Hair Care & Services

The types of perm rod are as follows:

Concave rods are the most commonly used perm rod. They have a smaller diameter in the center, which increases to a larger diameter at the ends. They produce a tighter curl in the center, and a looser curl on either side of the strand. Straight rods are the same diameter along their entire length/curling area, which produces a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand. Loop rods (AKA circle rods) are about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long, and they have the same diameter along the entire length of the rod. After the hair is wrapped, the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop. Soft bender rods are similar to loop rods, but they have a flexible wire insides that enables them to be bent into almost any shape. Today, many clients wish for large, loose curls and waves - which requires the use of large rollers, rag rollers, and other tools. Larger tools are also used for root perms - where only the base of the hair is permed (to create lift and volume without curl).

Hair brushing

Correct hair brushing helps to: Stimulate blood circulation to the scalp Remove dust, dirt, and hairspray buildup from the hair Give the hair added shine A brush with natural bristles is most suitable for regular hairbrushing use. Always begin brushing the hair from the ends first and then work up toward the scalp. You can then freely brush the hair in order to remove all tangles. When brushing wet hair, use a wide-toothed comb instead.

Alkaline waves:

(AKA cold waves) have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6. Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) is the active ingredient/reducing agent. ATG is an alkaline chemical that's formed when two other chemicals are combined: Thioglycolic acid (commonly referred to as thio). Ammonia, an alkalizing agent that's added because acids such as thio don't swell the hair or penetrate the cortex. Alkaline waves process at room temperature (i.e. "cold wave") without needing any heat. Hair should be wrapped with minimal tension because the alkalinity will cause the hair to swell - which puts it at risk of breakage. Best for coarse, thick, or resistant hair. Can also be used on naturally curly hair with an uneven curl pattern. NOTE: if a client's hair has previously been treated with a hydroxide relaxer, you must not apply thio to the hair for permanent relaxing or waving: it will not properly relax or curl the hair, and it may cause extreme damage.

Cutting line

(AKA cutting position, cutting angle, finger angle, and finger position) is the angle at which a stylist holds their fingers when cutting, to create the end shape of the hair. Cutting lines can be either straight or curved.

Haircutting shears

(AKA scissors) are mainly used to cut blunt or straight lines of hair.

The most commonly used elevations are:

45 degrees 90 degrees Keep in mind... Hair length is also a factor in the end result: the weight of longer hair means it often appears heavier or less layered - even if it's received more elevation. Curly hair will need less elevation or be kept a bit longer compared to straighter hair, because of shrinkage.

Curved lines soften a design and can be placed horizontally, vertically, or diagonally - often at the perimeter of a hair design in the nape/back area and around the face. When repeated in opposite directions, they create a wave pattern. There are two main types of curved cutting lines:

A convex line is produced by cutting the nape/back area into a rounded shape with the curve at the bottom of the design. (The rounded portion of a convex line curves outward.) A concave line is produced by cutting the nape/back area into a rounded shape with the curve at the top of the design. (The rounded portion of a concave line curves inward.)

To achieve certain hairstyles, subsections of hair must be lifted/held away from the head at a certain angle before being cut. The angle/degree at which the subsection is held is known as the elevation (AKA projection or lifting). Elevation occurs when you lift any section of hair above 0 degrees (where 0 degrees involves not lifting the hair at all, and simply cutting length off the hair at the bottom). If a haircut is not a single length, elevation will have been used.

A graduated haircut is a slow or immediate buildup of weight at a low to medium elevation (usually 45 degrees). Other ways to create a graduated haircut are by cutting with tension or overdirection. A layered haircut is when the hair is elevated 90 degrees or higher, which removes weight. Types of layered haircut include the pixie, cro, Caesar, and shag. A blunt, one-length haircut has no elevation (i.e. 0 degrees). The blunt haircut is also known as a bob, one-length, or pageboy haircut.

The main types of growth pattern are:

A hair stream is hair that flows in the same direction, resulting from follicles sloping in the same direction. "Normal" hair consists of two streams flowing in opposite directions from the head to form a natural parting. A whorl is hair that forms in a circular pattern (such as on the crown of the head). A cowlick is a tuft of hair that stands up straight. It's usually more noticeable at the front hairline (the hair that grows at the outermost perimeter along the face), but can be found anywhere on the head.

There are three main types of straight cutting lines:

A horizontal cutting line is used when creating a blunt (one length) haircut. (It's customary to cut below your fingers or on the inside of your knuckles for such a haircut.) A vertical cutting line (AKA 90-degree cutting line) creates a layered shape. A diagonal cutting line (AKA 45-degree cutting line) creates styles like a graduated bob. Beveling and stacking are techniques that use diagonal lines to create angles by cutting the ends of the hair with a slight increase or decrease in length.

Permanent waving (AKA permanent wrapping or chemical waving) is when the hair undergoes two changes:

A physical change is caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods. The hair then undergoes a chemical change when a waving solution and neutralizer are added.

Before you begin making pin curls, you need to create your base. There are a few different types of base:

A rectangular base is recommended at the side front hairline for a smooth, upswept effect. A triangular base helps to prevent breaks or splits in the finished hairstyle. It allows a portion of the hair from each curl to overlap, and is recommended for the front or facial hairline. An arc base (AKA half-moon or C-shaped) provides good direction. It can be used at the hairline or in the nape. A square base can be used on any part of the head, and is suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift.

There are two types of guideline: stationary and traveling.

A stationary guideline is used to create a blunt (one length) haircut, or in a haircut that uses overdirection to create an increase in length or weight. A stationary guideline does not move. All other sections are combed to the stationary guideline and cut at the same angle and length. A traveling (or movable) guideline is used to create a layered or graduated haircut. A traveling guideline travels with you as you work through the haircut: you take a small slice of the previous subsection and move it to the next subsection (or position), where it becomes your new guideline.

Abnormal hair loss

Abnormal hair loss is called alopecia. The three most common types of abnormal hair loss are: Androgenic/androgenetic alopecia (commonly referred to as "male pattern baldness") is when terminal hair "miniaturizes" back into vellus hair. By the age of 35, about 40% of both women and men will show some degree of hair loss. Alopecia areata is an autoimmune disorder that leads to hair loss in patches - and can eventually lead to hair loss across the entire head. Postpartum alopecia is hair loss that occurs toward the end of pregnancy or soon after delivery. It almost always grows back. Traction alopecia (AKA traumatic alopecia) is the most common balding disorder among women and girls with highly textured hair, and it occurs when the hair is pulled too tight.

Draping

After the client consultation and before any cosmetology service can begin, the client must be appropriately draped for whichever service(s) they're about to receive. Draping protects the client's clothing from water, haircolor, and so on. Before draping, always do the following: Ask the client to remove any necklaces. Wash your hands. Turn the client's collar in.

BLUNT HAIRCUT (AKA ONE-LENGTH HAIRCUT)

All the hair comes to a single hanging level, forming a weight line. Zero elevation. Zero overdirection. Cut with a stationary guide. The cutting line can be horizontal, diagonal, or rounded. The hair is all cut to one length, which makes it appear thicker. It's therefore an excellent style for finer and thinner hair types.

Bacterial infections

Bacterial infections of the scalp are caused by two strains of bacteria known as staphylococci and streptococci.

DRAPING FOR CUTTING/STYLING (DRY DRAPING)

Before cutting/styling, replace any towels with a neck strip that is secured with a haircutting or styling cape. Fold the neck strip down so that no part of the cape touches the client's skin.

You will need to test pressing combs before use. After heating the comb to the desired temperature, test it on a piece of light paper. If the paper becomes scorched, the comb needs to be left to cool down a bit before using.

Before pressing, you should also prepare the hair by applying a pressing oil or cream - which will condition the hair, help prevent breakage, add sheen, and help hair stay pressed for longer.

Creating permanent waves is a two-step process involving the use of a reducing/processing agent (i.e. the active ingredient to create the waves) and a neutralizing agent. Some types of permanent wave also require a separate "activator".

Before the service begins, many manufacturers require that you shampoo the client's hair first. If this is the case, drape the client for a shampoo and towel dry the hair until moist. Then re-drape the client for a chemical service. It's advisable to perform a preliminary test curl on damaged/tinted hair (or where there's uncertainty about the results). The test will help to determine the processing time for optimal curl development, plus the results you can expect to see from the type of solution and tool size/wrapping technique you've selected. When perming hair that has been tinted, bleached, or highlighted, it is best to use a product that includes a pre-wrap lotion, which helps to equalize porosity.

Disorders of the hair

Canities is the technical term for gray hair (although the hair can actually be anywhere between white and gray), and it's caused by the loss of the hair's natural melanin pigment. The loss may be congenital (albinos) or acquired (age, illness, or anxiety). Other than the absence of pigment, gray hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair: it is not coarser or more resistant. Ringed hair is a variety of canities characterized by alternating bands of gray and pigmented hair throughout the length of the hair strand. Hypertrichosis (AKA hirsuties) is where terminal hair grows in areas that normally grow only vellus hair. Examples include mustaches or beards on women. Trichoptilosis is the technical term for split ends, which can only be removed by cutting them off. Fragilitas crinium is brittle hair, which means the hair can split at any point along its length. Treatment includes conditioning (to avoid the hair splitting in the first place) and haircutting above a split to avoid further damage. Trichorrhexis nodosa (AKA knotted hair) is characterized by brittleness and the formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft. Treatment involves softening the hair with conditioners and moisturizers.

There are two basic categories of wigs:

Cap wigs are usually handmade/hand-knotted and require a special fitting. They're made using an elasticized mesh fiber to which the hair is attached, and they have a snug, secure fit. They're a good choice for someone with extremely thin hair or alopecia because the bald won't show through. Capless wigs (AKA caps) are long strips of hair with a threaded edge, which are machine-made from human or artificial hair. The hair is woven into rows of wefts (long strips of hair), which are then sewn to elastic strips in a circular pattern to fit the head shape. Capless wigs are ready to wear, less expensive, lighter, and more comfortable, so they tend to be more popular. They're not a good choice for someone with extremely thin hair or alopecia because you can see through to the scalp.

The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are:

Cleanliness and stimulation

CUTTING AND STYLING WIGS

Cutting a wig is best performed on a wig block or stand. A block is a head-shaped form, usually made of cork or Styrofoam, on which a wig is placed. Coloring, perming, relaxing, setting, and basic cut outlining can be performed on a wig block too. Combing and finishing a wig should always be done on the client's head.

GOOD/HIGH POROSITY

Hair with good/high porosity has a raised (open) cuticle layer that easily absorbs moisture (it is "hydrophilic"). When haircolors are applied, they'll absorb much faster but will also fade much more quickly. Hair with good/high porosity is considered to be overly porous - often due to previous overprocessing. This type of hair is often damaged, fragile, dry, and brittle. You'll need to use chemical solutions that have a lower pH (i.e. are less alkaline), to harden/shrink/close the cuticle, reduce porosity, and help prevent further overprocessing/damage. Fine hair normally has good/high porosity (although this isn't always the case).

The most common classic updos are the chignon, bun, and twist:

The chignon (AKA the knot) is a classic style that's been popular for centuries, and is created out of a simple ponytail. It is usually placed at the crown or the nape. If the client doesn't have naturally straight hair, it will have to be blow dried or pressed straight first. The bun is also created out of a simple ponytail, and it can sit high or low. The bun can be formed by twisting the hair around the ponytail or back-brushing it and forming it into a bun before securing it with bobby pins. The twist (AKA the French pleat) is an elegant, sleek look that creates a conical-shape look.

The amount of volume achieved depends on the size of the roller and how it sits on its base:

The larger the roller, the greater the volume. There are three kinds of bases. On base (AKA full base) creates the most volume; half base produces medium volume; off base creates the least volume

Acid waves:

The main reducing agent in all acid waves is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG), which has a low pH. Other reducing agents may be included too - such as ATG. The pH of natural hair is between 4.5 and 5.5. As a result, the pH of acid waves is still more alkaline than that of hair - which means it still enables the hair to swell (even though the product is considered "acidic" or "neutral" on the pH scale). Although the low pH of acid waves may seem like a good thing, repeated exposure to GMTG is known to cause allergic sensitivity in both stylists and clients. Also, as with all products that are more alkaline than the hair, there's also the possibility that the hair will be damaged after being permed with true acid waves. (And keep in mind that even the strongest acid also contains some alkalinity.)

All professional shears are made of steel - which all have a gauge for "hardness" called the Rockwell hardness. This gauge determines how long the steel can maintain a hard edge before it needs sharpening/maintenance again. Generally, a shear with a Rockwell hardness of 56-57 is ideal (but no higher than 63, as it will be too hard and brittle to work with).

When holding shears, your ring finger should go in the finger grip (ring) of the still blade, and your little finger should be placed on the finger tang (brace). Your thumb should be placed in the finger grip (thumb grip/ring) of the moving blade.

Before pressing, you will need to consider the type of hair:

When pressing fine hair, apply less pressure and heat to the hair ends. If the curl form isn't too wiry, you may want to consider flat ironing instead. Short, fine hair must be given extra care at the hairline, to avoid burns. Also make sure the pressing comb isn't too hot: the hair is fine and will burn easily. Coarse hair requires enough pressure so that the hair remains straightened. Tinted or lightened hair may require a conditioning treatment, depending on how damaged it is. Gray hair may be particularly resistant to pressing. To get good results, use a moderately heated pressing comb with light pressure. Avoid excessive heat as discoloration or breakage can occur. Wiry, curly hair may be coarse, medium, or fine. It is very resistant to hair pressing and requires more heat and pressing than other types of hair. Coarse, extremely curly hair is also difficult to press. It requires more heat and pressure than medium or fine hair.

Wigs

When someone wears a wig, their hair is completely concealed or almost completely concealed (80-100% coverage).

GRADUATED HAIRCUT (A GRADUATED SHAPE OR WEDGE)

Where the hair graduates from longer to short (e.g. graduated the back of a bob, or a "forward grad" - layering around the front of the hairstyle). The ends of the hair appear closer together than in a layered style. Achieved by cutting the hair with tension. Low to medium elevation, or overdirection (the most common elevation is 45 degrees). Variations and effects can be created by adjusting the degree of elevation, the amount of overdirection, or your cutting line. There is a visual buildup of weight in a given area. The ends of the hair appear to be stacked.

SHAMPOO AND SURFACTANTS After water, the second most common ingredient in shampoos is the surfactant. A surfactant is a substance that allows oil and water to mix/emulsify. A surfactant molecule has two ends: the hydrophilic (water-attracting) head, and the lipophilic (oil/fat-attracting) tail.

While shampooing, the hydrophilic head attracts water, while the lipophilic tail attracts oil. This creases a push-pull process that causes the oils and dirt to be rolled up into little balls that can be lifted off the hair in the water and rinsed off.

EXTRA CONSIDERATIONS:

Wide-set eyes benefit from a higher half bang to create length in the face. Draw attention away from a crooked nose with an asymmetrical, off-center hairstyle. For a wide, flat nose, draw the hair away from the face and use a center parting to elongate and narrow the nose. Long, narrow noses work best with styles where the hair moves away from the face, creating the illusion of wider facial features. For a round jaw, use straight lines at the jaw line. For a square jaw, use curved lines at the jaw line. A long jaw requires full hair that falls below the jaw line. A receding chin works best with hair that's directed forward in the chin area.

Endothermic waves:

are activated by an outside heat source (normally a conventional hood-type hairdryer). An endothermic chemical reaction is one that absorbs heat from its surroundings. Most true acid waves are endothermic.

Parasitic infections

are highly contagious. (Parasites are organisms that grow, feed, and take shelter on other living matter, while contributing nothing to the survival of the host.) To help prevent spreading parasitic infections in the salon, you must follow approved cleaning and disinfection procedures. You shouldn't treat anyone with a parasitic infection, and they must be referred to a physician for medical treatment. There are two main types of parasitic infection: scabies and lice.

Scabies

caused by a parasite called a mite that burrows under the skin. Blisters ("vesicles") and inflamed pimples with pus ("pustules") appear on the scalp from the irritation caused by the parasite.

Finger waving

considered to be "the foundation of hairstyling": it teaches you the technique of moving and directing hair, and gives you valuable training in molding hair to the curved surface of the head. Finger waving involves shaping and directing the hair into an "S" pattern by using fingers, combs, and finger-waving lotion. (Finger-waving lotion - AKA liquid gel - is a type of hair gel that makes the hair pliable to keep it in place during the finger-waving procedure.)

Ammonia-free waves:

have a pH between 7.0 and 9.6. They use ingredients called alkanolamines - such as aminomethylpropanol (AMp) or monoethanolamine (MEA) - instead of ammonia. They don't smell as strong as ammonia, but they can be just as damaging. Best for porous to normal hair.

Thermal waving and curling (AKA Marcel waving)

involve using thermal irons and various manipulative techniques to wave and curl straight or pressed dry hair. Thermal irons can be electric or stove-heated. You will need to test thermal irons before use. After heating the iron to the desired temperature, clamp it over a white cloth or a piece of tissue paper for five seconds. If the material scorches or turns brown, the iron is too hot and needs to be left to cool down a bit before using - otherwise it might scorch the hair (and might even discolor white hair).

Overdirection

involves lifting the hair and cutting it above the head to create extra body and volume. Whereas elevation is the degree to which you lift a subsection of hair away from the head, overdirection involves combing the hair away from its natural falling position (rather than straight out from the head). This technique is mainly used in graduated and layered haircuts.

Hair with poor/low porosity

is referred to as being "resistant". It has a compact/closed cuticle layer and resists being penetrated by moisture (it is "hydrophobic"). NOTE: there is no such thing as "bad porosity". Hair with poor/low porosity hair requires an alkaline solution to raise/open/soften the cuticle and allow uniform saturation/processing. Coarse/wiry hair often has poor/low porosity because the cuticle scales lie flat against the hair shaft, limiting absorption.

Hair density

measures the number of individual hair strands on 1 square inch (2.5 square centimeters) of scalp, which gives an indication of how many hairs there are on a person's head. Hair density can be classified as low, medium, or high (or thin, medium, or thick/dense). People with the same hair texture can have different densities, and people with the same hair density can have different textures.

Pediculosis capitis (AKA head lice; "caput" means "head")

when head lice infest the hair and scalp and start to feed on blood from the scalp, causing it to itch. If the scalp is scratched, it can cause an infection. Head lice are transmitted between people by sharing hats, brushes, combs, and other personal articles. As these parasites feed on the scalp, it begins to itch. If the scalp is scratched, it can cause an infection. Head lice are transmitted from one person to another by contact with infested hats, combs, brushes, and other personal articles. You can distinguish head lice from dandruff flakes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass. You should not perform a service on anyone with pediculosis; they must be referred to a physician or pharmacist. Several nonprescription medications are available.

Normal hair loss

Hair undergoes a continuous growth, fall, and replacement of individual hair strands daily. A hair that is shed during the telogen phase is replaced by a new hair, in the same follicle, in the next anagen phase. The average person loses 35 to 40 strands per day.

AVERAGE PORISITY

Hair with average porosity is where the cuticle is slightly raised and accepts color products easily (but not too easily!). This is considered normal hair. When chemical services are performed on hair with average porosity, no special treatment is required.

The client consultation is the conversation between you and your client when you discover what kind they want out of their haircut, offer suggestions and advice, and reach a joint decision about the most suitable haircut. In addition to asking questions about your client's natural hair, lifestyle, and requirements when it comes to her hairstyle, the consultation should also involve:

Analyzing the face shape Analyzing the hair

Dry vs Oily

Dry hair/scalp is caused by inactive sebaceous glands. Excessive shampooing or dry climates aggravate the dryness further, and the condition should be treated with products that contain moisturizers and emollients. Oily hair/scalp is caused by overactive sebaceous glands or improper shampooing, and can be treated by properly washing with a normalizing shampoo (plus a balanced diet, exercise, regular shampooing, and good personal hygiene).

The cortex contains the pigments that make up a person's natural hair color. As you'll know from the section on skin color, these tiny grains of pigment are called melanin, and there are two types of melanin:

Eumelanin is a dark brown to black pigment. A lower concentration of eumelanin will produce brown hair. Pheomelanin is a red and/or yellow pigment. (A larger concentration will produce red hair, whereas a lower concentration will produce blond hair.) All natural hair color is the result of the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin (as well as the total number and size of the pigment granules). All natural hair color is the result of the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin (as well as the total number and size of the pigment granules).

Lines and angles

Every haircut is made up of lines and angles: An angle is the space between two lines/surfaces that intersect at a given point. A line is a continuous mark used as a guide, to make the hair fall into a particular shape.

Exothermic waves:

Exothermic waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 (like alkaline waves). These waves create their own heat via a reaction when the chemicals mix together. This heat speeds up the processing. Best for coarse, thick, or resistant hair

There are many different types of hairpieces:

Fashion hairpieces are great for special occasions or as fashion accessories. They're usually constructed on a stiff net base and attached, temporarily, with clips, combs, pins, or elastic. Integration wigs/pieces have an opening(s) in the base, through which the client's own hair is pulled to blend with the hair of the hairpiece. They're used to add length and/or volume to a client's own hair, and are recommended for those with thinning hair rather than total hair loss (as the scalp is likely to show through). Toupees are a type of integration wig, and they cover the top and crown of the head. There are two ways to attach them: temporary (tape or clips) or semipermanent (tracks, adhesive, or sewing). Most toupee clients are men, but women can wear them too. Hair extensions are hair additions that are secured at the base of the client's natural hair to add length, volume, texture, or color. They are either wefts (long strips) or strands (small bundles, which are attached one by one and are usually pre-bonded or keratin-tipped).

The most common types of staphylococci are:

Furuncles, which are boils: localized bacterial infections of the hair follicle). Carbuncles, which are inflammations of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci - similar to furuncles but larger. Folliculitis (AKA barber's itch or hot tub folliculitis), which is an infection of the hair follicles frequently caused by staphylococcus or other bacteria.

LONG LAYERED HAIRCUT

Gives more volume to hairstyles and can be combined with other basic haircuts. The resulting shape has shorter layers at the top and increasingly longer layers toward the perimeter.

Guidelines / guides In haircutting, a guideline (or guide) is a section of hair that determines the length of the hair will be when cut. It's normally the first section cut when creating a shape.

Guidelines are located either at the perimeter (the outer line, which starts at the forehead, goes down past the ears to the nape of the neck, and back again) or inside the haircut rather than on the perimeter (known as an interior guideline).

Human hair vs synthetic hair for wigs and hairpieces

Human hair looks more realistic, has greater durability, and requires the same styling as natural hair. However, it also reacts to the climate in the same way that natural hair does. Additionally, color will fade with exposure to light, due to oxidation; it will break and split if mistreated (e.g. by harsh brushing or excessive use of heat); and it needs to be reset after shampooing (which is challenging for someone who aims to maintain the hair at home) Synthetic hair is less expensive than human hair, easy to maintain at home, and doesn't react to the climate in the same way as human hair. What's more, most synthetic wigs, hairpieces, and extensions are already styled (with the cut, color, and texture already set), so they're much quicker than dealing with human hair. Anything made of modacrylic is very strong and durable. On the downside, it cannot be exposed to extreme heat (such as curling irons, flat irons, hot rollers, or the high heat of blow dryers) - although if it's been coated with a protein base, it might be able to tolerate low heat. And unlike human hair, traditional haircolor won't work on it.

Hairpieces / hair attachments

If a hair addition doesn't fully cover the hair (as a wig does), it is either a hairpiece (a small wig that covers a portion of the top and/or crown of the head, or clips onto another area - such as the nape) or a hair attachment of some sort. It usually can't be slept in, because it is attached by temporary methods.

Rollers (sometimes referred to as "barrels") create many of the same effects as pin curls, but they have a few advantages over pin curls:

They're faster to set the hair (because a roller holds the equivalent of two to four pin curls). The hair is wrapped around the roller with tension, providing a stronger and longer-lasting set. Rollers come in a variety of shapes, widths, and sizes, which means there are more possibilities for creating different styles.

LAYERED HAIRCUT (A GRADUATED EFFECT)

Involves cutting shorter pieces of hair that seamlessly fall together to give hair volume and movement. The hair has less weight than graduated haircuts, and the ends appear further apart. Cut the hair with elevation (usually 90 degrees and above) or overdirection. Can use a traveling guide, a stationary guide, or both. With a uniform layered haircut (a specific type of layered haircut), all hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the scalp and cut at the same length, using an interior traveling guideline (rather than the perimeter) as a guide.

Analyzing the hair As mentioned earlier, four characteristics determine the behavior of hair: Growth patterns Density Texture Elasticity

It's also important to consider the wave pattern - that is, the amount of movement in the hair strand, which varies from client to client (as well as within the same head of hair). Wave patterns refer to the design texture of the hair. A client may have: Straight hair (no wave) Wavy hair Curly hair Extremely curly hair And anything in between

Among other ingredients, most conditioners contain silicone (to reflect light and make the hair appear shiny) and humectants - which are moisture-binding substances that promote the retention of moisture.

Most treatment conditioners and leave-in conditioners contain proteins. These conditioners are also known as moisturizing or protein conditioners, and they are designed to penetrate the cortex and reinforce the hair shaft from within to temporarily reconstruct the hair. They also contain humectants that attract moisture from the hair and are absorbed into the cortex.

The difference between a relaxation and treatment massage is the products you use.

NOTE: scalp massage should not be performed on clients with hypertension. After a scalp treatment, you can use scalp astringent lotion to remove oil accumulation from the scalp before styling.

Because different types of hair react differently to the same service, all salon services must begin with an analysis of the client's scalp and hair type. The four most important factors to consider are texture, density, porosity, and elasticity. Also important are growth pattern and dryness vs oiliness.

NOTE: the board exam NEVER refers to a hair's "thickness" or "thinness". Instead, it always refers to its "texture" and "density".

Scalp care

Scalp treatments and massage can be performed at two different points in the hair service: If a scalp condition is present, the massage can be performed before a shampoo (as a treatment massage). If the primary purpose is relaxation, the massage can be performed during the shampoo.

Hair growth occurs in cycles, and each cycle has three phases that are repeated over and over throughout a person's life. Each cycle lasts around four to five years (on average). The three phases are:

Phase 1: the anagen phase (often referred to as the "growth" or "active" phase), when new hair is produced through a process called keratinization. Keratinization is when newly formed cells start to travel upward through the hair follicle. As they mature, they fill up with a fibrous protein called keratin and continue to move upward as they lose their nucleus and die. By the time the hair shaft emerges from the scalp, the cells of the hair are completely keratinized and are no longer living. The hair shaft that emerges is therefore a nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein. (Hair is approximately 90% protein.) The typical growth cycle is three to five years, and the average growth is about 0.5 inches (1.25 centimeters) per month - although the rate of growth varies on different parts of the body, between sexes, and with age. About 90% of hair is in this phase at any one time. NOTE: the anagen phase should not be confused with "androgens", which are a type of hormone. Phase 2: the catagen phase (often referred to as the "transition" phase), which is the brief transition period (1-2 weeks) between the growth and resting phases of the hair follicle. The follicle canal shrinks to about 1/6th its original length and detaches from the surface of the skin, the hair bulb disappears, the shrunken root end forms the shape of a rounded club, and no pigment is produced. Less than 1% of hair is in the catagen phase at any time. Phase 3: the telogen phase (often referred to as the "resting" phase), which is the final phase of the growth cycle, and lasts 3-6 months. About 10% of hair is in this phase at any point. The hair is either shed during this phase or it remains in place until the next anagen phase - when the new hair growing pushes it out.

It's believed that dandruff is caused by "malassezia": a naturally occurring fungus that is present on all human skin but causes the symptoms of dandruff when it grows out of control. Anti-dandruff scalp shampoos contain antifungal agents that suppress the growth of malassezia. There are two main types of dandruff:

Pityriasis capitis simplex (AKA dandruff) is characterized by scalp irritation, large flakes of epidermis ("scales"), and an itchy scalp. The scales will scatter loosely in the hair, fall to the shoulders, or may attach to the scalp in clumps. Treatment involves using anti-dandruff shampoos, conditioners, and topical lotions. (A client with dandruff can still have their appointment in the salon: they do not need to be referred elsewhere.) Pityriasis steatoides is a more severe case of dandruff. It consists of an accumulation of waxy or greasy scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp in crusts. When accompanied by redness and inflammation, it's called seborrheic dermatitis - which can also be found in the eyebrows and beard. You shouldn't perform a service on someone with with either of these conditions - and they must be referred to a physician.

Texturizing can be done with cutting shears, thinning shears, or a razor. Here are some of the main techniques when using shears:

Point cutting on the ends of the hair (using the tips/"points" of shears at an angle) will remove weight, soften ends, and create texture in a cut - especially on shorter hair. Notching is a version of point cutting in which the tips of the shears are moved toward the hair rather than into them, creating a chunkier effect. Slithering (AKA effilating) thins the hair to graduated lengths with shears. It reduces volume and creates movement. Slicing removes bulk and adds movement through the lengths of the hair. Carving is a version of slicing that creates a visual separation in the hair, and it works best on short hair.

There are five important principles in art and design, which are also the basis of hair design:

Proportion is the comparative relationship of one thing to another. Balance is establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry. Rhythm is a regular pulsation or recurrent pattern of movement. An example of fast rhythm in hair design is tight curls (a slow rhythm would be larger shapes or long waves). Emphasis (AKA focus) is an area of emphasis or focus to draw the eye to it. E.g. wave patterns, color, change in form, or ornamentation. Harmony holds all the other elements of the design together.

There are a few different types of shears:

Texturizing shears (AKA thinning shears, tapering* shears, or notching shears) remove weight/bulk from the hair without shortening the length, and add increased blending. Chunking shears (AKA notching shears) are useful for taking out big sections. Thinning shears are the most universally used, providing a consistent reduction of bulk. Blending shears are great for scissor-over-comb cutting.

Other haircutting tools

Razors (straight or feather blade) are mainly used to create a softer effect on the ends of the hair. NOTE: razors should not be used on curly hair. Clippers are mainly used when creating short haircuts, short tapers*, flat tops, and fades. When working with clippers, always work against the direction of the hair growth pattern, especially at the nape. This ensures that you are lifting the hair away from the head and cutting the hair evenly. Trimmers (AKA edgers) are a smaller version of clippers, and they're mainly used on men's haircuts and very short women's haircuts (often to remove unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears). Sectioning clips come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The most common types used are jaw/butterfly and duckbill clips. A wide-tooth comb is for detangling hair. A tail comb is to create hair sections/subsections. A barber comb is for close tapers* on the nape and sides when using the scissor-over-comb technique. (The narrow end of the comb allows the shears to get close to the head.) A styling/cutting comb (AKA all-purpose comb) is used in most haircutting procedures. It can be six to eight inches long and has fine teeth at one end and wider teeth at the other. NOTE: when combing hair, the two reference points at which the comb leaves the head are the parietal ridge and the occipital bone. *A taper is when the hair gradually changes from one length to another. The term is used most frequently in barbering, when it generally refers to a "tapered haircut": shorter hair around the perimeter of the haircut, gradually getting longer.

Conditioner is applied to hair to give it more moisture and protein. While it cannot improve the quality of new hair growth, it can restore shine, manageability, luster, and strength to dry/damaged hair until it grows long enough to be cut off and replaced with new, healthier hair. There are three main types of conditioner:

Rinse-out conditioner, which is rinsed out of the hair after being worked through the hair. Treatment or repair conditioner (AKA deep-conditioning treatment), which is deep and penetrating to restore protein and moisture (often requires more time on the hair or the application of heat). If conditioner is to remain on the hair for more than a minute, place a plastic cap on the client's head and sit them upright for the recommended time. Leave-in conditioner, which isn't rinsed out.

There are two types of draping in a salon:

SHAMPOO (WET) DRAPING Shampoo (wet) draping is for any service that involves either shampoo + styling or shampoo + haircutting. Conditioner might also be used. Use two terry towels: one under the cape and one over. CHEMICAL SERVICE DRAPING Chemical service draping is for clients who will have a chemical service/treatment and who will not have a shampoo before the service. Use two terry towels again - one under the cape and one over. These should remain in place until the service is complete, and must be regularly checked for dryness. (Replace if they become wet or soiled.) If the instructions on a particular chemical product state that shampooing must take place first, follow the procedure for shampoo draping, then redrape for a chemical service. NOTE: as you'll see above, draping is the same for both shampoo and chemical services. The only difference is the timing of when the towels are removed.

Pin curls are made up of three main parts:

The base is the non-moving part closest to the scalp. The stem gives the pin curl its direction and movement/mobility. The circle is the part that's furthest from the scalp. The size of the circle determines the width of the wave and its strength.

SOFT WATER VS HARD WATER FOR SHAMPOOING

Soft water (rainwater or chemically softened water) contains only small amounts of minerals, and it therefore allows soap and shampoo to lather freely - making it preferable for shampooing. Hard water (usually well water) contains minerals that reduce the ability of soap or shampoo to lather, and may also change the results of the haircoloring service. A water treatment process can be used to soften hard water.

TEXTURIZING WITH SHEARS

Texturizing is a process that adds or removes volume, makes hair move, or blends one area into another without shortening the length. (NOTE: the term "texturize" should not be confused with "hair texture", which is the diameter of the hair strand.)

The three main layers are the hair cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla.

The cuticle is the outermost layer, and it provides a barrier to protect the inner structure of the hair. It is responsible for creating the shiny, smooth, silky feeling of healthy hair. The cortex is the middle layer, and both the elasticity of the hair and its natural color are the result of particular protein structures found in the cortex called side bonds. These protein structures must be broken or stretched for services such as wet setting, hair coloring, permanent waving, thermal styling, and chemical hair relaxing to take place. (Broken bonds will reform at the end of the process through a variety of different processes.) The medulla is the innermost layer. Generally, only thick, coarse hair contains a medulla (and it's entirely possible for very fine and naturally blond hair to lack a medulla completely). The medulla is not involved in salon services.

HOW DO YOU TELL IF A STRAND OF HAIR IS SYNTHETIC OR REAL HUMAN HAIR?

The fastest way to tell is to pull the strand out of the wig/hairpiece and burn it with a match. Human hair will burn slowly and give off a distinctive odor. Synthetic hair will either ball up and melt, extinguishing itself, or it will contain to flame and burn out very quickly.

A mature strand of human hair is divided into two parts:

The hair root is located below the surface of the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin). The hair shaft projects above the epidermis.

Shampooing and pH scales

The more acidic a substance (i.e. the more hydrogen ions it contains), the smaller the number. The more alkaline the substance (i.e. the more hydroxide ions it contains), the higher the number. A completely neutral substance (which contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions) has a pH of 7. Distilled water has a pH of 7. Understanding pH levels will help you select the correct shampoo for your client. Hair and skin have a natural pH of 5 - i.e. more acidic than "neutral". An alkaline shampoo will have a pH of 7.1 or higher. The more alkaline the shampoo, the stronger and harsher it will be. It can leave the hair dry, brittle and porous - and hair with a high porosity can lead to faster fading in color-treated hair. The benefit of alkaline shampoos is that they cause the hair to soften and swell, causing the cuticle layer to open - which allows the shampoo to be absorbed well. An acidic shampoo will have a PH ranging from 0 to 6.9. A slightly acidic shampoo more closely matches the ideal pH of hair.

Updos and half updos are specialty styles for long hair, usually requested by clients for special occasions (weddings, proms, etc.). The following two basic styles are the foundation of every updo:

The ponytail is the foundation for a chignon, bun, and knot (among others), and can be worn in a casual, classic, or trendy style. The French Pleat can be applied to hair that is longer than shoulder length, and is popular for clients attending formal/elegant functions.

Basic haircuts

There are four basic haircuts on which the art of haircutting is based: blunt, graduated, layered, and long layered. These haircuts make use of the basic principles of haircutting. Once you understand the basic haircuts, you can begin experimenting with other cuts and effects.

Hair growth patterns

There can be multiple hair growth patterns (AKA the natural fall, natural part or natural falling position) on one head of hair, and it's important to consider them all when creating a haircut or hairstyle. Certain types of growth pattern affect where the hair ends up once dry, so you may need to use less tension when cutting these areas to compensate.

Here are some of the main forms of tinea:

Tinea pedis (AKA athlete's foot) causes itchy red skin - usually on the bottom of the foot/feet, between the fourth and fifth toes. Tinea capitis is a fungal infection (i.e. a plant parasite) of the scalp, where red spots are seen at the opening of the hair follicles and the hair becomes brittle. Like other forms of tinea, it can be spread easily to a non-infected area or person by means of improperly disinfected tools. Tinea barbae (AKA barber's itch) is the most frequently encountered fungal infection resulting from hair services - and it looks like tinea capitis.

Sections and subsections

To maintain control during haircutting, hair is divided into uniform working areas called sections (and each section can be further divided into subsections).

Neutralizing (often known as "thio neutralization") has two important functions:

To neutralize/deactivate any waving solution that remains in the hair. To rebuild any disulfide bonds that were broken by the waving solution (with the hair now in its new curly form). The term "neutralizer" is actually inaccurate, because the chemical reaction involved is oxidation - using an oxidizer such as hydrogen peroxide (the most common form of neutralizer). Hydrogen peroxide has a pH between 2.5 and 4.5, and it's often abbreviated to H2O2 (H2O2), NOTE: the hydrogen peroxide can sometimes cause the hair to lighten (which can usually be avoided if the hair is thoroughly rinsed and blotted before applying the neutralizer). (Hydrogen peroxide shouldn't be confused with sodium hydroxide - which is a very strong alkaline (pH 13 or more) used in chemical relaxers.) The neutralization process normally takes about 5-8 minutes to complete.

Analyzing the face shape

Triangle/pear-shaped: Narrow forehead and wide chin/jaw line. A good styling choice is to include a soft fringe (bangs) and height/volume at the top to disguise the narrow forehead. Oval: The forehead is slightly wider than the chin. The face is about 1.5 times longer than it is wide at the eyebrows. Considered the ideal face shape by artists and photographers. This face shape will suit most hairstyles. Round: Round and (usually) wide. A good styling choice is to add height/volume at the top and keep the hair close at the sides. Square: Wide at the temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, and squared off at the jaw. Bring the shape/silhouette close to the head form. Create volume in the area between the temples and jaw by adding width around the ear area. Oblong: Long and narrow with hollow cheeks. A good styling choice is chin length with volume at the sides to give the illusion of width. Keep the hair fairly close to the top of the head. This will make the face appear shorter and wider. Diamond: Narrow forehead and chin, and a larger width through the cheekbones. A good styling choice is one that increases a sense of fullness/width across the jawline and forehead while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line. Avoid hairstyles that lift away from the cheeks or move back from the hairline on the sides near the ear area. Inverted triangle (heart-shaped): Wide forehead and narrow chin line. Style the hair close to the head with no volume. Keep the silhouette at its widest at the jaw and neck area. A bang/fringe is recommended Inverted triangle (heart-shaped):

There are two main types of acid waves:

True acid waves have a PH between 4.5 and 7, and they require heat to process. They process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not produce as firm a curl. While some swelling still occurs, it is minimal. As a result, the hair must be wrapped with a firm an even tension in order to produce even curls. Best for very porous or very damaged hair. Acid-balanced waves are an intended compromise between acid waves and alkaline waves: they can be processed at room temperature and will produce a firmer curl, but have a lower pH than alkaline waves (between 7.8 and 8.2). Most of the acid waves found in today's salons are actually acid-balanced waves. Best for porous or damaged hair.

There are two main types of hair found on the body:

Vellus hair (AKA lanugo hair) is short, fine, unpigmented, and downy. It is usually found in areas of the body that are normally considered hairless (such as the forehead, eyelids, and bald scalp), as well as all the other areas of the body - apart from the palms of the hands or soles of the feet, which genuinely are hairless. Vellus hair helps with the evaporation of perspiration, and it almost never has a medulla. Terminal hair is long, coarse, and pigmented (with the exception of gray hair), and it appears on the scalp, legs, arms, and body. It usually has a medulla. Much vellus hair becomes terminal hair (e.g. on the male chest, face, legs, arms, and feet) during puberty. All hair follicles are able to produce either vellus or terminal hair, depending on genetics, age, and hormones.

TYPES OF SHAMPOO

pH-balanced shampoo is balanced to the pH of the skin and hair (4.5 to 5.5) by adding citric, lactic, or phosphoric acid to the shampoo. A pH-balanced shampoo prevents excessive dryness and hair damage. It helps to close the hair cuticle, and is recommended for hair that's been color-treated/lightened. Conditioning/moisturizing shampoo makes the hair appear smooth and shiny, and improves its manageability. Protein and biotin are two examples of conditioning agents added to these shampoos. They are also nonstripping, which means they don't remove artificial color from the hair. Medicated shampoo reduces dandruff and other scalp conditions. It can be quite strong and may affect the color of color-treated/lightened hair. In some cases it must remain on the scalp for a longer period of time than regular shampoo. (NOTE: anti-dandruff scalp shampoos contain antifungal agents that suppress the growth of malassezia.) Clarifying shampoo contains an active chelating agent that binds to metals (e.g. iron and copper) and removes them from the hair. It also enriches hair, helps retain moisture, and makes hair more manageable. It should be used when buildup is evident, before chemical services, and after swimming. NOTE: sometimes, a client's health means a wet shampoo will be uncomfortable. E.g. an elderly client may be uncomfortable at the shampoo bowl due to pressure at the back of the neck. In such cases, you can use a dry shampoo (AKA powder shampoo) instead.

Hair porosity

refers to the ability of the hair to absorb moisture, liquids, or chemicals. The degree of porosity is directly related to the condition of the cuticle layer.

Reducing/processing agents (AKA waving solutions)

soften and swell (i.e. expand) the hair, and they open the cuticle, allowing the solution to penetrate into the cortex. Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks/stretches a particular kind of side bond in the cortex (called disulfide bonds) through a chemical reaction called reduction. A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen from each of the two sulfur atoms in a disulfide bond. (In permanent waving, it's due to the addition of hydrogen.) The reduction reaction allows the hair to be waved, colored, etc. The strength of any permanent wave is based on two factors: The concentration of its reducing agent. The pH of the solution. If a weak or low pH solution is used on coarse hair, it may not be able to break the necessary number of disulfide bonds. Once hair processing is complete, the hair must be rinsed thoroughly for at least five minutes, then each rod must be towel-blotted to remove excess moisture.

Hair elasticity

the ability of the hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking. This "stretch test" is often referred to as the "pull test". Hair elasticity is determined by the strength of the hair's "side bonds" (chains of proteins found in the cortex/middle layer of the hair). Hair with low elasticity is brittle and breaks easily - and it may not be able to hold the curl from wet setting, permanent waving, or thermal styling. When chemical services are performed on hair with low elasticity, a milder solution with a lower (i.e. less alkaline) pH is required to prevent additional processing and minimize further damage.

Tension

the amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection; it is created by stretching or pulling the subsection. With curly or wavy hair, less tension is better: a lot of tension will lead to the hair shrinking even more than usual as it dries. It's also best to use less tension around the ears and on hairlines with strong growth patterns.

Trichology

the name given to the scientific study of hair, its diseases, and its care.

Weight line

the part of the haircut that holds the most weight. (It's where the ends of the hair hang together.) Think of it as the "base".

Pin curls

the process of making springy and long-lasting curls with good definition and direction. These curls serve as the basis for patterns, lines, waves, rolls, and curls that are used in many hairstyles.

Pityriasis

the technical term for dandruff, which is characterized by the excessive production and accumulation of skin cells. Whereas tiny individual skin cells are normally shed one at a time, dandruff involves shedding an accumulation of large, visible clumps of skin cells instead.

Tinea

the technical term for ringworm - a highly contagious fungal infection (which is a type of microscopic plant parasite and NOT an animal parasite, as the word "worm" suggests). It is characterized by itching, scales, and occasionally painful circular lesions. To help prevent the spread of this disease in the salon, you must follow approved cleaning and disinfection procedures. You shouldn't treat anyone with tinea, and they must be referred to a physician for medical treatment

Hair texture

the thickness/diameter of the individual hair strand (determined by feeling a single dry strand between the fingers), and it can be classified as coarse, medium, or fine. Hair texture can vary from strand to strand on the same person's head. Coarse hair has the largest diameter, and is the strongest. It may require more processing than medium or fine hair. Medium hair is the most common and poses no special concerns/problems. Fine hair has the smallest diameter and is easiest to process. It is also more fragile and susceptible to damage. When it comes to styling, coarse hair tends to stick out if it is cut too short. Fine hair can be cut to very short lengths and will still lie flat. If, however, a client has fine (texture) but thin (density) hair, cutting too short can result in the scalp showing through.

Thermal pressing combs

used both to straighten hair and to prepare it for additional services (such as thermal curling and croquignole thermal curling). As with thermal irons, thermal pressing combs can be electric or stove-heated. Hair straightening (or pressing) is a popular, profitable salon service that temporarily (until the next shampoo) straightens very curly or resistant hair.