History of Costume Exam 2

"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called

Paniers

Rococo general colors

Pastel colors, especially for women

Part of doublet; Stuffed with bombast

Peascod belly

Which of the following are undergarments today, but were a visible part of outergarments in the 16th century?

Petticoats

Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of

-Banyans -Pastel colors -Floral motifs (All of the above)

Spanish fashion influence on gowns

-Bodice becomes more rigid -Straight waistline develops V in front

English Civil War

-Cavaliers (royalists) vs Roundheads (Puritans) -Split in ideology and fashion

Undergarments 18th Century

-Chemise -Corsets -Paniers

Influence of trade with China and India on costume

-Cotton—lighter/pastel colors -Floral motifs

Knitting

-Extant pieces from Egypt -Revived in Renaissance

Starch was used

-First in Ancient Egypt -To maintain shape on collars and ruffs -In Europe beginning in the Renaissance (All of the above)

Before lace designs were limited to

-Geometric designs -Lace is more free form

Neoclassicism court dress for women

-High hair -Pomade

Court dress

-Huge paniers -Widest in 1740s in England

Life's work of lacemaking

-In damp basements with poor lighting -Severely affected eyesight and health

Banyan

-Influence from India -Painted/printed textiles

English country dress

-Lighter colors -Cotton

Madame de Pompadour

-Louis XV's mistress -Fashion influencer

Wheel farthingale

-Metal support -Underskirt or slip

Frock coat

-New garment -More informal with Flat, turned-down collars -Leather or sturdy woven cloth -After 1770--Accepted for formal wear

The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called

-Petticoat breeches -Rhinegraves (A and C only)

The "Modern Man" look includes

-Plainer fabric -Closer fitting coat and shorter waistcoat -Breeches (All of the above)

How might a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing

-Purchase used clothing -Join a "breeches club" -Save enough money over a period of several years (All of the above)

Polonaise

-Skirt puffed up with loops and strings underneath -Worn a la Polonaise

Manteau/Mantua

-Sleeved bodice with overskirt attached -Fabric pulled to back; Drawn back like curtains -Typical of Late Baroque

Rococo women

-Softer floral motifs -Sheer cotton from India; becomes symbol of luxury

Which may have derived from Middle Eastern styles?

-The manteau -The vest (A and B only)

Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in

-The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women -The designs and motifs in some woven Italian textiles (A and C only)

Stomacher

-Triangular shaped bodice piece -Sewn onto front of gown

Spanish farthingale

-Triangular/cone shaped; Graduated rings; Floor-length; wire or willow

Starch for ruffs

-Used by Egyptians -Revival comes along with lace

Red high heels and soles

-Worn by European royalty -Associated with Louis XIV (and his Court)

Gown with 3/4 sleeves

-Worn by early Baroque women -Wrist and forearm exposed

The frock coat was

-Worn instead of the coat in informal situations -Inspired by the English Country Look -Now an accepted option to coat (All of the above)

Boot hose

-Worn with funnel boots -Folded over; show lace

Rococo modern man look

-coat, waistcoat, breeches

The fashion for "slashing and puffing" was inspired by

1477 Swiss victory over Burgundy

When were the first fashion illustrations printed?

1580, during the Italian Renaissance

When the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy" used the term "macaroni" in the late 1770s, it was making reference to

American attempts to be fashionable

A la Anglaise

Pleats stitched down

A perfumed ointment made of apples or wheat paste worn on the hair was

Pomade

The _______ is also called a "Puritan" collar

Rabat

The Robe en Chemise, made of sheer cotton, is the forerunner of the

The empire dress

Popularity of pastel colors and floral motifs was a result of

Trade with China and India

T or F: The "Flea Cravat" was worn to keep fleas off one's body

False

T or F: A major change in the fit of stockings came about when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I

True

T or F: Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men

True

T or F: Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him

True

T or F: In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible

True

T or F: Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another. Italian influences in styles were brought to France by Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king

True

T or F: Smocks and Short gowns were working class clothing during the 18th century

True

T or F: The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume in the 16th century

True

T or F: The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for Court Dress in England

True

Trunk hose

Upper hose or full trunks that extended from upper thighs to waist; Upper part of leg

Types of embroidery in the Italian Renaissance

Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork

Foldover boots

Wider as you get to the knee/wider at the top

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated

With the Swiss Army

Catherine de Medici

Wore high heels (chopines) made in Florence and influenced Paris fashion

Needle Lace

Wrapped and bundled with buttonhole stitch; Stitches link motifs

A la Francaise

Open pleats

2 types of Watteau gowns

-A la Francaise -A la Anglaise

Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were

-A preference for bleached, blonde hair -High, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking -Hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead (All of the above)

Which were devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?

-Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins -Balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance -Patches to cover skin blemishes (All of the above)

A greater availability of fabric during the Industrial Revolution led to

An acceleration of fashion change

Pomade was made with

Apples or wheat paste

Mantua-style gowns for women, men's dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume

Asian and Middle Eastern

Significance of the late Baroque elimination of doublet

Beginning of modern dress

English and French smuggle lace from

Belgium

Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with

Bombast

What were Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements stuffed with?

Bombast

Eleanora de Toledo

Brought Spanish fashion to Italy

Pelisse

Cape with slits for arms

Platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans

Chopines

When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the

Codpiece

Parti-colored

Color blocking

Before lace all trimming and edging was

Cutwork

Short jacket with small peplum

Doublet

Neoclassicism "milkmaid" style for women

Dress worn "a la polanaise" is part of "milkmaid" style

Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called

Eschelles

Periwigs

Full, very curly wigs

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that

His uncle was old fashioned

The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of

Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns

Importance of lace

Indication of wealth

New printed cotton fabrics imported from India

Indiennes

Development of lace

Lace is free-form luxury fabric

What was taught to girls as young as 5 years old

Lacemaking

Which description most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?

Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments

Bobbin Lace

Numerous threads twisted and crossed over; NEVER tying knots

What affect does the beginning of the Industrial Revolution have on costume?

Leads to acceleration of fashion change

Cravat

Long strip of linen with lace edges

Clothing for men and women were generally made by

Male professional tailors until after the 1700s

Robe en Chemise

Muslin (usually white) -resembles chemise undergarment Soft-looking -Forerunner of early 19th c "Empire"waist gowns

In which type of lace are threads wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch?

Needle

Acts of Apparel

No one under the rank of knight could wear lace

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because

Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century

A black ribbon tied around the neck is called a

Solitaire

In the Baroque period, the ______ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale

Spanish

What style influenced Renaissance fashion?

Spanish

Baldrick

Sword belt