Hair Coloring Review Milady

reverse highlighting aka lowlighting

Coloring hair strands darker than natural hair color. -make dark areas recede and appear smaller -details become less visible

highlighting

decolorizing or coloring some strands lighter than the natural shade -adds illusion of sheen and depth -has to be lighter to be noticable -appear larger and more fuller -details become more visible

semi permanent

deposit only -no lifting power -color applied on color creates darker color -strand test -used straight out the bottle

color is alkaline

developer is acid

highlighting shampoo tints aka soap cap

equal parts hair color, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo -gives slight change -requires patch test

hair lighteners

hair lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by diffuse, disperse, and dissolve natural hair pigment -the amount of change depends on: -how much pigment in hair -strength of the lightener -time it is processed -hydrogen peroxide serves as the oxidizing agent and begins to release oxygen when mixed with lightener

Tint removal

-Mixed with hydrogen peroxide sometimes -sometimes there is too much buildup of color on hair that all removal or part of it may be necessary to achieve the desired hair color.

Brassiness and unwanted tones

-analyze if the brassy tones are red, yellow, or orange. -locate particular shade on color wheel and use the complimentary color to neutralize it. -Can be done with Temporary rinses, soap caps during retouches, fillers, and semi permanent or demi colors.

color filler advantages

-deposit color to faded ends, -helps hair hold color -prevents streaking and dull appearance -prevents off color results -more uniform, natural looking color in tint and uniform color when doing a tint back

double processing haircolor

-for dramatically lighter hair -prelighten the hair -must first be decolorized -add product to acheieve the desired color tone TO APPLY: -pre lighten hair -desired level, shampoo, acidify, -towel dry -perform strand test -appy the color

Presoftening

-gray hair can be highly resistant and requires presoftening to allow proper penetration of color. -double application -presoftener is applied, processed then removed. -hair color is applied

TONERS

-have to lift before applying a toner to achieve a pale delicate color -require double processing application -patch test required and strand test -semi, demi and perm hair color products -applied to lightest degree of Contributing pigments after decolorizinf

Other considerations when formulating for gray hair.

-personal preference -amount and location of gray hair 25% gray needs no special consideration -over 50% 1/2 Gold, beige, or natural 1/2 of color

off the scalp lighteners powder lighteners

-powder form -strong enough for blonding -called quick lighteners -contain boosters(oxygen released for quick action) dry out the stop working -expand and spread out during processing -used for foils, hair painting, and cap technique joico products on or off the scalp

selecting correct color filler

-replace missing primary color in formulaion; all 3 must be present for a natural looking hair color. -may be applied directly to hair or mixed with tint and applied to damaged ends (apply filler firsT)

damaged hair characterists

-rough texture -overpourous -brittle and dry -suceptible to breakage -no elasticity -becomes spongy and matted when wet -color fades or absorbs too rapidly.

permanent color

-single process -lightens and colors the hair in single application -retouch app is done at the roots only -most formulated with 20 volume -Double process hair is prelightened before the color is added

oil lighteners

1-2 lvls of lift -mildest -on the scalp Joico products -rarely used

Fading reds

IMPORTANT: use lower volume of hydrogen peroxide. -pre-lighten before tint application, useful when warmer or brighter reds are desired on darker levels. -retouching with red based tint may require 2 formulas. TELL CLIENT TO USE: Cooler water, color safe shampoo or red shampoo

CONTRIBUTION OF UNDERLYING PIGMENT

Lightening the hair to the correct stage is essential to a controlled final hair coloring result. -hair is decolorized to appropriate level -new color is applied to deposit the desired color. The natural pigments remain in hair and contributes to the artifical color that is added

color filler

May be demi color used when there is doubt as to even color results

Tint back to natural

Porosity must be evened out to achieve color correction Create warmth to prevent drab, unnatural looking color Demi: deposit only color is a great choice.

What is a soap cap?

Prepared color (tint) & shampoo: apply like regular shampoo.

fillers

help equalize porosity and deposit a base color in one application.

preliminary strand test

in the lower crown, applied to small strand of the desired hair color to be used, not a patch, allergy or preposition test.

formulating for gray hair

level 9 or higher may not give complete coverage of gray, -level 6,7,8 can be used to create pastel and blonde tones -80-100% natural gray the blonde range is more flattering than a darker shade -when coloring salt and pepper hair to darker, color on color will make a darker shade, use a shade lighter than the naturally dark hair color

Lightener Retouch

lighten new growth 1st (1/2") -creme lightener is generally used to prevent overlapping and its consistency

cream lightener

more control -overlapping can be prevented -can be mixed with activators, boosters, protinators, and accelerators lifts 6-7-8 levels -on the scalp joico products on or off the scalp

demi permanent

no lifting power -deposit only -applied as VGD or roots to end -similar app to semi perm. -does not alter the natural hair melanin -gray blending up to 50%

balayage or free form technique

painting a lightener directly on clean styled hair. -applied scalp to ends with a color brush -subtle and used to draw attention to the hair surface

highlighting shampoo

shampoo and developer -no patch test required, -1/2-1 lvl lift -kids hair -

toning over-highlighted hair and dimensional colored hair

temporary, semi and demi work best.

release statement

to explain to clients that if their hair is in questionable condition, it may not withstand the service

Conditioner fillers:

used to recondition damaged hair and overly porous hair. -applied in seperate procedure or immediately prior to color app (HKP)

Activator

an oxidizer added to H202 to increase its chemical reaction or lifting power

temporary

applied to clean damp hair -

methods of highlighting

cap technique and foil

compound dyes

combination of metallic with a vegetable tint

Time factors for processing

darker hair has more melanin which means the longer it takes to lighten -porous hair lightens faster than non porous -preliminary strand test requires

permanent color 4 questions in formulating color

1. What is the natural level 2. what is the clients natural desired level and tone 3. Are contributing pigments (undertones) revealed 4. What colors should be mixed to get the desired result

10 degrees of decolorization

10. Pale yellow 9. Yellow 8. yellow/gold or yellow/orange 7. Gold or Orange 6. Orange gold 5. orange or red 4.red orange or red violet 3. red or violet 2. red brown or blue violet 1. dark red /brown or blue

patch test

24-48 hours -if getting a permanent color (which contains aniline derivitives ) and the client has allergies or sensitivitiesj aka allergy test predispositon test

Shampoo bleach

30ml developer, 30ml lightener, 30ml shampoo