history of fashion industry test 2

nether stocks

A 16th-century stocking reaching above the knee and worn with upperstocks

Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, Anne of Cleves, Kathryn Howard, and Katherine Parr

6 wives of Henry 8th

1st period of mens wear

1500-1515 the transition from gothic/medieval styles to the Renaissance styles similar to late middle ages in components shoes now round at the toe garments: paltock, stomacher, jerkin, bases

phase 1 of women's wear

1500-1530 transition from middle ages/medieval period chemise still most basic garment for women

2nd period of mens wear

1515-1550 wide, full, puffs, slashes, and panes silhouette broadening--getting wider and wider stuff their clothing to make themselves bigger garments: upper and nether stocks, breeches

phase 2 of womens wear

1530-1575 spanish influenced changed to petticoat and overdress regional style differences were significant for german women fitted bodices with low square or rounded neckines

3rd period of mens wear

1550-1600 narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip trunk hose the silhouette is slimming down garments: pecadils, peascod belly, venetians, open breeches, gallygaskins, culots, bombast, canions

phase 3 of womens wear

1575-1600 growth of skirt, supported by hoop called farthingale function of undergarments started to change purpose from this point on, women's undergarments played a role in shaping the body garments: petticoats, aigillettes, verdugale, spanish farthingale, ropa

1. give a fashionable shape 2. support the hose 3. to provide warmth

3 purposes of the doublet

latchets

A leather thong or strap used to fasten a shoe or sandal on the foot.

"putting out" system

A middleman buys thread, sends to weaver, gets cloth, sends to tailor, gets clothes, sells to cloth shop.

pourpoint

Heavily quilted and padded in key places where sharp parts of the armor contacted the skin, the pour-point was a close-fitting, long-sleeved shirt that buttoned down the front. It had carefully tailored arm sockets to allow complete range of movement for the arms which was key in battle.

sugar loaf

Tall hat with a curved crown that resembles the loaf shape into which refined sugar was made.

houppelande

The female version was long and belted slightly above the natural waistline Excess fabric was held in front of the gown There were several different types of collars shown on the houppelande

economic status

The kind of fabric people wore was important because it showed their ________ _______ (display of wealth)

plastron

a breast plate a stiffened panel with a rounded lower edge attached to a a wide band around the hips. a large pad worn by a fencer to protect the chest. a lancer's breast covering. an ornamental front of a woman's bodice or shirt consisting of colorful material with lace or embroidery, fashionable in the late 19th century. a man's starched shirtfront without pleats.

cote-hardie

a close fitting garment with sleeves worn by both genders for men: tunic of varying length between waist and knee for women: full length waisted garment worn over kirtle. both loose fitting and with sleeves

pantofle

a corksoled pattern covering the front part of the foot, worn in the 16th century backless

bowl crop

a hairstyle that gave the appearance of an inverted bowl around the top of the head; below the cut hair, the neck was shaved

gamurra

a high waisted dress where it often had detachable sleeves.

pomander

a mixture of aromatic substances enclosed in a perforated bag or box and used to scent clothes and linens or formerly carried as a guard against infection

gussets

a piece of material sewn into a garment to strengthen or enlarge a part of it, such as the collar of a shirt or the crotch of an undergarment.

bum roll

a roll tied around the bum or derriere worn by itself or with a spanish farhthingale mention found in QE 1's wardrobe accounts tied around the hips

jerkin

a short velvet or leather jacket, usually sleeveless, similar toa vest/waistcoat, cut low to the waist in front to reveal the doublet beneath, with full skirts to the knee leather jerkins were fairly common and worn by a wide variety of men and at many different events often slashed and punched, both for decoration and to improve the fit

camica

a simple long sleeve smock dress made in linen which was a underdress.

ferroniere

a style of headband that encircles the wearer's forehead, usually with a small jewel suspended in the centre. The original form of the headband was worn in late fifteenth century Italy

Phillip the Good

a super fashion conscious king who created the Burgandy Court, which was "the court to be at" because of how fashionable they were cousins in italy helped create trade routes for fine fabrics large displays of wealth

paltock

a variation of the doublet had a deep v in front sometimes had stomacher of different fabric

housse

a wide skirted overcoat with winged cape sleeved and two flat, tounge-shaped lapels at the neck

dagging

decorative cuts the edges of tippets, hanging sleeves, hems, and hats are often shown with these design elements ornamental cutting of fabric edges, applied to all manners of clothing

english hood

also known as a gable or gable headdress

wheel farthingale

also known as french farthingale could wear without the spanish farthingale feet are showing but ankles are still covered

giornes

an over dress that split at the sides, belted in the waist and it had an empire waist.

reinassance

another word for rebirth

ruff

attached to men's collars towards the middle of the century cut seperately from the shirt layers of lace many different variations grew wider and wider made up of hundreds of pleats and could contain as much as 18 ft of fabric

plunderhosen

baggy all the way down from the waist to the knee, and the baggy fabric hung down to hide the fastening at the knee

venetians

breeches that were wide at the top and tapered to the knee semi fitted wide at the hips and fitted at the knee

busk

can be made out of ivory, wood, and bone inserted down the front of the stay hold the front straight up and down beautifully decorated and personalized

verdugale

construction of whalebone, cane, or steel hoops graduated in size from waist to floor and sewn into a petticoat or underskirt that provided support

stomacher

contrasting color insert

mary, queen of scots

elizabeth's catholic cousin, queen of scotland by birth next in line for the throne (granddaughter of Henry 8) catholics did not recognized Henry 8's marriage to Anne Boleyn, Elizabeth's mother, and considered this woman the queen was a prisoner of England for 19 yrs and the center of numerous plots of Elizabeth's death Elizabeth finally executed her

elizabeth and the chuch

ended religious turmoil reestablished the monarch's supremacy in the church of england restored the Book of Common Prayer instituted a policy of religious moderation

canions

extensions from the trunk hose to the knees or slightly below made in the same color or contrasting to the trunk hose

spanish farthingale

first seen in the last quarter of the 15th century first mentioned as verdugados (spanish for wood) appears to be hoops of cane applied directly to the fabric of the skirt arrived in england from *catherine of aragon*

gollers

german collars that just covered shoulders and bust

aiguillettes

is a cord with metal tips or lace tags, or the decorative tip itself. small jeweled metal points that decorated sleeves by fastening the panes

tippets

hanging pieces of sleeve fabric, were popular for men and women in the 1340's and 50's probably evolved from open or hanging sleeves but, by the mid-14th century, were generally ornamental than functional varied in length from mid forearm to floor length and longer usually depicted as white some made of fur

king richard II

his court was considered extremely refined and fashion-conscious credited with having invented the handkerchief gave jeweled livery badges with his personal emblem of the white hart (deer) to his friends

parti-colored hose

hose of different colors worn at the same time

bombast

how did they maintain their shape??? trunk hose and doublets were heavily padded with this basically they were being stuffed with everything from wood, horsehair, bran, sawdust, etc

wulsthaube

made of decorative or plain cloth over a large construction into some kind of stiff turban german

elizabeth 1

mary tudor's half sister who came to the throne after her death last tudor ruler, dying unmarried and childless recieved a Renaissance education, became a patron of the arts, and came to describe the english renaissance at its height virginia is named after her (the virgin queen)

caul

net that held a woman's hair back embellished with jewels

gown

new name for houppelande, except for england, where it was called a robe A loose bulky overgarment without a waist seam and could be knee length of floor length. It has very wide shoulders with contrasting lapels and was often worn loosely belted at the waist.

huke

originated as a covering for armor, worn over doublet or jacket open at the sides, full garment hung from the shoulders to the thigh, and sometimes belted in to form deep pleats, worn by upper-class men shaped similarly to the tabard

livery

otherwise known as chain of office is a collar or heavy chain, usually of gold, worn as insignia of office or a mark of fealty or other association in Europe from the Middle Ages onwards

galligaskins

otherwise known as slops, gaskins, gally slops narrow at the waist and broader at the bottom, end at mid-thigh to the knee

jacket

replaced the cote-hardie and the houppelande were worn over hose usually the outermost garment for torso and arms puffy sleeves with a skirt at the bottom many only just covered the hips the last half of the 1400''s--> jackets grew wider at the shoulders

mary tudor

rose to the throne after king Edward's death persecuted protestants "bloody mary"

slashing

reached it height between 1520 to 1535 panes made use of narrow strips of fabric

corset/round cape

referred to a round cape used by men that buttoned on the right shoulder and left the right arm free or closed at the center with a chain or ribbon by 17th century traditional meaning

chopines

seen in 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries the most associated with these is Venice would wear these platform shoes on so their dresses wouldn't get in the dirt, mud, and sewage from the ground

bases

seperate skirts that could be attached to a doublet or jerkin could be military--worn over armor worn in civilian dress into mid-century and over armor for a longer period of time made w/ gores that were lined and stiffened by various methods

guardaroba

set of clothing made up of three garments: two layers of indoor clothing and a mantle for outdoors.

conch

sheer gauzelike veil so fine that in some portraits it can barely be seen, worn capelike over shoulders, at back of neck was attached to a wing like construction that stood up like a high colar behind the head-Queen Elizabeth

set-in sleeve

sleeves sewn onto the garment, as opposed to being an extension of the garment.

pecadils

small, square flaps were found just below the waist on doublets

phrygian bonnet

soft felt or wool conical headdress fitting closely around the head and characterized by a pointed crown that curls forward

supportasse

stiffened support for a ruff or collar also called an underpropper

chemise

still the most basic garment for women still, primarily made from linen square necklines became much more common often showed the edge of the chemise

henry the eighth

the head of the Anglican Church (the new church of england) The Act of Supremacy gave him full control of the Church of England and severed all ties w Rome married 6 times only had 1 male heir, Edward, who was still a frail child when he died

houppelande a mi-jambe

the houppelande, cut to fall to the mid-calf.

hennin

the most well known headdress of the time period in the shape of a cone or "steeple" originated at the Burgundian court a cap with a wire frame and covered with fabric had a veil on top

codpiece

the pouch at the front of men's joined hose could be stuffed for a larger crotch

doublet/gipon

the pourpoint became known as this worn over the shirt/chemise, and the length became shorter not always visible in order to save money, men might use cheaper fabric on the parts that didn't show also known as a farsetto in Italy

peascod belly

the stomach of the doublet

poulaine

their most extreme form will be seen in the last part of the 15th century put on or over a shoe when it was really muddy outside

chaperon

this hat was particularly popular in the 14th century made in all different types of fabric went through several transitions and variations also seen with a long, mostly decorative tail behind it this tail was called a liripipe worn by men and women

trunk hose

upper hose and nether hose had evolved into a large, padded breech joined to nether or lower socks

pair of bodies

usually two pieces that laced on the sides commonly used for the stiffened undergarment gets the term bodice from

paltock

version of the soudblet, cut with a deep V at front, sometimes had filler (stomach) of contrasting color inserted under the V

culots

very short didn't really see them outside of court not practical

hose

were worn by women of all social classes women's hose usually only reached to the knee and were held in place by garters for men, legs became more exposed throughout the century (entire legs!) had eyelets to lace together with the doublet

v neck

what collar style became popular mid-century?

pomegranate and artichoke

what foods were seen in floral patterns on clothing?

stays

while chemise continued as the undermost garment, women's underwear now took on the function of providing shape to the clothes 3 layers ties at the shoulders laced up the front and the back

open breeches

wide and full throughout type of breeches that were worn together with separate stockings

duckbills

wide shoes with decorations of slashing with puffs of fabric pulled through the openings