history of costume test 2

the long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf worn by the Byzantine Emperor was:

Called a lorum Called a pallium Probably derived from the toga with the folded bands

Italian influences in styles were brought to France by:

Catherine de Medici, and Italian who married a French king The French invasions of Italy

Trade with China and India

Cotton—lighter/pastel colors Floral motifs

starch

Egyptians used it Revival comes along with lace

Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called:

Eschelles

What was the name in France for the elaborate style of headdress known as a commode in England?

Fontange

Italian styles for men in the 16th century were very much influenced by:

French styles spanish styles

Early Baroque—Women

Gown with ¾ sleeves Wrist and forearm exposed

The word "chopines" means:

High, platform-soled shoes

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that:

His uncle was old fashioned

court dress

Huge paniers Widest in 1740s in England

The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of:

Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns

The development of long, pointed-toed shoes in the 12th century was

Influenced by a local count wanted to hide his bunions

Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because:

It gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus' voyage to the New World

Which garment is called a conch?

Sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulders, with a high, standing collar behind the head.

Extant pieces from Egypt

Revived in Renaissance

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because:

Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century

Polonaise

Skirt puffed up with loops and strings underneath Worn a la Polonaise

Manteau/Mantua

Sleeved bodice with overskirt attached Fabric pulled to back Drawn back like curtains Typical of Late Baroque

Rococo—Women

Softer floral motifs Sheer cotton from India becomes symbol of luxury

the 15th century jacket was worn with:

hose

new cotton textiles from

india

Change in view of ideal beauty

from male to female

lacemakers

-Taught to girls as young as 5 years old -In damp basements with poor lighting

Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in:

-The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women -The designs in some woven Italian textiles

Watteau gowns

-Two types A la Francaise Open pleats -A la Anglaise Pleats stitched down

Fashion illustrations printed

1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)

A ferrionniere was:

A chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located at the center of the forehead

What was a chaperon with a liripipe?

A hood with a long narrow tube of fabric at the back that was attached to a short cape

The word camicia in Italian refers to:

A man's shirt A woman's chemise

Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were:

A preference for bleached, blonde hair High, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking Hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead

Industrial Revolution technology

Acceleration of fashion change

Elimination of doublet

Beginning of modern dress

Crusades start culture contact

Biggest influence on costume in Europe

Which of the following describes the styles in men's clothing that predominated in the first half of the 18th century?

Breeches cut full through the seat, full-skirted outer coats, waistcoats that were almost as long as the outer coat

Tailoring skills were refined during the 14th century once the making of _______ was mastered.

Buttoned closures

Industrial Revolution

Leads to acceleration of fashion change

The mistress of King Louis XV of France who was influential not only in politics, but especially in the fine and decorative arts was:

Madame Pompadour

Middle class begins

Merchants and craftsmen

few new ideas; knowledge

Monasteries Illuminated manuscripts

Robe en chemise

Muslin (usually white) resembles chemise undergarment Soft-looking Forerunner of early 19th c "Empire"waist gowns

New sumptuary laws

New group has money Want luxury goods Effort to prohibit merchants

The pourpoint:

Originated as military dress Had a padded front and attached to hose with strings Was made either with or without sleeves

Influence from India

Painted/printed textiles

fashion centered in

Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times

Rococo—General appearance

Pastel colors, especially for women

Defeat of Spanish Armada

Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues

A style of wearing the cravat that was named after a battle is:

Steinkirk

The availability and interest in cotton fabrics that grew rapidly in Europe and America in the 17th and 18th centuries was a result of:

The expansion of trade with India

Among the developments of the Renaissance that continue in use in present-day life include:

The plays of William Shakespeare Patterns and styles in textile fabrics Styles in furniture

stomacher

Triangular shaped bodice piece Sewn onto front of gown

As all classes of society wore clothing cut in similar ways in the 10th and 11th centuries, class distinctions were evident in:

Tunic length Tunic decoration

Which of the following were NOT devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?

Tweezers to pluck out hair around the forehead to have a fashionably high forehead

How were married and older women distinguished from unmarried younger women in the Middle Ages?

Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered

among the influences on Medieval European life and costume that resulted from the Crusades were:

Use of new types of fabric Use of new foods Byzantine court influences on European styles

the use of sections of different colored fabrics in one garment:

Was called mi-parti Was called parti-color Was often used in special uniforms for servants of important families

embroidery for Italian renaissance

Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork

Methods of communicating fashion information to consumers of the 18th century included:

a. Engraved drawings of fashions b. Fashion dolls dressed in the latest styles c. Advertisements from firms selling fashion items

Which of the following would have been working class clothing during the 18th century?

a. Short gowns b. Smocks

Examples of Asian and Middle Eastern influences on styles in costume during the 18th century would include:

a. Some of the prints and designs in textiles b. Men's dressing gown styles c. Mantua-style gowns for women

Which of the following styles are thought to have been derived from Middle Eastern styles?

a. The manteau b. The vest

A skirted extension of men's jackets, either attached or a separate garment are:

bases

the english and french smuggle lace from

belgium

The material used for stuffing trunk hose and doublets to achieve a fashionable silhouette in the 16th century was called, in England:

bombast

During the 17th century in costume for men, the trunkhose worn over the lower part of the body were replaced by a garment called:

breeches

A pad worn around the waist to hold out wide skirts is called a:

bum roll

The first European production of silk fiber was carried out by the:

byzantines

Which of the following are considered underwear?

chemise and braies

By 1500, the _______ had become a very obvious feature of men's clothing.

codpiece

Which of the following were called braies in the Medieval period?

drawers

Only men of the Byzantine Empire were permitted to wear the paludamentum.

false

Various authors define the cotehardie in different ways, however they all agree that it was worn only by the clergy.

false

cotton was the fabric most used by poor people during the Middle Ages.

false

the custom of wearing black as a sign of mourning was NOT yet established in the Medieval period.

false

lace is very important because

it shows wealth

One of the most important elements of Byzantine costume was:

jewelry

english country dress

lighter colors, cotton

A houppelande and a cotehardie are outergarments worn by:

men or women

Solitaire

ribbon at neck

In which country did members of the royal family continue to wear a farthingale-like garment well into the 17th century even though the style had been abandoned in the rest of Europe?

spain

By the 18th century, the practice of having male tailors make men's suits and coats and women make dresses for women was well established.

true

During the 14th and 15th centuries styles for men and women began to change much more rapidly than had been the case in earlier centuries.

true

Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.

true

In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible.

true

Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another.

true

It was in the textile industry that the first effects of the Industrial Revolution were felt.

true

The Puritans who settled in Massachusetts in the 1600s wore restrained and simple styles, but did not wear clothing that was radically different in other respects from the clothing of other English people of their time.

true

The costume of students of the Middle Ages served as the basis for modern academic gowns.

true

The custom of buttoning men's coats from the left over the right probably originated from the construction of medieval plate armor.

true

female beauty ideal

virgin mary

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated:

with the swiss army