Lashes Chapter 3: Best Practices
Clean up technique
Removing loose lifted or poorly bonded extensions
Separation technique
Removing two or more lashes stuck together
Failing to bond shortest natural lash with short extensions
Result in a lash line that appears sparse, unnatural and incomplete
Sophy Merszei
Developed more reliable adhesives, improving efficiency and client satisfaction
Telogen
12mm-16mm
Anagen hairs
5mm-8mm
Goal is to
60-90 minutes for a full set after 1 year of practice
Catagen
9mm-12mm
Sophia Navarro
Her research, experimentation, and repetition offered dramatic improvements in materials and procedures
Stone appears smooth, it actually has a porous surface which is difficult to keep sterile
Jade stone
Always consider
Length and diameter appropriate for the growth stage of each individual lash
Extension to natural baby lash
Position tips of tweezers to pop lashes apart
Combination cluster of extension and natural eyelashes
Stuck together
Most effective application of eyelash extension relies upon
The eyelash growth cycle to maximize positive results
Dry removal
The twist and peel technique
Longevity
Time between when lashes begin to naturally shed requiring touchup
Manual drying bulb
Used to force air over recently attached extension
Extension to extension
Ways natural and extension lashes can stick together
Shocked glue
White residue from direct application of water
7 requirements for successful application
• Create positive long-term results • Ensure desirable immediate results • Reduce the risk of adverse reactions • Complete a quick and comfortable application for the client • Apply the maximum number of extensions possible within the allotted time. The goal is to bond every lash • Spend a reasonable amount of time on the application for each client • Do no damage to the natural eyelashes
3 length bonding technique
• Short- Growing (Anagen) • Medium- Resting (Catagen) • Long- Mature (Telogen)
Glove technique
• adhesive on knuckle • time management strategy • ensures adhesion doesn't dry before placed
5 reasons for bonded technique
• allow extensions to look their best throughout the month • decrease amount of work required during touchup • allow all the natural lashes to be bonded for maximum thickness • allow shortest natural eyelashes to fill in the gaps to the lash line • allow natural eyelashes to grow, rest, and shed naturally
Practice good posture
• clear view of each eyelash follicle • need to see where base of extension is resting • legs under table • abdomen flat against table
Improper styles
• do not select extensions based solely on the clients desires without explaining the options and potential risks • match growth cycle phase of natural lash to extensions
Table time
• full set: 2 hours • touch up: 1 hour
Elastomeric
• having elastic properties of natural rubber • Returns to original shape after being stretched twisted or squeezed • Non-elastomeric cyanoacrylate can crack after a week or two so they are poor choice for lash extensions
After 4 weeks (50% of the extensions remain)
• involves bonding extensions to new growth • removing any lifting extensions • more complex than a new application
Three examples of poorly bonded lashes that require cleanup
• loose or lifting base • a separating or split end from the natural lash an extension • an extension with beads of adhesive and air pockets along the entire length of the lash
Two key factors for good long-term results
• peeling and separating • cleaning any loose extensions
Twist and peel
• remove loose lashes that will lift off • Remove unbounded lashes that could scratch or irritate • eliminate need for liquid remover @ touch up tine
Touch-ups
• replacing lashes that have died, shed and detached from the eyelids • usually take place monthly • also called a refill
For every four weeks you
• separate • twist and peel • apply new extensions • finished touch up • removing all with removal solution • replacing bi-weekly • "resting" periodically
Removing an undesirable extension (alternate technique)
• use removal solution that dissolves the eyelash adhesive • lashes and surrounding skin must be cleaned with non-oily eye makeup remover • Time consuming technique to use for single offending extension
Eyelash extension techniques
•Separation is a critical part of delivering high-quality results •Early methods failed to include this very important step • never skip the cleanup step