Modern Fashion Trends Exam 1

Inverness Coat

1/2 cape

Cage Crinoline

1857, hoop skirt, contributed to popularity of wide skirts

Bustle

1870-78, full, waterfall 178-83, sheath, back of knees 1883-90, rigid, shelf-like

Art Nouveau

A decorative style of art, popular in Europe and America from the 1880s to the 1930s. This style is usually characterized by flowing lines, flat shapes, and vines and flowers. (brought about by trade with Japan, used by Jules Cheret)

Surrealism

An artistic movement that displayed vivid dream worlds and fantastic unreal images. Inspired by Freud and the subconscious mind.

Birth of Fashion Brands

California Gold Rush (1848), Levi Strauss Jeans, Stetson hats

Art Deco

Descended from Art Nouveau, this movement of the 1920s and 1930s sought to upgrade industrial design in competition with "fine art" and to work new materials into decorative patterns that could be either machined or handcrafted. Characterized by streamlined, elongated, and symmetrical design. Inspired by cubism and the machine age.

Delphos dress

Fortuny, Ancient Greek inspired

White Linen Suit

Jay Gatsby, worn by wealthy men in the summer

Fortuny

Known for pleated Delphos dresses and handsome fabrics. Not inside Paris fashion circles

Tuxedo

Prince Edward wore informal jacket to dinner, fell in love with American lady, lady had a husband, Edward invited them to dinner, learned about dinner jacket, wore one, brought it back to US, lived in Tuxedo Park, therefore Tuxedo is born

L-85 Regulations

Restricted the amount of fabric that could be used to construct clothing during wartime, exceptions were made for weddings and burials clothes.

Edwardian Style

S shared women silhouette 1900-1908, bishop sleeves, narrow waist, full bosom

Paul Poiret

Self-designated himself as "King" of fashion from 1904-1924. Banned the corset but shackled the legs with the hobble skirt. Also made an impact with extreme Orientalism. Introduced harem pants. Erte: fashion illustrator.

Hawaiian Shirts

Shirts printed in vivid colors that made a strong impact on menswear in the late 1940's. Made popular when a flight to Hawaii was opened up by airlines.

Lingerie Dress

The white cotton or linen dress, ornamented with tucks, ruffles, and lace, resembled the frilly lingerie of the period

English drape suit

a full cut suit worn by men in the late 1930's maintained the basic elements of jacket, vest and trousers.

Hobble Skirt

a style of skirt so narrow at the hem as to impede walking, popular in the 1910s (1908-1914) empire waistline, made popular by Paul Poiret

Bobby Soxers

adolescent girls who wore short socks, known as bobby socks in the 40s.

Elsa Schiaparelli

artistic fashion pieces of humor, lobster dress high-heel pump hat, "shocking pink" surrealist art movement, worked with Salvador Dali

Leg-of-mutton sleeves

as back fullness diminished, sleeves grew larger, hour glass figure

Coco Chanel

casualization of women's clothing, more androgynous clothing, big influence in Hollywood and film

Cloche

close fitting hat worn over short hairstyles in the 20's

WWI Fashion

clothing more practical, less encumbering, (women worked men's jobs) skirts shortened and widened, military influences evident in mens and women's clothing

Madeleine Vionnet

created bias cut (fell more naturally, flipped cloth)

Robe de Style

evening dress with dropped waistline and full skirt, alternative 20's silhouette, Jeanne Lanvin

Civil War Fashion Technologies

interchangeable parts, mass production, machine stitched shoes

Zoot Suit

men's clothing of extreme cut typically consisting of a thigh-length jacket with wide padded shoulders and baggy, pleated pants with narrow cuffs. Was considered unpatriotic during war, commonly worn in urban areas. Was against L85 regulations.

Charles Worth

opened House of Worth, started Haute Couture

Sportswear in the thirties

ready to wear, leisurewear, made to watch sports

Oxford Bags

trousers with excessively wide legs that could be slipped on over the knickers. Worn as an alternative by men at Oxford who wanted to wear trousers to class.

Bloomers

women tried to reform traditional crinoline, wanted a bloomer dress with hoop support