history of costume test 2
the long, narrow, heavily jeweled scarf worn by the Byzantine Emperor was:
Called a lorum Called a pallium Probably derived from the toga with the folded bands
Italian influences in styles were brought to France by:
Catherine de Medici, and Italian who married a French king The French invasions of Italy
Trade with China and India
Cotton—lighter/pastel colors Floral motifs
starch
Egyptians used it Revival comes along with lace
Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called:
Eschelles
What was the name in France for the elaborate style of headdress known as a commode in England?
Fontange
Italian styles for men in the 16th century were very much influenced by:
French styles spanish styles
Early Baroque—Women
Gown with ¾ sleeves Wrist and forearm exposed
The word "chopines" means:
High, platform-soled shoes
If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that:
His uncle was old fashioned
court dress
Huge paniers Widest in 1740s in England
The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of:
Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns
The development of long, pointed-toed shoes in the 12th century was
Influenced by a local count wanted to hide his bunions
Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because:
It gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus' voyage to the New World
Which garment is called a conch?
Sheer, gauze-like veils worn cape-like over the shoulders, with a high, standing collar behind the head.
Extant pieces from Egypt
Revived in Renaissance
The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because:
Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century
Polonaise
Skirt puffed up with loops and strings underneath Worn a la Polonaise
Manteau/Mantua
Sleeved bodice with overskirt attached Fabric pulled to back Drawn back like curtains Typical of Late Baroque
Rococo—Women
Softer floral motifs Sheer cotton from India becomes symbol of luxury
the 15th century jacket was worn with:
hose
new cotton textiles from
india
Change in view of ideal beauty
from male to female
lacemakers
-Taught to girls as young as 5 years old -In damp basements with poor lighting
Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in:
-The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women -The designs in some woven Italian textiles
Watteau gowns
-Two types A la Francaise Open pleats -A la Anglaise Pleats stitched down
Fashion illustrations printed
1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)
A ferrionniere was:
A chain of metal or pearls worn across the forehead with a jeweled decoration located at the center of the forehead
What was a chaperon with a liripipe?
A hood with a long narrow tube of fabric at the back that was attached to a short cape
The word camicia in Italian refers to:
A man's shirt A woman's chemise
Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were:
A preference for bleached, blonde hair High, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking Hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead
Industrial Revolution technology
Acceleration of fashion change
Elimination of doublet
Beginning of modern dress
Crusades start culture contact
Biggest influence on costume in Europe
Which of the following describes the styles in men's clothing that predominated in the first half of the 18th century?
Breeches cut full through the seat, full-skirted outer coats, waistcoats that were almost as long as the outer coat
Tailoring skills were refined during the 14th century once the making of _______ was mastered.
Buttoned closures
Industrial Revolution
Leads to acceleration of fashion change
The mistress of King Louis XV of France who was influential not only in politics, but especially in the fine and decorative arts was:
Madame Pompadour
Middle class begins
Merchants and craftsmen
few new ideas; knowledge
Monasteries Illuminated manuscripts
Robe en chemise
Muslin (usually white) resembles chemise undergarment Soft-looking Forerunner of early 19th c "Empire"waist gowns
New sumptuary laws
New group has money Want luxury goods Effort to prohibit merchants
The pourpoint:
Originated as military dress Had a padded front and attached to hose with strings Was made either with or without sleeves
Influence from India
Painted/printed textiles
fashion centered in
Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times
Rococo—General appearance
Pastel colors, especially for women
Defeat of Spanish Armada
Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues
A style of wearing the cravat that was named after a battle is:
Steinkirk
The availability and interest in cotton fabrics that grew rapidly in Europe and America in the 17th and 18th centuries was a result of:
The expansion of trade with India
Among the developments of the Renaissance that continue in use in present-day life include:
The plays of William Shakespeare Patterns and styles in textile fabrics Styles in furniture
stomacher
Triangular shaped bodice piece Sewn onto front of gown
As all classes of society wore clothing cut in similar ways in the 10th and 11th centuries, class distinctions were evident in:
Tunic length Tunic decoration
Which of the following were NOT devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?
Tweezers to pluck out hair around the forehead to have a fashionably high forehead
How were married and older women distinguished from unmarried younger women in the Middle Ages?
Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered
among the influences on Medieval European life and costume that resulted from the Crusades were:
Use of new types of fabric Use of new foods Byzantine court influences on European styles
the use of sections of different colored fabrics in one garment:
Was called mi-parti Was called parti-color Was often used in special uniforms for servants of important families
embroidery for Italian renaissance
Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork
Methods of communicating fashion information to consumers of the 18th century included:
a. Engraved drawings of fashions b. Fashion dolls dressed in the latest styles c. Advertisements from firms selling fashion items
Which of the following would have been working class clothing during the 18th century?
a. Short gowns b. Smocks
Examples of Asian and Middle Eastern influences on styles in costume during the 18th century would include:
a. Some of the prints and designs in textiles b. Men's dressing gown styles c. Mantua-style gowns for women
Which of the following styles are thought to have been derived from Middle Eastern styles?
a. The manteau b. The vest
A skirted extension of men's jackets, either attached or a separate garment are:
bases
the english and french smuggle lace from
belgium
The material used for stuffing trunk hose and doublets to achieve a fashionable silhouette in the 16th century was called, in England:
bombast
During the 17th century in costume for men, the trunkhose worn over the lower part of the body were replaced by a garment called:
breeches
A pad worn around the waist to hold out wide skirts is called a:
bum roll
The first European production of silk fiber was carried out by the:
byzantines
Which of the following are considered underwear?
chemise and braies
By 1500, the _______ had become a very obvious feature of men's clothing.
codpiece
Which of the following were called braies in the Medieval period?
drawers
Only men of the Byzantine Empire were permitted to wear the paludamentum.
false
Various authors define the cotehardie in different ways, however they all agree that it was worn only by the clergy.
false
cotton was the fabric most used by poor people during the Middle Ages.
false
the custom of wearing black as a sign of mourning was NOT yet established in the Medieval period.
false
lace is very important because
it shows wealth
One of the most important elements of Byzantine costume was:
jewelry
english country dress
lighter colors, cotton
A houppelande and a cotehardie are outergarments worn by:
men or women
Solitaire
ribbon at neck
In which country did members of the royal family continue to wear a farthingale-like garment well into the 17th century even though the style had been abandoned in the rest of Europe?
spain
By the 18th century, the practice of having male tailors make men's suits and coats and women make dresses for women was well established.
true
During the 14th and 15th centuries styles for men and women began to change much more rapidly than had been the case in earlier centuries.
true
Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.
true
In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible.
true
Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another.
true
It was in the textile industry that the first effects of the Industrial Revolution were felt.
true
The Puritans who settled in Massachusetts in the 1600s wore restrained and simple styles, but did not wear clothing that was radically different in other respects from the clothing of other English people of their time.
true
The costume of students of the Middle Ages served as the basis for modern academic gowns.
true
The custom of buttoning men's coats from the left over the right probably originated from the construction of medieval plate armor.
true
female beauty ideal
virgin mary
The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated:
with the swiss army