History of Haute Couture
Charles Worth
"Father of Couture" - Englishman moved to Paris --> opened own business - HOUSE OF WORTH. Good businessman. supervised construction of own gowns and choosing fabrics.
Christian Dior
"New Look" - 1947; Ultra-feminine silhouette after years of war restrictions. long skirt, tiny waist, snug bodice.
Jacques Fath
1 of the 3 dominant influences on post WWII haute couture; flattering dinner dresses; Clients Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo, Rita Hayworth
Madame Vionnet
1 of the 3 greatest designers in the 20th century. innovation and bias cut. freeing the female body. Silk. greatest techinician of modern couture.
Jean Patour
1920's & 1930's -- glamour & showmanship to fashion - elegant, country club type clothing; lengthened skirt to ankle; first designer to show "flapper look"
Claire McCardell
American designer; creator of American sportswear. Top all-american designer. mix and match separates. very practical.
Fortuny
Italian - silk gowns = pleated. Designed for Carnival. Pleated silk cannot be replicated
Pauline Trigere
Paris --> U.S. produced conservative but very flattering garments. Coats most recognized and most innovative
Norman Norell
Parsons School of Design - designed for stars of silent movies. costume designer in Broadway. "New York" style - Jackie Kennedy
Coco Chanel
designs & colorful life. Entire empire: Couture House (Carl Lagerfeld), Textiles, Perfume Lab, Costume jewelry. Made the "tan" popular. Chanel No. 5; trademark chanel suit; costume jewelry
Paul Poiret
early 20th century - self designated "king" of fashion from 1904 - 1924. Banned the corset. created Hobbly skirt & Harem pants. extreme orientalism. ERTE - type of design. Trunk shows - turban
Mainbocher
fashion illustrator for Harper's Bazaar. CORSET -1939. Expensive, elegant haute couture dresses and gowns for exclusive clientele. client - Duchess of Windsor
Aleix Gres
fine gauge jewelry silk = liquid bias effect. classicalism - interest in Greek and Roman examples
Gilbert Adrian
first american designers recognized by the French. Designed MGM studios from 1923-1939. Exaggerated shoulders, tapered waist, animal prints
18th century
french court became arbitrators of fashion and taste; Paris = fashion capital of the world; textile industry promoted by the government in france. Identities of personal dressmakers and tailors kept secret
Jeanne Lanvin
high art and couture; intricate trimming, virtuoso embroideries, beaded decorations in clear, light, and floral color. design work for children
Charles James
immigrated to america. gowns = works of art. sculpted ballgowns. known for capes and coats and spiral zipped dresses
Before Industrial Revolution...
middle-class nonexistent; only wealthy could afford to think about fashion; clothing = functional;
Elsa Schiaparelli
most creative, unconventional couturiers of 1930's and 1940's. conversation pieces - bright aggressive colors and rough materials. defined traditional design
Molyneux
opened house in 1919. designed for celebrities. zippers in clothing.
Rose Berton
top dressmaker for Marie Antionette - first dressmaker to actually be none
