a month or as needed.

performing the basic facial

Equipment: towel warmer, steamer, magnifying lamp, sharps container, EPA-registered disinfectant, hand sanitizer/hand soap, covered trash container, bowls (if sink is not available), spatulas, fan and mask brush (nonporous and must be able to be disinfected, e.g. non wooden) Implements: client charts, distilled water for steamer, hand towels, clean linens and blanker, headband/head wrap/protective cap, client wrap, bolster Single-Use Items: esthetics wipes (4" x 4" and 2" x 2" gauze or cotton) or disposable sponges, cotton rounds or squares, cotton swabs, paper towels, gloves, tissues (unscented) distilled water for steamer Products: eye makeup remover, facial cleanser, optional: exfoliant, masks, massage lotion, toner, moisturizer, sunscreen, optional: serums, eye cream, lip balm, extraction supplies Caution: Wearing gloves throughout the entire facial service is required by OSHA due to the possibility of bloodborne pathogen exposure. Never remove products from containers with your fingers. Always use a spatula. Do not touch fingertips to lids or openings of containers. Clean and disinfect product containers before and after each service. Preparation: Prepare the treatment room, client, preheat steamer and check that the water level is at the appropriate fill line 1. Wash your hands and apply gloves. 2. Apply warm towels (optional step). After checking the temperature, apply one towel to the décolleté and one to the face. Hold the ends of the towels with both hands on either side of the face. Lay the center of the towel on the chin and drape each side across the face with the towel edges draped over to the opposite corner across the forehead. To remove, lift each end and remove. For product removal: Use the towels over the hands as mitts. Be guided by your instructor on this method. 3. Remove eye makeup and lipstick. Remember to ask about contact lenses before putting product on the eyes. If the client is wearing contacts, do not remove the eye makeup. 4. Perform facial cleansing Remove about one-half to one teaspoon of cleanser from the container (with a clean spatula if it is not a squirt-top or pump-type lid). Place it on the fingertips or in the palm and then apply a small amount to your gloved fingertips. This conserves the amount of product you use. 5. Starting at the neck or décolleté and with a sweeping movement, use both hands to spread the cleanser upward and outward on the chin, jaws, cheeks, and temples. 6. Spread the cleanser down the nose and along its sides and bridge. Continue to the upper lip area. Cleanse the upper lip area under the nose with sideways strokes from the center area moving outward. 7. Make small, circular movements with the fingertips around the nostrils and sides of the nose. Continue with upward-sweeping movements between the brows and across the forehead to the temples. 8. Apply more cleanser to the neck and chest with long, outward strokes. Cleanse the area in small, circular motions from the center of the chest and neck toward the outside, moving upward. Try to use both hands at the same time on each side when applying or removing product. 9. Visually divide the face into left and right halves from the center. Continue moving upward with circular motions on the face from the chin and cheeks, and up toward the forehead using both hands, one on each side. 10. Starting at the center of the forehead, continue with the circular pattern out to the temples. Move the fingertips lightly in a circle around the eyes to the temples and then back to the center of the forehead. Lift your hands slowly off of the face when you finish cleansing. 11. Remove the cleanser. Start at the neck or forehead and follow the contours of the face. Move up or down the face in a consistent pattern, depending on where you start, according to the instructor's procedures. Remove all the cleanser from one area of the face before proceeding to the next. (Under the nostrils, use downward strokes when applying or removing products to avoid pushing product up the nose. This is uncomfortable and will make the client tense.) 12. Make sure there is no residue left on the skin. Blot your hands on a clean towel, and touch the face with dry fingertips to check. 13. Analyze the skin. Cover the client's eyes with eye pads. Try not to cover what you need to look at around the eyes. 14. Position the magnifying light where you want it before starting the facial, so that you can easily maneuver it over the face. Turn on the lamp away from client before lining it up over the face. 15. Note the skin type and condition, sensitivity, hydration, elasticity, and feel the texture of the skin. Remember to look, touch, ask and listen. Based on the skin analysis, the remainder of the products will be selected as well as the treatment objectives. 16. Cleanse the face again (optional). Some treatment protocols do not include this second cleansing. Be guided by your instructor. 17. Exfoliation (optional). If exfoliation is part of the service, it could be done at this time while steaming. Tone after removing exfoliant to rebalance pH of the skin. 18. Massage the face. Select a water-soluble massage cream or product appropriate to the client's skin type. 19. Use the same procedure as you did for product application to apply the massage cream to the face, neck, shoulders, and chest. Apply the warmed product in long, slow strokes with fingers or a soft fan brush, moving in a set pattern. 20. Perform the massage as directed. 21. Remove the massage medium. Use warm towels or 4″ × 4″ esthetics wipes and follow the same procedure as for removing other products or cleanser. 22. Steam the face using the steamer. Skip to step 24 if using towels. The steamer should be preheated at the start of the facial. Wait for it to start steaming, and then turn on the second ozone button if applicable while steaming. (Remember that steam should be avoided on sensitive skin types.) 23. Check to make sure the steamer is not too close to the client (it should be approximately 18 inches away) and that it is steaming the face evenly. If you hold your hands close to the sides of the client's face, you can feel if the steam is reaching both sides of the face. Steam for approximately 5 to 10 minutes. Turn off the steamer immediately after use. Caution: Keep the steamer facing away from the client until it is steaming to avoid potential spitting of water, which may happen if the machine is overfilled or not maintained properly. 24. Steam the face using towels. If using towels in place of steam, remember to test them for the correct temperature. Ask the client if they are comfortable with the temperature. Towels are left on for approximately 2 minutes or until they begin to cool. Steam or warm towels should be used carefully on couperose skin. 25. Perform extractions (if needed). Extractions are done immediately after the steam, while the skin is still warm. Refer to the extractions section of this chapter to incorporate this step into your basic facial procedure if it is applicable to your facility. 26. Apply a mask. Choose a mask formulated for the client's skin condition. Remove the mask from its container, and place it in the palm or a small mixing bowl. (Use a clean spatula or brush, if necessary, to prevent cross-contamination.) Warming the mask is recommended for better results as well as the client's comfort. 27. Apply the mask with a brush or spatula, usually starting at the neck. Use long, slow strokes from the center of the face, moving outward to the sides. 28. Proceed to the jawline and apply the mask on the face from the center outward. Avoid the eye area unless the mask is appropriate for that area. 29. Allow the mask to remain on the face for approximately 7 to 10 minutes. 30. Remove the mask. Use warm moist towels or 4″ × 4″ esthetics wipes for removal. Cream-based masks can be wiped off, while clay masks can be removed with a mummy-style mask. Some masks may peel off, such as alginate or sheet masks. 31. Apply the toner. Apply the toner product appropriate for the client's skin type. 32. Apply serums, as well as eye and lip treatments. Serums as well as eye and lip creams are optional for application before the final moisturizer. 33. Apply a moisturizer (and an additional sunscreen as appropriate). 34. Postconsultation and home care. End the facial by removing your gloves, and quietly letting the client know you are finished. Give the client instructions for getting dressed. Have the client come out to the reception area when they are ready to discuss the home care products and regimen. Post-Service: Clean-Up and Preparation for the Next Client, including advising the client, promoting products, scheduling a next appointment, thanking the client, and cleaning and setting up the treatment room.

what should estheticians not do when it comes to diet recommendations

Estheticians are not nutritionists and should not encourage clients to remove foods from their diet without the consent of the client's physician.

acne treatment

Excessive oily and problem skin is one of the leading reasons clients seek out professional help and is one of the most important factors in an esthetician's practice. While estheticians do not diagnose acne, they must be aware of this skin condition and know how to properly provide a facial. Performing consistent effective facial treatments will not only benefit the client's overall appearance but will also help bolster their self-esteem. Both of these results are perhaps the most important achievements to which an esthetician can aspire. Caution: Physicians prescribe medications that work to suppress acne flare-ups; however, medications can have adverse side effects and, even with medication, acne can return. Working with problem skin is a continuous process, and clients need to follow regular skin care programs. The esthetician can outline an acne treatment plan to balance the skin. Treatments are focused on deep cleansing and extractions. Clients need to understand that they did not get their acne overnight, and it will not go away overnight. Likewise, clients need to be instructed to never pick at their acne pimples. Estheticians should also look for indications of acne excoriee, a condition stemming from habitual, nervous picking of the acne pimples that leads to permanent scarring. In order to partner with the client on proper care of their skin condition, instruct them on the histology of acne within the skin. Provide simple illustrations on how acne pustules form.

True/False: dry skin commonly appears to be thick

FALSE: Dehydrated skin will appear thin and may appear fine in texture but is actually coarse to the touch.

True/False: clients with dry skin will benefit from freeze-dried collagen masks

FALSE: Freeze-dried collagen masks are also excellent for redness or sensitive skin.

how hormones contributes to the signs of aging

Hormones are chemicals secreted by cells or glands, and they act as messengers that are sent out from one part of the body to signal cells in other parts of the body. Hormones regulate the body's internal environment. As we age the body produces lower levels of hormones, and the ability of hormones to communicate messages decreases. Effects of imbalanced hormones in skin aging include excess blood glucose, which can damage or destroy collagen, and excessive free radicals, which can cause oxidative damage to the cells as well as hyperpigmentation resulting from changes in estrogen and progesterone. And women are not the only ones who can have signs of skin aging caused by hormonal changes. In men, levels of hormones such as testosterone decrease slowly over time, so that by their late forties to early fifties, men can experience hyperpigmentation, thinning skin, uneven skin texture, and reduced skin firmness. Men may notice that the area of skin around the jawline begins to sag, as well as the area around the mouth, which is the result of a loss of elasticity and underlying fat. They may also experience a noticeable increase in puffiness around the cheeks and eyes.

treatments for hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is a condition that affects many people. Sun exposure, medication, and chemical reactions cause dark pigmentation areas on the skin that clients often want to diminish. Advise clients that the best preventative measures are to stay out of the sun and wear protective clothing and sun protection daily. Follow the facial procedure and incorporate the following guidelines: Ingredients that can help brighten the appearance of the skin include kojic acid, alpha arbutin, glycolic acid, mulberry, licorice root, azaleic acid, bearberry, and citrus such as lemon work to help reduce the appearance of dark spots. These ingredients can be used in conjunction with exfoliating treatments using AHA, BHA, and other types of exfoliators. Harsh skin-bleaching agents such as hydroquinone (which is banned in several countries) may damage the skin and are controversial. Remember that overexfoliating can cause damage and make hyperpigmentation worse—or conversely, cause hypopigmentation. Hypopigmentation results from reducing the appearance of melanin to the extent that lighter skin patches are now evident.

treatment goals of sensitive skin

Identify and avoid those stimuli that provoke a sensitive, sensitized, or rosacea response. Provide skin with topical application of ingredients that help calm and soothe the appearance of the skin, such as seaweed, silver, quercetin, rutin, olive oil, olive leaf extracts, calamine, calcium carbonate, green tea, and allantoin. Help maintain the skin's protective moisture barrier by using fatty acids, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacimamide, linoleic acid, squalene, phospholipids, lecithin, evening primrose oil, tocopherol (vitamin E), and ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C), and low percentages of an AHA such as lactic acid. Encourage the client to consult a dermatologist when experiencing severe sensitive skin or rosacea flare-ups. For home care, advise these clients to avoid vasodilators that dilate capillaries: heat, the sun, spicy foods, and stimulating products.

applying and removing cotton compress

Implements and Products: 4" x 4" cotton squares, basin for clean water, product, tissues, toner Note: This procedure is outdated but some licensing boards may still test on it. Proper removal of facial masks is critical. By creating a cotton compress, also referred to as a cotton mummy mask, you are continuing the calming and soothing benefits of the facial. The use of disposable cotton will maintain a clean environment. Procedure: 1. After the mask or product has set for the appropriate time, take one cotton 4″ × 4″ square, open to 4″ × 8″, and saturate with water. 2. After squeezing out excess water, place the cotton lengthwise, first covering the neck. 3. Saturate a second piece of cotton with water and make a small opening for the mouth. Place across the chin and mouth from one side of the mandible to the other just below the nose. 4. When placing the third piece of cotton over the bridge of the nose and across the eyes, be sure to leave the nostrils exposed and airways open. 5. Place the fourth piece of wet cotton across the forehead, covering from temple to temple and cheek to cheek from one zygomatic bone to the other. Keep the cotton moist to help "loosen" mask for flawless removal, but not soaking wet to avoid dripping down the client's neck. 6. To remove the mummy mask, starting at the forehead, use a flat hand to wipe the product from one side of the face to the other. If you are right-handed, remove from left to right; if left-handed, right to left. 7. Fold the cotton under as you are removing the mask, as this will pick up more of the product and assist in quicker and cleaner removal. 8. Repeat the same movement on the cheek and mandible area. Finish removing from your client's cheek and nose area. 9. Remove the product and cotton from the neck. Use more cotton to remove any remaining residue. 10. Once residue is removed, refresh skin with hydrating mist or the appropriate toner/astringent, and then blot with tissue.

procedure: performing extractions

Implements and products: esthetics wipes (4" x 4" or 2" x 2" gauze or cotton), gloves, astringent, other appropriate facial supplies, products and equipment, access to water or basin of water, cotton swabs, lancet, sharps container Extractions are performed during a treatment only after the skin has been cleansed and prepared for comedone removal. This preparation can include exfoliation, desincrustation, and steaming. These methods help loosen the kertinaceous plugs within the follicle to help make the extractions easier. Never perform extractions for more than 10 minutes. It will make the client too uncomfortable and could be too aggressive to the skin. Preparing premade pads: If you are using 4″ × 4″ or 2″ × 2″ premade pads, apply astringent to pads (without oversaturating them) and wrap around your fingers. Always wear gloves during extractions and during the entire facial treatment. Preparing for extractions: *: Extractions must be performed in such a way as to not cause further damage to the skin or make the acne worse. 1. Wash hands and put on a new pair of gloves. Gloves are critical here because this is an invasive procedure. 2. Place eye pads over the client's eyes. 3. Position the magnifying lamp over the client's face. Always look through a magnifying lamp when performing extractions. This will protect you from any debris that come from the clogged pore. Again, advanced acne such as cysts and nodules should be treated only by a dermatologist. 4. Proceed with manual comedone removal, using the cotton swab technique, comedone extractor, or a lancet as permitted by your state board regulations. Manually Removing comedones * Prepare the client's skin. Extractions are performed during a treatment after the skin is warmed and prepared/softened with product. 1. Wrap your fingers with cotton or gauze slightly moistened with a few drops of astringent at the tips. 2. For proper removal of comedones, use the side of your fingertips to exert firm pressure on the skin surrounding the blackhead or comedone, applying slight pressure from side to side, alternating angles to gently lift the comedone from the follicle opening. Comedone extractors can also be used for this (be guided by your instructor). Do not squeeze with your nail, only the side of your finger. 3. Start at the chin. On a flat area, press down, under, in, and up. Work around the plug, pressing down, in, and up. Bring fingers in toward each other around the follicle without pinching. Place the comedone on a tissue and proceed to other areas. 4. Nose. Slide fingers down each side of the nose, holding the nostril tissue firmly, but do not press down too firmly on the nose. The fingers on top do the sliding, while the other one holds close to the bottom of the follicle. Do not cut off the air flow to the nostrils. 5. Cheeks. Slide fingers together down the cheek, holding each section of the skin as you go. The lower hand holds and the other hand slides toward the lower hand. 6. Forehead; upper cheekbones. Extract as on the chin: press down, in, and up. 7. Dispose of gloves and supplies properly. Change gloves to continue the facial treatment. Using the cotton swab technique *: An alternative to comedone removal is with cotton swabs. 1. Hold the cotton swabs with your index finger and thumb and gently press down on both sides of the follicle. 2. If the contents do not expel right away, move the swabs from side to side and the debris will gently lift up. Do not apply too much pressure, as it can bruise the client's skin. In both cases, if the contents are still not expelling, simply leave the comedone for the next treatment, and proceed to the next area of concern. Comedone extractor 1. To use the comedone extractor, place the loop over the lesion so that the lesion is inside the loop. 2. Press gently next to the lesion to push it up and out. Be aware that the pressure exerted can traumatize tissues. The follicle walls can rupture, spilling sebum and bacteria into the dermis. This debris can cause infection and irritation that leads to the start of even more blemishes. Extracting with lancets * Please check with your regulatory agency to see if you are permitted to use lancets in your state. * When a lesion is sealed over, as in old blackheads and closed comedones, a small-gauge needle or lancet is used for extraction. 1. Wrap the index fingers with cotton or use sterile cotton swabs. 2. Hold the lancet parallel to the surface of the skin or at a 35 degree angle and gently pierce the skin horizontally to release sebum. If you prick into the skin in a downward motion, you can cause scarring. 3. After piercing the skin horizontally, gently press down on both sides of the milia and remove it. 4. Dispose of the lancet in the biohazard containers also known as sharps boxes. Do not reuse the lancet.

applying a sheet mask

Implements and products: gloves, serums appropriate for client's skin (optional), sheet mask, other appropriate facial supplies, products and equipment Procedure: * When you have reached the masking step in the facial treatment, you will perform the following steps: 1. Apply the serum of your choice. (This is optional, as you may choose to just apply the sheet mask directly to the face.) 2. With a new pair of gloves, open the sheet mask packet and place the open packet on your station. 3. Beginning at the chin, remove the backing on the sheet mask. Apply the sheet mask in a uniform format, smoothing the mask onto the face such that the mask is optionally positioned to ensure all areas of the face are benefiting from the sheet mask. 4. Process the mask according to the manufacturer's recommended processing time. 5. Remove the mask and proceed with the next steps in your facial treatment.

how to remove products

Implements: gloves, 4" x 4" esthetic wipes, disposable sponges or warmed towels from a hot towel cabinet Removing Products: To remove products, rinse each area at least three to six times. Some estheticians prefer to use wet esthetics wipes when removing product. Others prefer to use towels. Both methods are correct and equally professional, and many estheticians use both methods. Facial movements are generally done in an upward and outward direction from the center to the edges of the face. Procedures: 1. Starting at the décolleté, cleanse sideways and up to the neck. When removing the cleanser, mask, or exfoliant, you should make three passes or however many are necessary until no residual makeup shows. 2. Cleanse the neck using upward strokes. To keep the pad from slipping from the hand, pinch the edge of the pad between the thumb and upper part of the forefinger. It is important that most of the surface of the pad remain in contact with the skin. Do not exert pressure on the Adam's apple in the center of the neck. 3. Starting directly under the chin, slide along the jawline, stopping directly under the ear. Repeat the movement on the other side of the face. Alternate back and forth three times on each side of the face, or do the movement concurrently by using both hands at the same time. 4. Starting at the jawline, use upward movements to cleanse the cheeks. 5. Continue the upward movement and cross over the chin to the other cheek if you are using only one hand. 6. Continue the cleansing movement with approximately six strokes on each cheek. 7. Under the eyes, use inward motions to avoid tugging at the eye area. 8. Cleanse the area directly underneath the nose by using downward and sideways strokes. Start at the center and work outward toward the corners of the mouth. Rinse at least three times on each side of the face. 9. Starting on the bridge of the nose, cleanse the sides of the nose and the area directly next to it. Use light, outward movements. 10. Starting at the center of the forehead, move outward to the temples. Apply a slight pressure on the pressure points of the temples. Repeat the movement three times on each side of the forehead. 11. Check the face to make sure there is no residue left on the skin. Feather over the areas of the face with the fingertips to check that it is well rinsed. Discard all used supplies in the trash can. 12. Cover the client's eyes with eye pads and prepare to perform the skin analysis.

how to apply cleansers, massage creams, treatment creams, serums, and protective products.

Implements: hand sanitizer/had soap, covered waste container, spatula, facial towels, headband and head wrap, clean linens, bolster Single-Use Items: gloves, plastic resealable bag for personal items Products: eye makeup remover or cleanser, facial cleanser Procedures: * If possible, use both hands at the same time for a more even and efficient technique. Use either circular motions or straight, even strokes for cleansing. 1. Apply warm towels (optional). Check the temperature and apply one towel to the décolleté and one to the face. Leave on for at least 1 minute and then remove. 2. Choose a cleanser appropriate to the client's skin type. Use a spatula to remove the product from the container unless using a squirt or pump bottle. Apply approximately one teaspoon of the product to the fingers or palms of the hand and spread evenly between your gloved hands and fingertips. 3. Use circular motions to distribute the product onto the fingertips. You are now ready to apply the product to the client's décolleté, neck, and face. Cleanse each area using six passes. If starting on the décolleté, start in the center and work out to the sides moving up to the neck. Be guided by your instructor. 4. Start applying a small amount of the product by placing both hands, palms down, on the neck. Slide hands back toward the ears until the pads of the fingers rest at a point directly beneath the earlobes. While applying the product, it is suggested that hands are not lifted from the client's face until you are finished. 5. Reverse the hands, with the backs of the fingers now resting on the skin, and slide the fingers along the jawline to the chin. 6. Reverse the hands again, and slide the fingers back over the cheeks and center of the face until the pads of the fingers come to rest directly in front of the ears. 7. Reverse the hands again, and slide the fingers forward over the cheekbones to the nose. Cleanse the upper lip area under the nose with sideways strokes from the center area moving outward. Then slide up to the sides of the nose. 8. With the pads of the middle fingers, make small, circular motions on the top of the nose and on each side of the nose. Avoid pushing the product into the nose. 9. Slide the fingers up to the forehead and outward toward the temples, pausing with a slight pressure on the temples. Slide fingers across the forehead using circles or long strokes from side to side. Slowly lift your hands off the client's face. 10. Removing Products if the product used needs to be removed, for example, a cleanser or massage cream.

how to remove eye makeup and lipstick

Implements: liquid hand soap and hand sanitizer, covered waste container, facial towels, headband and head-wrap, clean linens, bolster, plastic sealable bag for personal items Single- Use Items: gloves, cotton swabs, spatula, tissues (unscented), esthetics wipes (4" x 4" or 2" x 2" cotton or gauze pads) or disposable sponges Products: eye makeup remover or cleanser, facial cleanser Procedures: * Note: If the client is wearing contacts, do not remove the eye makeup. Be especially gentle when cleansing the eyes because the skin around the eyes is very sensitive and can become irritated. Do not get cleanser into the eyes. 1. Saturate two cotton rounds with a mild cleanser (usually a pH of 7.0-7.2 is recommended) or makeup remover. You also have the choice of using gloved hands to apply the cleanser. 2. Ask the client to close their eyes. Start with the client's left eye. With one hand, gently raise and hold the client's eyebrow. With the cotton pad in your other hand, gently wipe across the top of the eyelid from the nose outward. Use downward movements with the cleansing pad to cleanse the eyelid and lashes. Gently rinse with cotton or gauze pads. 3. While cleansing the eyes, rotate the pad to provide a clean, unused surface. Repeat step 2 as necessary to remove eye makeup. 4. Wipe under the eyes, sweeping in toward the nose. Remove any makeup underneath the eyes and along the lash line with a cotton swab or pad. Place the edge of the pad under the lower lashes at the outside corner of the eye, and slide the pad toward the inner corner of the eye. The mascara will gradually work loose and can be wiped clean. Always be gentle around the eyes; never rub or stretch the skin, as it is very delicate and thin. 5. Make a complete circular pattern around the eye. Use the pad or a cotton swab to wipe inward under the eye toward the nose and then outward over the top of the eyelid. 6. Rinse the eye area with a pad or cotton rounds soaked (not dripping) in warm water to remove the eye makeup remover. Make sure the remover is rinsed off thoroughly. 7. To remove the majority of the lipstick, first support the lip and wipe away the lipstick using a dry tissue, then discard the tissue. 8. Then, apply cleanser to a gauze or cotton pad. With your left hand, hold taut the left side of the client's mouth. Wipe from the corner to the center to prevent the lipstick from being wiped out onto the skin surrounding the mouth. 9. Repeat the procedure on the other side until the lips are clean. Proceed with the next step of the basic facial.

extraction training

In treating acne or blemished skin, the most important step for the esthetician is the effective cleansing and removal of blemishes. When the follicles are properly cleansed, the client's skin will begin to show marked improvement. It is important to explain to the client that you cannot always remove all blemishes during one treatment. Did You Know? All areas of the forehead, the top of the nose, the chin, and the jawline have follicular walls perpendicular to the surface of the skin. The follicles are positioned this way on all flat surfaces. All other areas of the skin, such as the sides of the nose and cheeks, have slanted follicular shafts. Training and caution are needed before performing extractions. The skin must be exfoliated and warmed before extractions are performed. It is also imperative that the esthetician wear gloves during extractions and then change the gloves before performing the rest of the facial to prevent the spread of infection. Protective eyewear is also recommended in some instances. Proper extraction procedures are necessary to safely extract oil and debris from the follicles. Do not practice extractions without prior instruction or training. Gloves must be worn at all times.

the art of recommendation

Know your client. Do they have lots of time to spend on pampering themselves? Or are they strapped for time? Start by suggesting two basic products such as a cleanser and moisturizer, depending on their main concerns. You can always add a new product such as an exfoliator or eye cream to their regimen on their next visit. Focus on providing a product that will deliver results based on their concerns. If you do not coerce them into taking home more products than they want, your client will be more likely to trust your expertise and return for another treatment. They will have used what you did recommend and see the results.

traits of men's skin

Men often have larger pores and more active sebaceous glands. Their skin tends to be characterized by excess oil and numerous blackheads. At the same time, male skin often can become dehydrated from harsh soaps and shampoos, as well as from frequent hot showers. Ironically, their skin can both be excessively oily and have surface dryness. Men need products and treatments that are hydrating but also offer deep pore cleansing and pore refining. Men also are concerned with aging. They often have hyperpigmentation from years of outdoor activities without wearing sunscreen. They may have crow's feet and dark under-eye circles from long days spent squinting at computer screens. The baby boomer male is being confronted with middle age. In addition, male millennials, now moving into the 25-plus age group, are coming into the workplace with a more evolved approach toward grooming, where it's okay to care about the condition of the skin.

treatment for milia (closed comedones)

Milia are small epidermal cysts and are often referred to as tiny whiteheads. Milia usually occur around the eyes, upper surface of the cheeks, and forehead. Your clients may have tried to get them cleaned out themselves, but with no luck. This is because milia are keratinized sebum trapped under the skin surface, and although it looks like it can be extracted easily, you may need the help of a lancet to get the milia out. A lancet is a small, sharp, pointed needle used to make a tiny opening in the epidermis to expose the milia Always use a new sterile sealed lancet. Be sure the seal has not been broken. Again, a lancet is permissible only with permission by the state board. Improper lancet use may scar the skin, or may cause infection.

oily skin characteristics

Oily to combination skin is caused by overactive sebaceous glands and is thicker in texture. The skin has enlarged pores that may be filled with sebum buildup from the environment as well as from the use of comedogenic makeup and other products. Comedones and whiteheads are present. The skin is sallow in appearance and is more prone to blemishes but is less prone to wrinkles and fine lines because the oil acts as a lubricant and a barrier, helping to keep moisture within the skin from evaporating.

how to attract male clientele

One way to attract male clientele is to offer special services designed just for them. Make them feel comfortable, and tactfully assure them that it is normal for men to have spa services and practice good skin care habits. Conduct consultations privately, without discussing products and treatments out in the reception area where other clients may be present. Some salons and spas cater to men only. The male market will continue to grow as men feel more comfortable about receiving services. In fact, there is a rising trend of barbershop services that provide skin care treatments after shaving.

home care for acne

Proper home care can usually help keep acne under control. However, when clients cannot achieve results with their home care routine, they may seek the aid of an esthetician or a physician. After the skin is analyzed, suggestions are given to the client specific to their needs. It is important for clients to follow the recommended home care routine as outlined by the esthetician. Treatments must be accompanied by a real commitment from the client to maintain their home care regimen. It is important to ask clients not to pick at their blemishes. Explain to them that the skin is delicate, and performing self-extractions will cause the infection to go deeper, possibly spread more rapidly, and perhaps cause permanent scarring. You cannot treat infected skin. Advise the client to first see a dermatologist to medically treat the infection. Home care will include a cleanser, an exfoliant, a mask, a toner, a lightweight hydrator, and a full-spectrum sun protection cream. In addition: Make sure recommended ingredients are not irritating or contraindicated. A foaming or gel cleanser with an exfoliant (AHA, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide) is the best choice. Use an astringent with alcohol to prevent infection. Apply a light, hydrating, oil-free moisturizer and sunscreen for balance and protection. A clay mask is recommended twice per week. A mask with camphor and sulfur also works well for oily skin. Other products may include a hydrating, soothing mask to balance the drying products. All home care includes an analysis of lifestyle to help the client better understand what some of their acne triggers might be. By understanding the causes, the client is better prepared to follow a home care program. Caution!: Performed incorrectly, extraction can cause excessive skin damage, infection, and scarring.

importance of infection control for extractions

Proper infection control is essential when performing extractions, and the process must be correctly executed before, during, and after for each treatment. A sterilizer or autoclave completely kills all microorganisms—including bacteria, viruses, fungi, and bacterial spores—with highly pressurized steam. All reusable implements should be placed in the autoclave between treatments. If you don't have a sterilizer or autoclave, use only disposable implements and dispose of these after every use so there is no risk of cross-contamination. In addition, a high-frequency machine is a useful and unique tool for acne-prone skin, helping prevent secondary lesions and decreasing the appearance of inflammation.

how UV exposure contributes to the signs of aging

Repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) sun can cause premature aging of the skin, and artificial UV sources can affect clients in stages throughout their life. Group 1—Classified as mild. Wrinkles do not form during this stage. Clients see mild pigment changes and minimal wrinkles. Group 2—Classified as moderate. Clients may present with age spots and early signs of parallel smile lines, and they may feel the need to wear foundation to cover facial changes. Group 3—Classified as advanced. Clients see obvious signs of discoloration, visible capillaries, and visible keratosis, and they may feel the need to wear heavier foundation. Group 4—Classified as severe. Clients may see yellow-gray skin color and wrinkles throughout.

Be sure to ask about the use of ________ because the skin is more sensitive when such products are used.

Retin-A® and glycolic acid

what must clients wear every day following AHA?

SPF 30

transepidermal water loss (TWEL)

The dehydration of the epidermis occurs through a process called transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The deeper tissues of the skin comprise large cells loaded with moisture, with a moisture differential between the lower layers of 80% and the upper layers of 15%. With such a great difference, there will be a natural tendency for the moisture to move from the lower layers to the upper layers via osmosis. This movement is called transepidermal water loss. The surface of the skin naturally contains lipids and sebum that create a natural moisturizing factor (NMF). When the stratum corneum is intact and healthy, it serves as an effective barrier to inhibit evaporation. If the cells are packed tightly together, the water cannot get through them, but if the cells are loosely packed and flaking, the moisture can easily evaporate. In addition to this, the NMF has the ability to bind moisture into the skin. When the NMF is washed off of the skin with soaps and other alkalis, the cells dry and crack, producing dry skin.

treatments for aging and mature skin

The mature client's skin can be improved, but the natural aging process cannot be reversed, nor will the skin be restored to the same vital condition of youth. The client should be advised that treatments can make the skin look and feel better, but there are no miracle treatments that restore aging skin.

how to use steamer

The steamer nozzle is placed approximately 18 inches away from the client The nozzle can be positioned above or below the client's face.

how stress contributes to the signs of aging

The stress response leads to the secretion of stress hormones (adrenaline, cortisol, and norepinephrine) into the bloodstream to bring about specific physiological changes. Unfortunately, this hyperstimulus effect can impair normal cellular renewal cycles of skin as well. Dermal mast cells (a type of white blood cell) become more reactive, which may lead to the release of a large number of proinflammatory mediators that cause inflammation in your body, resulting in redness of the skin.

extraction

The technique of manually removing comedones and impurities from follicles

extraction methods

There are four methods to use for extractions: forefingers wrapped with gauze; cotton swabs; comedone extractors, and lancets. For the first three methods, press gently around the lesion. Manual comedone removal—gauze wrapped around gloved fingers, dampened with astringent—is useful for the majority of extractions. Comedone extractors are metal tools used for open comedones and sebaceous filaments. Cotton swabs are smaller than fingertips and are especially useful around the nose area. Lancets are for the removal of milia or pustules (check with your state board to see if this is permissible). Important note: Cysts and nodules must be treated by a dermatologist. To achieve optimum success when performing extractions, you must put pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall so that you can extract the impaction with the least trauma to the surrounding tissue. Understanding the angle of the various follicles in the different locations on the skin will enable you to perform extractions easily and effectively.

how poor diet contributes to the signs of aging

There are many examples of how bad food choices affect the skin. For example, dairy products may contain a hormone called IGF-1 that causes inflammation. Cheese, milk, and other dairy products may also increase the amount of oil that your sebaceous glands secrete. The excess oil is likely to clog pores and lead to acne. Finally, dairy makes it harder for dead skin cells to clear out, which allows for oils to collect and become inflamed. Sugar increases blood sugar levels, which spurs insulin (a hormone that helps the body store and use glucose) and IGF-1 production. As mentioned before, IGF-1 is a big cause of inflammation. Therefore, the high amount of sugar found in candy, soda, and other sweet treats not only produces a lot of inflammation, but it also reacts with your skin cells and causes dryness, decreased color, and premature wrinkles (Figure 8-42). Caffeine is a diuretic, that is, it causes water loss and dehydration.

necessary treatments for men with beards

There are products on the market for ingrown hairs that help exfoliate and keep the follicles clean. Exfoliating is necessary to keep the follicles open. A foaming cleanser will also help a man's beard area. Estheticians can help male clients by keeping them informed of how to take care of their skin on a regular basis.

treatment goals of oily skin

This type of skin can develop breakouts easily, so it is important to treat the skin with effective deep cleansing and purifying products. Galvanic current, steam, and extractions can benefit oily skin to keep the pores free of comedones, and exfoliation with oil-controlling ingredients and BHA can lead to a great result as well.

Post-Service Cleanup and preparation for the next client

Time needed: 10-15 minutes End of Service Checklist 1. Create an end of service checklist that works for your space. Not everyone will complete the post-service steps in the same order. 2. Place all soiled laundry linens (towels and sheets) in a covered receptacle. 3. Discard any used disposables into a covered trash container. 4. Disposable extraction lancets go in a sharps disposal container. (Check OSHA and state rules for proper handling.) Caution: Do not put wet brushes in a closed drawer or container because moisture may cause mildew and not dry properly. Lay brushes out to dry, covered with a clean towel before storing in a closed container. 5. Wipe down all equipment with an EPA-approved disinfectant. 6. Clean trolley and workstation surfaces. Clean and disinfect the bottom tray and the inside of the towel warmer after removing all used items. 7. Reset products and disposable items and replenish clean robes and spa wraps. 8. Use an antibacterial dish soap and warm water to wash the used bowl(s). Rinse and dry thoroughly. 9. Change linen on the treatment table. End of day checklist 1. Complete the end of service checklist and check the schedule for the next shift or workday. 2. Use an end-of-day checklist to make sure you do not forget anything. 3. Turn off and unplug all equipment. 4. Leave the towel-warmer door open to dry and empty the tray underneath before cleaning and disinfecting it. 5. Clean anything that has not been cleaned after the last service, including the equipment, bed, sink, counters, and doorknobs. 6. Refill all containers, supplies, and the steamer. 7. Check floors; sweep or mop as required. Check for wax spills. 8. Empty waste containers. Replace with clean trash liners. 9. Remove personal items from the area.

men's skin care products

To build the market, a salon or spa could carry a specific line of men's skin care products. Most unisex product lines will work as long as the packaging and fragrance are not overly feminine. Men typically have larger sebaceous glands and oilier skin. They also need sun protection. Men may tend to neglect their skin care because it is not considered masculine or a priority. Clients who are especially pleased with visible treatment results are more willing to try a home-maintenance program. When considering a men's skin care line, keep in mind several key points. Be sure the products are basic and the routines are simple. Men do not want highly fragranced, feminine products. For instance, lotions need to be light, be without fragrance, be highly absorbent, and have a matte finish. Most men do not like the greasy feeling of some products. Men prefer simple routines and multipurpose products. They would rather have a moisturizer that they can use day and night, or one that already contains full-spectrum sunscreen. They also like the foaminess of soaps, so a foaming cleanser is a good choice. They can use a toner just like they would an aftershave lotion. They should then apply a light moisturizer with sunscreen. Give male clients specific instructions on how and when to use products. Keep the following tips in mind when working with male clients: Tubes and pumps that are easy to open are more male-friendly than jars are. His home care regimen should begin with only two products: a cleanser and a hydrating lotion. If he wants three, add sunscreen. As he grows accustomed to the regimen and sees favorable results, he will most likely add to his regimen by purchasing a toner, eye cream, and a mask. Educate him on sun protection and skin-cancer facts, even if he chooses not to purchase sunscreen. Estheticians can suggest that male clients shave in a downward direction—in the direction of the hair growth pattern—because it is less irritating. Once he is accustomed to receiving treatments and using products, your male client will be more likely to use an eye cream if he is taught how. While men may be conscious of lines and wrinkles around their eyes, they seldom request an eye product. Estheticians can point out the benefits of these and other products.

treatments for sensitive skin

To lessen the appearance of irritation, a gentle cleanser is the best type of cleanser. Detergent-based cleansers can strip the skin's lipids and barrier protection. Cold towels are vasoconstricting, which means they constrict capillaries and blood flow. An enzyme peel formulated for sensitive skin gently exfoliates the skin. A soothing cream or alginate gel mask is great for calming and toning down the appearance of redness. Calamine and calcium carbonate powder mixed with aloe or fresh yogurt are also excellent for sensitive skin. Freeze-dried collagen masks are also excellent for redness or sensitive skin. Lipids such as olive oil extracts and seaweed help to create a moisture barrier on the surface of the skin. Use a serum and moisturizer with hyaluronic acid or squalene to help soothe the symptoms of sensitive skin. Silver ball or cold globes may be used to calm blood flow and reduce redness. They provide a gentle massage with controlled pressure to help both massage skin and apply product

treatment goal for dry skin

Treatment goal: Hydrate the skin with rich masks and creamy cleansers as well as a gentle form of exfoliation to remove the dead, dry skin cells and prevent them from accumulating on the surface. Massage can be very effective.

Dara is an esthetician who specializes in acne facials. In fact, she has several clients who come in from surrounding regions specifically for this treatment. Let's look in at one of Dara's appointments today to learn about recommended practices for acne facials. Dara knows that in her state, she is not legally allowed to use _____ to extract closed comedones, and explains this to her client.

a lancet

what is the final step of a facial?

application of a full-spectrum sunscreen

what should you do next after the initial dry skin analysis?

apply warm towels for a few minutes to warm and moisten the client's skin.

you are required to wear gloves __________ throughout the facial treatment procedure

at all times

during the skin analysis, it is necessary to keep the ____ on hand to write down any information or changes that have occurred in the client's skin, even if the client is a regular and you are familiar with their skin

client's chart

wrinkles develop when the skin loses ____

collagen and elastin

what are serums

concentrated ingredients used for specific corrective treatments

what do you do if blackheads are very dee and have been lodged in the skin for a while?

further soften the keratinized sebum For this purpose, a desincrustation solution used in conjunction WITH a galvanic machine can be very helpful

what type of enzyme peel should you use to exfoliate dry skin?

gentle

benefits of an express facial

gives clients a treatment that can be completed quickly if they are pressed for time can be performed with other services such as waxing, manicure, or pedicure. For men, it can be incorporated into shaving and beard care services. a great way to introduce the client to a beneficial service that may lead to booking for a more in-depth facial series to address specific skin concerns and conditions in an ongoing program.

every new client should be thoroughly consulted about _____ for their skin conditions

home care

what is probably the most important factor in a successful skin care program

home care

what goes into a skin care program

home care salon treatments client education

The spa is the place to educate men on what?

how to shave properly and to protect their skin before and after shaving.

what skin conditions should you NEVER steam

hypersensitive skin, rosacea, inflamed acne

folliculitis

inflammation of the hair follicles. This can be a problem for many men, especially if they have very coarse or curly beard hair. is an infection characterized by inflammation and pus.

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. Knowledge of skin histology, skin analysis, and skin care products is essential for Mikayla to make _____ for her client.

informed decisions

It may be necessary to gently open papules and pustules with a _______ (when allowed by state regulation) to facilitate easier removal and encourage faster healing.

lancet

rosacea

more common in adult females than in males. However, when a male develops rosacea, it usually becomes quite severe Estheticians cannot treat or diagnose any medical condition, and rosacea is considered a medical condition. This condition typically manifests as redness in the central area of the face, including on the cheeks and nose in a butterfly pattern, and it is characterized by flare-ups and remissions. Over time, this redness can become more persistently visible. Broken blood vessels can also become more apparent. Left untreated, pustules and large, inflamed nodules can result that are often misdiagnosed as acne. After a prolonged period, this condition can result in permanent enlargement of the nasal tissue or rhinophyma, where the tip of the nose becomes enlarged and red. Eyes can also become affected, appearing watery and bloodshot. This skin condition can be exacerbated by factors such as alcohol, spicy foods, and heat, making its symptoms similar to hypersensitive skin. While estheticians cannot treat rosacea, they must know how to properly provide a facial for a client with rosacea.

Dara is an esthetician who specializes in acne facials. In fact, she has several clients who come in from surrounding regions specifically for this treatment. Let's look in at one of Dara's appointments today to learn about recommended practices for acne facials. When selecting products for home care, Dara explains to her client that _____ does not mean noncomedogenic.

oil-free

The post-treatment checklist

post-facial: Remove your gloves and wash your hands.; Say goodbye to the client after the consultation.; Rebook the client and make sure they have taken products for at-home use.; Make the client chart notes.; Write up retail sales.; Prepare the room for the next client or carry out end-of-the-day clean-up tasks.; Wear gloves during cleaning procedures. equipment/room: Clean the wax machine and turn it off at the end of the day.; Clean and disinfect the steamer. Refill with distilled water.; Wipe and disinfect the equipment used.; Clean all containers and wipe off dirty product containers with a disinfectant.; Clean and disinfect all counters, sinks, surfaces, and floor mats. supplies: Wash and disinfect brushes, spatulas, tweezers, and other multiuse implements used during the process.; Clean and disinfect bowls and other multiuse items. Dry and store properly.; If there is an autoclave on the premises, put multiuse implements such as tweezers in the autoclave for sterilization after every use.; Remove the dirty linens and remake the bed.; Turn off the bed warmer if used.; Put the linens, towels, and sheets in the appropriate covered laundry hamper.; Change the disinfectant solution to comply with state agency regulations.; Remove or change the towels on the workstation tables.; Put away the supplies. single-use items: Place soiled items such as gloves in a covered waste container.; Place disposable extraction lancets in a biohazard sharps container.

benefits of steam

promotes more effective cleansing the warmth softens the follicles allows for easier removal of comedones

wat is a full-spectrum sunscreen

protects skin from both UVA and UVB rays

what is a major skin complaint spa owners hear from their male clientele?

razor burn

erythema

redness

vasoconstriction

refers to something that causes vascular constriction of capillaries and reduced blood flow

what do you do when the facial is finished

remove your gloves softly let the client know you are finished Tell the client to take their time sitting up offer to assist them in getting off the table 1. Explain to the client what to do next—for example, meet you outside in the reception area. Offer the client some water to rehydrate after the service. 2. The client consultation after the service includes recommending products and booking their next appointment. Show the client which products you recommend, and write them down on a home care instruction sheet for them to keep. 3. Explain that you will also record the products you recommend in their file. 4. Recommend that they reschedule once a month for a facial and any other services you believe would benefit them, such as a brow wax or lash tint. 5. Ask them what products they would like to take home with them. 6. Thank them for coming, and let them know you enjoyed meeting them.

what does the brush machine do?

removed dead skin cells that make the skin feel rough and clog the follicles

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. As Mikayla prepares for her day, she reflects on her career choice as an esthetician. According to the text, her profession is particularly rewarding in that it allows her to help others feel good and make a positive impact on their _____.

self-image

Men tend to have _______- skin that they have mistreated for years.

sensitive

when performing facials on male clients, your movements ____-

should flow with the hair growth

Using the term _______ rather than the term facial is a better way to promote men's services.

skin treatment

desincrustation solution

softens the sebaceous material (oil, dirt, and debris) around the edges of the pores or follicle openings. This helps soften the comedones, making extractions easier with minimal trauma to the surrounding tissue.

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. Mikayla also attributes her success and satisfaction with her career to her ability to focus on learning a basic facial treatment routine before implementing new _____.

steps and variations

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. What are some of the most valuable skills Mikayla will need to ensure her success as an esthetician?

technical skills, customer service, retail sales, knowledge, education, and communication

aging in your 20s

up to 90% of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun and can be seen as early as in one's 20s

what do you do if the skin cannot be steamed or hot toweled

use an additional facial mask

how are massage products applied

warm fingertips or a fan brush

what can replace steam?

warm towels

how are eye and lip creams applied

with fingertips or cotton swabs

how are serums and ampoules applied

with fingertips under a mask or moisturizer also used with facial machines in a variety of treatments

facial

a professional service designed to improve and rejuvenate the appearance of the facial skin This typically includes deep cleansing such as extractions, hydration, massage, mask application or mild peels, possible use of skin treatment machines, and finally the application of serums, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

True/False: cold towels are appropriate for use on clients with sensitive skin

TRUE: Cold towels are vasoconstricting, which means they cause constriction of capillaries and blood flow, reducing the redness associated with sensitive skin.

True/False: extreme weight loss can give skin an aged apperance

TRUE: Extreme weight loss can result in loss of muscle tone and lined and sagging skin, which can give skin an aged appearance.

skin care treatment

a service that is more clinical than relaxation based includes more advanced technologies to yield more of a corrective change in the skin

how long should clients avoid the sun after getting a AHA or BHA product

a week

what should you always check when using hot towels?

always check the towel temperature on the inside of your wrist before applying keep towels away from the nostrils

dermatitis

an inflammation of the skin can be caused by environmental stimuli such as microbes, chemicals and other physical elements redness (erythema), edema (swelling), inflammation, and dryness

what products should you use if the client takes Retin-A or glycolic acid?

products that are pH balanced and designed to soothe the skin.

what products do you NOT have to use a spatula?

products that come in a pump

pseudofolliculitis (razor bumps)

resembles folliculitis without the infection. results from improper shaving techniques.

what should you do if products gets into the eyes?

rinse and flush the eyes immediately with water and cotton. Then resume the procedure.

what skin conditions should you NEVER use hot towels on

rosacea-prone or couperose skin avoid overstimulation and damage to capillaries

mechanical exfoliation

rotary brush or microdermabrasion when applied, it will gently remove dead skin cells and aid in a deeper cleansing

what are emulsions

created by an emulsifier, an ingredient that brings two incompatible ingredients, such as oil and water, together into one homogenous, uniform blend. They can also hydrate and balance the oil-water moisture content of the skin.

edema

swelling

desincrustation

the process used to soften and emulsify sebum such as comedones (blackheads) in the follicles

what are the main differences between an express facial treatment (mini-facial), and a basic facial ?

the time and the number of steps and products

granular or manual exfoliation

the use of a granular product, such as honey and jojoba beads or rice bran wax helps remove the dead skin and debris by manipulation with the fingertips

web resources

www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com www.dayspa.com www.lneonline.com www.skininc.com

what skin type is associated with the treatment goal of stimulating sebum production?

dry skin

how do you remove a cream or clay mask from the skin?

hot towels or cotton

what are the treatment goals for dry and mature skin

hydrate and nourish

oily and combination skin needs _____ products

light, water-based

express facial

may take from 15 to 30 minutes and does not include all the steps of a full, 60 to 90-minute facial. Omitted steps may include steaming, massage, or extractions. may focus on only one area of the face, such as the eye contour area, or provide a quick exfoliation and hydration a professional service designed to improve the appearance of the skin that takes less than 30 minutes

what procedures should you avoid if the client uses Retin-A® or glycolic acid?

mechanical exfoliation, brushing machines, or chemical peels such as alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with a pH lower than 4.2

what is a food or drink that does NOT aggravate rosacea?

milk

when in the facial process should a calming, hydrating mask be applied?

only at the end

what is the key to beautiful skin at any age

prevention and healthy habits

how can you achieve exfoliation?

AHA, BHA, manual scrubs, enzyme peels, or the brush machine

Dara is an esthetician who specializes in acne facials. In fact, she has several clients who come in from surrounding regions specifically for this treatment. Let's look in at one of Dara's appointments today to learn about recommended practices for acne facials. _____ are the strongest products Dara can use on her client. Using them in different percentages and pH factors, she is able to dissolve the desmosomes between cells to keep skin cells exfoliated.

AHAs

elasticity of aging skin

Aging skin often lacks elasticity. Elasticity is the skin tissue's ability to return to its normal resting length after a stressor has been removed. One way to test the skin for elasticity is by taking a small section of the facial skin or neck between the thumb and forefinger and giving the skin a slight outward pull. If the elasticity is good, the skin will immediately return to its normal shape when the skin is released. If the skin is slow to resume its normal shape, it is lacking elasticity. Firming ingredients and treatments are beneficial for skin's elasticity.

treatments for dehydrated skin

It is important to the health of the skin to maintain the natural moisturizing factor and the natural acid mantle. Dehydrated skin is prone to fine lines and wrinkles. It will appear thin and may appear fine in texture but is actually coarse to the touch. If the client's skin seems to be dehydrated from factors that require medical attention (such as diet, lack of fluids, or medication), the esthetician should recommend that the client seek the advice of their physician or dermatologist. In the meantime, facial treatments that can improve the general health of the skin and help it to retain moisture are beneficial. Superficial dehydration will always lead to superficial lines on the skin's surface which eventually will turn into deeper wrinkles. Therefore, early anti-aging skin care will also greatly benefit this skin type.

acne skin

Skin with acne has many of the same characteristics as oily skin but hormones, stress, and other biological factors have caused the formation of acne pustules. This is especially common in adolescents but can manifest at any time in a person's life, particularly during perimenopause. The first signs of acne are usually seen during puberty when there is an increase in the androgen hormones, which stimulate the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands. Blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and pustules are present and easily infected with bacteria.

contraindications for sensitive or sensitized skin, or rosacea

Strong exfoliants such as coarse manual materials, microdermabrasion, aggressive AHA or BHA peels, vacuum suction, the brush machine, and any ingredients with a pH of 3.5 or lower Steam during treatment Stimulating machines or manual massage; a cooling massage device can be used in place of manual facial massage, which can be manipulated to be gentler on the skin Drying products with a pH of 8 or higher Excessive heat such as hot water, steam, or towels; lukewarm water should be used during facials

perform an acne treatment procedure

The following is a basic outline of a facial that incorporates deep cleansing, comedone extraction, and skin balancing treatments that will help oily, problematic skin get back on track to a beautiful, healthy complexion. Some steps may be omitted or rearranged, depending on the treatment goals and the client's needs. Products: comedone extractor, cotton, cotton squares, cotton swabs, eye pads, fresh linens, trash can, gauze, gloves, hand cream, lancet, makeup remover, mixing bowl, client robe, scissors, sharps container, sink or basin of water, spatula, unscented tissues 1. Wash hands and put on gloves. 2. Perform deep cleansing. Cleanse skin using a soap-free formula that deep cleanses without causing dryness, preferably one that contains salicylic acid to gently exfoliate the skin. Cleansers should also contain soothing ingredients such as seaweed and green, white, and rooibos teas. 3. Analyze the skin. Use a magnifying lamp to check for open pores, open and closed comedones, pustules, milia, or any redness or irritation. If skin is irritated or sensitive, skip steaming. 4. Steam and apply serum. Steam the face while applying a gentle skin serum that combines exfoliating ingredients such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids with softening ingredients such as seaweed and natural extracts that help calm the appearance of the skin such as chamomile and lavender. This can be applied in gentle effleurage movements. * Remember, the clogging in the sebaceous gland is a keratinaceous plug. Keratin is a hard protein like that found in your hair. We have to soften this keratin before we can do our extraction. It's like opening a bottle with a cork. Before you can remove the contents, you have to remove the cork. 5. Proceed with desincrustation. Soften the outermost layer of the skin before proceeding with extraction. This is because clients are often using dehydrating ingredients such as hydrogen peroxide on their skin at home to treat their acne pimples. The esthetician will most likely find that while the skin is oily, the skin is extremely tight with a lot of dead skin cell accumulation. Even the sebum inside the pores is dried out and dehydrated! You can injure the client's skin at this point if you try to extract a blackhead (open comedone) in this state. The desincrustation solution is the first step in softening the sebum in order to perform a gentle but thorough extraction. 6. Perform extractions, The most important skill an esthetician must master is proper extraction. It must be performed in such a way as to not cause further damage to the skin or make the acne worse. Refer to Procedure 8-7: Performing Extractions for the full instructions on performing extractions. Choose an extraction method that is permitted by your state (manual comedone removal, comedone extractors, cotton swabs, or lancets are for removal of milia or pustules). Put pressure on the skin surrounding the follicular wall so that you can extract the impaction with the least trauma to the surrounding tissue. 7. Apply astringent/toner. Now that extractions have been completed, saturate esthetics wipes with astringent that contains a salicylic acid-tea blend to soothe skin. Applying astringent is critical following extractions to help cleanse the skin, thereby reducing the possibility of secondary infection, and to rehydrate the skin. Do not rub the astringent in, but apply it lightly, paying special attention to the areas where you extracted. 8. Apply a clay-based mask for deep cleansing. Remove with towels. Follow with a clay-based mask to help deep cleanse the pores while helping to make skin feel soothed. Look for a mask that contains sea mud, zinc, and kaolin to help promote surface desquamation and help remove excess oils and debris which may contribute to breakouts. There may be some residual blood left on the skin from the extraction process so continue wearing gloves and apply the mask with a spatula. Leave on for seven to ten minutes and remove by applying warm, moist cotton or towels over the entire face, letting the moisture soak in for a moment, then removing the mask using quick, gentle strokes. Remove any residue with astringent and esthetics wipes. * NEVER FORCE EXTRACTIONS: Most clients will tolerate only 10 minutes of extractions. Check to make sure they are comfortable with the procedure if you intend to work longer. Once the skin becomes dry and resistant, it is time to stop the procedure. At the end of your service, book the client's next appointment so that you can continue their extractions during their next treatment. 9. Apply a soothing mask. Remove with wet cotton. Follow with a soothing mask, such as a calamine mask combined with tea extracts, zinc, and organic buttermilk powder to help reduce the appearance of redness on the skin. Leave on for 10 minutes and perform a relaxing 10-minute hand massage. Your client will appreciate it after the extractions! After 10 minutes, remove the mask with wet cotton and clean warm water. Follow up with an astringent that helps tone the skin's appearance. Note: A client should never leave the salon with red, irritated skin after a facial treatment. 10. Apply moisturizer. After masks, we are ready for a moisturizer that does not clog skin while it helps to lessen the appearance of oil. Remember that the client was just deep cleansed and is about to go out into the environment. It is key for the client's skin to be moisturized upon completion of the facial treatment to further reduce dryness and the appearance of irritation. Use a mattifying moisturizer that is formulated with zinc as well as squalane, a moisturizing ingredient found in sebum as essential fatty acids to help restore moisture yet reduce oil and shine. 11. Perform galvanic or high-frequency treatment. High-frequency germicidal rays can be applied to the skin for faster healing time of lesions and prevention of secondary infections. (Again, please check with your local and state boards regarding use of galvanic and high-frequency devices.) Contraindications to using high frequency include pregnancy, high blood pressure and/or heart conditions, and patients with a high amount of metal in their mouth from dental procedures. Place your index finger on the electrode and apply to the client's entire face in circular motions, moving over the entire face for a total of three to five minutes. Remove the index finger when the electrode makes contact with the skin. You can also target specific areas by lifting the electrode on and off the skin. You may also incorporate this step right after extractions. 12. Finish with the post-treatment consultation. Education and knowledge are key in helping clients with problem, oily skin. The client should be advised of the importance of in-salon treatments and following a home care program especially designed for them. Additional important points to cover: Break bad habits such as picking and squeezing the skin. Overcleansing can be detrimental to acne-prone skin. It can further irritate the skin, stripping essential moisture and causing inflammation and additional risk of infection. Maintain a healthy diet. New research has found that dairy and fermented or yeast-based foods can exacerbate acne conditions. These include aged cheeses, highly processed milk, wine, beer, champagne, and mushrooms. Skin care experts now recommend probiotics to counteract unhealthy bacteria living in the stomach lining and the resulting inflammation that can increase acne flare-ups. Avoid sunbathing, and not just because of the damaging UV light. Once considered part of an acne treatment program, UV light can initially dry up excess sebum and reduce pustules, but can lead to a cascade of reactions that actually increase oil production and sebum buildup on the skin.

what should you do after any chemical exfoliation procedure?

always apply SPF 30 educate your client on post-treatment

when do you apply warm towels for dry skin?

after dry skin analysis

what are the benefits of extractions

allows the follicles to contract back to their natural size if skin elasticity is good often the only way to expel comedones clean out the follicles expelled impurities removal of papules

Dara is an esthetician who specializes in acne facials. In fact, she has several clients who come in from surrounding regions specifically for this treatment. Let's look in at one of Dara's appointments today to learn about recommended practices for acne facials. Dara's treatment plan for her client includes clearing the follicles by deep cleansing and extractions. However, it focuses primarily on _____.

balancing the skin

during an acne treatment, why is it important to soften the outermost layer of the skin prior to beginning any extraction?

because the skin is tight and dehydrated

when do you use steam?

before deep pore cleansing

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. Mikayla has followed the advice from her instructor, who stressed that all estheticians should have a thorough understanding of facial treatments to be able to provide services that are safe, healthy, and _____ for their clients.

beneficial

as skin ages it undergoes ____

biological changes

folliculitis barbae

caused by improper shaving the hair grows slightly under the skin and is trapped there, causing a bacterial infection. The treatment goal for this condition is to alleviate the irritation, dry up and disinfect the pustules, and desensitize the area. A soothing gel mask is probably the most comfortable product for a male client to use in this area.

sensitized skin

can result from overaggressive exfoliation, or from exposure to aggressive environmental factors such as cold, wind, low humidity, and air pollution. This skin may become highly sensitive, and needs to be treated as sensitive skin until it returns to its normal state. Avoid inflammatory ingredients until skin has returned to its normal state. Irritants and sensitizing ingredients can be essential oils, exfoliants, fragrances, color agents, and preservatives. All of these may cause skin reactions and irritation.

what does a facial typically include?

deep cleansing such as extractions, hydration, massage, mask application or mild peels, possible use of skin treatment machines, and the application of serums, moisturizer, and sunscreen.

Dara is an esthetician who specializes in acne facials. In fact, she has several clients who come in from surrounding regions specifically for this treatment. Let's look in at one of Dara's appointments today to learn about recommended practices for acne facials. Dara uses the process of _____ to soften oil and comedones in follicles.

desincrustation

what should you use if performing extractions?

desincrustation solution or a mask

where should you first put down a towel?

décolleté

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. Providing _____ is an important part of Mikayla's facial treatments. She makes certain to stress the benefits of facial treatments, as well as to ensure that her clients understand them.

education and consultations

what are moisturizers

emulsions that can be cream, oil, or gel based.

chemical exfoliant

enzyme and alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), beta hydroxy acids (BHA), azelaic acid, or kojic acid can be chosen based on the level of accumulation of dead skin cells and skin sensitivity lessens the appearance of wrinkles and skin discoloration Desincrustation solution can be applied to loosen sebum accumulations in the hair follicles, making extractions easier. The solution softens the sebaceous material (oil, dirt, debris) around the edges of the pores or follicle openings.

what is not a benefit of manual extracion?

expanded follicles

sensitive skin

experiences a cascade of free radical activity that causes skin-destructive enzymes to form These enzymes attack the skin's integrity, leading to premature aging in the form of wrinkles and loss of elasticity. can be a biologic condition that readily reacts to a variety of factors such as specific chemicals, airborne debris, and/or certain skin care ingredients, resulting in skin that often appears blotchy, broken out, or excessively dry. Dry patches and redness are often present with this type of skin. Skin can easily become red and warm to the touch. This skin type can be confused with rosacea or couperose skin types.

what will you be able to perform easily and efficiently once you understand the angle of the various follicles in the different locations on the skin?

extractions

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. During her consultation with a new client, Mikayla explains that a(n) _____ is a professional service designed to improve and rejuvenate the skin.

facial

what are the core introductory treatments that estheticians perform

facial treatments

what do toners do?

finish the cleansing process by removing any products left on the skin help balance the skin's pH can also help skin problems such as dehydration or acne

when is sunscreen especially necessary

following the use of any AHA or BHA product or glycolic peel

Mikayla is an esthetician for Genesis Salon and Spa. She recently participated in a spa retreat where she acted as a guest esthetician and provided services, and is now seeing more clients as a result. Today, she will be working with a few regular clients as well as two new ones. Mikayla realizes that continuing her education with advanced classes and attendance at conferences and trade shows will keep her informed, excited, and _____.

motivated

what do moisturizers do

near-final step of facial restore the moisture in the skin seal in moisture help reinforce the barrier layer of the skin

astringent application is critical for everything except

soothing the skin