milady Chapter 21 Haircoloring (copied)
Demipermanent Color
Also called 'no-lift', deposit only color. Formulated to deposit, but not lift (lighten) natural hair color. Able to deposit with out lifting because they are less alkaline than permanent color and are mixed with a low volume developer.
Tone
Also called hue of color, the balance of color.
Lighteners
Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and discolorizing the natural hair pigment.
Hair Lightening
Chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair.
Secondary Color
Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.
Highlighting
Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add the illusion of sheer and depth; do not generally contrast strongly with natural color.
Weaving
Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zig-zag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only on these strands.
Double Process Application
Coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is pre-lightened before the depositing color is applied; also called two step coloring.
Slicing
Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8 inch section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color.
Soap Cap
Combination or equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo applied to the hair like a regular shampoo.
Aninline Derivatives
Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules with in the cortex.
resistant
Difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate. Characteristic of some hair types that makes penetration by moisture or chemicals difficult
Color Filler
Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair.
Pre-lightening
First step of double process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of tones.
Virgin Application
First time hair is colored.
Metallic Color
Haircolors containing metal salts that change color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull, metallic appearance.
semipermanent haircolor
ADDS SUBTLE COLOR RESULTS: Rato last through several shampoos partially penetrates the hair shaft and stains the cuticle layer slowly fading with each shampoo
Tertiary Color
Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal parts.
Permanent Color
Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in one application. They are more alkaline than no lift deposit only haircolors and mixed with a higher volume developer.
Cap Technique
Lightening technique that involves pulling clean strands through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook.
Level
Lightness or darkness of a color. Refers to the saturation, concentration, or density of a color. Answers the question, how much color?
Volume
Measure of varying strengths (concentration) of hydrogen peroxide. The higher the volume, the greater the lifting action.
volume
Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide
Semi-permanent Color
No-lift, DEPOSIT COLOR ONLY, non oxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos.
Temporary Color
Non permanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.
On-the-Scalp Lightener
Oil and cream lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp.
Developer(Hydrogen Peroxide Developer)
Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create change in the color.
Baliage
Painting a lighter (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair.
New Growth
Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored.
Off-the-Scalp Lightener
Powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.
Activators
Powdered perfulfate salts added to the haircolor to increase its lightening ability.
Base Color
Predominate tone of a color.
Complementary Color
Primary and secondary combinations that are directly opposite from each other on the color wheel.
Pre-softening
Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.
Single-Process Application
Process that lightens and deposits color in a single application.
Creamy Consistency
Provides the best control during the application of lightener as part of a Double-Process hair coloring service.
Primary Color
Pure or Fundamental colors (red, yellow, blue) that can't be created by combining other colors.
Toner
Semipermanate, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.
Law of Color
System for understanding color relationships.
Level System
System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a haircolor.
Lowlighting
Technique of coloring strands of hair darker than natural color.
Level System
What colorist use to analyze the lightness or darkness of a hair color
complementary colors
a primary and secondary color positioned opposite each other on the color wheel
haircolor
a professional, industry coined term referring to artificial haircolor products and services
foil technique
a technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil, applying lightner or haircolor and sealing them in
Strand Test
a test performed to determine how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
special effect haircoloring
any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring
lighteners
chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving and decolorizing the natural hair pigment
hair lightening
chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair often called bleaching or decolorizing
secondary color
color by mixing equal amounts of two primary colors
foundation
color left in the hair after it goes through the ten stages of decolorizing
highlighting
coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add the illusion of sheen and depth; highlights do not generally contrast strongly with the natural color
weaving
coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lighterner or color is applied only to these strands
soap cap
combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo applied to the hair like a regular shampoo
mixed melanin
combination of eumelanin and phenomelanin often found in natural hair color
color or tint removers
commercial products designed to remove artificial pigment from the hair
metallic haircolors
contain metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air; creating a dull, metallic apperance also known as gradual haircolor (marketed for men)
color fillers
demipermanent color products used when there is doubt as to whether the color result will be an even shade
demipermanent color
formulated to deposit but not lift also known as deposit only haircolor
tertiary color
immermediate color acheived by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts
cap technique
involves pulling clean strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook
permanent haircolor
is mixed with a developer (hydrogen peroxide) and remains in the hair shaft until the new growth of hair occurs
on the scalp lighteners
lighteners that can be used of the scalp
off the scalp lighteners
lightners that cannot be used on the scalp
highlighting shampoos
mixtures of shampoo and hydrogen peroxide used to slightly lighten natural hair color
natural or vegetable haircolors
natural colors such as henna; obtained from the leaves and bark of plants
glaze
nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair
temporary haircolor
nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing
activator
oxidizer added to hydrogen peroxide to increase its chemical reaction
developer
oxidizing agent that when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color
balayage
painting a lightener directly onto clean styled hair
highlighting shampoo tints
permanent haircolor mixed with shampoo and hydrogen peroxide used when a vey slight change in hair shade is desired, or when the client's hair processes very rapidly
presoftening
process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color
single process haircoloring
process that lightens and colors the hair in a single application
toners
products that are used primarilly on prelightened hair to acheive pale and delicate colors
primary colors
pure or fundamental colors that cannot be achieved from a mixture
booking time
salon time allotted for performing various services
filler
specialized preparations designed to help equalize porosity and deposit a base color in one application
intensity
strength of a color tone; described as mild medium or strong
Law of Color
system for understanding color relationships
slicing
technique that involves taking a narrow 1/8 inch section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp positioning the hair over foil and applying the lightener or color
double process haircoloring
technique that requires two seprate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before depositing color is applied
reverse highlighting
technique used to color strands of hair darker than the natural also known as lowlighting
tone or tonality
term used to describe the warmth or coolness of a color
hair color
the color of hair created by nature
prelightening
the first step of double process haircoloring used to lift or lighten the natural pigment preliminary to application of toner
virgin application
the first time the hair is tinted
new growth
the part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has previously received treatment; also called regrowth
base color
the predominant tonality of an existing color
aniline derivaties
uncolored dye precursors that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger permanent tint molecules in the cortex
level
unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color; sometimes referred to as value or depth
patch test
used to identify a possible allergy in a client, required by the Federal Food Drug and Cosmetic Act; also called predisposition test
line of demarcation
visible line seprating colored hair from new growth
Foil Technique
Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing then on foils or plastic wrap.
Fillers
Used to equalize porosity.
conditioning filler
Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from scalp to ends.
Conditioner Filler
Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair, and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends.
Contributing Pigment
VARYING DEGREES OF WARMTH EXPOSED DURING A PERMANENT COLORING OR LIGHTENING PROCESS: Natural hair color that remains in the hair when the natural color is lightened; must be taken into consideration when haircolor is selected. Also known as undertone.
Line of Demarcation
Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
Oxidation
A process by which oxygen is released, occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.