Intro 2 Textiles Test 1

Where is silk produced

mostly in south and far east asia

What insects like wool?

moths

Cotton characteristics depend on what:

seed variety, growing conditions, processing

Sources of animal fibers:

sheep, lambs, angora rabbits, minks, alpaca, camals, goats, yak, llamas, silk worms

What is a Care Label

"a permanent label or tag, containing regular care information and instructions, that is attached or affixed in such a manner that it will not become separated from the product and will remain legible during the useful life of the product" (Source - 16 CFR Part 423, Federal Trade Commission).The care label is important, as it provides information used by consumers to make purchasing decisions and to care for the garment.

Flax care:

-can be ironed and dry cleaned and bleached. -can get silverfish and mildew

What do animal hairs have in common?

wool is dull and hairs mostly have a slight crimp

Major end use categories:

-Apparel: casual wear, active wear, sleepwear -Household & Institutional textiles: sheets, towels, shower curtain -Textiles for interior: carpets, lampshades, curtains, wall hangings -Technical textiles: bulletproof vest, flame proof, medical supplies

flax coloring:

-Color - Color ranges from light yellowish white to gray. The method of retting (see Flax - Production) affects the color of the fiber. -Luster - Flax has a natural luster due to the residual waxes from the flax stem.

Drape:

-Drape is "a term used to describe the way a fabric falls while it hangs; the suppleness and ability of a fabric to form graceful configurations"

Care Label Rule

-Governed by the FTC, care labeling in the USA is mandatory. -Info or care labels help consumers make purchasing decisions and allows for proper care of clothing. -Care labels can be written as a text in english as symbols or both.

How do we select the correct textile:

-Performance: what is more important: aesthetics, comfort, durability? -Intended use: how & by whom will the product be used? -Product care: can it be washed or will it have to be dry cleaned? -Cost: is the cost comparable to similar items? -Consumers preferences: does the target market prefer ecofriendly products? Is there a preference for natural fibers? -Applicable laws & regulations in the country where the textile is manufactured and where it will be sold.

Physical Appearance:

-Physical Appearance of a textile, whether it is made into a garment or used in interior design, is often an important criterion for the consumer. Color, luster, and opacity of the fabric affect physical appearance. Luster is the sheen that comes from light reflected off the fiber surface. Opacity or covering power is the ability of the fabric to hide the object behind it. It is affected by the transmission of light through the fibers and yarns as well as cover factor

Care Label Requirments:

-Wash instructions -Drying instructions -Ironing instructions -Dry cleaning instructions -Potential damage warnings -fiber content -country of origin -identification of manufacturer, importer or other dealer be included on permanent textile product labels.

Wrinkle and Crush Resistance

-Wrinkle and Crush Resistance refer to the ability of a fabric to return to its original position when distorted due to bending, wrinkling, and crushing. Wrinkle resistance is important for apparel. Crush resistance is important for carpets, rugs, and pile fabrics. Wrinkle recovery and crush resistance are influenced by the resilience of the fibers, yarn properties, fabric structure and finishes.

Moisture properties:

-absorption is a fiber's ability to take in water -hydrophilic: absorb moisture EX: diapers -hydrophobic: repels water, does not absorb EX: rain jacket -wicking: fiber's ability to transport water/liquid/sweat along the surface EX: workout gear -oleophilic fibers have an affinity for oil -oleophobic fibers have no affinity for oil

Cellulosic fiber damaged

-all must be cleaned -can be damaged by silverfish -mildew -acids -moths, mothballs

Cotton fiber color:

-cotton is typically off-white and needs bleaching -can come in colors in small quantities -Luster - Short fibers are dull. Longer fibers have comparatively more luster.

silk care:

-does not shrink when washed or dry cleaned -should be ironed with care -can be washed -raw silk should be dry cleaned

Is wool envrionmentally friendly?

-does not take much energy to process wool, animals don't die. Renewable and Sustainable. Wool is a renewable resource that can be shorn from sheep annually. It is biodegradable and kinder to the environment than oil-based synthetics, which contribute to global pollution. Wool is sustainable. Wool from free-grazing sheep, treated ethically throughout their long lives, represents a traditional small-scale industry that once thrived in America. Today, many small organic farmers are returning to this sustainable industry to create clean and healthy wool that is produced without stress to the animals or the environment.

End uses:

-handkerchief linen, table cloths

care for wool:

-little to no ironing -needs to be dry cleaned -prone to damage by moths -felting shrinkage -chlorine bleach damages it

Wool performance:

-low strength -fiber crimp allows for low abrasion resistance -fibers usually break away -very good elastic recovery, resilient -insulation -high moisture -coarse fibers irrate skin -shrinking due to felting from the scales

Types of Labels:

-printed label: meets the requirments -woven tag: label meets the TFPIA requirments -print on shirt (IZOD)

silk performance:

-one of strongest natural fibers -good flat abrasion resistance but poor flex abrasion resistance -average resistance to wrinkling -moderate moisture -does not irritate skin -damaged by exposure to sunlight

Cotton performancce

-poor flexing abrasion resistance -poor wrinkle resistance -biodegradable -burns quick -damaged by sunlight -hydrophilic: good moisture absorption

Flax is obtained from

-the stem from a flax plant -comes from france, belguim, ireland, russia and china -exposed to microorganisms, or chemical retting to get ready for fibrous

Lamb's Wool

-under 7 months old -natural tappered tip that is lost after first clipping -very soft -superior spinning chararcteristics

Flax performance:

-very strong and stiff -hydrophilic, very good moisture absorption and wicking -biodegradable -damaged by the sun -high flat abrasion resistance -poor wrinkle resistance

wool end uses:

-winter sweaters, wool blend suits, rugs, wool felt hat, cashmere scarves

Surface contour and shape:

A MICROSCOPE is used to view the surface contour (longitudinal view) and shape (cross-section) of fibers. The longitudinal view and cross-section are used to identify natural fibers. The shape of other manufactured fibers can be changed to influence performance. Surface contour and shape affect cohesiveness (the ability of fibers to hold together when spun into a yarn), luster, opacity, hand, texture, and apparent soiling.

What is a textile Fiber?

A fiber is the basic unit from which textile products are made. Based on the source, fibers are broadly divided into natural and manufactured fibers. Further classification is based on source and chemical composition.

Luster:

A fiber's sheen or shine is dependent on the light reflected from its surface.

Where do protein fibers come from?

ANIMALS

Abrasion Resistance:

Abrasion Resistance is the ability of a fabric to withstand wear caused by the rubbing of the fabric in question against another fabric or surface. Several factors affect abrasive wear; thus, it is difficult to simulate for testing purposes. Abrasion resistance is related to the fiber properties, particularly strength and elastic recovery and resilience, to the yarn properties including the hairiness and twist, and to the fabric properties including density of the fabric construction and weight. Types of abrasion include: Flat abrasion - wear of a fabric surface when the fabric is flat and stationary (e.g., abrasion of an upholstered chair seat.) Edge abrasion- wear of a fabric surface along a folded edge (e.g., abrasion of cuffs and collars.) Flex abrasion - wear of a fabric that results from flexing or folding (e.g., abrasion of a seat belt.)

Textile Product Performance:

Aesthetics Comfort Durability

Aesthetics:

Aesthetics includes properties that affect fabric appearance when an item is new and during its use. Given below are the characteristics or properties that are included under aesthetics: -physical appearance -wrinkle/crush resistance -drape -dimensional stability -shape retention -snagging -pilling -colorfastness

Polymer Structure

All fibers are made of long-chain molecules known as polymers. Polymers are composed of smaller molecules called monomers that are chemically joined together to form long chains. The physical and chemical characteristics of the fibers depend on the physical and chemical characteristics of the polymers from which they are made.

Natural Fibers:

Cellulose>Seed Hair: Cotton, Kapok, Milkweed>Bast: Flax (linen), Ramie, Hemp, Jute>Leaf: Sisal, Abaca, Pina, Raffia>Fruit Husk: Coir Protein>Animal Hair: Wool, Specialty Wool, Fur Fibers>Extruded: Silk, Spider Silk Mineral> Abestos

silk appearance

Color - The color of the silk is dependent primarily on the species of silkworm and its diet prior to spinning its cocoon. Cultivated silk is off-white, whereas the color of wild silk ranges from off-white to dark brown. Luster - Silk fibers, especially cultivated silk, are lustrous. Silk noil is dull.

Wool appearance:

Color - The color of the wool and specialty wool fibers depends on the breed. The majority of wool fibers obtained from sheep and lamb are off-white and can therefore be easily dyed. Camel hair is brown. Other wools and specialty wools are shades of white, gray, brown, and black. Luster - Wool fibers are usually dull. Some fibers, such as cashmere wool, have a degree of luster. Crimp - Wool fibers have natural crimp, which varies by breed; textures range from fine crimped to almost straight.

Colorfastness:

Colorfastness is the ability of the product to retain its color during use and care. This broad category includes colorfastness to bleach, perspiration, salt water, laundering, dry cleaning, rubbing (also called crocking), light, fumes and other factors that may affect color retention. Colorfastness is important for most fabrics. Laboratory tests are often conducted to measure the colorfastness of fabrics. Type of dye, method of dyeing, and conditions of exposure contribute to colorfastness problems. If a color does not bleed, crock, or fade, it is "fast."

Comfort:

Comfort includes characteristics or properties of the fabric that enable the body to maintain a stable core temperature, allow ease of body movement, and do not irritate the skin. There are six characteristics/properties that affect comfort. -Moisture Absorbance and Transport -Thermal Insulation -Stretch and Recovery -Static Buildup -Tactile Properties -Skin Irritants and Allergens

Cotton grading:

Cotton is graded based on: Length (longer is better) Color (whiter is better, except naturally colored cottons) Cleanliness (brown flecks of 'trash' are undesirable) Fineness (finer is better) Strength (stronger is better) Cotton is graded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) using High Volume Instruments (HVI). The data, entered into a national database, are available to textile mills. The grading criteria for Upland cotton are different from that of Pima cotton.

Silk grades

Cultivated silk and certain wild silk varieties are reeled to produce high-quality filament silk yarns. Silk reeled as filaments are too valuable to be cut into staple lengths for producing spun yarns. Fine silk fabrics are often more expensive than fabrics with similar weight and construction made of other fibers. Silk fibers that cannot be reeled are used to produce lower quality spun-silk yarns. Spun silk can be produced only with cocoons in which filament fibers have been damaged due to the emerging of the silk moth. Spun silk is produced from both ends of the cocoon that could not be reeled. These spun yarns are typically lower in cost. Terms such a waste silk and silk noil are used for staple silk fibers that are used to produce spun silk; these less expensive yarns do not have the same luster as the fine silks made of filament fibers. Dupion or Doupioni silk is reeled from cocoons that became entangled as they were spun. Doupioni silk is characterized by yarn of variable diameter (producing fabric slubs) as the entangled filament cannot be separated.

Dimensional stability:

Dimensional Stability is the ability of the fabric to resist shrinkage or gain during use and care. It is calculated by measuring the fabric along the length and width before and after laundering. Fabric distortion, an equally important factor that affects appearance, can be determined by measuring the fabric diagonally in addition to measuring along the length and width to determine dimensional stability. In some cases, poor dimensional stability can be directly related to fiber property, while in others it is due to fabric structure. Poor dimensional stability is typically due to: -Relaxation Shrinkage or Gain - Because fabrics can be stretched out of shape during manufacturing, some change in dimensions can occur the first few times that the fabric is washed. Relaxation shrinkage/gain is irreversible. Fabrics are preshrunk or heat set to reduce relaxation shrinkage/gain. -Felting Shrinkage (wool only) - A fabric's dimensions change due to the interlocking of scales on the surface of the wool fibers when the fabric is subjected to moisture, heat, and agitation. Felting shrinkage is irreversible. -Residual Shrinkage - The reduction in length and/or width of a fabric as a result of fiber swelling when washed is residual shrinkage. The fibers become shorter and thicker as they swell, resulting in a dimensional change in the fabric. Residual shrinkage is often reversible. Garments tend to return to the original dimensions during use.

Why do the animal fibers have scales?

Due to the small scales on the surface of the wool fiber as well as other factors such as the crimp, wool when combined with warm water, soap and a little agitation will matt together in an irreversible process called felting. Dirt can easily get out.

Durability:

Durability is a term used to describe a fabric's useful life and its ability to perform properly to meet the requirements of the product made from the fabric. Characteristics typically considered as being components of the physical performance of a fabric and its durability include: -Strength -Abrasion Resistance -Weathering

Resistance to Sunlight:

Exposure (especially prolonged exposure) to sunlight may cause degradation of certain polymers (e.g., silk, nylon and olefin). Generally, the ultraviolet (UV) component of sunlight causes degradation. Resistance to sunlight is dependent on the chemical composition of the polymer. Sunlight resistance of a fiber affects the fabric's use for window treatments and outdoor applications.

What government agency enforces textile labeling?

FTC Federal Trade Commision

Fineness:

Fiber fineness is a relative measure defined by diameter, cross-sectional area, linear density, perimeter, and mass-per-unit length. It is an important criterion for grading natural fibers such as cotton and wool. Fiber fineness affects drape, hand, wrinkle resistance, and strength.

Where is cotton grown?

In tropical and subtropical conditions. 2/3 of it is grown in 1. China 2. India 3. United States

HIGH luster to LOW luster:

Lyocell - Cotton

Moisture Absorbance and Transport:

Moisture Absorbance and Transport is the ability of a fabric to hold or transport liquid (perspiration) and moisture vapor away from the body. Moving moisture away from the body enables the body to maintain its core body temperature and remain dry in hot/humid conditions. The fiber's absorbency and wicking properties, the fabric's air permeability, and functional moisture management finishes affect the moisture absorbency and transport properties of a fabric. EX: towels need to absorb

Where do cellulosic fibers come from?

PLANTS

Pilling:

Pilling is "the tendency of fibers to work loose from a fabric surface and form balled or matted particles of fiber that remain attached to the surface of the fabric" (Source - Dictionary of Fibers and Textile Technology). Pills are formed when a fabric rubs against another fabric or against other objects during use and care. Fiber length and tenacity (strength), yarn twist and hairiness (see the section on Yarns), and fabric construction are the major factors that affect pilling. Pilling impacts the appearance and the hand of a garment.

Two main varieties grown in the US:

Pima, upland,, supima, egyption, sea island, asiatic -In the U.S., American Upland and American Pima cotton are the two main cotton varieties. Cotton growing states, referred to as the "cotton belt," are divided into Southeast, Mid-South, Southwest, and West regions. American Upland cotton, a short to medium staple, accounts for approximately 95% of U.S. cotton and cotton-blend production. It is grown in all four regions. American Pima, also known as extra-long staple (ELS), is grown in Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, and California. Note: Pima cotton is used to manufacture finer combed cotton fabrics. Supima, a promotional organization of American Pima cotton growers, licenses the term Supima® for products that meet its criteria.

Resistance to Insect Damage:

Protein and cellulosic fibers are food sources for insects. The ability of a fiber to resist insect damage affects fabric care and storage choices.

Manufactured Fibers:

Regenerated Cellulose>Rayon, Lyocell: Cellulose Derivatives: Acetate, Triacetate Regenerated Protein>Azlon Synthetic>Petroleum: Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Spandex Rubber> rubber Mineral> metallic, glass

Four categories of cellulosic fibers:

Seed, Bast, Leaf, Fruit

Cotton cross section:

Shape (cross-section) - Fibers are kidney-shaped with a hollow center core known as a lumen.

Flax cross section

Shape (cross-section) - Flax fibers are polygonal with rounded edges and a small lumen (not visible in all fibers). The fiber shape and diameter vary considerably.

silk cross-section

Shape (cross-section) - Silk fibers are triangular with rounded edges. The shape and size of each individual fiber is different because each silkworm spins the silk a little differently. Differences in cross-section also depend on the variety of silk.

Wool cross section

Shape (cross-section) - Wool fibers have a round/oval cross-section.

Shape Retention:

Shape Retention is the ability of the fabric to retain its shape during use. Terms such as sagging are used to describe fabrics that have poor shape retention. Poor shape retention stems from fibers with low elastic recovery and low resilience, as well as from fabric structures that are loosely knit or woven so that is easy for the yarns to slip past each other.

Silk

Silk is the only natural fiber that is produced in filament form. Silk, sometimes referred to as the "queen of fibers," is known for its luxurious appearance. Silk fibers are spun by silkworms (moth larvae) to form cocoons. The larvae extrude two strands of silk fiber that are held together by a natural gum. The filaments are made of a protein known as fibroin, and the gum is a protein known as sericin. Silk products from which sericin has not been removed are known as raw silk.

Skin Irritants and Allergens:

Skin Irritants and Allergens such as a rough fabric surface and protruding stiff fibers may cause itching or rash when in contact with sensitive skin. In few cases are the fibers themselves allergenic, but in some cases a finish or dye may be related to a skin reaction.

Snagging:

Snagging is the pulling of yarn(s) out of the fabric surface during use. Obvious loops or ends of the yarns protrude from the fabric and create an unsightly appearance. Fabrics with smooth or high twist filament yarns, long floats, and open structure have a tendency to snag easily. Loops in a loosely-knit fabric may also snag. Snags affect fabric appearance and are more apparent in white and pastel colors.

What is cotton's length:

Staple length, The staple length of natural fibers varies from less than 1 inch as with some cotton fibers to several feet for some hard fibers. -The length of cotton fibers varies by variety. For example, American Upland cotton ranges from 7/8 of an inch to 1 5/16 inches, and American Pima cotton from 1 1/4 inches to 1 9/16 inches. PIMA & EGYPTION are extra long staple fibers

Static Buildup:

Static Buildup is the electric charge that builds up in fabrics made of fibers with poor electrical conductivity. Fibers with low moisture regain are prone to static electricity buildup. These fabrics tend to cling to the body or to one another in dry climates.

Strength:

Strength is a measure of the force required to break or tear or in some other manner cause a fabric to rupture. Strength is often used as an indicator of how long a fabric will last. The following are examples of different types of strength. Tensile or breaking strength is the force required to pull fabric apart longitudinally. Tearing strength is the force required to rip fabric apart by tearing across the yarns. Bursting strength is the force required to burst knit or nonwoven fabrics in a multidimensional manner (rather than along one particular direction of the fabric). Fiber tenacity, yarn structure and fabric construction also affect fabric strength.

Stretch and Recovery:

Stretch and Recovery is the ability of a fabric to extend and then return to its original shape. Fabrics which stretch and recover add to comfort by allowing ease of movement in garments that are snug and do not have garment design ease. Fiber elongation and elastic recovery, yarn structure (including texturing), and fabric structure affect stretch and recovery of the final product.

Cotton Longitudinal view:

Surface Contour (longitudinal view) - Cotton fiber has a natural twist. It looks like a twisted ribbon when viewed under the microscope.

Flax longitudnal view

Surface Contour (longitudinal view) - Flax fibers are straight with nodes that may look like bamboo. The shape and size vary considerably.

silk longitudinal view:

Surface Contour (longitudinal view) - Silk fibers have a smooth surface and translucent appearance. Like other natural fibers, the width of the fiber is not very uniform. Sericin or gum spots are sometimes visible on the surface of the fiber.

Wool longitudinal view:

Surface Contour (longitudinal view) - Wool fibers have scales on the surface of the fiber. The shape and size of scales vary by breed. The wool fiber has a medulla that runs along the core length of the fiber. Under a microscope, the medulla can appear as a black line in the center of the fiber micrographs of coarse fibers.

Tactile Properties:

Tactile Properties are often called "fabric hand." Hand refers to "the tactile qualities of a fabric, e.g. softness, firmness, elasticity, fineness, resilience, and other qualities perceived by touch" (Source - Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology). Fiber flexibility, yarn structure and loftiness, and fabric structure each affect how the fabric feels when it contacts the skin.

Recognizing cotton under a microscope:

The cotton fiber is a single elongated cell. Under a microscope, it looks like flat, spirally twisted ribbonlike tube with rough granular surface. However, mercerized cotton doesn't have natural twist. The finishing process makes them swollen, straight, smooth and round with a shining surface.

Wool Products Labeling Act and Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (referred to as the Textile and Wool Acts)

The rules and regulations under these acts require that the fiber content, country of origin, and identification of manufacturer, importer, or other dealer be included on permanent textile product labels: Note: Items imported into the U.S. must also comply with the applicable laws and regulations of U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP).

Cashmere

The term "cashmere" can be used only for wool fibers that meet the WPLA requirements of fiber source and diameter; not all fibers from cashmere goats can be labeled as cashmere.

Thermal Insulation:

Thermal Insulation is the ability of a fabric to provide insulation by trapping air within the fabric and between the fabric layer and the body. While the warm body heats the trapped air, the fabric holds that warm air, thus creating an insulating layer.

What properties do cellulosic fibers have in common?

They are hydrophilic properties and good absorbency. They can be blended together to become stronger.

Crimp:

This refers to a fiber's waviness. Wool has natural crimp, and crimp can be added to manufactured fibers. Manufactured fibers cut into staple lengths are crimped to improve cohesiveness. Manufactured fibers are also crimped to add bulk or stretch. Crimp affects resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, cohesiveness, bulk, warmth, absorbency, luster, and skin comfort.

Color:

Though dependent on the fiber source, most fibers are white or off-white. The dyeing process is eliminated for naturally colored fibers.

Under the microscope

Under the microscope the silk fiber appears as a thin, long, smooth and lustrous cylinder.

How can wool and animal hairs look under microscope:

Under the microscope, the wool fiber looks like a long cylinder with scales on it. The fiber is very curly and springy. Cloth made from wool includes cashmere, camel's hair, alpaca, covert cloth, flannel, gabardine, mohair, serge, tweed and worsted.

Weathering:

Weathering is the ability of fabrics to withstand environmental conditions such as sunlight, heat, and moisture. The term ageing is used for items that are used or stored for a long period. The consequences of weathering/ageing include color loss, loss in strength, increase in stiffness (or in some cases softness), or changes due to which the material is no longer able to perform well.

Wool grading:

Wool grading is based primarily on fiber fineness; fiber length and crimp are the other two factors that are taken into consideration. Following are two examples of wool grading systems: The USDA numerical count system, commonly used in the United States, consists of 14 grades of wool. The numerical value, known as USDA wool grade, ranges from below 36s (coarsest wool) to finer than 80s (finest wool). Note: This is an indirect system for grading and thus the higher the number, the finer the fiber. Breed is the single most important factor that affects wool quality, and thus wool grade. Data, including wool grade, for several breeds are available on the American Wool Association website. The finer fibers are used to produce worsted wool fabrics. Coarser wool fibers are used to manufacture rugs and carpets.

Yarn:

a continuous strand made with fibers and used to knit or weave fabrics.

Seed Hair Fibers

are attached to the seeds in the pod EX: cotton, kapok, milkweed

Natural Fiber

are found in nature in fibrous (fine and threadlike) form. Cellulose and protein are the two major categories of natural fibers. Cellulosic fibers are obtained from plant sources. Protein fibers are obtained from animal sources.

Filament fibers:

are long continuous fibers extending for great lengths. Silk is the ONLY natural filament fiber. All manufactured fibers are produced as filament fibers. "a fiber of an indefinite or extreme length such as found naturally in silk. Manufactured fibers are extruded into filaments that are converted into filament yarn, staple, or tow"

Manufactured Fiber:

are produced either from raw materials found in nature, or synthesized from chemicals. They are broadly divided into regenerated cellulose, regenerated protein, synthetic, mineral, or rubber.

Staple fibers:

are short fibers. All natural fibers (except silk) are staple fibers. All natural fibers (except silk) are staple fibers. Manufactured staple fibers are "cut to a definite length, from 8 inches down to about 1.5 inches (occasionally down to 1 inch), so that they can be processed on cotton, woolen, or worsted yarn spinning systems. -ranging from <1" to a few feet ALL NATURAL FIBERS EXCEPT SILK ARE STAPLE FIBERS.

Hemp cannot be grown here

because it is classified as a legal drug due to it containing cannibis.

Leaf fibers:

came from the fibrous stem of the leaf EX: pina, abaca, sisal, seagrass, raffia

Breed

color, fineness & luster all depend on breed

The two fibers most commonly used for apparal and interiors:

cotton and flax

Fruit fibers:

cover the hard shell of the fruit EX: coir from coconuts

WPLA

dictates the labeling of wool products in the united states.

Manufacturing process:

fiber->yarn->fabric->dyeing->printing->finishing -fiber spun together into yarn-> knitted or woven together to create fabric-> dyeing process: adding color to our textile materials or products. -> printing process: applying dye, pigment or other chemicals to produce designs on textile materials or product. FINISHING: typically the last step in the manufacturing process to prepare the fabric for use. It includes a variety of processes to enhance aesthetics and function. LIKE acid wash, stain fighting finish.

Other plants used for fiber:

flax, hemp, milkweed, kapok, kenaf, pina, abaca, raffia, seagrass, sisal, cior, bamboo, jute, ramie

Bast Fibers:

fribrous part of the plant stem EX: flax, ramie, hemp, jute, kenaf

Fiber structure:

includes all properties, appearance characteristics that are visible with and with out microscope

Elongation:

is a measure of the fiber's ability to extend when it is pulled along its length until it breaks. The value reported is the length at the breaking point. Elongation of fibers affect both the comfort and appearance properties of fabrics.

Resilience:

is the ability of the fiber to recover after it has been deformed by compression (e.g., crushed, crumpled, or twisted). Resilience of a fiber affects wrinkle recovery of fabrics whether during garment wear or in the laundry. Fabric loft, the ability of a fabric to return to its original shape after compression, is affected by the resilience of the fibers. Thus, resilience is particularly important for carpets and fiber batting.

Elastic Recovery:

is the ability of the fiber to return to its original length after it has been stretched. In determining elastic recovery, the material being tested is extended a specified amount; it is not extended up to the breaking point as it is when evaluating elongation. Elastic recovery of fibers affect both the comfort and appearance properties of fabrics.

Trademark name:

is the name assigned to a fiber that meets the specified criteria. EX: lycra is the trademark name

Generic name:

is the name given to a manufactured fiber based on the chemical composition. EX: nylon, spandex, polyester. NOTE: natural fibers have historically been defined based on fiber source.

Angora wool comes from

rabbit

Fabric:

the cloth produced by interlacing or interloping yarns, or by binding fiber webs.

Types of silk:

waste silk/silk noil, spun silk, fine silk <-- being the most expensive