Chapter 21 Milady Study Tool

What is color?

Color is described as a property of objects that depends on the light they reflect and is perceived (by the human eye) as red, yellow, blue, or other shades.

What are activators?

Also known as boosters, protinators, or accelerators, these are powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability

What is oxidative color?

Demi-permanent and permanent.

What is hair density?

Hair density, the number of hairs per square inch, can range from thin to thick. Density must be taken into account when applying haircolor to ensure proper coverage.

What is hair texture?

Hair texture is the diameter of an individual hair strand. Large-, medium-, and small-diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium, and fine hair textures, respectively.

What is gray hair?

Hair that has lost its pigment and is normally associated with aging.

What is the law of color?

A system for understanding color relationships. When combining colors, you will always get the same result from the same combination.

What is a hydrogen peroxide developer?

It is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color.

What is new growth?

It is the part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored. New growth will become obvious as the hair grows. When performing a retouch, always lighten the new growth first.

What is volume?

It measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide. The lower the volume, the less lift achieved; the higher the volume, the greater the lifting action.

Which 2 of the 3 lighteners can be used on the scalp?

Oil and cream.

What are the three forms of lighteners?

Oil, cream, and powder.

What is hair porosity?

Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture. Porous hair accepts haircolor faster, and haircolor application on porous hair can result in a cooler tone than applications on less porous hair.

Which 1 of the 3 lighteners is too strong to be used on the scalp?

Powder.

What is non-oxidative color?

Temporary and semi-permanent.

What are color fillers?

These equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on pre-lightened hair. Color fillers are used on overly porous, pre-lightened hair to equalize porosity and provide a uniform contributing pigment that compliments the desired finished color. Demipermanent haircolor products are commonly used as color fillers. As a general rule, if you are going three levels or more darker, you will need to use a color filler.

What are secondary colors?

They are a color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. The secondary colors are green, orange, and violet.

What are conditioner fillers?

These are used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and from scalp to ends. They can be applied in a separate procedure or immediately prior to the color application.

What is a highlighting shampoo?

These colors are prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo. They are used when a slight change in hair shade is desired, or when the client's hair processes very rapidly. This process highlights the hair's natural color in a single application. Because highlighting shampoos are made with permanent hair color, aniline is still present in small amounts. Therefore, a patch test is required.

What is tone?

AKA hue, it is the balance of color.

What are the steps for applying color to new growth and faded ends?

1. Apply color to the new growth only, being careful not to overlap on previously colored hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and a line of demarcation, which is the visible line separating colored hair from new growth. 2. Process color according to your analysis and strand test results. 3. Bringing permanent haircolor through the ends to refresh faded color can cause unnecessary damage to the hair, Instead formulate a demipermanent haircolor for the ends to match the new growth. Work the demipermanent color through to the ends. Then shampoo and condition. Remember that the same color formula used with different volumes of peroxide will produce different results.

What are the 2 methods of color application?

1. Bottle 2. Bowl and Brush

What makes people color their hair?

1. Cover up or blend gray (unpigmented) hair. 2. Enhance an existing haircolor. 3. Create a fashion statement or statement of self-expression. 4. Correct unwanted tones in hair caused by environmental exposure such as sun or chlorine. 5. Accentuate a particular haircut.

How is the hair structured?

1. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair. It protects the interior cortex layer and contributes up to 20 percent of the overall strength of the hair. 2. The cortex is the middle layer and gives the hair the majority of its strength and elasticity. A healthy cortex contributes about 80 percent to the overall strength of the hair. It contains the natural pigment called melanin that determines hair color. Melanin granules are scattered between the cortex cells like chips in a chocolate chip cookie. 3. The medulla is the innermost layer of the hair. It is sometimes absent from the hair and does not play a role in the haircoloring process.

What are the 5 questions to ask before a haircolor service?

1. What is the natural level, and does it include gray hair? 2. What is the level and tone of the previously colored hair? 3. What is the client's desired level and tone? 4. Are contributing pigments (undertones) to be revealed? 5. What colors should be mixed to get the desired result?

What should precede every service, especially haircolor?

A client consultation.

What should you perform 24-48 hours before a haircolor service to check for allergies?

A patch test.

What is the level system?

The level system is a system that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color. Haircolor levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest and 10 the lightest.

What is intensity?

The strength of a color. It can be described as soft, medium, or strong.

What is demi-permanent color?

These are also known as no-lift, deposit-only color, is formulated to deposit but not lighten color. These products are able to deposit without lifting because they are usually less alkaline (or even acid based) than permanent colors and are mixed with a low-volume developer. Decolorization requires a high pH and a high concentration of peroxide.

What are developers?

These are also known as oxidizing agents or catalysts, have a pH between 2.5 and 4.5. Although there are a number of developers on the market, hydrogen peroxide is the one most commonly used in haircolor.

What are fillers?

These are used to equalize porosity. Some fillers are ready to use as they come from the manufacturer. Others are a mixture of haircolor and conditioner that your instructor can help you prepare. There are two types of fillers: conditioner fillers and color fillers.

What is semi-permanent color?

They are a no-lift, deposit-only, non-oxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos, depending on the hair's porosity. The pigment molecules are small enough to partially penetrate the hair shaft and stain the cuticle layer, but they are small enough to diffuse out of the hair during shampooing, thus fading with each shampoo.

What are tertiary colors?

They are an intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. The tertiary colors include blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, red-orange, yellow-orange, and yellow-green.

What are lighteners?

They are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. As soon as hydrogen peroxide is mixed into the lightener formula, it begins to release oxygen. This is known as oxidation, a process by which oxygen is released, and it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

What are metallic haircolors?

They are known as progressive haircolors, are haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air, creating a dull, metallic appearance.

What are natural haircolors?

They are known as vegetable haircolors, such as henna, and are colors obtained from the leaves or bark of plants. They do not lighten natural hair color. The color result tends to be weak, and the process tends to be lengthy and messy. Also, shade ranges are limited. For instance, henna is usually available only in clear, black, chestnut, and auburn tones.

What is temporary color?

They are non-oxidation colors that make only a physical change, not a chemical change, in the hair shaft, and no patch test is required. Because this nonpermanent color has large pigment molecules that do not penetrate the cuticle layer, only a coating of color is deposited which may be removed by shampooing.

What are complementary colors?

They are primary and secondary colors positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel. Complementary colors include blue and orange, red and green, and yellow and violet.

What are primary colors?

They are pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors. All colors are created from these three primaries.

What are toners used for?

They are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale, delicate colors. They require a double-process application. The first process is the application of the lightener; the second process is the application of the toner.

What is permanent color?

They lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than demi-permanent colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer. Permanent haircolor is used to match, lighten, and cover gray hair. Permanent haircolor products require a patch test 24 to 48 hours before application.

What is the foil technique?

This process involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap for processing. You can also apply permanent haircolor to the strands to create softer, more natural-looking highlights. The same technique can be used for lowlighting. When lowlighting, the use of a demipermanent color is an option.

What is highlighting?

This process involves coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.

What is the cap technique?

This process involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing them to remove tangles. The number of strands pulled through determines the amount of hair that will be highlighted or lowlighted.

What is the balyage technique?

This technique, also known as free-form technique, involves the painting of a lightener (usually powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair. The lightener is applied with an applicator brush or a tail comb from scalp to ends around the head.

What is reverse highlighting?

This technique, also known as lowlighting, is the technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color. Contrasting dark areas recede, appear smaller, and make detail less visible.

What is special effects haircoloring?

This term refers to any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring. Coloring for special effects can be thought of as a pure fashion technique. It is a versatile and exciting haircoloring service.