Chapter 11: Sizing and Fit Specifications

Suits/Jackets/Coats: TRADITIONAL

-Reflects a more rectangular body cut, with the more typical 6-7 inch drop -Slim styling through the slacks

SizeUSA

- A 2003 anthropometric research study -Found four U.S female body shapes that represent 89% of population -Rectangle: 46% -Spoon/Pear: 21% -Inverted Triangle: 14% -Hourglass: 8%

Suits/Jackets/Coats: ATHLETIC

-Reflects a more tapered from chest to waist -Includes more ease in the thigh area to accommodate a more muscular structure

Suits/Jackets/Coats: CONTINENTAL

-Reflects a more tapered style, with up to a 10 inch drop to the waist -Slim styling through the slacks

Spec Pack: Technical Specs (2 basic formats)

-A list of exact measurements of the garments for each size to be produced called GRADED MEASUREMENTS -A set of incremental measurements that direct the amount to add or subtract from each size from the sample garment called GRADE RULES -Not size charts as on retail websites

Set:

-A smooth fit with no unwanted wrinkles -Unintended wrinkles mean it is too small or too large in the area where the fabric pulls or sags -Diagonal wrinkles tend to point to areas where a garment is too snug -Consumers will tolerate a closer set in knits bc the snugness does not infringe on body movement

Boy's

-Ages 7 to 11 with developing bodies at an average weight -Retailers typically carry 8-20 -Few manufacturers include slim and husky categories

Latest Advances

-Availability of new scanned body measurement data -Computerized modeling capabilities

Children's Sizing

-Based on age group -But consumers should base purchase on height and weight

Pants

-Based on two basic measurements: waist girth and inseam

Children's

-Children out of diapers -Sizes are unisex from 2 to 6X or 7 -Categorized by height and weight -Size ranges for children have no available body measurement data

Toddlers

-Children who are walking but not toilet trained -2T, 3T, and 4T -At present size ranges for children and toddlers have no available body measurement data

Key Points to Measure on Tops

-Collar circumference or minimum neck stretch in knits -Bust or chest circumference -Armhole, sleeve opening, and sleeve length -Center back length

Young Men

-Designed for those whose builds have not reached full maturity -Sizes are labeled with the same number or letter designations as the parallel men's products

Furnishings

-Dress shirts: sized on a two number system based on the neck and sleeve length -Casual shirts/sweaters/underwear/pajamas: sized by chest, labeled S,M,L,XL

History of Women's Apparel Sizing

-Early 1900s, firms producing garments for catalog sale needed consistency -Sizing charts developed for young and mature women -Voluntary Guidelines: no mandatory sizing standards int he US -Government turned charts over to the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

Customer Expectations of Fit are Influenced by:

-Fashion trends and style -Fabrics (texture, weight, drape and hand) -Context (social, cultural, political, other issues) -Intended function of garment -Target consumers

First Sizing System

-First Full Sizing System in US: published in 1948 -Based on anthropometric data collected by military -Geared toward white women under 55 -Revised standard in 1971: released to address lack of ethnic diversity and age group representation -In 2001 ASTM released another update

Summary of Sizing

-First pattern= sample size -Grade= difference -Size Charts= body measurements

Girl's

-Fit girls of ages 7 to 11 years with average weight -Retailers typically carry sizes 7 to 14 -Tween market has become significant growth market segment at retail -Plus sizes

Suits/Jackets/Coats: PORTLY

-For men with an expanded midsection girth compared to chest and shoulder width, with a 4-inch drop

Women's Petites

-Height: 5'4 and under -Build: Larger girth in torso -Sizes range from 12WP-20WP -Consumers are hard-pressed to find many styling options available at retail

Petites

-Height: 5'4" and under -Build: Average -Sizes range from 2P-20P -Retail stores typically stock 2P-14P -Reflects girth measurements similar to misses sizes but scaled down in height -Average female is 5'4" 157 lbs which puts her at the larger end of the petite size, this suggest significant additional market potential

Women's Plus

-Height: 5'5 or above -Build: Larger girth, especially in torso -Sizes range from 14W-32W -Retail stores typically stock sizes 14W-24W

Misses

-Height: 5'5" -Build: Average -Size range from 2-20 -Retail stores typically stock sizes 6-16 -More than half of the US female population wears a size 14 or larger -The bust size for a size 14 is 40 3/8 inches in new ASTM misses chart

Juniors

-Height: 5'6 -Build: shorter torso, longer limbs, less mature body than misses -Sizes range from 1-19 -Retail stores stock typically 5-13 -Reflects both a younger body type and a younger styling aesthetic

Talls

-Height: Above average up to 6'1" -Build: Average -Products are sold along with misses, especially in bottoms categories

Circumference Grading

-How much the garments are to increase in overall girth from one size to the next -Girth measurements are typically the most changed from one size to the next

Size Migration

-Inconsistent sizing among different apparel manufacturers

Fit Models

-Individuals who represent the age and build of target customer, and who conform to the intended master size of the original design

Suits/Jackets/Coats:

-Labeled first with the chest girth measurement followed with height classification such as: short, regular, tall, extra tall -Majority of men wear a 38 to 44 size based on 2 inch increments

Now that the First Pattern fits correctly, now what?

-Master Production Pattern -Grading to create production patterns for all sizes to be sold

Maternity

-Niche market developed due to consumer desire for fashionable clothes

Functional Ease

-Or wearing ease, is the amount added to body measurements to compensate for body movement -Required in order for the garment to actually be worn -Varies depending on: 1. Garment type 2. Fabric (woven, knit, stretch, rigid) 3. Intended use of garment itself

Forms

-Partial body shapes placed on a stand to use in patternmaking and fitting activities

Vanity Sizing

-Placing a smaller size label on a larger size garment

Grading:

-Process of scaling the master size of a garment to the range of sizes to be produced -Automated pattern grading using Lectra's Modaris pattern grading software

Inseam

-Ranges from 29-34 inches -Taken on the inside of the leg from the crotch seam to the bottom of the hem of the pants

Grain:

-Reflects the direction of the threads in the fabric used in the garment -On-grain: lengthwise and crosswise threads meet at 90 degrees, hands evenly and symmetrical -Off-grain: garment may twist or hang crooked -Bias: (45 degrees) the property that provides the unique softness and fluidity of many draped garments

Sizing Update:

-Released 2001 ASTM -Vertical slippage -Thickening of waist -Tendency of head and shoulders to roll forward causing broadening of back and shorter bodice

Men's Sizing

-Sizing nomenclature has traditionally represented actual body measurements more closely -Since 1990s menswear has experienced increasing instances of vanity sizing, especially in casual pants

Other Merchandising Categories for Women

-Small (S) -Medium (M) -Large (L) -Extra Large (XL) (Typically based on chest measurements, reflects misses sizes from 6-8 through 16-18) -Intimate wear: night wear, lingerie -"One size fits all"

Infants

-Styled for babies from birth to 18 months -0-3 months, 6 months, 12 months, 18 months, 24 months -Designed for height and weight not age

Design Ease

-The amount added to the combined body and functional ease measurements to make the garment produce the look desired by the designer -Varies significantly depending on: 1. the individual garment style 2. the fashion of the time

Width Grading

-The amount of measurement added to a cross body area such as shoulder point to shoulder point -Tend to be quite small in comparison to other measurements

Grade Rules:

-The amounts added or subtracted from each measurement as it changes from one size to another -Begin during development of sample specs -Final graded measurements during production spec

Mass Customization

-The application of mass production techniques to the production of a customer-configured garment -The recent advent of body scanning and computerized alteration programs now make this a viable possibility

Sizing:

-The assignment of a particular body type into categories that reflect the body measurements of those in that size group -Women's sizing issues appear more complex because of: 1. Changing fashions 2. Arbitrary sizing nomenclature 3. Evolving body types

Sample Size

-The body measurements from which the size range is developed -Misses size: 6, 8, 10 typically used -Men's size: 40R

Ease

-The difference between the body measurements of the intended wearer and the measurements of the garment

Grade Definition

-The difference from one size to the next in a range

Drop Definition

-The difference in the circumference between the chest and waist measurements -6-10 inch drop is common, depending on the cut of the suit

Grade Rule Tables:

-The increments between sizes for each of the grade rules -Linear or non-linear

Line:

-The manner in which the structural lines of a garment conform to the lines of the body -Straight seams should hang straight and perpendicular to the floor -Curved lines in a garment should follow the contour of the body

Rise

-The measurement from the top of the inner leg seam at the crotch to the top of the waist

Length Grading

-The measurement to be added to the length of a garment pieces as sizes vary in height -Critical to development of apparel in petite and tall size ranges

Garment Fit

-The relationship between an individual and the clothing worn by them

Sizing Specifications

-The trend towards outsourcing production means accurate measurement specifications are vital to ensure the desired size and shape -Spec Pac: 1. Sizing: access to sizing standards, grade rules 2. Fit: finished garment measurements and tolerances

Metric and Sizing

-US is one of the only 3 nations that uses metric system -ISO(international organization for standardization) has developed its own standards that are helpful when working with off shore vendors or market good outside of US

Uneven Grading

-Used when it is determined that the target customer is shaped somewhat differently than the standards in sizing chart -Also known as nonlinear grading

Waist Girth

-Usually even sizes from 28 to 40 in 2 inch increments

Key Points to Measure on Bottoms

-Waist -Hip -Front and back rise -Functional zipper opening -Pant inseam -Center back skirt length

Balance:

-When the right and left sides of the body appear to be even -Bad balance can be caused by errors in patternmaking or by inaccurate construction techniques -Computer patternmaking tools provide solutions for these lines

Functional Ease: Woven & Knit

-Woven fabrics: 1.) 2.5 inches in the bust 2.) 1 inch in the waist 3.) 3 inches in the hip -Knit fabrics: 1.) Requirements are significantly less 2.) Spandex provides tighter fit with less ease needed

New Apparel or Brand Company Process Requires:

1. Determine how many sizes and what categories 2. Which size will be your sample size and what are the body measurements 3. What grade rule will you use? 4. Establish body measurements for each size -This becomes your library of sizing standards used in every spec pack -It's confidential, never change unless customer changes -Sample size->Grading to size in ranges->Sizing Standards

Five Elements of Fit

1. Grain 2. Set 3. Line 4. Balance 5. Ease

Every new garment style process requires:

1. Sample size pattern block= first pattern 2. Adjusting measurements of block to create new styling 3. Make sample garment in sample size 4. Test on form or model; correct the sample pattern 5. Make the production pattern for sample size 6. Grade the sample size production pattern up and down for each size 7. Production patterns for all sizes in range -First pattern ->Prod pattern-> Grading pattern for each size