textiles chapt 17

embossed

- finish in which a localized surface glazing of thermoplastic fibers is achieved or a 3 dimensional effect is created to imitate a more elaborate structure -permanent is resin or heat-set -in dry process finish is temporary -apparel and interiors -texture and hand finish

true moire

-2 layers of unbalanced plain weave rib fabric (taffeta) placed face to face so the ribs of top layer are slightly off grain to bottom layer -stitched together or held together and fed into smooth heated-metal-roll calender

padding machine

-applies dyes and finishing chemicals in either liquid or paste form to fabric -done by passing fabric through the solution, under guide roll, and between 2 padding rolls -lots of tension gives fabric good penetration resistance -uses less water becoming more popular

flocking

-bonding of very short surface fibers onto a fabric to produce an imitation-pile appearance

crepeing

-compacting process that softens fabric hand -fed into machine by special blade at a faster rate than is removed from the machine -can create all-over texture or a localized plisse effect and add comfort stretch with soft drape to apparel fabrics

hand builders

-compound that softens hand -apparel and bedding better wrinkle resistance, improved durability with silicone softeners -enzyme softeners used because more environmentally friendly

embossed fabrics

-created by applying design with heated engraved calenders -often print cloths are embossed to imitate seersucker, crepe, or other structural designed fabrics

puckered surface

-created by partially dissolving surface of a nylon or polyester fabric -as fabric dries it shrinks and creates a puckered surface used primarily in apparel -created on nylon and polyester fabrics by printing them with a chemical that causes the fibers to shrink slightly when dry

miltihead embroidery

-creates flat or pile embroidery -machines have several sewing heads operated by computer system -versatile and can work with almost any thread, ribbon, strand or fabric -used for logos and designs on finished items

sheared

-cuts away protruding fiber or yarn ends to achieve a level pile, surface nap, or sculptured effect -machine is similar to lawn mower -waste is now reused for short mixed content fiber -may create smooth surface or a patterned or a sculptured affect by flattening portions of the pile with an engraved roller, shearing off areas that remain erect, steaming fabric to raise the flattened and now taller portions

moire calendering

-describes a finish that produces a watermarked or wood-grain texture on rib or unbalanced plain-weave fabrics like taffeta

moire with embossed metal roll

-embossed roll has moire pattern engraved on it -roll passes over ribbed fabric, ribs have flattened in areas and pattern is created -if its a thermoplastic and roll is heated the finish is permanent -pattern on roll determines pattern achieved -repeat of pattern related to diameter of roll

Schreiner calender

-etches hundreds of fine lines on a fabric's surface to increase cover, as in tricot, or to add a subtle luster as in sateen -temporary and gone after first wash unless its resin and thermoplastic then the finish is permanent -scattered light and deep luster rather than a shine -flattens yarns to reduce space between them ad increase smoothness and cover it can upgrade low quality fabric -used on cotton for apparel and on nylon tricot to increase cover

enzyme washes

-fabric finish that uses cellulase enzyme to remove surface fuzz from cellulosic fabrics -similar to chemical washes -permanent effect on surface of fabric making a softer hand -removes surface fuzz, reduces pilling, decreases fabric weight, and reduces strength by 10% -little negative environmental effect compared to chemical washes

plisse

-fabric usually finished from cotton-print cloth by printing on a caustic-soda (sodium hydroxide) paste that shrinks the fabric and creates a 3D effect - stripe that is printed is usually darker in piece-dyed goods because the sodium hydroxide increases the dye absorbency -as shrinkage occurs untreated stripes pucker -shrinkage difference in count between stripes -texture change in permanent but can be steamed to flatten a little -similar to seersucker, and embossed fabrics in appearance and cost

burned-out

-fiber blend fabric -1 fiber is dissolved in a selected area to create a pattern -can be flat or pile weaves -after solvent is removed from fibers in areas, its washed, (water has to be treated before discharge) some can be reused

beetling

-finish for linen or linenlike fabrics -yarns flattened to create a fabric that looks more regular and tighter -contemporary uses thermoplastic and resin making it permanent -used for demask, crash, and other linenlike fabrics for apparel and interior

fulling

-finish of woven or knitted wool fabrics that produce a tighter, more compact fabric by a carefully controlled felting process -improves appearance, hand, thickness, softness, body, and cover -done by moisture, heat, and friction in a very mild controlled felting process -denser and compact in warp and filling

coronized

-finish specific to fiberglass to assist in yarn production and printing -heat setting, dyeing, and finishing glass fiber in one continuous operation -greater wrinkle resistance and softer draping -used for window treatments -heat set so glass becomes more flexible so they can bend around one another in woven fabric

abrasive washes

-finish that abrades a small portion of fabric's surface to soften its hand to produce a slightly worn look in the finished product - can be called stone washed, sanded, sand- or mud-washed silk, and sand washed nylon

chemical wash

-finish which the fiber surface is modified in some way by a chemical -often used as a means of softening fabric hand, increasing comfort, or modifying fabric appearance -alkalis, oxidizing agents, bleaches, and others specific for treatment -partially damage fabrics -used for fashion denims, comfort polyesters, and washed silks -(acid wash ) names can be attached from this finish

texture and hand

-finishes modify fabric texture, add components that greatly alter fabric's original texture or alter feel of fabric -embossed -pleated -puckered surface -plisse -flocked -embroidered -expanded foam -sheared -brushed -napped -creeping -fulled -beetled -coronized -emerizing, sueding, or sanding -abrasive, chemical, or enzyme wastes -silk boil-off -caustic treatment -hand builders

additive finishes

-finishing chemical is added to the fabric to produce texture, luster, embossed designs, and abrasion ressistance in the fabric

caustic treatment

-finishing step for some polyester fabrics to produce a more natural hand and comfortable fabric -used to create a synthetic apparel fabric with a hand and texture like silk -fabric is completely relaxed to achieve maximum crimp -better mobility, slight loss in tensile strength and abrasion resistance -more hydrophilic and more comfortable -heat sets to remove wrinkles; treatment to dissolve 5-18%, then completely relaxed

brushing

-finishing step that removes fiber ends from a fabric's surface; common with cut pile fabrics -produces up and down direction for pile and nap fabrics like corduroy

moire fabrics

-have wood-grain or watermarked appearance and are use for apparel, inerior textiles, and window coverings -2 techniques used 1. true moire and 2. an embossed metal roller is used

embossed calender

-heated, hallow engraved-metal roll and a solid roll twice the size of the engraved roll -fabric drawn between 2 rollers and embossed with the design -done on flat or pile fabrics flat is easiest to produce -difference in luster bu not texture

applied/ surface design

-is an aesthetic finish -applied to fabric with the express purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand, or other aesthetic dimension of the fabric -quicker and less expensivethan incorporating desing as fabric is produced -applied to surface of fabric

sizing/starching

-is starch, resin or gelatinous substance added to warp yarns in preparing them for weaving and fabrics to increase body and abrasion resistance -also refers to process of adding sizing compounds to yarns before weaving -adding sizing material to fabric to add weight or body -normally lower quality fabrics -resin or heat set it is permanent/ water based it leaves after 1st wash

nap

-layer of fiber ends raised from the ground weave of fabric by mechanical brushing action -these fabrics are literally made by this finish

napping

-less expensive than most ways for creating 3D fabric -finish which fiber ends are brushed to the surface to produce a softer hand -produces appealing fabrics -doesn't indicate fabric quality -can be plain or twill weave or knit -easy to see fabric grain

drape finishes

-make fabric stiffer or more flexible -transparent crisp -burned out -sizing/starching -weighting

expanded foam

-permanent surface texture or pattern created on fabric by printing -durable but issues with pressing -some dont age well, foam can yellow

friction calender

-produces highly glazed surface -type of calendering in which one cylinder rotates more quickly than the other, shining or polishing the fabric surface; it is used to produce polished cotton with or without a resin -if its done with starch and waxes it is temporary -if its does with resin it is durable -passed through solution and partially dried, then calendered, metal rollers polish or glaze

Luster finishes

-refers to way the light is reflected from the fiber or fabric surface -fabric treatment that changes the light reflectance characteristics of the fabric -done by calendering -types include: glaze, cire, plasticize, moire, schreiner, and embossed

boil-off

-removes sericin in silk (30% in silk fabric) -can be used to describe cleaning of cotton fabrics during routine or preparation finishes -process to remove sericin from silk fabric and create a lively supple hand, or removal of wax resist from batik -creates looser and more mobile fabric structure -if yarn is relaxed when sericin is removed it causes crimp -looseness like slinky -if fabric is under tension the crimp is much less, and duller in spring

cire finish

-similar to glazed finish -process where thermoplastic fabric is calendered with 1 roll hot enough to slightly melt and flatten the fiber surfaces -hot rolls create greater polish -taffetta, satin, hot friction calender to give high gloss

subtractive finishes

-something is removed from the fabric during finishing -finish permanence depends on the process, fiber content, and type of finish itself

embroidered fabrics

-stitching flat surface yarns to a fabric to create a pattern -by hand or machine -shuttle and multihead -shuttle does all over surface -schiffli earlier machines that did all over -contemporary uses machines to control pattern -very durable, often last longer than ground fabric -fabric more expensive -possible of off grain

emerizing, sueding, or sanding

-surface-abrasion finish applied to alter a fabric's appearance, hand, and drape -peach skin -applied to washed fabrics before they are heat set or dyed -too much can cause rips or tears in the fabric -damages fabric -need to be handled carefully -can be applied to silk, nylon, polyester, and cotton blended with nylon or polyester

pleated

-texture and hand finish -made using variation of embossed -calender is type of embossing calender producing 3D pleats in the fabric -embossed fabric where pleats are formed during finishing and heat-set into fabric -paper-pattern technique more costly hand process produces wider variety of designs -machine-pleating less expensive nut limiting in design

parchmentizing

-transparent effects in cotton fabrics for apparel are produced by treatment with sulfuric acid -acid finish for cotton fabrics that produces a thinner fabric with a crisper hand than the original fabric -used to produce organdy -carefully controlled, tendering could happen -types all over and localized

weighting

-treatment of silk with metallic salts to increase fabric's weight, hand, and dye affinity; may result in accelerated degradation of the silk

eyelet

-type of embroidered fabric with a thread pattern around and connecting small holes in fabric

backfilling machine

-variation of padding machine -applies finish to one side only (normally back) -uses less water becoming more popular

plasticize finish

-very thin layer of polymer added to a dyed fabric to create a shiny synthetic surface -often applied to heavier weight fabrics more hand and slicker surface -soil resistant and water-repellent -most often used for apparel

tendering

-weakening of fibers due to exposure to degradants or a deleterious interaction between fiber and dye or finish

aesthetic finishes

change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics -an applied design -can be grouped by change produced: luster, drape, texture, and hand -can influence name of end fabric -use of chemicals, energy, and processing of waste