AMD 354 - Final Exam

The first synthetic coal tar dyes were created in:

1856

What is the name of the decorative collar below?

A conch

A spencer is

A garment for both men and women

Which of the following costume items were associated with supporters of the French Revolution?

All of the above; i.e. bonnet rouge, carmagnole, trousers, use of red white and blue

Among the types of suit coats and/or jackets that men might wear during the Crinoline Period were:

All of the above; i.e. frock coats, dress coats, sack jackets

Which of the following would have been working class clothing during the 18th century

All of the above; i.e. smocks, gowns, wigs

During the reign or which monarch was the skirt below worn?

Queen Elizabeth I; the skirt is a wheel farthingale

Which garment is called a conch?

Sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over theshoulders, with a high, standing collar behind the head.

True or False: Bases were prevalent in civilian dress well into the 17th century.

False

True or False: By the Empire Period boys under the age of four or five were no longer being dressed like little girls.

False

True or False: Drawers continued to only be worn by the working class.

False

True or False: During the Romantic period, dresses were worn all-day with no changes due to activities for which they were intended.

False

True or False: If you were a young man of the provinces of England could choose between only two occupations in related to clothing and fashion: clothiers and cordwainers.

False

True or False: In the 17th century paintings by infamous painters, such as Peter Paul Rubens, provide the most accurate depiction of costume.

False

True or False: The jacket style below has been worn since the end of the French Revolution (pic of man wearing a top hat standing next to a woman wearing a bonnet)

False

True or False: the wheel farthingale, the french farthingale, and the drum farthingale are all exactly the same thing but with different names.

False

True or False: Although women and men both worked as tailors, it was believed that women were ignorant of the variety of stitches and techniques of tailoring.

True

True or False: As indicated in the Global Connections of Chapter 7, The Middle Eastern turban served as inspiration for Euro-American dress for centuries.

True

True or False: Before the Empire Period, English and American women did not generally wear under drawers.

True

True or False: Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after 1675, at which time women tailors or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men.

True

True or False: During the Italian Renaissance, gussets were used to permit ease of movement in men's shirts.

True

True or False: Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the Orient during the Renaissance is to be seen in the popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women in the 15th century

True

True or False: Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.

True

True or False: In general, styles in the United States in the Empire Period paralleled those of Europe.

True

True or False: Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another.

True

True or False: Little boys wore Eton suits, tunic suits, as well as the skeleton suit in the Romantic period.

True

True or False: One hairstyle for women during the Empire Period was based on the haircut given to women before they were executed during the French Revolution.

True

True or False: The Puritans who settled in Massachusetts in the 1600s wore restrained and simple styles, but did not wear clothing that was radically different in other respects from the clothing of other English people of their time.

True

True or False: The dress of the men below includes examples of these garments: waist coat, top hat, trousers, mitts, and frock coat. (two men and one boy standing together)

True

True or False: The imbecile or idiot sleeves were extremely full from shoulder to wrist where they gathered into a fitted cuff.

True

True or False: When possible, slaves decorated their clothing items and tried to personalize them. Some even tried to conform to fashionable looks.

True

A ferroniere was

a chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located at the center of the forehead

The word camicia in Italian refers to

a man's shirt or a woman's chemise

What did Americans call the hat below?

derby

Which of the following were NOT characteristics of fashionable dress in the first part of the Romantic Period (up to 1838)?

dress lengths reaching to the floor

Round gowns are defined as

dresses that do not open at the front to show a petticoat

Dresses worn over the garment below were likely to have which of these features?

engageants & eschelles

Primary sources of information about costume during the 17th century include all of the following EXCEPT:

fashion plates

King Louis XIV was well known for this aspect of dress:

high heels with a red sole and heel

The word "chopines" means

high, platform-soled shoes

The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of:

improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns

The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume

in the 15th century

Which of the following events that influenced the mass production of clothing took place in the period just before the American Civil War?

invention of the sewing machine

Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because

it gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus' voyage to the New World

The banyan shown in the Global Connections feature of Chapter 10 represents a true cross cultural item as

it was worn in Holland, made of silk from China, derived from a style originating in the Middle East

Which garment is called a farthingale?

An hourglass-like silhouette, with a closely-fitted bodice, narrow waist, and skirt shaped like an inverted cone and wide sleeves.

What is the name of the hat shown below?

Bicorne

Italian influences in styles were brought to France by

Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king

The man who is considered to be the founder of the Parisian haute couture was

Charles Worth

Italian styles for men in the 16th century were very much influenced by

French and Spanish Styles

Which of the following statements about 18th century clothing terminology in England is true?

Full dress was the most formal evening dress.

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that

His uncle was old-fashioned.

Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?

Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments.

The mistress of King Louis XV of France who was influential not only in politics, but especially in the fine and decorative arts was

Madame Pompadour

The sleeve that was tied at intervals with ribbons was called

Marie sleeve

The political preferences of the two factions in the English Civil War of the 1600s were reflected in their dress, the differences being:

The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple, unadorned clothing in somber colors.

The garibaldi shirt was

a red shirt worn by women in the 1860s and named after an Italian general

A Canezou refers to:

a variety of accessories for women

Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were

all of the above

Among the influences that the Romantic movement in the arts had on costume was

all of the above

Sources of information about costume of the period from 1820-1840 include

all of the above

The records used by researchers to learn about the clothing of African slaves in the antebellum south include

all of the above

Which of the following statements about the Bloomer costume is true?

all of the above

Dresses of the Empire period were likely:

all of the above; i.e. made of soft lightweight fabrics, made in white or pastel colors, have the waistline placement well above the anatomical waistline

The folding fan, as indicated in the Global Connections of Chapter 8, served the following purposes:

as an important and prestigious accessory, as a means of communication, and as a weapon

In France, large circular capes that hung over the shoulder and were fastened by a string or chain under the collar at the neck were called

balagny

The material used for stuffing trunk hose and doublets to achieve a fashionable silhouette in 16th century England was called

bombast

The style of headcovering depicted below is a:

bonnet

During the 17th century in costume for men, this garment replaces trunkhose:

breeches

The cloth hand woven in India for an important European person shown in the Global Connections feature of Chapter 12 was a:

cashmere shawl

What is the name for the type of trouser shown below? (pic of a man in a top hat with a cane)

knee breeches

The women who wore the most extreme versions of Directoire Style clothing were known as

merveilleuse

The Global Connection feature of Chapter 11 features

mocassins

In 1666 King Charles II of England adopted a new garment to replace current styles that he said he would continue to wear for the rest of his life. Did he actually wear only this style for the rest of his life?

no

The wide, garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called

petticoat breeches & rhinegraves

How might a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing?

purchase used clothing & join a "breeches club" & save enough money over a period of several years

The garment below has characteristic or which one of these dress styles?

robe a la Francaise

Did the decorative collar below have a symbolic function?

scholars have differing opinions

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because

skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century

Examples of Asian and Middle Eastern influences on styles in costume during the 18th century would include

some of the prints and designs in textiles & men's dressing gown styles & mantua-style gowns for women

What is the name of the jacket shown below (pic of a man in a top hat with a cane)

spencer

When the English sang "Yankee Doodle Dandy" who "stuck a feather in his hat and called it 'macaroni'" they were referring to

that Americans' were trying to be fashionable

What century were petticoat breeches & rhinegraves commonly worn?

the 17th Century

According to Aries, the customary dress of for small boys in the 17th century that was worn between the ages of three and six years originated in

the dress of adult men during the Middle Ages

Which of the following styles are thought to have derived from Middle Eastern styles?

the manteau & the vest

The factor that was probably most responsible for the widespread acceptance of the sewing machine was:

the need for uniforms for soldiers in the Civil War

Which of the following were NOT devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?

tweezers to pluck out hair around the forehead so as to have a fashionably high forehead

Name of the skirt worn below:

wheel farthingale

A major change in the fit of stockings came about

when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated

with the Swiss army