History of Costume Exam 2

True

Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him

His uncle was old fashioned

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes", he would mean that

codpiece

Padded for emphasis Display feature Sovereigns, sons, soldiers Disappears in mid-16th century

Early Baroque General Costume

"3 Musketeers" More relaxed appearance Lighter, more flowing Ends with re-stuffing after Louis XIV death

Paniers

"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called (18th c)

Solitaire

A black ribbon tied around the neck is called a

true

A major change in the fit of stockings came about when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I

Pomade

A perfumed ointment made of apples or wheat paste worn on the hair was

Northern Renaissance 1500-1600

Age of exploration New wealth Courts are where fashion begins House of Tudor Henry VIII Elizabeth I

before lace

All trimming & edging was Cutwork, drawnwork, pulled thread embroidery Limited to geometric designs Lace is more free-form

Spain to Italy to England

Pointed bodice and split skirt Ruffs Spanish farthingale

Bombast

Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with

True

Queen Elizabeth I is wearing a Medici collar, stomacher, and wheel farthingale

Late Baroque Women

Resurfacing of stiff clothes Stomacher is elongated Split skirt with Petticoats exposed Manteau/Mantua Petticoats Fontange headdress Aprons, Gauntlets, purses

Eschelles

Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called

Plainer fabric, Closer fitting coat and sorter waistcoat, and breeches

The "Modern Man" look includes (18th c)

Empire Dresses

The Robe en Chemise, made of sheer cotton, is the forerunner of the

Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because

1477 Swiss victory over Burgundy

The fashion for "slashing and puffing" was inspired by:

In the 16th century

The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume:

Funnel

This Cavalier is wearing ____ boots Wider as get to knee Sometimes foldover spurs

Fontage Headdress and Mantua (dress) a & b

This Late Baroque woman is wearing a

Polonaise, milkmaid

This dress is worn a la ... and was part of ... style

True

This man is wearing a doublet with a peascod belly and trunk hose

true

Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of Banyans, Pastel colors, Floral motifs

stomacher

Triangular shaped bodice piece Sewn onto front of gown

knitting

Extant pieces from Egypt Revived in Renaissance

venetian women

Fashion illustrations printed 1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)

Italian Renaissance Costume—Women

Two types of dresses 1. One piece 2. Attached bodice and skirt

False

Venetian nobles who wore wide sleeves were less important than those who wore narrow sleeves

Spanish

What style influenced Renaissance fashion?

Codpiece

When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the

American attempts to be fashionable

When the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy" used the term "macaroni" it was making reference to

Petticoats

Which of the following are undergarments today, but were a visible part of outergarments in the 16th century?

Lavish use of opulent fabrics

Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?

The manteau & the vest (a & b)

Which of the following may have derived from Middle Eastern styles?

Farthingales

Which of the following were NOT elements of men's costume during the 16th century in Northern Europe?

all of the above

Which of the following were devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance? a. Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins b. Balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance c. Patches to cover skin blemishes

Embroidery on camica

Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork Italian renaissance

Red high heels and soles

Worn by European royalty Associated with Louis XIV and his Court

The frock coat was

Worn instead of the coat in informal situations, inspired by the English country look, now an accepted option to coat

boot hose

Worn with funnel boots Folded over Showed lace (baroque)

Eleanora de Toledo

from Toledo, Spain Married to Cosimo I de' Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany--Duchess of Florence, Italy Brought Spanish fashion to Italy

whitework

general term for "white on white" embroidery

all of the above

Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were: a. a preference for bleached, blonde hair b. high, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking c. hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead

baroque children

Babies were wrapped in swaddling clothes Age 0 to 6/7, both boys and girls wore skirts "robes" for boys and "dresses" for girls After age 6/7 all genders wore adult styles

Spanish

Baroque period, the ____ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale

tights/hose

Bias cut pieces merged into one garment Front pouch added (becomes codpiece) Laced and tied with small eyelets and points or buttoned

Gowns—Spanish Influence

Bodice becomes more rigid Straight waistline develops V in front

Leading Strings

Broad ribbon or string attached to the shoulders; hung down the back Function: To help hold child upright when learning to walk Fashion: Stylized or fossilized form of pendant sleeves from Middle Ages

True

Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700's at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men

Shoes in Italy were not as long and pointed as in Northern Europe, Women in Italy covered their hair less completely, Men did not adopt the "bowl crop"

Differences between the dress of Italians and inhabitants of Northern Europe during the first half of the 15th century would have included:

Early Baroque Men

Doublet with peplum Huge cuffs Cassock Neckwear Breeches Cavalier hats Boots Baldric Cape, mantle

cavaliers

During english civil war Supporters of King Aristocracy/Royalists Elaborate fabrics and trims

Puritans

During english civil war Want to overthrow king Still wore fashions of day with moderation Roundheads

Late Baroque Men

Elimination of doublet Beginning of modern dress

The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women and The designs in some woven Italian textiles.

Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in (a & c)

Baroque 1600-1715

Flourishing left from Renaissance England, France, Spain competing for riches in New World 1715 death of Louis XIV

False

For the entire 18th century, children were dressed as miniature adults. There was no difference between adult and children's styles.

Louis XIV (14th) "Sun King"

France - late baroque Excessiveness French court influences fashion More decoration , over ornament, stiffer

lace

Free-form luxury fabric *Identify Renaissance by wearing of ____ Indication of wealth Acts of Apparel ---- no one under the rank of knight could wear English and French smuggle it from Belgium

Periwigs

Full, very curly wigs

early baroque women

Gown with 3/4 sleeves Wrist and forearm exposed Split skirt with petticoat - fluffy

true

In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible

Needle Lace

In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch

an acceleration of fashion change

Industrial Revolution led to

True

Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another

parti-colored hose

Italian men adopted the fashion for ________ Like color blocking, pieces are different colors

Shirt or Camica Doublet Tights/hose

Italian renaissance men costume

Late Baroque -1660-1715  Restoration

Kings and Courts are focus of attention England - Restoration of Monarchy 1660 - Charles II from exile in France France - Louis XIV (14th) The Sun King - Death in 1715

cravat

Long strip of linen with lace edges

France and Spain

Louis XIII (13th) - Fashion centered in Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times Defeat of Spanish Armada - Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues

True

Louis XIV "The Sun King" is wearing a periwig, cravat, and red heels on his shoes

Asian and Middle Eastern

Mantua-style gowns for women, men's dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume

Doublet Schaube Bases Hose Slashing & Puffing

N renaissance men Extravagant Richly colored Slashing & puffing Important change is development of trousers/breeches

Indiennes

New cotton textiles from India Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity pastel colors and floral motifs

Engageants

Sleeves on 18th century gowns ended below the elbow with one or more ruffles called

all of the above

Starch was used: a. First in Ancient Egypt b. To maintain shape on collars and ruffs c. In Europe beginning in the Renaissance - Revival comes along with lace

Baldrick

Sword belt (baroque)

Lacemakers

Taught to girls as young as 5 years old Life's work In damp basements with poor lighting Severely affected eyesight and health

False

The "Flea Cravat" was worn to keep fleas off one's body

Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns

The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800's were a result of

The followers of Charles I dressed in elaborate fabrics, lavishly trimmed in lace, wore long, curling hair, and hats with large brims and feather trim, while the followers of Oliver Cromwell wore simple unadorned clothing in somber colors

The political preferences of the two factions in the English Civil War of the 1600's were reflected by their dress, the difference being:

With the Swiss Army

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated:

Petticoat breeches and Rhinegraves

The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called (a & c)

True

The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for court Dress in England

Chopines

These were platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans (made in Florence and influenced Paris fashion)

Rabat

also called a "Puritan" collar

falling band

collar

Golilla

baroque Stands away from neck Supported by "underpropper" Also called whisks Mostly worn by ladies

trunk hose, nether hose

n r men

plunderhose breeches

nr men

medici collar, stomacher, wheel farthingale

nr women

cutwork

raw edges covered with buttonhole stitch

points

renaissance

true

smocks and Short gowns were working class clothing during the 18th century

blackwork

spanish style originated in northern Africa spread to southern Spain with the Moors and onto Europe through Italy also done in red (redwork)

angular

women silhouette N renaissance men = boxy

Camica/Chemise

• Worn next to skin--Undergarment • Camica—shirt—men • Chemise—gown—women