Tomatoes

Oblate

flattened at the poles. Many of the larger types of the shaped tomato have irregularities, creasing, and an overall individuality of form ( which to some can veer towards ugliness) that many people associate with the classic shapes of some of the older heirloom. Range from 1-2 ounces to 3 pounds or more.

Pear

Pear shaped.

"Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad"

- Miles Kingston

Globe

Perfectly round shaped. Range from the pea sized to that of a softball or grapefruit. From a fraction of an ounce to 2-3 pounds.

Watering

A tomato fruit is 95 percent water, so tomatoes need lots of water to grow and develop fruit. They should receive 1 to 2 inches of water a week. If this amount is not received as rainfall, then supplemental irrigation is necessary.Soak the soil thoroughly when watering. Frequent light waterings will encourage a weak root system. Mulching with straw, clean hay, compost, paper or plastic will reduce soil water evaporation. Plants growing in small containers may need daily waterings.

Fertilizing

Add a complete garden fertilizer at the time the soil is prepared. For tomatoes, use a fertilizer low in nitrogen (N), high in phosphorous (P) and medium to high in potassium (K). Among the best analyses for tomatoes are 8-32-16 and 6-24-24. Avoid using ammonia fertilizers such as urea or ammonium nitrate for tomato fertilization. Use a maintenance rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet after the proper fertility level has been developed from previous soil tests and fertilizations. If only 5-10-5, 5-10-10 or similar analyses are available, apply 2 pounds per 100 square feet. All fertilizer should be worked well into the top 6 inches of soil. Additional information on soil preparation and fertilization can be found in MU Extension publication G6950, Steps in Fertilizing Garden Soil: Vegetables and Annual Flowers.

START TOMATOES FROM SEED

As stated above, due to the long growing season for a warm-weather crop, many gardeners purchase starter tomato plants from a nursery. However, tomatoes can be direct-sown in the garden if the soil is at least 55°F. Note that 70°F soil is optimum for maximum germination within 5 days. Be certain that your grown season is long enough to bring the plants to maturity. See your first fall frost date. Or, you can plant tomatoes by seed indoors for a head start. Sow seeds a ½ inch deep in small trays 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date. Harden off your own seedlings for a week before transplanting them in the ground. Set them outdoors in the shade for a few hours on the first day. Gradually increase this time each day to include some direct sunlight. Learn more about hardening off seedlings.

Catfacing

Badly formed tomatoes on the blossom end, usually rough with scar tissue. Cold weather at time of blossom set intensifies the deformities. Catfacing is usually most common in the large-fruited beefsteak-type tomatoes.

Flea beetles

Black or brown jumping bugs 1/16 inch long that attack young transplants and leave them looking as if they have been shot full of small holes.

Tomato Diseases and Problems

Blossom-End Rot causes the bottom side of the tomato to develop dark, sunken spots, due to a calcium imbalance. See the link for remedies and prevention. Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes leaves to drop; it's common after rainfall or in humidity. It starts with dark, concentric spots (brown to black), about ½-inch in diameter on the lower leaves and stems. If you catch it early and destroy infected leaves, you plant may survive. Late Blight is a fungal disease that causes grey, moldy spots on leaves and fruit which later turn brown. The disease is spread and supported by persistent damp weather. See our blog on "Avoid Blight With the Right Tomato." Mosaic Virus creates distorted leaves and causes young growth to be narrow and twisted, and the leaves become mottled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don't put them in your compost pile). Fusarium Wilt starts with yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant and moves up the plant as the fungus spreads. Unfortunately, once this disease strikes, the plant needs to be destroyed. Powdery Mildew is a fungal disease which leaves white spots or a dusting of white on the leaves. It can be managed. See the link to learn more. Cracking: When fruit growth is too rapid, the skin will crack. This usually occurs due to uneven watering or uneven moisture from weather conditions (very rainy periods mixed with dry periods). Keep moisture levels constant with consistent watering and mulching.

Stink bugs

Brown, green or black shield-shaped bugs that give off a foul odor. They suck juices from the plant and cause hard whitish spots just under the skin of the fruit. Sprays are effective.

Stalk borer

Creamy-white to light purple larvae that eat tunnels in the stem, causing the plant to wither and die. Remove and destroy weeds where the insect may breed. Locate hole in stem where the borer entered, split stem lengthwise above the hole, and kill the borer. Bind the split stem, and keep the plant well watered. Spray to prevent further infestations.

Pruning

Determinate and semideterminate varieties typically do not require pruning. However, large-vine (indeterminate) varieties benefit from the removal of some of their axillary or side shoots, or from being topped to prevent plants from becoming too bushy and tall. When plants are grown in cages, less pruning is required. Break out only enough shoots to allow good light and air movement through the cage.

Determinate

Determinate tomatoes, better known as "bush" varieties grow 2 to 3 feet tall. These varieties tend to provide numerous ripe tomatoes at one time, do not put on much leaf growth after setting fruit, and tend to fruit for a (relatively) brief period of time. They are generally productive earlier than the vining varieties, and not in the latter part of the growing season. Determinate tomatoes do not require staking or caging. These plants are idea for containers and small spaces. Most paste tomatoes are determine (which works well for making sauce and canning).

Chemical injury

Drift from 2,4-D and similar chemicals commonly used on lawns and in fields may cause distorted leaves, twisted stems, dropping of flowers and fruit abnormalities. The drift may originate half a mile or more away. Sprayers that have been used for herbicide and then used for disease and insect control on tomatoes may also be a source of contamination.

Producing tomato plants

Earliness of production and quantity of fruit produced may be influenced by quality of the plant at the time it is set in the garden. The ideal tomato plant should be 8 to 10 inches tall and dark green with a stocky stem and a well-developed, healthy root system. Producing a transplant of this size usually takes three to five weeks. A family interested in having only fresh fruit should plant three to five plants per person. If enough fruit is wanted for processing, then five to 10 plants per person should be planted. To get best results with only a few plants and minimal trouble, purchase plants from a local greenhouse or nursery at the proper planting time. If a fairly large number of plants is needed, the plants may be started from seeds in a good, porous seeding mix. When seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual containers or bedding plant packs for stocky development. Give them plenty of light. If kept in the house, expose the plants to a south window, and rotate them regularly to give uniform growth. Daily temperatures should be kept below 80 degrees F but not lower than 50 degrees F.

WIT & WISDOM

Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil. In 1781, there is record of Thomas Jefferson—an experimental farmer—raising tomatoes for his guests. The tomato plant is native to South America, but it was not commonly cultivated in the United States until 1835. In 1522, Spanish explorers returned home from the New World with tomatoes. Many people believed that the fruits were poisonous, which isn't too far of a leap: Tomatoes are in the same family (Solanaceae) as deadly nightshade (Atropa belladonna). Potatoes and eggplants are also part of this family. In the 19th century, the tomato was called "The Apple of Paradise" in Germany and "The Apple of Love" in France. People have argued for quite a long time about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables!

Deep Globe

Egg or oval shaped. Start at an ounce and reach half a pound, larger in rare cases.

Flower drop

Especially noticeable on early flowers when the grower is anxious for fruit to set for an early harvest. The problem occurs when night temperatures are lower than 55 degrees F, when day temperatures are higher than 95 degrees F, or when night temperatures remain above 75 degrees F. Hot drying winds may intensify the problem. Varieties also will differ in their temperature response. Fruit-setting hormones may be used to help set fruit early in the season when the weather is cool. The problem usually disappears and fruits set normally after the weather improves.

Cutworms

Fat gray, brown or black worms up to 1-1/4 inches long. They cut off plants close to the soil surface. They are most destructive early in the season. Use a wax paper collar as described under "Setting out plants."

Side-dressing

Fertilizer applied at the time of planting will not supply enough nutrients for the entire season. Too much nitrogen in the beginning results in lush vegetative growth and poor fruit set. Apply the first side-dressing when the first fruits are about one-third grown. Apply 0.5 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row. This is equivalent to 5 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer. Calcium nitrate is an excellent fertilizer to apply as a side-dress. About 3.5 pounds of calcium nitrate can be side-dressed per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer carefully into the top inch of soil. Don't get fertilizer on the foliage. Apply the second side-dressing two weeks after picking the first ripe fruit. Make a third application a month later. Water-in the nitrogen if rain is unlikely.

Harvesting

For optimal flavor, tomato fruits should be allowed to ripen fully on the vine but harvested before they begin to soften. Tomato color and flavor are optimal when average daily temperatures are about 75 degrees F. High temperatures - greater than 92 degrees F - during ripening reduce fruit flavor, texture and color. Fruit exposed to high temperatures develops internal white tissue and yellow color on the fruit surface. Thus, it is important to have good vine growth, which partially shades the fruit from intense sunlight. Do not refrigerate tomatoes after harvest. Flavor and quality are preserved by holding the fruit at room temperature. Mature green fruits can be harvested in the fall and held for later use. Select fruits free of disease, wrap them in paper and store them at about 60 to 65 degrees F. They will ripen slowly and provide good tomatoes for several weeks.

Cracking

Fruit cracking varies by the variety. Cracking is usually a problem when soil moisture fluctuates. Tomatoes exposed directly to sunlight are highly susceptible to cracking. Select varieties that are crack-resistant, and keep them adequately watered at all times. Soil drying followed by watering encourages cracking.

Tomato fruitworm

Green, brown or pink worm that eats holes in fruit and buds. Sprays during June help control this insect. Make several applications.

Sunscald, poor color

High temperatures retard the development of good color. Fruits exposed to high temperatures will scald and develop uneven color. Good foliage cover helps prevent sunscald.

Pruning, pinching, staking

If growing vining tomatoes, pinch off suckers (new, tiny stems and leaves between branches and the main stem). This aids air circulation and allows more sunlight into the middle of the plant. Gently tie the stems to stakes with rags, nylon stockings, twine, or soft string. As a plant grows, trim the lower leaves from the bottom 12 inches of the stem.

No flowers, no fruit?

If no flowers form, plants may not be getting enough sun or water (too little can stop flowering). Flower drop-off could be due to high daytime temperatures (over 90°F). Provide shade during the hottest part of the day by using row covers or shade cloth. If plants produce a lot of flowers but no fruit, the cause might be inadequate light, too little water or inconsistent watering, too cold or hot temperatures (above 75°F at night/90°F during the day), or not enough pollinators (bees). Low humidity can also affect pollination; the ideal is 40 to 70 percent. If humidity is low, mist the plant to help pollen to stick.

Indeterminate

Indeterminate tomatoes, better known as "vining" varieties produce the largest types of mid- to late-season slicing tomatoes all summer and until the first frost. Because indeterminates experience more leaf growth, their production tends to be spread more evenly throughout the season. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking. They are ideal in large gardeners. Most beefsteak and cherry tomatoes are indeterminate.

Cloudy spots

Irregular whitish spots just under the skin. This is the result of stink bugs feeding on the fruit at some stage in its development.

Hornworms

Large green worms up to 4 inches long that eat foliage and fruit. Handpick the worms if only a few; sprays can be used for large infestations.

Leaf miners

Larvae that make long, slender white tunnels in the leaves. Start sprays early.

HOW TO HARVEST TOMATOES

Leave tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. Harvest tomatoes when they are firm and very red in color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow remaining around the stem. Harvest tomatoes of other colors (orange, yellow, purple, or another rainbow shade) when they turn the correct color. If temperatures start to drop and your tomatoes aren't ripening, use one of these methods:Pull up the entire plant, brush off dirt, remove foliage, and hang the plant upside down in a basement or garage.Place mature, pale green tomatoes stem up, in a paper bag and loosely seal it. Or wrap them in newspaper and place in a cardboard box. Store in a cool (55°F to 70°F), dark place. Cooler temperatures slow ripening; warmth speeds it. Check weekly and remove soft, spotted, diseased, or ripe fruit. Never place tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen; they may rot before they are ripe!

Frying pepper

Long and slender shaped. Start at an ounce and reach half a pound, larger in rare cases.

Cultivating and controlling weeds

Many weeds carry diseases that can seriously affect tomato plants when transmitted by insects or man. Weeds also may harbor harmful insects and compete with tomato plants for soil moisture and nutrients. Use mulches to avoid a lot of hoeing and hand-weeding. Hay, straw, grass clippings, paper, compost or plastic can be used as mulches for tomatoes. Black plastic warms the soil and is very beneficial for early plantings. Some growers have used red plastic mulch with success. Apply organic materials 2 to 4 inches thick to prevent weeds from developing.

Leaf roll

Most common on plants that have been pruned and on early-season varieties. Older and lower leaves of some tomato varieties may roll and become stiff and leathery. It is not a disease and is most common on plants that are trained and pruned. This condition does not affect fruiting.

HOW TO STORE TOMATOES

Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste. To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw. Never refrigerate fresh garden tomatoes. Doing so spoils the flavor and texture that give them that garden tomato taste. To freeze, core fresh and unblemished tomatoes and place them whole in freezer bags or containers. Seal, label, and freeze. The skins will slip off when they thaw.

Walnut toxicity

Plants growing near black walnut trees may wilt and die. Avoid growing tomatoes within 50 feet of these trees or where they may come into contact with walnut roots.

Planting distances

Proper spacing and staking are essential for healthy plants and good fruit production. Planting distance depends on the type of tomato grown. Ideal spacing for home garden tomatoes is generally 24 to 36 inches between plants. Planting closer than 24 inches reduces air circulation around the plants and can trigger disease outbreaks. Large-vine tomatoes should be spaced 36 inches apart. Rows should be 4 to 5 feet apart.

Paste Tomato

Roma, San Marzano, Big Mama, Jersey Giant, Amish Paste, and miniature Juliet

Planting

Select a site with full sun and, ideally, a space where tomatoes (and members of their family, especially eggplants, peppers, and potatoes) have not grown in the previous couple of years. See tips on crop rotation. Dig soil to about 1 foot deep and mix in aged manure and/or compost. Give it two weeks to break down before planting.

Setting out plants

Set tomatoes in the garden when the weather has warmed and soil temperatures are above 60 degrees F. Temperatures below 50 degrees F impair tomato growth. In southern Missouri, plant tomatoes outside from April 20 to May 15. In central Missouri, May 5 to 20 is the approximate planting time, and in northern Missouri and the Ozark area, planting from May 10 to 20 is usually best. In all areas, plants may be set out several days to a week earlier if gardeners are willing to protect them from a possible frost. Before planting tomatoes, remove all clay pots, plastic pots or wood bands from the soil ball. Peat pots may remain. Set plants a little deeper than they were originally growing so lower leaves are near the ground. If only "leggy" plants are available, plant them at about a 30-degree angle in a trench long enough to leave only the top 5 or 6 inches of the plant exposed. Roots will develop along the buried portion of the stem. If the plant is in a peat pot, make sure the entire pot is covered, because exposed portions of the pot will act as a wick and rapidly dry the root ball. Apply 1 cup of a fertilizer solution around the roots after placing the plant in the hole. Use a completely soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus, such as 10-52-17 or 15-30-15, at the rate of 2 level tablespoons per gallon of water. Guard the plant base from cutworms with a wax paper collar about 3 inches high (2 inches above the ground and 1 inch below).

Heart-shaped

Shaped like a heart. Half a pound to 2 pounds or more.

Aphids

Small, pear-shaped insects that congregate on the top growth or undersides of leaves. Aphids damage tomatoes by sucking plant sap and excreting a sticky substance on the foliage and fruit, making the fruit unattractive. Besides rain, insecticidal soaps and certain chemicals, controls include removing weeds, which may serve as hosts for aphids.

Staking

Staking improves marketable yield, fruit set and fruit quality and also makes harvesting easier. Staked plants are less likely than unstaked plants to get diseases. Stakes can be made from a 6 foot long, 1 x 2-inch piece of wood, pointed at one end. Place it firmly into the ground about 4 inches from the plant at time of transplanting. Use soft cord for tying plants to the stake, and allow at least half an inch of slack for stem enlargement. Many gardeners prefer to support tomato plants in cylindrical wire cages. Mesh should be wide enough for a person's hand to fit through to pick fruits. This method saves time required for staking, pruning and tying.

Tomatoe Size and use

Tiny or small rd are called cocktail, grape, cluster, or cherry tomatoes. Wonderful for salads, omelets, frittatas, kebabs, or pizza toppings. Tomatoes of a few ounces are known as salad, breakfast or grilling tomatoes. Tomatoes that work well on a sandwich whether half pound or multi-pounders are called slicing tomatoes. Since late 1800's Medium round sized tomatoes are preferred for canning. Prior to that the very large irregular varieties were preferred. The meaty, elongated, slender tomatoes often consisting of dense flesh with less juice are favored for sauces or pastes and are called paste tomatoes. The large tomatoes when sliced parallel to the blossom and stem ends, sow a dense meaty flesh with small seed filled cavities, are called beefsteak tomatoes.

Spider mite

Tiny tannish mite, barely visible to the naked eye, that causes many small yellow specks and fine webs. Forceful water sprays, insecticidal soaps or chemical sprays may be used for control.

Tomato Pests

Tomato cutworm (early in the season). Indicated by a chewed stem Aphids will cause yellow curling leaves and white sticky residue Flea Beetles cause holes in leaves Tomato Hornworm and tobacco hornworm cause defoliation Whiteflies indicated by sticky white residue. Leaf miners are indicated by tunnel or zigzag patterns on leaves Corn earworms (aka tomato fruitworms), stink bugs, and slugs cause holes in fruit

Preparing soil for planting

Tomato plants grow well in many types of soil. Work the soil only when it is dry enough so it will not stick to tools. Improve garden soil by adding organic matter such as peat moss, leaf mold, well-rotted manure or compost. Tomatoes grow best in nearly neutral soil with pH of 6.5 to 7.0. If soil test results indicate the need for lime, add it in late fall or early spring.

Diseases

Tomatoes are attacked by bacterial speck and spot, early blight, fusarium wilt, anthracnose, septoria leaf spot, tobacco mosaic virus, curly top virus and verticillium wilt.

PESTS/DISEASES

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests. To avoid overpopulation of insect pests, follow these basic tips: Monitor tomato plants daily, checking under leaves, checking fruit, and checking near the soil. To dislodge many pests like aphids, spray plants with with a good jet stream from the hose. Handpick insects bigger insects like tomato hornworm with gloves on, dropping into a bucket of soapy water. Apply insecticidal soap directly to the insect on the plant; this works for smaller pests such as aphids and spider mites. Apply horticultural oils or sprays diluted in water. Neem oil sprays block an insect's air holes. If you choose as a last resort to use insecticides like Sevin, keep in mind that you may be killing beneficial insects as well.

Selecting growing area

Tomatoes grow best when they receive full sunshine. Plant them away from trees and buildings to get highest yield. A tomato plant needs a lot of water, so arrange for easy watering. Select a well-drained area because poor soil aeration leads to root loss and physiological problems such as blossom end rot.

GROWING TOMATOES IN CONTAINERS

Use a large pot or container (at least 20 inches in diameter) with drainage holes in the bottom. Use loose, well-draining soil (e.g., at least 12 inches of a good "potting mix" with added organic material). A tray of some sort should be placed under the pot to catch any excess water that drains out the bottom. Choose bush or dwarf varieties; many cherry tomatoes grow well in pots. Taller varieties may need to be staked. Plant one tomato plant per pot and give each at least 6 hours of sun per day. Keep soil moist. Containers will dry out more quickly than garden soil, so check daily and provide extra water during heat waves.

Blossom end rot

Very common problem on homegrown tomatoes. It appears as a depressed brownish, rather dry rot the size of a dime to a half dollar on the blossom end of the fruit. It is caused by a calcium deficiency coupled with wide fluctuations in available moisture. Training and pruning may increase blossom end rot. Remove the affected fruit so other fruits on the plant will develop normally, and keep the plants well watered. Provide adequate amounts of water along with good soil drainage. Mulch to maintain a more uniform moisture supply. Avoid cultivating, or hoeing, near the roots of tomato plants. Do not use ammonia fertilizers.

TOMATO PLANT CARE Watering

Water in the early morning so that plants have sufficient moisture to make it through a hot day.Water generously the first few days that the tomato seedlings or transplants are in the ground. Then water with about 2 inches (about 1.2 gallons) per square foot per week during the growing season. Deep watering encourages a strong root system. Avoid overhead watering and afternoon watering. Water at the base/soil level of a plant to avoid splashing water on the leaves (which invites disease). Mulch 5 weeks after transplanting to retain moisture, keep soil from splashing the lower leaves, and control weeds. Apply 2 to 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw, hay, or bark chips. To help tomatoes through periods of drought, find some flat rocks and place one next to each plant. The rocks prevent water from evaporating from the soil.

Fertilizing

You should have already worked compost into the soil before planting, and added some bonemeal to the planting hole when transplanting. Side-dress plants, applying liquid seaweed or fish emulsion or an organic fertilizer every 2 weeks, starting when tomatoes are about 1 inch in diameter (some folks say "golf ball-size"). If you are using an organic granular formula such as Epson Tomato-Tone (4-7-10 or 3-4-6), pull mulch back a few inches and scratch 2 to 3 tablespoons fertilizer around the drip line of the plant. Water in, and replace mulch. Continue fertilizing tomatoes about every 3 to 4 weeks until frost. Note: Avoid fast-release fertilizers and avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. As stated, too much nitrogen will result in lush foliage but few flowers and little or no fruit.