Study set for Module 15

Beaches are designed to grow and shrink.

True

If a shoreline remains stable over time, an irregular coast will be transformed into a smoother, straighter coast.

True

Sea levels have been rising over the last several thousand years because of the melting of Pleistocene ice sheets, which has generated submergent coastlines.

True

The effect of the Moon on tides is about twice that of the Sun.

True

What is the wave base?

Water depth equal to 1/2 the distance between successive waves

Which of the following coastal features is not a characteristic of a submergent coastline?

Wave-cut platform

Energy is regularly transported through the water in the form of _______________, which are often responsible for changing the shape of a coastline.

Waves

All of the following statements about beach nourishment are true except __________.

beach nourishment can only be applied to submergent beaches

A longshore current generally runs __________.

parallel to the coastline

A coastline that is being flooded, eroded back, or is otherwise receding is referred to as a(n) __________ coastline.

submergent

Coastlines are affected by all of the following except __________.

temperature

A ________ is a shoreline "hard stabilization" feature that, oriented parallel to the shore, protects shorelines from the pounding of waves by creating an area of quiet water behind it.

Breakwater

Barrier islands can be protected from storms by the construction of buildings, which provide weight to hold the sand in place.

False

Because of gravitational influence of the Moon on the tides, the rotation of the earth actually speeds up a little each year.

False

Coastal processes are of interest to geologists, but affect relatively few people since less than 10% of the world's population lives within 10 km of a sea coast.

False

Which of the following is NOT a flooded coastal environment?

Floodplain

Which of the following will not occur as the result of longshore currents?

Fracturing and abrasion of rock

Because of wave refraction, erosion along an irregular coastline is greatest in the ________________; while deposition is greatest in the ______________; with the net result being that it straightens out the coastline.

Headlands; Embayments

Which of the following is not a landscape feature created and/or maintained by the longshore current?

Hot Spot Islands

Which of the following is NOT a method by which sediment can be added to the beaches?

Isostatic processes

The collective movement of beach materials along the coast is called ___________________?

Littoral Transport

________ occur(s) when waves that approach the beach at an angle and produce a net sediment transport direction that is parallel to the shore.

Longshore currents

A steep beach slope result in a ____________ breaker, which cause erosion; while gentle slope results in ___________ breaker that causes deposition.

Plunging; Spilling

Which of the following is NOT a method by which sediment can be removed from the beaches?

Rivers

Three of the following statements about coastal deltas are correct. Which of them is incorrect?

Sea level rise will protect coastal deltas

What feature is associated with an island just offshore of a beach?

tombolo

What is one feature that is best developed along emergent coastlines?

wave-cut platform