History of Costume Exam 2
True
Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him
His uncle was old fashioned
If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes", he would mean that
codpiece
Padded for emphasis Display feature Sovereigns, sons, soldiers Disappears in mid-16th century
Early Baroque General Costume
"3 Musketeers" More relaxed appearance Lighter, more flowing Ends with re-stuffing after Louis XIV death
Paniers
"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called (18th c)
Solitaire
A black ribbon tied around the neck is called a
true
A major change in the fit of stockings came about when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I
Pomade
A perfumed ointment made of apples or wheat paste worn on the hair was
Northern Renaissance 1500-1600
Age of exploration New wealth Courts are where fashion begins House of Tudor Henry VIII Elizabeth I
before lace
All trimming & edging was Cutwork, drawnwork, pulled thread embroidery Limited to geometric designs Lace is more free-form
Spain to Italy to England
Pointed bodice and split skirt Ruffs Spanish farthingale
Bombast
Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with
True
Queen Elizabeth I is wearing a Medici collar, stomacher, and wheel farthingale
Late Baroque Women
Resurfacing of stiff clothes Stomacher is elongated Split skirt with Petticoats exposed Manteau/Mantua Petticoats Fontange headdress Aprons, Gauntlets, purses
Eschelles
Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called
Plainer fabric, Closer fitting coat and sorter waistcoat, and breeches
The "Modern Man" look includes (18th c)
Empire Dresses
The Robe en Chemise, made of sheer cotton, is the forerunner of the
Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century
The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because
1477 Swiss victory over Burgundy
The fashion for "slashing and puffing" was inspired by:
In the 16th century
The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume:
Funnel
This Cavalier is wearing ____ boots Wider as get to knee Sometimes foldover spurs
Fontage Headdress and Mantua (dress) a & b
This Late Baroque woman is wearing a
Polonaise, milkmaid
This dress is worn a la ... and was part of ... style
True
This man is wearing a doublet with a peascod belly and trunk hose
true
Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of Banyans, Pastel colors, Floral motifs
stomacher
Triangular shaped bodice piece Sewn onto front of gown
knitting
Extant pieces from Egypt Revived in Renaissance
venetian women
Fashion illustrations printed 1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)
Italian Renaissance Costume—Women
Two types of dresses 1. One piece 2. Attached bodice and skirt
False
Venetian nobles who wore wide sleeves were less important than those who wore narrow sleeves
Spanish
What style influenced Renaissance fashion?
Codpiece
When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the
American attempts to be fashionable
When the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy" used the term "macaroni" it was making reference to
Petticoats
Which of the following are undergarments today, but were a visible part of outergarments in the 16th century?
Lavish use of opulent fabrics
Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?
The manteau & the vest (a & b)
Which of the following may have derived from Middle Eastern styles?
Farthingales
Which of the following were NOT elements of men's costume during the 16th century in Northern Europe?
all of the above
Which of the following were devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance? a. Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins b. Balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance c. Patches to cover skin blemishes
Embroidery on camica
Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork Italian renaissance
Red high heels and soles
Worn by European royalty Associated with Louis XIV and his Court
The frock coat was
Worn instead of the coat in informal situations, inspired by the English country look, now an accepted option to coat
boot hose
Worn with funnel boots Folded over Showed lace (baroque)
Eleanora de Toledo
from Toledo, Spain Married to Cosimo I de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany--Duchess of Florence, Italy Brought Spanish fashion to Italy
whitework
general term for "white on white" embroidery
all of the above
Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were: a. a preference for bleached, blonde hair b. high, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking c. hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead
baroque children
Babies were wrapped in swaddling clothes Age 0 to 6/7, both boys and girls wore skirts "robes" for boys and "dresses" for girls After age 6/7 all genders wore adult styles
Spanish
Baroque period, the ____ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale
tights/hose
Bias cut pieces merged into one garment Front pouch added (becomes codpiece) Laced and tied with small eyelets and points or buttoned
Gowns—Spanish Influence
Bodice becomes more rigid Straight waistline develops V in front
Leading Strings
Broad ribbon or string attached to the shoulders; hung down the back Function: To help hold child upright when learning to walk Fashion: Stylized or fossilized form of pendant sleeves from Middle Ages
True
Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700's at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men
Shoes in Italy were not as long and pointed as in Northern Europe, Women in Italy covered their hair less completely, Men did not adopt the "bowl crop"
Differences between the dress of Italians and inhabitants of Northern Europe during the first half of the 15th century would have included:
Early Baroque Men
Doublet with peplum Huge cuffs Cassock Neckwear Breeches Cavalier hats Boots Baldric Cape, mantle
cavaliers
During english civil war Supporters of King Aristocracy/Royalists Elaborate fabrics and trims
Puritans
During english civil war Want to overthrow king Still wore fashions of day with moderation Roundheads
Late Baroque Men
Elimination of doublet Beginning of modern dress
The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women and The designs in some woven Italian textiles.
Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in (a & c)
Baroque 1600-1715
Flourishing left from Renaissance England, France, Spain competing for riches in New World 1715 death of Louis XIV
False
For the entire 18th century, children were dressed as miniature adults. There was no difference between adult and children's styles.
Louis XIV (14th) "Sun King"
France - late baroque Excessiveness French court influences fashion More decoration , over ornament, stiffer
lace
Free-form luxury fabric *Identify Renaissance by wearing of ____ Indication of wealth Acts of Apparel ---- no one under the rank of knight could wear English and French smuggle it from Belgium
Periwigs
Full, very curly wigs
early baroque women
Gown with 3/4 sleeves Wrist and forearm exposed Split skirt with petticoat - fluffy
true
In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible
Needle Lace
In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch
an acceleration of fashion change
Industrial Revolution led to
True
Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another
parti-colored hose
Italian men adopted the fashion for ________ Like color blocking, pieces are different colors
Shirt or Camica Doublet Tights/hose
Italian renaissance men costume
Late Baroque -1660-1715 Restoration
Kings and Courts are focus of attention England - Restoration of Monarchy 1660 - Charles II from exile in France France - Louis XIV (14th) The Sun King - Death in 1715
cravat
Long strip of linen with lace edges
France and Spain
Louis XIII (13th) - Fashion centered in Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times Defeat of Spanish Armada - Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues
True
Louis XIV "The Sun King" is wearing a periwig, cravat, and red heels on his shoes
Asian and Middle Eastern
Mantua-style gowns for women, men's dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume
Doublet Schaube Bases Hose Slashing & Puffing
N renaissance men Extravagant Richly colored Slashing & puffing Important change is development of trousers/breeches
Indiennes
New cotton textiles from India Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity pastel colors and floral motifs
Engageants
Sleeves on 18th century gowns ended below the elbow with one or more ruffles called
all of the above
Starch was used: a. First in Ancient Egypt b. To maintain shape on collars and ruffs c. In Europe beginning in the Renaissance - Revival comes along with lace
Baldrick
Sword belt (baroque)
Lacemakers
Taught to girls as young as 5 years old Life's work In damp basements with poor lighting Severely affected eyesight and health
False
The "Flea Cravat" was worn to keep fleas off one's body
Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns
The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800's were a result of
The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors
The political preferences of the two factions in the English Civil War of the 1600's were reflected by their dress, the difference being:
With the Swiss Army
The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated:
Petticoat breeches and Rhinegraves
The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called (a & c)
True
The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for court Dress in England
Chopines
These were platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans (made in Florence and influenced Paris fashion)
Rabat
also called a "Puritan" collar
falling band
collar
Golilla
baroque Stands away from neck Supported by "underpropper" Also called whisks Mostly worn by ladies
trunk hose, nether hose
n r men
plunderhose breeches
nr men
medici collar, stomacher, wheel farthingale
nr women
cutwork
raw edges covered with buttonhole stitch
points
renaissance
true
smocks and Short gowns were working class clothing during the 18th century
blackwork
spanish style originated in northern Africa spread to southern Spain with the Moors and onto Europe through Italy also done in red (redwork)
angular
women silhouette N renaissance men = boxy
Camica/Chemise
• Worn next to skin--Undergarment • Camica—shirt—men • Chemise—gown—women