Apparel Analysis- Exam 2
Line (Fit)
*Alignment of structural lines of garment with natural lines of body* Example:side seams should hang straight down the center of the side of the body
Smocking
*Decorative stitches* holding fabric in even accordion like pleats -Some extensibility
Gusset
*Diamond shape unit or one or more pieces* Inserted into slashed opening on a larger garment section *Allows freedom of movement when set into fitted sleeve or crotch area* (Can also be circular to provide more mobility example:Dancer costume)
Full fashioned knit
*Full fashioned marks represent increase or decrease in number of stitches* Change in number of stitches allow for shaping
PLM- Product Lifestyle Management
*Manages the entire life cycle* All phases of production process can be monitored From the conception of the idea to the pattern-making to delivery to retail store.
Ease( Fit)
*Refers to the amount of roominess in garment* Difference between the measurements of garment and the measurements of the wearer *This is not optional this is required* basic movement, and basic comfort
Set(Fit)
*Smooth fit without undesirable wrinkles* -Results from garment too large or too small & poor posture -Garment pulls or snags where it does not fit
What happens during the Finishing stage of production ?
*The final steps in production of garment* Adding finishing details, trimming, inspecting, repairing, or reworking any defects -Spot cleaning -Packaging- folded or put on hangers
Godet
*Triangular fabric piece set into seam or slash usually at hem* Produces decorative fullness; used mainly in skirts Creates fuller circumference Enhances lower portion of skirts, pants, etc. Created flounce effect on sheaths or fitted garments
What is important to know about the cutting stage in apparel production?
- Mistakes are expensive and may not be fixable -Manual cutting requires skill, accuracy and strength. -Computer-guided cutting could also be used/ -Knits may be cut with dies(like a cookie cutter thing) to avoid stretching -Pattern pieces are numbered and bundled after cutting
Fit problems result from...
-Careless design and poor construction -Individual characteristics of wearer
What are the uses of linings?
-Conceal raw edges and construction details -Facilitate ease of putting on or taking of garment -Prevent outer fabric from direct contact with body -Provide warmth -Prolong life of garment -Makes garment look smoother and less apt to wrinkle
Shaped seams-Dart equivalents
plus gores and yokes
What must you watch out for during the fabric spreading stage?
-Fabric Flaws Directional patterns or naps( i.e, Plaid or courdoray fabrics) -End of roll -Fabric that must relax before cutting (i.e,knits)
Poor fit leads to...
-Garment seldom or never worm -Garment placed on retailer's markdown rack
Stand (collar)
portion of collar that rises from neckline up the neck
What happens during the Final Audit stage of apparel production?
All aspects are checked(garment, packaging, labeling, and carton marking accuracy. Statistical sampling used to check quality standard( example: systematical sampling .. every 12 percent gets checked) *if quality level is not met; 100 percent inspection is done*
released darts
result in a straight silhouette rather than a fitted one
The 1st sample garment or prototype is made by:
An experienced sewer This is a 3-D prototype * This is to see if the garment is working before production *
Collar
Any band applied to garment neckline Mostly decorative(adds a feature), or can be functional(keeps you warm)
Elastic
Applied elastic stitched directly onto garment to add shape Casings- tunnels or channels in which elastic or drawings are inserted ... This adds more cost because of the additional fabric and extra steps needed
Surplice or wrap bodice front
Asymmetric, Diagonal neckline with an overlap and under lap for garment entry and closure One piece goes over the other and this creates some what of a V-neck
At what stage of the fashion cycle do garments usually sell or have the highest consumer demand?
At the *Peak* stage. The highest point of the curve styles are widely accepted and being worn by the mass market available in many styles and fabric variations
Bateau or Boat
Broad, horizontal shape created with design *Draws your eyes across horizontally*
How do you achieve consistent fit for target market?
By testing on 3-D form= Form fitting Using a fit model- live model
Furnishings
Category for mens shirts, ties, underwear, sleepwear robes and accessories.
Lacing
Similar to drawstring Threaded through openings *Pulled to shape*
Single-pointed dart and double pointed dart
Single pointed (left photo) Double pointed(right)
What are the typical steps in the apparel production cycle?
Evaluation Design Technical Design Sourcing Preproduction Production Distribution Promotion and Sales
Box pleats
Evenly spaced folds Fabric ply doubled over to face away from each other -Depth of box pleat may not equal width of box
Design ease
Extra style fullness added to fitting ease This is *optional* Design ease does not allow the garment to fit all bodies.
Counterfeit
Fakes or copies is the brand name. This hurts our industry(the consumer overall and the retailer) This is bad Example: a fake Michael kors bag sod at the hair store
Vanity Sizing
Sizing based on "what we want" vs. "what we have"
How are men's pants sized
Sizing based on 2 numbers Waist circumference(typically 32 -40 inches) and in-seam (typically from 29-34 inches) example: size 30/32 : denotes 30-inch waist 32-inch inseam *In Seam*- length of seam on inside leg from crotch to hem of pant *Rise*- length from crotch level to waist level
Set-in sleeve
Sleeve is cut as separate pattern then Sewn into shoulder seam and extends around armhole. -resembles a tube MOST COMMON
Stretch Fabrics
Slightly stretch fabric may need shaping method highly stretch fabric does not need shaping method Example Stretch Fabrics: Spandex, lastol, neoprene *The more spandex a garment has the more natural shape*
How are men's shirts sized?
Sport and athletic shirts- S, M, L, XL Short-sleeve shirt dress- Neck circumference Long-sleeve dress shirt- neck circumference and sleeve length (Example- 15-33)
Standard Sizing
Standard table of body measurements updated in 1970. VERY OUTDATED International trade further complicates sizing Language, methods of sizing, measurement systems (e.g., inches vs. centimeters)
Tucks
Stitched fold of fabric -Can be horizontal, vertical or diagonal
True or false. Apparel designs are rarely protected by copyright.
TRUE- textile designs may be easier protected by copyright.
Marker
The arrangement of pattern pieces to achieve most efficient layout. This is done on the computer They are trying to figure out where is the most efficient places they can put the pattern pieces on the fabric
What the difference between a Bataeu/boat and a Crew neck
The bataeu has a wider neck opening, falling on your shoulder blades and not circling around your neck like a crew neck
wet vs drying process
wet processing-using commercial washing machines to rinse sizing out of jeans *more comfy to wear* dry processing- more sustainable "green" method. using less water. *breaks fibers if the fabric to give it a more vintage or worn appearance*
Gathers
Full gathers usually in high price-lines because of added fabric cost *Light weight fabric must be more fully gathered for better appearance thus more cost* Gathers can take the place of darts for fitting to body
Rolled Collars
Full roll- Stand and fall of collar are about equal in size Partial Roll- Less stand (shorter stand) and more fall in collar
Balance(Fit)
Garment is in equilibrium Symmetrical left and right sides) Garment aligned with body parts
What are the 5 elements for fit ?
Grain( fabric grain) Set Line Balance Ease These start at the development stage of the apparel production cycle
Yokes
Horizontal division within a garment Usually at shoulder, waist or midriff yoke is an area of the shirt that receives a good deal of stress from weight and friction of blazer, jacket, or shoulder straps of your bag. a shirt yoke is usually made from two layers of fabric.
Fit
How well garment conforms to the 3D body
PDM- Product Data Management
If you cant afford the PLM you can use this.... Tracks all information about each product -Helps create technical detail -Manages billing of material in pre-production process *Subset of PLM; used more by smaller companies*
Princess seams
Incorporates bust and waist darts in fitted women's wear
Shirring
Incorporates parallel rows of gathers into body of garment Elastic threads can be used, adds stretch and shaping
Grading
Increasing and Decreasing the pattern dimensions to reflect various sizes
Slopers
Individual Pattern pieces Hard folder weight paper made from oak tag patteen iece can be made digital with a digitizer
Children's wear sizing
Infant or baby size - prior to walking Toddlers' size - early walking Short, round figures with undefined waistlines Children's - preschool (age 3 - 6) Taller, slimmer than toddler; waistline undefined Girls - (age 7 - 11) or TWEENS (8 - 12) Bustline undefined and waistline slightly delineated Boys - (age 7 - 17) Developing shoulder and delineated waistline
What are the challenges to fitting people who are considered apart of the special markets?
Infants/Children- bodies are not proportional to adults Children's Plus Size- few choices for girls Pregnant women- garments are generally close fitting today Older Adults- bodies change with age Large-size Adults- range of size variations People with Physical Disabilities- needs clothing that adapts to their physical movement
Underlying fabrics or supporting fabrics are_____ the garment.
Inside Supporting fabrics are usually a sign of quality
What are the stages of the fashion cycle?
Intro-Rise-Peak-Decline-Obsolete The consumer demand changes in each of these cycles.
What are the women's wear sizing categories?
Juniors- short, slender youthful figure Misses- average proportions and height Petites- Under 5'4 with average proportions Tall- Over 5'7 with average proportions Large sizes/ Plus sized- Average height, full, mature figure
Lettered Sizing
Knit and Loose fit styling helps increase popularity of lettered sizing *Prevalent in low-pricing garments* -Eliminates need for precise sizing -More economical to produce fewer sizes Garment length may be designated with letters Example: S=Small.. XL=extra large
Spreading
Laying out multiple plies of uncut fabric prior to cutting out pattern pieces.
Interfacing
Lends body, shape, and reinforcement to limited areas, Used for collars, collar bands, cuffs, buttons and buttonholes, pockets, waistbands, and other small design details. -In tailored coats and jackets the lapels and shoulders are interfaced. *Hidden between garment and facing*
Rise
Length from crotch level to waist level - short long regular
In seam
Length of seam inside leg from crotch to hem of pant
What are length wise and bias grains?How are they different?
Length wise is the vertical/ warp direction parallel to the selvage. (wovens) wale direction for knits. *Most stable direction; most garments cut on it* The bias grain is diagonal. 45 degrees to warp or wale. It has more extensibility in a woven fabric.
Flat Collar
Lies flat or nearly flat against garment and around wearers neck( )in order for it to go around your neck the inner part must be round*) Has curved inner edge
Free-hanging lining
Lining attached to seam vs hem with swing tack*You can lift the lining up*
Partial lining
Lining only used on a portion of the garment *Saves in cost because you're only putting lining where it is necessary* Uses: Maintain shape (seat area of skirt). Conceal construction details in tailored jackets/coats
Sweetheart
Low neckline with a heart shape at the center front
Distribution center
Manufacturers facility used to consolidate product prior to allocation to individual retail sites.
What are the challenges for Pregnant Women in terms of sizing?
Many changes to body from the first to third trimester -Curvature of lower spine -Waistline moves up, then down -Hips and thighs increase
Numbered Sizing
Most commonly used Based on Body measurements Generally 1 to 1 1/2 inch difference between sizes for women's wear
Cut-away Armhole Bodice
Narrow shoulder seam and diagonal, sleeveless armhole
Does one-size-fits all really fit all body types?
No, because there are so many body types. More than likely the designer wants it to fit a certain way and It wont do that for a 120 pound woman and a 500 pound woman.
Fall(collar)
Portion of collar that extends from top of stand in downward direction
Swing tacks
Prevent free hanging lining from riding up or bunching up Allows lining to move, but restrict it from hanging below or showing on outside of garment
Accordion Pleats
Series of evenly spaced pleats Created a raised and recessed pattern
What is one challenge for Infants/Children's clothing in terms of sizing?
Their head is 2/3 the size it will be at adulthood/
What characteristics are common among collections or lines?
There could be cohesive color story, theme, fabric, or silhouette.
How are men's jackets and coats sized?
They are based on chest circumference and overall height S-short.. L-Long Example: 42R most common
What does the technical designer do?
They perfect the pattern pieces and make them ready for production -Specifications need to be identified. This is to make sure the garment has every single detail needed for the manufacturers to follow .
True or false: Higher price points may leave trousers with an unfinished hem for men and women.
True, so the consumer can get it tailored to fit them.
TRUE OR FALSE: One of the most expensive parts of the manufacturing is fabric.
True- it makes up about 60-70% of the total cost of styled garments
Inverted pleat
Two knife pleats folded toward one another -Double under to meet at central point
What are the challenges for an Older Adult in terms of sizing?
Typical weight gain Rib cage expands Abdomen rounds for women Buttocks flatten Changes to spinal column
Lining
Unit assembled in same or similar silhouette as garment Full lining considered high quality, *Basically two garments sewn together* Can be woven or knitted Woven linings are most common due to stability and smooth surface Knit linings can provide comparable stretch to outer.shell fabric
Pleats
Unstitiched or partially stitch folds of fabric Shallow pleats- use little fabric, low-cost garments Deep Pleats- use lots of fabric, high price garments Can be single or series *Always in the vertical direction*
Crew neck
Usually finished with ribbed trim, and sits at the base of the neck. You can get into this shirt very easily because of the ribbed trim *Style of neck on a standard T-Shirt* Must be a knit fabric to allow for stretching over head
Style Fullness- Dart equivalents
includes released darts, gathers, shirring, smocking, elastic, and drawstrings
Unit Production systems
-Operators cross-trained to do multiple jobs (more job satisfaction) -Computers(Over-head conveyor_ belts) used to send bundles to next operator -System can detect when operators need to switch jobs -Piece-rate wages Problems: You are trying to get things done faster because you are paid piece-work wages
Modular Manufacturing
-Operators work in teams -Paid by team vs individually sewing one garment at a time -Operators are cross-trained among different stations *Improved morale,enhanced quality, reduced worker turnover* Problems: -Communication and misunderstanding can be a problem( different options ) -Team members may be more aggressive than management at disciplining team members(because they are paid on how others work)
Progressive Bundle System
-Piecework rate-paid per item completed -standard allowed minutes -work is passed in bundles from one operator to the next *an assembly line - the worker is doing one job on each garment (ie. always inserting the zipper)* Problems: People are not cross-trained ,so there could be a high turnover However, this system is good for something like a white cotton T-Shirt
What will happen is a garment is off-grain?
-The garment will not hang correctly -It will appear twisted -May become uncomfortable to wear
What are the benefits from bias cut garments?
-They drape and roll beautifully. -They hang close to body, and emphasize contours -They emphasize geometric fabric prints,sheen and light reflection, or metallic yarns *True bias cut fabric is ideal as binding because it stretches and rolls*
What are some methods for conducting trend analysis
-Travel and observe street fashion(Any one can do this ) -Attend trade shows -Establish in-house trend department -Subscribe to forecasting services(WGSN, PANTONE) -Read trade publications and online sites(WWD)
What is involved in the Post-Assembly stage
-Wet and dry processing -Color removal (ie, distressing) -Wrinkle prevention -Dyeing -Pressing( pressing happens through out, but the vinyl press gets it ready to be put into shipping containers) -Folding
What are the three major production methods
1-Progressive bundle System 2-Unit Production System 3-Modular Manufacturing
Standing collar
Band extends straight up from neckline edge and stands around neckline *Has a straight inner edge*
How are sizes classified?
Based on sex,age, and/or body types
What are the cost issues surrounding the use of bias cuts in garment construction?
Bias cuts waste considerable more fabric than straight-of-grain layout *less cost efficent* Bias-cut garments more difficult as they tend to stretch out of shape during construction *Bias cuts not frequently used in low-price lines*
Halter bodice front with neck band and gathers
Bodice with a band or tie encircling he neck with partially open back
Main/ outer fabric
Body, fashion, shell fabric
Bra size and Cup size
Bra Size- number(under bust measurement& cup size Cup size- Different in measurement at fullest point of bust and measurement under bust *Sizing a little more standard*
What are the differences between trends and classic clothing?
Classics- are clothes that last a long time. Example: Distressed jeans, Navy blue blazers Trends- or fads enter and exit the fashion cycle quickly Example: Off the shoulder tops, Mesh tops
Sizing
Classification of dimensions of garments -Way of standardizing dimensions for RTW market
Women's wear sizing
Clothing for adult females Hip,bust,waist, and height measurements used
Menswear sizing
Clothing for adult males Menswear sizing more consistent across manufacturers because body measurements are used
Outerwear
Clothing seen by others Example: dresses, jackets, sportswear, etc
What is considered underwear?What has caused a shift in this business?
Clothing worn beneath outwear? However, lately PJs have been worn as street wear and woman are showing more of their underwear in public. There has also been a shift toward casual dressing & working from home = growth of all-day sleepwear business
Shaping methods
Control the way the garments fits the contours of the body using *darts and dart equivalents* Price is affected by shaping methods!
Knockoff
Copy or near copy near of design under a different brand name *In the fashion industry we encourage this* Example: Forever 21 does this often
Sleeves
Covering for arm attached at or near the armscye *Can be functional or aesthetic/feature* 3 Common sleeves: Set-in sleeve Kimono Sleeve Raglan Sleeve
Kimono sleeve
Cut as one with body of garment
Raglan Sleeve
Diagonal seam from underarm to neckline Goes to neckline EXAMPLE: A HENLEY SHIRT or a BASEBALL TEE
Drop
Difference between chest size and pants size (Typically 6- 7 inch) Usually associated with a man's suit
Evaluation of previous line
During this stage, we look at what sold well last season, or what did not sell. Any changes in the consumer demand
Grain(Fit)
On-grain = lengthwise grain of fabric Run parallel to length of body at center front (CF) and center back (CB) Down center of arm from shoulder to elbow Down center front of pants leg
Cowl
One or more folds introduced into neck shape May be high or low, *It can be on the front or the back* Works best when cut on the true bias or on soft drapable fabrics *COST ALERT*, because of the use of extra fabrics
Neckline
Outline of a bodice around the neck or upper torso -Raw edge is finished using facing, binding or banding main types of neck lines: Crew necks
What is the average woman's body shape
Pear !! Not hour glass like people may think
Knife pleats
Pleat doubled upon itself *Typically moves in one direction* Not suitable for stretch, bulky or napped fabrics
Gores
Vertical divisions within a garment Can be an even number or odd *More gores=higher cost* Number of panels= number or gores Helps create interest in a garment
Dart
Way to shape the fabric to fit the figure. Allows for extra fabric to be taken up and molded around curves of body You can have darts at the waist,hip,bust,shoulders, etc Garments with darts *do not* usually fit a wide range of sizes.
Drop Ship date
When the product is shipped to the store
What gender uses darts more and why?
Women do. Because we naturally have more curves