Nail Technology Chapter 8 Electric Filing

Anatomy of a Bit

1. Concentric bits are balanced bits that do not wobble or vibrate 2. Smooth 3. Many bits are cut with finished edges so that they are not sharp on the top 4. Grit. Higher-numbered grits have particles that are smaller and finer. The coarser the grit; the lower the grit number will be and the larger each individual piece of grit will be per square inch. Bits range from extra fine to coarse based on what its made of. For example, a medium sanding band will not be the same as a medium diamond bit or a medium Swiss carbide bit 5. Shank. The standard size for nail machines is 3/32" (2.38mm)

4 Main Types of Bits

1. Diamond 2. Carbide 3. Silicone 4. Natural

UV / LED Gels filing

1. Even though soften then acrylics they are denser; this makes them more difficult to remove by hand filing. 2. Apply less pressure down during filing 3. Slightly lower speed 4. When choosing bits, consider the thickness of the enhancement 5. Use less aggressive bits 6. Do not use drilling solution or oil with light-cured gel products 7. When backfilling gels, be sure to refine the smile line to ensue that when the white or colored gel is applied, the smile line is crisp and clear

Nail Enhancement Maintenance

1. Fill or Backfill - is to apply the enhancement product onto the new growth of nail 2. Fill or Rebalance - To structurally correct the nail to ensure its strength, shape, and durability

Practice Bit Angels

1. Hold bit in center of the nail and move right to left 2. Picking up the bit ad returning it to the right side of the nail, then repeating this step 3. Holding the bit flat to the nail, making contact with the center of the bit 4. Repeat the placement, using the top of the bit on the bottom of the nail 5. Repeat the placements, using the top of the bit on the top (not the cuticle) of the nail

Practice Surface work

1. Hold the bit flat to the nail so the center of the bit makes contact with the nail 2. Start on the right side of the nail and work across to the left side 3. Pick the bit up off the nail and return to the right side of the nail to begin again 4. when you are mastered this, try going back and forth. Remember to pick the bit up off the nail occasionally so that you do not create heat. 5. Practice using the correct angels for the bottom, center and cuticle areas

Electric Filing for Pedicures

1. Pedicure bits - Can all be used to shorten toenails and reduce thick areas of the skin or callusing. 2. Sanding bands or sleeves - Are not recommended, because the dust is small and remains airborne long after 3. Pedicure bits can be used with various types of exfoliating or callus reduction cream and lotions, but these can clog the surface of the bit quickly 4. Apply callus reduction cream or spray to the thickened area's of the foot and rinse and scrub before using any bits. And make sure feet are fully dry before filing 5. Keep multiple bits 6. Use your pedicure bit in one direction to reduce callus 70-80% 7. Pedicure bits can be used anywhere on the foot where there is a callus 8. Use care not to remove too much callus 9. Avoid applying too much pressure when using pedicure bits

Electric filing training

1. Private classes by indépendant educators 2. Workshops 3. Trade shows 4. Industry manufactures

Hand Balancing/ Fulcrum Finger

1. Sit up straight with feet flat on floor 2. Hold your hand piece like a pencil, for comfort and control 3. Place forearms on table to make hands are stable 4. Use a firm steady grip 5. Balance your hands by using the pinky finger as the fulcrum finger

Solutions to Avoid Microshattering

1. Slower speed 2. Use proper filing techniques 3. Keep the bit parallel to the table during filing 4 .Use correct application techniques 5. Make sure the bit is not bent 6. Use a finer grit bit 7. Use quality electric files according to manufacture's instructions

Machine Features

1. Some left handed technicians use their machines in reverse 2. Chuck. Most hand pieces have a twist-lock chuck and others have a pin or key that must be put into a hole while using a wrench to open the chuck to replace and remove a bit. Also one where you simple push the bit in and pull it out. 3. Foot pedals : * on/off-the foot pedal just use your hand to adjust the speed * Variable speed- the pedal works like the accelerator in a car. As you press down, the machine speed increases; as you reduce pressure, it decreases. You set the maximum speed on the box. This comes in handy for not going to fast

Important things to remember

1. Use correct bit angels. To always keep the bit flat and parallel with the nail you are working on to avoid damage. Use a downward angel for the bottom of the nail, flat to the nail in the center and slightly angled up at the top go the nail 2. Avoid rings of fire which are caused by holding flat-tipped bits at the wrong angel- specially at the cuticle areas 3. Choose correct speed. If the bit grabs and wraps around the finger, your filing pressure is incorrect. If the speed of the electric file dogs down, the speed is too low

Practice cuticle work

1. Using a medium silicone bit on a low speed, gently remove non-living tissue from the nail plate moving back and forth slowly from left to right 2. Place the bit at the cuticle area, holding the bit flat so that at least 50% of theft is making contact with the nail 3. Watch where dust appears on the bit so you know where the bit is making contact. If they white is only on the very front edge of the bit, drop the back of the bit down until the white accumulates evenly on the surface of the bit. 4. Watch from the sideview to make sure your belting the product at the correct angel to be almost flush with the natural nail

French Fill bits

A French fill bit was designed to use sideways to carve a V into the smile line. Made in diamond style only and comes in many sizes

Concentric Bits

A balanced bit that does not wobble or vibrate; The shank is centered on the head of the bit

Bits

A tool that is inserted into the handpick of the electric file

High-Shine Buffing

After filing to a smooth finish, nail enhancements can be shined with a buffing bit and buffing cream. Lift the bit frequently and don't apply too much pressure. If your buffing does not produce a high gloss, then you did not file the nails smooth enough before buffing

Flutes

Angled groove cut into the surface of carbide and Swiss carbide bits

Diamonds bits

Are made from both natural and synthetic diamonds particles that are adhered to the metal surface of the bit. They chip the surface of product and use in a back-and-forth motion. Grits range from extra fine to extra coarse. Most commonly used grit is medium

Carbide Bits

Are made of carbide metal and come in different shapes, sizes and grits. The surface of the bit had grooves which are called flutes, which shave the surface of the product as they file, which reduces dust. The wider the space between flutes, the coarser the bit, and, the closer the flutes, the finer the bit. Carbides sometimes have coatings applied to enhance filing and are cross-cut so that they can be used in a back-and-forth filing motion rather than in just one direction. Specialty carbide bit can be used to remove gel polish from enhancement products as well as to prep product for maintenance services

Mandrels

Are metal or rubber bits that are inserted into the hand piece. Sanding and arbor bands are slipped over the mandrels

Microshattering

Artificial enhancement products bond particles but leave tiny gaps of air between them. This can break down the product and weaken the enhancement

Shaping C-Curves

Barrel-shaped or tapered bits, in any size, are best to use under the free edge to refine c-cures. Choose the size of the bit depending on the size of the underside of the C-curve you are refining

Natural: Chamois, Cotton, and Goat Hair Bits

Chamois, cotton, and goat hair bits can be used to apply buffing cream and to buff natural nails and enhance products to a high-gloss finish. Chamois re available in natural, synthetic or leather. Goat hair bits are great for removing dust or chrome powders from the skin around the nail after gel sealers are applied and cured

Backfill barrel bits

Come in different sizes : one-week, two-week, half barrel, and French fill bit they all can perform the same task but up to you on which one to use

Silicone Bits

Feel a bit like pencil erasers, grits ranging from coarse to fine. Just slightly skim the surface to remove excess nonliving cuticle or to shine natural and artificial nails. Medium grit is best used on natural nails

Finishing

Graduating grits is the key to finishing nails without leaving scratches. From coarse to finer, as with handheld abrasives, and remove the dust each time, in-between changing bits as you graduate. These will keep you from scratching the surface and give a smoother finish

Too low speed

If your hand piece slows down or stops rotating when you apply pressure, you are working at too low of a speed

Swiss Carbide Bits

Made in Switzerland and usually have rounded ends for safety. Excellent for beginners because of the rounded ends reduce the chains of cutting the skin. Are crosscut, can be used in a back-and-forth motion and in forward and reverse, and give a vary smooth filing result

Buffing Creams

Most creams come with a pumice and can be used with any style filing bit. apply the buffing cream to the nail and rub it in before you use the buffing bit. If you don't rub it in it will fly off the nail when spinning. You can also apply cream to the bit first

Examine and Mark the Dial

Most electric files do not have an RPM chart on the variable speed dial. You may want to mark the dial. For a 0 to 35,000 RPM machine, dissect your dial for slow, medium and fast speeds

Natural Nail Work

Natural nail rubber synthetic bit to prep the nail plate by pushing gently toward the cuticle.

Removing lifting product

Never remove loose or lifting products with nippers. This causes damage to the nail plate by lifting. There are several bits that could help remove this safely when used at a safe angle

Rings of Fire

Red marks cut into the nail by filing product with the front edge of the bit at an incorrect angle.

Maintenance service for a two-color French manicure

Reduce the entire nail and apply a new layer of white product at the tip; others prefer to thin the product at the growth area and carve a new smile line at the free edge. This is so it remains thin at the tip and cuticle areas. This provides strength in the center of the nail. Remove 75% of the product at an angel.

Prepper Bits

Similar to a tapered barrel bit but slightly smaller. Comes in various grits and recommended use a fine grit on natural nail to prep the cuticle area for nail enhancement

Jewelry And Specialty Bits

Slender carbide bit configured o drill a hole into the free edge of the nail enhancement to attach nail jewelry. Only use jewelry bits on the extended free edge of the nail and never over the nail bed.

maintenance

Term used for nail enhancement service two or more weeks after the last service; also called a fill or rebalance

Grit

The number of abrasive particles per square inch on a hand file or buffer : the higher the number, the smaller the particles and the finer the grit

revolutions per minute (RPM)

The number of times a bit turns in a complete circle in one minute. Machines vary in RPM capacity, between 0 and 35,000. Working in the middle range of its capacity prolongs the working life of the motor. Electric files very between 5,000 to 35,000 RPMs but some machines stop at 20,000

Torque

The power of a machine

Sanding & Arbor Bands

These are one-use-only paper bits that slip onto a mandrel. Made of abrasive paper and generally used for shortening and shaping the top surface of the nails or removing a gel sealant from enhancement products. Dust particles from arbor bands are vary small, enter your breathing zone, and stay airborne longer than heavier particles. Use a dust extractor system

Tapered Barrel Bits

This short, cone-shaped fine bit is designed with a flat top. Can be used to shape the top surface of the nail enhancement on small nails at a flat angle and at the cuticle and sidewalls. Also gently prep the cuticle area product for a fill

Microshattering

Tiny cracks in nail enhancements as they age with wear and become brittle; can also be caused by aggressive filing with or without an electric file.

Hard Gels

To remove hard gels these bits should be used : diamond bits (medium grit), Carbide bits (medium or fine grit), and Swiss carbide bits (coarse; most have a blue band)

Repairing Cracks

Use a flat-tipped barrel, backfill bit, or bullet bit and place it sideways into the crack. Slowly bevel a trench with the body of the bit, exposing the crack so that new product can fill in the groove and reinforce that area

Maintenance service

Use a medium bit to smooth old product in the growth area of the nail. keep the bit parallel to the nail and reduce the product down to the natural nail without touching the nail itself. Use a bit with a round-tipped safety edge for this process.

Solutions to reduce dust

Use carbide or Swiss carbide bits : These shave heavier particle of product and direct them down toward the table 2. use dust extracting device 3. ..

Efiles

Used in salons are known as micrometer machines, because the motor is located in the hand piece

Shortening the nails

Using a medium or course barrel bit, hold the bit to the tip of the nail at a 90 degree angle, making sure you have a firm grip. Use the fast RPM and quickly move back and forth from left to right while pushing in toward the nail on the free edge

Cuticle work

Using a medium silicone bit on a low speed, gently remove nonliving tissue from the nail plate moving back and forth slowly from left to right. Never use a metal bit on the natural nail

Pedicure Bits

Usually cone-shaped and made of diamond or sapphire material. They work best for smoothing and contouring dry, callused skin. Some have hollow centers to ensure they do not heat up too quickly. Also can use along the sides of toenails on callused skin. Used on a slow or medium speed. Used carefully in one direction.

Shaping the Top Surface

You may use a variety of bit - barrel bit, sanders, or a tapered barrel - to shape the top surface of nail products. Place flat on the nail and go back and forth. Keep repeating. Angel the bit so the bottom of the bit touches the bottom of the nail and the center of the bit touches with center of the nail. Angel the clients finger down at the free edge to bevel product in front of the growth area. Never angle the front of the bit down toward the cuticle area this creates cutting edge and is likely to cause damage to the natural nail.

Buffing Oils

can enhance your finish work by reducing heat and holding dust on the surface of the bit. Use buffing oils sparingly, as they can seep up the neck of the bit into the handpick and cause damage. Rub oil into the nails. After the buffing is complete, it is important to remove all the oil before polishing or using UV / LED gel sealants for better adhesion

cumulative trauma disorders

is caused by using a hand file or repeat of motion over and over