Seafood

spanner crab

AKA frog crab, kona crab. Newcomer to US. From northeastern Australia for high-end dining. Hawaii, too. Sustainable option. Named for claws that look like spanners (wrenches). FLAVOR: Meat is soft and moist, slightly sweet and delicate. COOKING: Boiling or steaming for 12-13 minutes. Immediately put into cold water to stop cooking. Picked meat in stir fries, salads, sammies, pasta dishes and risottos, ravioli filling, won tons.

croaker

AKA hardhead. Atlantic croaker is smallest member of Sciaenidae drums. Gets name from croaking sound from voluntary contraction of muscles attached to air bladder. Market size: .75 to 1.5 lbs. Chesapeake Bay and Mississippi Delta regions. FLAVOR: Raw meat is snowy white, maybe a little red. Cooked totally white. Lean and full flavored, almost sweet. Firm flesh like black drum. Edible flesh. COOKING: Popular pan fish. BGreaded or dusted w/ cornmeal or flour and pan-fried. Can be marinated, grilled, sauteed, roasted or broiled. Southern favorite is to dip a dressed, scaled croacker in water, milk, egg, roll in corn flour and fry.

blue crab

AKA hardshell crab, softshell crab. Males (Jimmies) have blue claws, females (Sallies) are orange-tipped. 4-6 inches. Found from Cape Cod to Gulf of Mexico. Largest concentration in Maryland and Virginia. FLAVOR: Rich, sweet, succulent and buttery flavor. Body meat is delicate flavor and white, tender, flaky. Claw meat is nutty, brownish tint. COOKING: Steamed or boiled. Fried crab cakes w/ pickled meat, breadcrumbs and butter and seasoning are favorite. Softshells are best sauteed, broiled or grilled at high heat so shells become crisp. OFten fried and served in sammies.

pink salmon

AKA humpy. The "can-friendly" pink is the smallest and most plentiful of the wild salmon, accounting for the lion's share of the canned pack. Market size: 2 to 6 pounds. Pinks are found on both sides of the North Pacific, from Puget Sound to Alaska and from Russia to North Korea, including the Bering Sea. Not farmed. FLAVOR: Lean and mild. Low in oil and small-flaked. Softer meat than most salmon. COOKING: With low fat content, don't grill as well. Can dry out. Cook with moist heat or baste frequently.

Striped bass

AKA hybrid striped bass, sunshine bass, white bass. After wild striped bass stocks nearly collapsed, industry engineered this hybrid. Market 1-3 lbs. Farmed. Can be harvested, chilled, graded, sorted and shipped to market in 24 hours, so super fresh. High production costs mean high cost. FLAVOR: Mild. Delicate, slightly sweet. Raw meat tranlucent white/pinkish. Turns opaque when cooked. Moderately firm but flaky. Oil content keeps moist. Most are raised in oxygenated tanks or ponds, where strict water quality control and feed ensures consistent flavor. COOKING: Can be stuffed and baked whole. Grill with the skin on (delicate flavor and turns nice and crispy while flesh remains moist).

Carp

AKA koi. Super-sustainable. Native to Asia, now considered invasive species in US. One of the world's original farmed fish (500BC). Market size: 2-4 lbs. FLAVOR: White meat, but strip of tough, fatty dark meat running through it (can be removed). Meaty and firm, moderate oil and flavor. COOKING: Used in gefilte fish. IF using a full-scaled variety, scales are very difficult to remove. Tough skin often removed before cooking.

Dungeness Crab

AKA market crab, San Francisco crab. Takes its name from a small fishing village on the STrait of Juan de Fuca in Washington. Found in Santa Barbara, California, Aleutian Islands off Alaska. Only males 6.25 inches or bigger are harvested. Market size: 1.5-3 lbs. FLAVOR: World standard for premium crab, sweet, flavorful and semi-nutty. Shellfish version of an artichoke heart. Some compare to Maine lobster but more tender. Leg meat firmer. Opaque white cooked meat. COOKING: Boil live for 18-20 minutes, then immerse in cold water to chill. Cool and crack, serve with melted butter.

Angler fish

AKA monkfish, goose-fish, "poor man's lobster." Large, low-fat, firm saltwater fish. Sweet flavor like lobster.

Opah

AKA moonfish, Hawaiian moonfish. Thought to bring good luck. More boldly flavored fish. Opah isn't consistently available, since the species doesn't school and isn't easily harvested in quantity. Hawaii, off coast of California, sub-tropical waters. Imported into the U.S. market predominately from Fiji, Tahiti and New Zealand. ONE OPAH HAS FOUR TYPES OF FLESH, ALL DIFFERENT COLORS. Tender loin meat is light salmon-orange. Less tender, stringy side flesh is same color, but paler at bottom. Cheek meat is dark red. All cook up WHITE except the bright-red breast meat, which turns brown. FLAVOR: Rich, dreamy taste, firm, fatty texture. Flavor cross between tuna and swordfish. Distinctive, but not overpowering. Large-grain, fatty flesh makes it versatile. Works with assertive sauces. Top loin is great sashimi.

Escolar

AKA oilfish. L flavobrunneum is considered the true escolar. The lesser Ruvettus pretiosus is known as castor oil fish, which ruined the reputation. Almost exclusively a BYCATCH of tuna fishing. Found in tropical and temperate waters worldwide. Imported from Fiji, Ecuador In US, found in Gulf of Mexico. Since tuna fishing is best during the late phases of the moon, there's usually more escolar on the market in the days following a full moon. TASTE: In a culinary class with Chilean sea bass, sablefish and other rich, highly prized fish. Lots of oil and big flavor. Castor oilfish (Ruvettus) turns yellow, true escolar stays pure white when cooked. Emiril was one of the first celebrity chefs to put it on menu. Oily meat is great for grilling. Distinctive taste stands up to strong accompaniments.

rock crab

AKA peekytoe crab, bay crab. Once considered "trap trash." Marketing brought it to be a specialty. Cannot be shipped live, so meat must be meticulously hand picked. ONly a handful of processors in Maine and Canada specialize in it. Still no dedicated fishery, just a lobster fishery bycatch, peak availability in summer. FLAVOR: Smaller than Jonah, claws too small to sell whole. Cooked meat is pink or cream with reddish-brown highlights. Delicate, sweet-salty flavor. Lighter than Jonah crab. COOKING: Lends itself to gourmet salads, apps and simple treatments. In home of Maine, often mixed with mayo and served in crab rolls. Or crab cakes.

Gulf shrimp

AKA pinks, northern pinks, hoppers, skiippers, browns, northern browns, redtails, Gulf whites, northern whites, Mexican whites. Brown, white and pink shrimp are a triad of warmwater animals known collectively as "Gulf shrimp." Southeastern U.S. coast. Largest are hte pinks. FLAVOR: Pinks tender and sweet. Browns firm, somewhat bland with iodine. WHITES ARE BEST... the gold standard (sweet, firm). COOKING: Stuffed, breaded, boiled, barbecued. Cook in just 60-90 seconds.

Hardshell clam

AKA quahog. Rarely sold by those names, instead by names that reflect size (littlenecks, cherrystones, topnecks, chowders). Most valuable US clam species. Littlenecks are the most tender, expensive (2-3 years old). Cherrystones are 5-6. Large chowder clams can be 30 years old. Major US harvest is between Mass and Florida. FLAVOR: Hardshells are connossieur's choice for raw, halfshell clams. Mild, sweet, briny. Cooked they're soft, juicy and mild. Raw it's ivory to golden yellow with dark areas. COoked is pale pink-white. COOKING: LIttlenecks on the halfshell, fried or steamed. Minced clams can be added to soups at simmer stage. Cherrystones usually broiled, chopped for chowder or baked in dishes like clams casino. Large hardhsells are stuffed or used in chowders, clam cakes.

conch

AKA queen conch. Often confused w/ East Coast whelk. Queen conch is from Caribbean. Harvesting banned in US. 2-4 pounds. Both meat and shell prized. Meat is the foot. FLAVOR: Sweet, slightly smokey flavor like abalone or clam. ALmost crunchy. Young, thin-lipped conchs have more tender meat. Foot has protective coating that needs to be removed. COOKING: Don't overcook; meat toughens. Need to tenderize with meat mallet or slice thin. Marinate it in lime juice for two hours for a conch salad. Dice for chowder. For cracked conch, dip tenderized steaks in egg wash, roll in flour, pan fry for 5-6 minutes each side.

drum

AKA red drum, channel bass, spottail, spotted bass, bull redfish. Dozens of drum species found in tropical waters of Atlantic, Pacific and Gulf Mexico. Greatest value in niche US market are RED DRUM and BLACK DRUM. Named for loud drumming noise when contracting muscles of air bladder. Red drum is the species of blackened redfish fame, overharvested to the point of closing the U.S. fishery. It is now imported from Mexico, Argentina, Ecuador and Central America and commands high prices. Demand has shifted to the more plentiful, lower-priced black drum. Flesh of small, very fresh red drum almost has an emerald-green tint to it. Meat of larger red drums white w/ red tint. Both species cooks up snow white. Both have sweet, mild flavor, firm, moist flesh. Similar to snapper in texture. Black drum meat is coarser than red. Black is meatier and can hold up under any cooking method. Carry parasites, so NOT a fish for sushi.

Atlantic Perch

AKA redfish, rosefish. Bright red or orange coloring. Not actually perch, but rockfish that travel in schools. Called redfish in New England, but shouldn't be confused with the redfish from Gulf of Mexico (a drum). Market weight: 1.5-2 lbs. FLAVOR: Mild but a bit sweet, moderately firm. In Asia, served whole, steamed or deep fried. Filets hold together best w/ skin on, though flavor will be more pronounced.

Yellow perch

AKA ring perch, striped perch, jack perch, redfin. Hailed by many as the "ultimate panfish," rivaled only by walleye as the most popular freshwater fish on restaurant menus. Once wild in the Great Lakes, was overfished. Now mostly farmed. An estimated 40 aquaculture operations in the United States raise yellow perch to food size. FLAVOR: Moist, translucent, deep-pink flesh with no fishy odor. White cooked meat. Mild, sweet, firm but flaky. COOKING: Highly versatile, yellow perch can be pan- and deep-fried, baked, sautéed, poached, grilled or used in chowder. For most recipes, prepare skin-on. Because of its mild but distinctive flavor, yellow perch can be prepared with minimal seasoning.

Alaskan cod

AKA sablefish. Not a true cod. Soft-texture. Mild. High fat makes it good for smoking.

pink shrimp

AKA salad shrimp. From northernmost waters. Smaller than many shrimp species. Hermaphrodites. FIrst 1.5 years as males, then becoming females. TASTE: VERY SWEET, more flavorful than warmwater. Fairly firm meat, but not as firm as warmwater. Moist. COOKING: In salads because they're small. Or casseroles, quiches and omelets or as garnish for other seafood. Cook in seconds.

herring

AKA sardine. Was working class fish in the US for a long time, especially the Boston Irish in 1880s. We're more accustomed to canned herring as sardines. Market size is 5-9 inches. FLAVOR: Ranges from delicately flavored small fish to larger fish with fuller, oilier flavor. COOKING: ANy fashion except poaching or steaming. Most is canned, pickled or smoked in US. High oil content makes good smoking, and fish's firm meat hands up in brine if pickled. The Scots fry fresh herring, rolling it in coarse oatmeal first.

porgy

AKA sea bream, silver snapper. "Porgy" come the Native American word for "fertilizer," which they used to use it as. Market-sized fish weigh 3 pounds or under. FLAVOR: White, tender meat w/ large flake and mild, sweet flavor. Compared to snapper in taste and texture. Lots of small bones, which makes it hard to filet. COOKING: Versatile. Mild flavor works with many flavors. Whole fish good grilled or roasted; thgose methods also soften the bones and make them slide off easier. Tough, hard-to-scale skin.

whitefish

AKA shad. Confusing name. Generic term for any mild-white-fleshed fish. True is Arctic and sub-Arctic fresh and salt water. Lake whitefish most popular, from cold, deepwater lakes in northern US and Canada. silvery, small-mouthed. Related to salmon and trout, but have pure-white meat and are traditionally the species used for gefilte fish. Whitefish roe, marketed as golden caviar, is highly valued. FLAVOR: Considered one of the best-eating freshwater fish. Because it lives in icy waters, has high fat content. Ideal for smoking. Mild flavor more like salmon than trout. Medium firm meat with large flake. COOKING: HIgh fat prevents overcooking. Can grill (skin on). Can also be used in chowders and salads, since meat is solid and holds well.

Coho salmon

AKA silver salmon, Hoopid, white salmon, bluesh salmon, silversides, jack salmon. Found on both sides of the Pacific from southern California to Alaska, and from Russia to Japan. Alaska dominates global harvests. Market size: 4 to 12 pounds. FLAVOR: THe size, relatively high fat content and excellent color retention make it a desirable fish. Pan-sized coho have a delicate flavor. Fillets from larger fish have an excellent, mild salmon taste but are more flavorful than chum. Reddish-orange meat moderately fatty and flakes well. COOKING: Oil content great for grilling. Baste w/ marinade, cover and cook. Good smoked.

aku

AKA skipjack, arctic bonito, katsuo. Small tuna (6-8 pounds). Similar to yellowfin.

flounder

AKA sole. Around 540 species of these flatfish. Yellowtail is the most important Atlantic Coast flounder, and petrale sole is the most important West Coast species. Gray sole offers long, slender fillets; yellowtail flounder, rock sole, lemon sole, fluke and dab offer thicker, broader fillets. FLAVOR: PUre white cooked meat. Lean, boneless, flaky, mild flavor ranging from bland to sweet. PETRALE SOLE has firm, delicate tasting flesh. Pacific Dover, with softer flesh, considered lesser quality. YELLOWTAIL FLOUNDER is supreme, with sweet taste and firm texture. Lemon and gray sole ain't far behind. COOKING: Thin, so easily dry out. Use wine, sauce, other liquids or moist veggies to prevent it. Avoid sauces or herbs that overpower the delicate taste.

langostino

AKA squat lobster. Small, lobster-like crustacean found off coast of Chile (where it's called langostino Colorado). Related langostino from Baja, California to Peru is called "tuna crab." About 4-5 inches, looks like a short, crinkled crawfish. FLAVOR: Looks like cooked shrimp meat but sweet, delicate flavor like lobster or crab. Texture resembles shrimp more than lobster tail. TAIL is edible.

softshell clams

AKA steamer, longneck, belly clam, ipswich, maninose, squirt clam, fryer, gaper. Found on Atlantic coast. Soak them in saltwater with a cup of cornmeal to purge the stomach of sand. Susceptible to bacteria. FLAVOR: Delicate meat, sweet, slightly salty. Large bellies tender and soft. Siphon is covered with dark membrane that's removed before eaten. COOKING: DO NOT EAT RAW. Clam of choice for steaming in shell or frying in crumbs or batter. Cook just until the shells open. Overcooking makes tough.

cusk

AKA tusk, torsk, brosmius. Regarded as substitute for cod. But many chefs, including James Beard, argue that it's better. Member of the Gadidae family (cod, haddock, pollock). Looks like an eel cross. Along Western Atlantic from Newfoundland to Cape Cod, Scotland, Iceland, Norway. Bottom-feeder. Market size: 2-3 pounds. FLAVOR: White when raw, opaque after cooked. Meat is firmer and chewier than cod, but mild and sweet flavor like cod. Oilier than other whitefish, so can be grilled or baked. Good frying fish. Firm meat holds together, so good in soups and chowders and even kabobs.

chinook salmon

AKA tyee, blackmouth. Largest and top of the line of all salmon. Harvested from central California to the Yukon River in Alaska and in Canada. Market size: 11-18 pounds. Often known and marketed by the name of the river system from which they come. The Copper River produces excellent kings. Other Alaska river systems are the Kuskokwim and the Yukon. The return of Copper River salmon in late May or early June heralds the beginning of Alaska's wild salmon season. FLAVOR: These guys need a large fat reserve for long-distance migration. That means pronounced, buttery, rich taste. Oily chinook flesh is softer than any other wild salmon. Flesh almost always red, never pink. COOKING: Simple is better.

Alaska Pollock

AKA walleye pollock, Pacific tomcod, bigeye cod, snow cod. Bulk of the catch comes from the Bering Sea, the Gulf of Alaska and Russia's Sea of Okhotsk. Market size: 1.5-2 pounds. FLAVOR: Mild, delicate, slightly coarse texture. Some find it more flavorvul than cod or haddock, possibly becuase it's oilier. WHite firm cooked flesh. COOKING: Versatile. Used in surumi and fried-fillet sandwiches. Ideal substitute for cod.

hake

AKA whiting. more than a dozen hake and whiting species. Temperate and cold water. Most popular in US are Atlantic whiting (M. bilinearis), or silver hake from the Northwest Atlantic. FLAVOR: Flesh varies, but softer than cod. The best species—like Cape capensis and Antarctic Queen—have texture like sole. Mild, a bit sweet. White when cooked. Can be subbed for pollock or cod. Since it's bland, Pacific hake takes a lot of seasonings (fish sticks and cakes). Atlantic whiting, firmer, is popular as corned hake in New England. COOKING: THE KEY... treat gently.

Ahi

AKA yellowfin. Tuna that can hit 300 pounds. Pale pink flesh. Mild.

Lingcod

AKA. Cultus cod, blue cod, green cod, buffalo cod, ling. Not actually a cod or a ling. A Pacific greenling. Found from Baja to the Aleutians. It's a bycatch. Market size: 10 lbs. FLAVOR: Don't be alarmed by blue-green tint of raw meat. Snow white when cookd. Mild, tender-firm, large, soft, moist flakes. Favorite in Pacific Northwest for fish and chips. Works well on grill. Can be baked. DENSE FISH... so requires longer cooking times.

Pacific white shrimp

AMong the most cultivated in the world. Pond-raised. TASTE: Firm, sweet, mild. COOKING: Try simmering in beer with celery and garlic. Shrimp scampi.

yellowtail

Confusing, since can apply to flounder, tuna and sole. IT's the common name for several species of amberjack—sleek migratory tuna-like fish found off both US coasts. Most valuable is farmed Japan yellowtail sold in US sushi bars as hamachi. Market size: 15-20 lbs. FLAVOR: Pink meat. High in fat. COOKING: Mostly sushi. Delicious lightly seared or marinated then roasted, grilled or braised.

Bream

Daurade, gilt-head bream, sea bream, daurude, orata. Highly valued species. Prized in Mediterranean food and Euro. Are all males until year 2, female by year 3. 10-14 inches, 1-6 pounds. Upscale chefs in US call it daurade or daurade royale. FLAVOR: Rosy flesh turns white when cooked. Moist flesh, rich, sweet flavor. Firm but tender. COOKING: Best cooked whole w/ backbone in. THIS IS THE FISH TRADITIONALLY USED IN BOUILLABAISSE. Excellent poached in wine.

rock shrimp

Deepwater cousin of the Gulf Shrimp. Gets name from rock-hard shell. Most US supply come from Florida. So hard to peel that it's sold as meat. Pretty small. TASTE: Firm texture and sweet, succulent flavor, similar to lobster. COOKING: Almost any recipe that doesn't require whole shrimp for presentation. Ideal for stir-fries and other quick recipes, like pasta dishes and pizza. Cooks in 35 seconds in boiling water.

Spiny lobster

Don't have the large front claws of the American lobster. Prized for tail meat. Coldwater and warmwater. Cold are more tender, succulent, shrink less during cooking. Shouldn't be any dark spots after cooked.

Catfish

Farming catfish is US seafood success story. Started in Arkansas in 60s by southern soybean and rice farmers who built ponds. One of the best protein converters. Market size: 1-1.5 lbs. Harvested, transported live in tank trucks to processing plants. So fresh. FLAVOR: Because it's grain-fed and farmed, has consistent, sweet, mild taste. Absorbs other flavors easily. Moist, dense meat firm and less flake than most whitefish. Don't buy if flesh is reddish or slightly yellow. Raw it doesn't smell fishy; smells like chicken. As versatile as chicken--complex sauce or barbecue. Classic is to dust it with corn meal and fry in veggie oil.

blue mussels

Farming success story. Maine is the largest U.S. producer, but the domestic market also draws farmed mussels from Canada's Prince Edward Island. Cost more than wild but are usually worth the extra price. FLAVOR: Rich, sweet taste, like a blend of oysters and clams. Should have tightly closed shells. Less soft than clams. Color doesn't indicate quality. Females tend to be orange when ripe. Best steamed in water, wine or cream broth w/ herbs and garlic. Cold marinated mussel meats in sauce of mayo-mustard-garlic.

wolffish

Ferocious looking. Gets name from sharp, protruding teeth used to feast on lobsters, clams and shellfish. Iceland largest producer. Market size averages 10 pounds. FLAVOR: High regard by European chefs as substitute for Dover Sole. Lean, pearly white flesh, firm, mild, sweet, like lobster. Flake like cod's, but not as large. Skin is edible, no scales. COOKING: Not as firm as monkfish or delicate as sole. Versatile, holds up well. Satueed or sauce, encrusted in herbed mustard and baked. Good addition to bouillabaisse. Grilled w/ skin on.

snapper

Almost any red fish is called red snapper, incorrectly. Beware of "snapper" sold on the West Coast; it could actually be rockfish, which has a completely different taste and texture. Market size: 4-6 pounds. Trademark red skin and red eyes. Dog-like teeth (thus the name). Found from North Carolina to Florida's "snapper banks." FLAVOR: Lean and moist. Sweet, mild, distinct flavor. Superb taste. COOKING: Any method. Steam whole, Chinese style. Bake whole stuffed with season. If tail curls while cooking, it's an imposter.

Atlantic salmon

Aquaculture/farming success story. Typically raised in large, floating net-pens, often in open bays, to help give them a "natural" flavor. Market size: 4-18 pounds. FLAVOR: Atlantic is milder than wild salmon. Moderately firm flesh and oily, but not as fatty as teh wild chinook or king salmon. COOKING: Show off that flesh. A light dill-and-yogurt or cucumber-dill sauce works well, and sliced cucumbers and new potatoes are ideal companions.

Stone crab

Atlantic and Gulf coasts. Florida is almost allo commercial harvest. Florida law forbids landing whole stone crabs. Only large front claws are kept. FLAVOR: Claws are smooth and round. Bright orange shells with black tips. Raw meat grayish; cooked white. Resembles lobster meat. Claw meat is sweet, mild, firm, like cross between crab and lobster. Super-hard shell. COOKING: Boiling best way. Rich meat only needs simple treatment. Gotta mallet those hard shells. Serve w/ hot melted butter, lemon or with lime wedges and mayo or lime-dill vinaigrette.

Grouper

Belong to one of the largest and widely eaten families of fish—the sea bass. Red grouper is the most valued. Market size: 5-15 pounds Found in temperate waters from the Mid-Atlantic states and Florida to South America, Central America and the Gulf of Mexico. FLAVOR: Mild but distinct (between bass and halibut). Red is sweeter and milder than black grouper. Cooked, has very firm texture and heavy flake, moist. COOKING: In South, Blackened grouper is favorite presentation. A very forgiving fish. It can be overcooked and still moist.

skate

Bottom-dwellers. Only the wings are eaten. Once believed that skate wings were cut up and sold as scallops, but experts note that the cartilage would make it economically unfeasible. TASTE: Mildly pronounced flavor like scallops. Stringy texture. COOKING: Remove skin.

Abalone

California, Mexico, Japan. Edible abductor muscle (foot). Tough but well flavored. Foot needs to be tenderized. Can be eaten raw or slowly stewed. Supply was decimated, but farming brought it back. FLAVOR: milky-moist, tender, mild. Like lobster but sweeter. If you overpound it, you'll shred the meat. Heat oil to near flash point, sautee less than a minute per side. Overcooking turns it to shoe leather.

orange roughy

Formerly known as slimehead — a distinct marketing handicap. Averages 3 1/2 pounds. Deepwater species taken by trawls at depths of up to 700 fathoms. Mild, delicate flavor and moist-large-flaked meat that holds together well. The darker the meat, the lower the quality. They dont' mate well at such low, pressurized environments, so not most sustainable fish. COOKING: Tolerant of most except deep frying and grilling.

cuttlefish

10-armed mollusk related to octopus and squid. Larger and fatter than a squid, making it meatier. Its ink was formerly used to make a brown pigment called sepia. Not found in North America except as an export from Europe. Cooked meat pure white. Sweet. The texture is sim ilar to that of a fish fillet and quite tender if cooked properly. Treat it like squid. Steam, stew in wine, stir-fry, sauté or batter and fry it. Serve it as sushi. Much of what's offered as squid ink is actually cuttlefish ink. Do not overcook, or gets rubbery.

tilefish

AKA "clown of the sea." Deep-water fish. Major fishing from eastern Florida, southern New Jersey and the tip of Long Island, N.Y. Small isn't good... softer flesh. Market size: 5-10 lbs. Tilefish can grow up to 4 feet and 80 pounds, although 5 to 10 pounds are average in the commercial catch. Deep water fish dine on crabs, giving them firmer texture and sweeter flavor. FLAVOR: Thick filets w/ row of pinbones. White cooked flesh, firm, flakey texture. Mild but distinctive, compared to lobster or crab. COOKING: Pan-searing good option since it holds together well. Same with soups/stews. Start at high initial heat to seal in juices and keep meat moist. Sushi or sashimi good, too.

Snow crab

AKA Alaska snow crab, spider crab, tanner crab, queen crab. Three fished species: opilios, bairdis and tanneris. From Alaska. Most important is opilio (caught in both Atlantic and Pacific). Smaller and less red than king crabs. Bairdis are largest (5 lbs, 3 feet), opilios just over a pound. FLAVOR: Sweet and delicate, more fibrous than king crab. Tender fibers of shoulder meat, firm claw meat. Meat is snow white to reddish. Like king crab, marketed already cooked. COOKING: Already cooked. SO just need to thaw (slowly--one to two days in fridge) and reheat. Do more than heat it up, and it becomes dry and tough. Chowders, omelets, crepes, casseroles, quiches.

Jonah crab

AKA Atlantic Dungeness. Used to be seen as nuisance by lobsterman. Canada, Maine New Hampshire. Landed year-round. Close relatives of rock crabs, but larger, bigger claws. FLAVOR: Bigger claws than dungeness. Cooked meat is white with brownish-red highlights. Flaky and sweet, darker and heavier in texture than Dungeness. COOKING: Place in boiling salted or seawater and cook for 6 minutes per pound.

cod

AKA Atlantic cod, Pacific cod, true cod, gray cod. Considered the "default setting from which all other fish species vary." Distinctive barbel beneath its chin. Market size: 2.5 to 10 lbs. Bering and Barents seas, Gulf of Alaska. Salted cod used in Mediterranean, Caribbean and African. Canada and Norway major producers of salt cod. FLAVOR: Atlantic is mild, clean flavor, large, gender flakes. Less firm than haddock, sweeter than Pacific cod. Opaque white when cooked. Pacific cod is white, tender-firm, lean and flaky, mild taste. Moisture content is higher, making less firm. Pacific cod has larger, thicker fillets. Moisture content makes breading difficult. Because it's so lean, cod cooks quickly and benefits from moist heat. Neutral flavor perfect for herbs like tarragon, dill, cilantro. Cod tongues and cheeks are delicacy sauteed.

Eastern Oyster

AKA Atlantic oyster, cove oyster, American oyster. The Pacific Oyster has taken over the world, but this is AMerica's native one. Harvested mainly from wild beds in the Gulf of Mexico. They're also farmed in Long Island Sound and parts of Atlantic Canada. Because of the different conditions associated with each grow-out region — nutrients in the water, salinity levels, temperature, etc. — oysters vary in taste from one area to the next. The renowned Blue Point, for example, hails from Long Island Sound. TASTE: Known for its distinctive, salty flavor and meaty texture. Oyster meats, which are somewhat fatty, should be smooth with adequate liquor (store cup-side down to retain the liquor). Sulfur odor indicates a dead oyster. The liquid in which fresh, shucked oysters are packed should be clear. COOKING: Tender creatures. They should never be heated too quickly or too long. As soon as the mantle starts to curl, they're done. Though oysters are often served on the halfshell, people in high-risk categories should avoid raw shellfish.

akule

AKA Bigeye scad. Hawaii. Served salted and dried.

kingklip

AKA Chilean ling, ling, cusk-eel, congrio. Member of cusk eel family, has four species: red, golden, South African and black. Market size: 10 lbs. U.S. market prefers golden and red. Red is considered best of kingklips for flavor and texture. White cooked. Black kingklip is darker meat. FLAVOR: Mild, slightly sweet. Dense, good, large flake. Black kingklip not as tender. COOKING: Staple of South America. Main ingredient in caldillo congrio, a spicy, CHilean-style bouillabaisse.

Chinese White Shrimp

AKA China whites, fleshy prawn. Harvested from farm ponds. Have a fragile meat more characteristic of coldwater shrimp. Sulfur or ammonia odors indicate decomposition. Chlorine smells may indicate use of this chemical to mask off-odors. Grassy or corn-on-the-cob odor is often associated with pond-raised shrimp. FLAVOR: Mild, softer than Gulf or Pacific whites. Sometimes seem a bit watery. COOKING: Do it quick. When tails curl they're done. Garlic sauce.

octopus

AKA Devilfish. Primary octopus suppliers are the Philippines, Thailand and Korea. Hawaii and California are domestic sources. Biologists consider them the smartest of all invertebrates, on par in intelligence with the house cat. FLAVOR: Uniquely textured — smooth, but with a firm-to-chewy "bite." The animal's diet of high-quality shellfish gives it a mild, sweet flavor. The edible skin is purplish-black and covers milky white meat. Unlike squid, MUST BE COOKED A LONG TIME to become tender. Simmer in tomato-based stews, long cooking in a wine sauce. Before using in recipe, meat is boiled for 30 minutes to an hour to tenderize.

Geoduck

AKA Elephant trunk clam, king clam. Pronounced "gooey duck." Largest burrowing clam in the world and one of the longest lived animals (100-plus years). Enormous, meaty siphon of bivalve. 7 inch shell, 2.25 pounds. Prized in Hong Kong, China and Japan, considered rare treat. Eaten in hot pot or sashimi style. Washington's Puget Sound accounts for half the world's supply. FLAVOR: Siphon has tough beige/brown skin. Flesh is smooth and cream colored. Sweet, fresh sea flavor and crunchy texture. COOKING: Cut siophon from body, split in half lenghtwise. Cut each piece into paper-thin slices. Cook in stir-fry or hot pot or sashimi. Cooking toughens meat rapidly. QUick blanching in water or sauce gives best results.

Branzino

AKA European sea bass, Mediterranean sea bass, bar, loup de mer. Prized Euro fish (largely recreational). FLAVOR: Pinkish when raw, opaque white cooked. Fine textured, lean, flaky meat with sweet and mild flavor. Most chefs say wild-caught is more flavorful. COOKING: Low fat content, so best steamed, baked or sauteed. Mediterranean cooks grill it, but hard to do and can dry out.

freshwater shrimp

AKA Giant freshwater prawn, Malaysian prawn, Hawaiian blue prawn. More than 200 species of freshwate prawns. Most common is GIANT RIVER PRAWN. Market size: 6 to 7 inches. FLAVOR: Delicate, sweet, like lobster and firm, white flesh. Bright blue tail, only edible part. COOKING: Cook head-on to preserve natural juices and enhance flavor. Stays firmer if cooked in shell.

Barramundi

AKA Giant perch, palmer, bekti, Asian seabass. Versatile and eco-friendly. Spends most of life in rivers. Member of sea bass family. Eaten by Aboriginee, native to Australia and Southeast Asia. Raw flesh pearly pink, cooked meat white. FLAVOR: Firm, moist texture, large flakes. Prized for sweet, buttery flavor. Few bones, large and easily removed. COOKING: Versatile. High oil content to keep moist while cooking. Sweet, mild flavor can match wide range of sauces and spices. Edible skin, which crisps nicely.

cockle

AKA New Zealand littleneck, Venus clam. More than 200 species described as cockles. Often sold pickled or vaccuum packed with vinegar. FLAVOR: Raw meat gray and brown, creamy when cooked. Similar taste and texture to clams. COOKING: Soon as shell opens, ready. Overcooked, they shrivel. In the UK, steamed and served with vinegar. Aussies barbecue on halfshell. Asian stir-fries w/ veggies or in ginger or chili sauce.

hoki

AKA New Zealand whiptail, blue hake, blue grenadier. Homely, tapered, rat-tailed fish. Harvested year round in New Zealand, Australia and Tasmania. Market size: 3-4 pounds. Almost all eaten in US is imported frozen from New Zealand. Most is turned into surimi in Japan. FLAVOR: Delicate, sweet, similar to haddock after cooking. Lean, moist, firm, but flakes easily. Cousin of cod. Bright-white flesh. Long, thin filets have strip of fat beneath the lateral line (should be removed to improve flavor). Excellent for breaded and battered food. COOKING: It's fragile. Best isf cooked frozen.

Lake Victoria Perch

AKA Nile perch. Freshwater fish in Africa's lakes and rivers. Originated in Nile River. British introduced it to Lake Victoria in the 60s, and it's all but taken over the lake. Decimating some 350 species of native fish in the process. Can reach 300 pounds and 6 feet in length. Largest freshwater fish in the world. Market size: 6-14 lbs. FLAVOR: Big fillets and a meaty texture, like sea bass and grouper. Mild-flavored, moist, medium-firm meat w/ good flake. Rich in Omega 3s. Snow white cooked flesh. Look for Only small pin bones. High oil content makes it very forgiving, good candidate for smoking. Works well with strong ethnic sauces.

Wahoo

AKA Ono, kingfish, peto, guarapucu. Family of tunas and mackerels. Legend says that foreigners couldn't pronounce Oahu. Ono means "good to eat" in Hawaiian. Most domestic supplies are from Hawaii. Market size: 10 to 30 pounds. White flesh, mild-tasting, with a firm, lean texture and large, circular flake. Compared to chicken or veal in flavor. COOKING: Low fat content. Cooks and tastes like an ultra-light, lean tuna. Good broiled or grilled, especially if marinated.

rockfish

AKA Pacific red snapper, rock cod, black bass, Pacific perch, POP, chilipepper, thorny head. Has more aliases than any other fish. 70 or so fish in this family, from Bering Sea to Baja. The deeper they live (to 300 fathoms), the brighter their coloration. Most important commercial species are the Pacific ocean perch and the widow, canary, chilipepper, yelloweye, vermillion and thornyhead rockfish. Market size: 2 to 5 pounds. FLAVOR: Delicate, nutty sweet. Meat is lean and medium-firm with fine flake. SUPER-delicate flavored. Generally fall into two categories: red-flesh and brown-flesh. Red flesh more desirable because they're less oily. COOKING: Holds up well to baking and remains moist. Firm texture makes good for soups, chowders, stews. In Asia its served whole, steamed or deep fried. Filets hold together better with skin on. Not sturdy enough to grill unless whole.

moi

AKA Pacific threadfin. Historically, Hawaiian fish reserved for royalty. "Fish of the kings." Commoners caught eating it faced severe punishment. Mostly farmed now. FLAVOR: Light gray raw, white cooked. Rich, mild, moist-tender, flaky. Relatively high oil content keeps meat moist in most cooking. Bake or sear fillets skin-side down. Can be served sushi. Oil makes smoking an option as well.

Chilean Sea Bass

AKA Patagonian toothfish, Antarctic cod. Not really bass, but Patagonian toothfish (large, slow-growing fish). First harvested off Chile near Antartic. Huge fish. Market weight 20 lbs. Fresh sea bass is almost always "refreshed" (thawed). FLAVOR: RIch, melt-in-your-mouth flavor. Moderately oily, tender, large, thick flakes. Snow white meat (looks like cod). COOKING: Excellent for grilling, but skinless filets can fall apart on you. Avoid heavy sauces that compete with its flavor. High oil lends to smoking. Same characteristic makes it no good for frying.

Bluefish

AKA Snapper, tailor, chopper. Voracious feeders and fighters, earning name "chopper" by fishermen. Market size: 3-5 lbs. Travel Maine-to-Florida. Eat oil-rich little fish, giving them pronounced flavor. Younger bluefish eat crustaceans, resulting in sweeter, milder flesh. Deteriorates easily, so mostly stays on east coast. FLAVOR: Meat is light putty color to blue-gray w/ brownish tinge. A strong-flavored, dark strip of meat should be removed before cooking. Rich, full-flavor and coarse, moist meat. Edible skin. LARGER THE FISH, MORE PRONOUNCED THE TASTE. COOKING: Gotta cook it within a day of purchase. Fish lovers love the strong, rich flavor--a good complement to acids like lime, lemon juice or toms. Only small bluefish can be fried; larger fish too oily.

Tilapia

AKA St. Peter's Fish, sunfish. Originally from Nile river. Farm raised for decades. Second-most cultured fish in the world, behind carp. Costa Rica and Colombia are major suppliers. Legend holds it was the fish Jesus fed to thousands (thus St. Peter's Fish), which the FDA doesn't allow to be marketed as. Market size: 1-2 lbs. FLAVOR: Mild, sweet, lean-meat, slightly firm, textured. Compared to catfish. Water quality is critical to taste. Poor water results in off-flavor or muddy, grassy taste. COOKING: Need a super-light sauce. Easily overpowered. Attractive skin should be showcased but not eaten (bitter).

Basa/swai

AKA Vietnamese catfish. When trade w/ Vietnam opened in 1994, hit the US. Southeast Asia catfish. FLAVOR: Delicate, white flesh. Fast-flowing waters of Mekong river give it a clean, fresh flavor.

yellowfin tuna

AKA ahi. Long, bright-yellow dorsal fin and a yellow strip down its side. More slender than bluefin. Most tropical species of tuna, abundant in warm waters throughout the Pacific and Atlantic. Market size: 7 1/2 to 20 pounds. High-quality fresh yellowfin comes from Hawaii, Florida, Mexico, southern California and the Gulf of California. FLAVOR: mild, meaty flavor — similar, some say, to swordfish. It's more flavorful than albacore, but leaner than bluefin. COOKED: Excellent raw. 1.5 inch steaks grilled or broiled. Needs almost zero flavor enhancement. Olive oil and seasoning. For milder taste, remove dark lateral line.

Arctic Char

AKA alpine trout, alpine char, sea trout. Member of trout and salmon family. Inuit of Canada eat 'em (freeze 'em like popsicles). Polar, remote, icy waters. FLAVOR: Between salmon and trout (closer to trout). Moderately firm, but finer flake. High fat. Deep red to pale pink flesh. Good for people who like trout but find salmon too strongly flavored. Oil content makes it good for smoking.

monkfish

AKA anglerfish, goosefish, bellyfish. One ugly dude. Huge, head, tiny eyes, enormous mouth with needle teeth. Mouth has a bait hook dangled in front of prey. Known as "poor man's lobster." Fishermen usually remove the tail and liver at sea and throw the rest back. Most tails exported to Japan, used in soups. FLAVOR: Mild, slightly sweet. Tailmeat is firm, dense, boneless. Doesn't flake readily, firml like scallop or lobster meat. Raw it's pale gray, covered with a blue-gray membrane; cooked meat is white. Highly versatile. Benefits from zesty marinades, sauces. Won't fall apart on grill or chowders.

sablefish

AKA black cod, Alaska cod, butterfish, coalfish, skilfish. Name comes from black, almost furry skin. Known mostly by name BLACK COD (but not in cod family). Also called butterfish because of its melt-in-mouth, oil-rich meat. Oil makes sablefish an excellent species for smoking. Caught in deep water along the Pacific Coast from Alaska to southern California The larger the sablefish, the better the quality. Though most sablefish has traditionally gone to Japan, where demand and prices are high, growing in popularity in US. FLAVOR: HIgh-fat content so rich, though fairly mild flavor. Soft, velvety texture, large, white flakes, great source of omega-3. COOKING: Needs salty or acidic flavor to cut the natural oil. Ginger or soy works. Japan has famous Sake kasu (marinated in sake-paste, grilled). Great for barbecuing and smoking.

Black sea bass

AKA blackfish, rock bass, bluefish, tallywag. Small, plump fish related to grouper. One of the most important commercial bass species. Begin life as males and become females between age 2-5. Found from Rhode Island to Florida. Most 1.5 to 3 lbs. Reportedly stay odor-free longer than most spieces. FLAVOR: Mild, fresh, delicate flavor. Tender but firm texture. Snow white when cooked. COOKING: One of the best small fish to bake or grill whole. Chinese cooking. Skin is really attractive, often displayed when served.

Mako shark

AKA blue pointer, bonito shark. Apex of the marine food chain. Feeds on the world's fastest tunas and billfish. Best-tasting of the hundreds of shark species. Two species: longfin and shortfin. SHortfin more common. Excellent alternative to swordfish. Subtropical or temperate waters worldwide. U.S. fisheries exist off southern California, in the Gulf of Mexico off Florida and following the Gulf Stream north to New England. Market size: 124 pounds. FLAVOR: Moist and slightly sweet. Full bodied, meaty. Flavor and texture similar to swordfish, but mako is moister and not as sweet. COOKING: Marinated, blackened, cubed for soups and stews, chunked for kebabs. Wrapping or covering meat during cooking keeps in moisture. Trim red meat away before cooking, since bloodlines have urea and will be bitter.

swordfish

AKA broadbill, espada, emperado. Only one species. Nonschooling fish. Roams temperate or tropical seas. Market size: 50 to 200 pounds. The best catches from the longline fleet come on the full moon, when nights are bright and swordfish are feeding heavily. Thus, the best catches occur during the final quarter of the moon. Frozen-at-sea swordfish, known as "clipper," is often a high-quality product and less expensive than fresh sword. FLAVOR: Moist with slightly sweet. Moderately high oil content. Firm, meaty texture. White to ivory to pink and orange. Doesn't indicate quality. All turns to beige when cooked. COOKING: Any recipe that works for tuna. Usually served baked w/ lemon. Kebabs w/ dipping sauces. Marinating and grilling.

dogfish

AKA cape shark, sand shark, rock salmon (in UK). Bone-free shark. Pacific Coast from Gulf of Alaska to Point Conception, California. North Atlantic coast. Market size is 3 feet, 7-10 lbs. with an average weight of 7 to 10 pounds. Sweet, mild, higher oil than mako and other sharks. Flakey yet firm. Raw meat white, outer flesh reddish (if not cut away, turns brown when cooked). Oil content helps keep the flesh moist. If not cleaned right away, smells of ammonia (sharks don't have urinary tract... urea goes into blood stream, is excreted through skin...). British deep-fry dogfish for fish and chips. Cubed meat for kebabs. Smokes nicely because oily flesh.

cobia

AKA crabeater, cubby yew, cabio, bonito, sergeantfish. Newcomer to US. Like tilapia, but more character and upscale appeal. Market size: 11 lbs. Popular gamefish. Tropical, subtropical, temperate waters. Easily farmed. FLAVOR: Raw cobia meat light tan, cooked snowy white. Sweet, rich, firm, nice flake. Oil content similar to coho salmon, making for moist flesh. Very tough skin. COOKING: Grilled, broiled or sauteed filets. Can also be eaten raw as sushi. Firm, moist flesh good for grillling, takes to marinades and bold sauces.

Crawfish

AKA crawdady, crayfish, mudbug. Freshwater crustaceans. Look like mini lobsters. Rivers, lakes, swamps, canals, wetlands, irrigation ditches. Most important is red swamp crawfish in Southern Louisiana. 90 percent of supply comes from Louisiana, where its farmed as a rotating crop with rice. FLAVOR: Sweet likle lobster meat but more tender and not quite as rich. Alive, they're nearly black. Brilliant red when cooked. Crawfish fat, aka head fat, is yellow and contains most of the flavor. COOKING: Boil in spicy Cajun or Creole seasonings or use Scandinavian dill seasonings. Jambalaya, etoufee and bisque are traditional. Only use live, clean crawfish.

mahimahi

AKA dolphinfish, dorado. Gorgeous fish. From Hawaii, other sub-tropic waters. "Clipper" designates the highest-quality, frozen at sea. Market weight: 5 lbs. Sweet, mildly pronounced flavor like swordfish. Firm but not steaklike. Large, moist flakes. Darker portions of meat trimmed away. Off-white when cooked. COOKING: Does well on grill, even though not oily. Thick skin should be removed.

haddock

AKA finnan haddie. Premium whitefish. Member of cod family--but smaller (2-5 pounds). Bears a distinguishing black mark on shoulder, called a "devil's thumbprint." Found on both sides of North Atlantic. In the UK, revered for fish and chips and as a cold-smoked product — the famous finnan haddie invented in Scotland over a century ago. Delicate flake, slightly sweet taste give it great melt-in-the-mouth appeal. Lean meat firm yet tender, flake is finer than cod. COOKING: Same as cod. Versatile. Smaller ones are easily sauteed. All good in soups and stews. Meat holds together better than cod. Smoked haddock is called "Finnan haddie."

bluefin tuna

Giants. Largest commercial tuna. Record weight of just over 2,000 pounds and a length of over 12 feet. Temperate and tropical waters worldwide. Market size: 200-400 =lbs. TASTE: High fat content, especially prized for sushi. No. 1 sashimi-grade is best. No. 2 is grill-grade. Darkest and fattiest of tuna. Cooked, it's off-white or ivory. Firmness and appearance of beef steaks. COOKING: Overcooked tuna is tough and tasteless. Treat like a sirloin steak (best on raw side). Good with red wine.

pampano

Gourmands describe the Atlantic pompano as "the world's most edible fish." Flat-bodied, pan-sized. Easy to eat whole, which shows off its beautifully silver skin. Harvested from Virginia to Texas, but primarily off Florida's west coast. Commercial landings are limited, price is high. That makes the pompano a tempting target for substitution — and an easy one, since there are several different species of pompano within the confusing Carangidae, or jack, family. THE ATLANTIC POMPANO IS THE STAR, often confused with three less delectable relatives: the similar-looking permit, the palometa and the gafftopsail pompano. But it's not that difficult to tell the real McCoy: Any fish bigger than 3 pounds can be eliminated, since market-sized pompano average 2 pounds. FLAVOR: Technically a round fish, but narrow-bodied. Edible skin, no scaling required. Meat is firm but finely flaked, with a sweet, mild flavor. Cooked white flesh with moderate fat content. COOKING: Lends itself to whole preparations, since it's easy to eat off bone. Can also be halved lengthwise for two long filets. Simply broil it with lemon and butter. Most famous preparation is en papillote.

turbot

Highest-end fish there is. Flatfish. Primary producers are the Netherlands, Denmark and the United Kingdom. Farm-raised turbot are generally smaller (1 to 4 pounds) and milder in flavor than wild turbot, which can reach 30 pounds but average 10 pounds. Several lesser-quality species of flatfish are sometimes passed off as European turbot, including Greenland turbot and some West Coast flounders. FLAVOR: bright-white appearance when cooked. The firm meat has a large flake and an excellent mild flavor. Rim of fatty tissue on fin side contains a row of "kernels" of snow-white meat. COOKING: Don't overdress this beauty. Good baked whole, bones add flavor. Can be overcooked in dry heat. Steam, poach, pan-fry. Don't grill.

Albacore

Highly prized, mild tuna. 10-60 lbs. High-fat. Only tuna that can honestly be called white. Most expensive canned tuna.

pacific oysters

Japanese transplant. Brought to the US after the Olympia species crashed. Hearty, easy to propagate. Washington state leads North American production, followed by British Columbia, California, Oregon and Alaska. Nearly always farm-raised. The deep-cupped, smaller Kumamoto is the Pacific oyster held in highest repute by Northwest slurpers. FLAVOR: Mild and sweet, briny flavor and crisp texture. Those from California have stronger aftertaste. Try them on the grill. When the shell opens, they're done.

King crab

Largest commercial crab. Spiny shells and large, spidery legs. Most walking crabs have 10 legs. But kings have six walking legs, one large "killer" claw and one small "feeder" claw. BEST MEAT IS THE MERUS, FROM UPPER SECTION OF WALKING LEG. Grow to 6 feet, from 4-10 lbs. Red is most common, but also blue and brown or golden. Found in shallow waters off Southeast Alaska in Berin Sea. Often march in herds across the flats. FLAVOR: Sweet, moist, rich. Firmer and coarser than Dungeness. Body meat is flakier than leg meat. Almost all king crab sold in US market has been cooked and brine frozen. If processed correctly, should not taste salty. COOKING: Gentle heating is all that's required. Add to soups last five minutes of cooking. Steam for just about five minutes.

sea scallop

Largest crop of scallops. Since sea scallops die out of water, they are always shucked at sea and kept on ice. Only the adductor muscle, which allows scallops to "swim" by clicking their shells together, is eaten. This mobility helps them escape pollutants that immobile bivalves like mussels, clams and oysters can't avoid. Largest commercially available scallops. Sweet, rich taste that ranges from mild to briny. COOKING: Large size makes 'em good grilling. Don't microwave--can explode.

American shad

Largest member of the herring family. Considered the tastiest of the world's 31 shad species. Seasonal novelty on restaurant menus, and shad bakes are a rite of spring in many Mid-Atlantic communities. Shad roe considered "foie gras" of seafood. Market size: 3-5 pounds. FLAVOR: Raw flesh appears gray. Cooked, from pinkish beige to deep brown. Darker the flesh, the most richly flavored. Sweet, rich and tender, with high oil content. Fans refer to the flavor as "poor man's salmon." COOKING: Tons of small bones, a bitch to cook whole. Shad roe can be sautéed in butter or braised in white wine.

amberjack

Lean, mild fish. South Atlantic. Difficult to find in markets. Usually sold whole.

anchovy

More than 20 species marketed as anchovy. Small, silvery. True anchovy comes from Mediterranean and Euro. Delicious fresh, salt-cured, canned in oil. Used sparingly to flavor foods. To filet, run your thumbnail from head to tail on both sides of the spine. Used for Vietnamese nuoc nam. Before using canned fillets, rinse well or soak for 30 minutes.

sockeye salmon

Most valuable U.S. salmon species and the premium canned salmon. Range from California's Sacramento River system north to the Bering Sea and then south to northern Hokkaido. Bristol Bay, Alaska, has the largest sockeye run, during which millions of fish are taken. Market size: 4 to 10 pounds. Not farmed. FLAVOR: For its long migration, carries a lot of fat. Rich in omega 3s. Nice, rich flavor. Some even like it better than Chinook. Reddest fleshed of all wild salmon. Cooked meat remains red, firm. COOKING: Light marinade and simple grilling.

greenlipped mussel

Native to New Zealand. Market size is usually 3 1/2 to 4 inches. Look for the grower's name on the mussels — a dependable sign of safety and high quality. FLAVOR: Sweet, tender, delicate, plump and juicy. Meat color varies from apricot (female) to cream (male). The color has no effect on flavor. Because they grow on ropes, rarely have grit or sand. Unlike blue mussel, greens shell is slightly open. CLoses when it's subjected to stress, freshwater or rough handling.

smelt

Nine species. Most ubiquitous is rainbow smelt. Catches are greatest in the spring, Silvery little fish reportedly take their name from the Anglo-Saxon word "smoelt," meaning shiny. Relished for their wonderful, fresh odor, reminiscent of freshly mowed grass or sliced cucumber, which has earned them the nickname "cucumberfish." MARKET SIZE: 6 inches. Soft bones; small, cooked, smelts can be eaten bones and all. With larger smelts, the cooked meat flakes readily off the bones. The delicate skin is also eaten. FLAVOR: Lean, white flesh. Fine flaked. Fresh, sweet flavor. COOKING: Cooked and eaten whole. Deep or pan fried.

Dover sole

No true soles in America. Dover sole one of the cornerstones of continental cuisine. Thick-bodied flatfish. Has eyes on the right-side. West coast sells an imposter. Best grounds are said to be the North Sea and the Bay of Biscay. FLAVOR: Most respected fish. Thin yet firm fillets that hold together well in any prep. Mild and sweet. Described as being "more like beef." COOKING: thin fillet is prone to overcooking. Better suited to poaching, steaming or saucing. Dry-heating not encouraged. WHen sauteeing, slip a slice of raw potto under the thin part of the tail to cook more evenly. Excellent cooked on the bone.

Mackerel

Not mild. Looks like tuna, but smaller. SHaped for swimming, hits speeds up to 70mph. Cold Atlantic waters. Immature mackerel--called TINKERS--are spring treats in New England. FLAVOR: Rich, pronounced. Soft, flaky, moist meat. Outer bands of dark, strong-tasting meat along midline should be cut. Raw fish looks grayish and oily, but firms up to off-white/beige cooked. One of healthiest fish (high omega-3). Oil makes it good for barbecue or smoking. Lime marinade smooths the taste and firms and whitens the meat. Euros temper the strong flavor with acidic sauce (gooseberry, unsweetened cranberry sauce).

chum salmon

ONe of the longest travelers, from Del Mar to ARctic Ocean to Japan. Market size: 6 to 12 pounds. Many buyers still shun chums because of the fish's inconsistent quality. FLAVOR: Lower oil content than other salmon. Mild flavor. Meatiest and firmest in texture of the wild species. Pinkish-orange flesh. COOKING: Good in casseroles or other dishes where color is not a consideration. Leaner, doesn't grill or broil as well. Better to use with recipes that help the fish retain its moisture.

Black tiger shrimp

One of Asia's major exports. Most farmed. Largest shrimp. Market size: 9 to 11 inches. FLAVOR: Mild, almost bland flavor compared to Gulf shrimp. Softer cooked meat than any other species. COOKING: Shrimp cocktail shrimp. Good with pasta or casseroles, since they can withstand tossing. Thick shells hold heat, so cook more quickly.

alewife

One of most popular herring. Small, river fish from Atlantic. High-fat. Fine, soft texture.

mullet

Over 100 species. Striped mullet big in South, for roe and flesh. Most from Florida. Rich, nutty taste. High oil content and flavor earned it the nickname "Biloxi bacon." Cooked flesh white, firm, juicy. Dark lateral line of fatty flesh should be removed. Oil content makes for good grilling or hot smoking. For milder flavor, skin before cooking.

halibut

Pacific, northern and Alaska halibut. Pacific Halibut is the largest of all flatfish (up to 8 feet long, four feet across and over 600 pounds). Market size: from 10 to 200 pounds. Found from Northern California to the Bering Sea and westward to Russia and the Sea of Japan. Available nearly all year. For the first three months of winter, however, it's scarce. TRAITS: Retains moisture well in frozen state, keeps texture when cooked. Very mild, sweet, lean fish with fine-grained, dense meat that dries out if overcooked. Uncooked, should be translucent meat (not dull, yellowish or dried out). Cooked, the snow-white meat is flaky and tender but still firm. COOKING: Extremely versatile. Ideal for kebabs.

barracuda

Predatory fish. Baja, California, Caliifornia to Alaska. Most market size is 3-6 pounds (Great Barracuda, not really eaten, can reach 100 lbs). FLAVOR: Creamy tan flesh raw, off-white cooked. Firm, large flake, moderate fat. Full, meaty flavor. COOKING: Hold together well for grilling or broiling. Stands up to marinades.

sturgeon

Prehistoric fish. Today most is farmed. California white sturgeon prized for its superior flavor. Market weight: 18-22 pounds. Farmed white sturgeon has a mild, delicate flavor, less pronounced than that of green sturgeon. Lean flesh firm and meaty, like chicken breast or veal. Tough skin inedible. COOKING: Good for meat or chicken eaters because of texture. Use in recipes that call for veal. Marinates well. Only sautee filets for 2-3 minutes per side.

Bay scallop

Small cousin of sea scallops. Oversoaked scallops look artificially shiny, opaque and flabby and will have a soapy feel and aftertaste. FLAVOR: Mild and sweet. Considered the best tasting scallop. COOKING: Small, cook quickly. Done as soon as the outside turns opaque.

eel

Spawn in the Sargasso Sea (in Bermuda Triangle, east of Florida) but mature in fresh water. Most caught in freshwater. Plentiful in New York, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia. Very firm texture, high fat and full, distinctive flavor. White when cooked, small flake. COOKING: USe methods that help eliminate some of the oil. Avoid sauces that compete with rich flavor. Instead, opt for acid to counter fatty meat. Not good for sushi (unless cooked... unagi).

surumi

This is "KRAB." SImulated shellfsih made from cooked, mild, lean, white-fleshed fish. Most often pollock and hake/whiting. The fish is deboned, minced, rinsed and rendered into an odorless, white paste called surimi to which starches, red coloring, flavorings, binders and stabilizers are added. This paste is kneaded and braided to the desired texture and shape and then cooked. Mimics lobster, shrimp, scallops and even lox. FLAVOR: high-grade stuff is textured and flavored to closely resemble what it's imitating. Should be firm (too firm means too much starch was added). Mushiness is poor quality. COOKING: Use it in recipes calling for crabmeat, lobster or shrimp. Used in salads.

rainbow trout

Trout is the oldest aquaculture in North America (1880s). Idaho grows 70 percent. All farmed. Salmon family. Not rainbow skinned (pinkish lavendar). Steelhead trout is a seagoing rainbow. Market size of 8 to 10 ounces FLAVOR: Mild, with a delicate, nut-like flavor. Tender, flaky and soft. COOKING: Perfect for individual servings. Don't overpower with strong sauces. Little butter, lemon and parsley is all you need.

American lobster

Two powerful claws--crusher and a ripper. Found in the North Atlantic from Labrador to North Carolina. Market sizes range from "chickens" (1 to 1 1/8 pound) to jumbos (over 3 1/2 pounds). A lobster sheds its shell annually, revealing a soft new one underneath. Though the newly molted lobster is much larger, its meat is watery and flaccid. FLAVOR: Tail meat is firmer than the claws. Steaming is best, to not toughen meat; some say boiling seals in the flavor.

aida

Way of serving flatfish fillets. Like florentine (mornay, spinach) plus paprika.

European Oysters

Were farmed by the Romans. Today farmed off New England, California and Washington state and, to a lesser degree, in France, England and Norway. So-called "flat" oysters have a shallow shell and are harvested at 3 to 4 inches long. Often incorrectly called "Belons." In France, that name is protected by law; only oysters grown in the Belon River estuary of Brittany. FLAVOR: Finer flavor, pronounced, distinctly salty, sweet to flinty overtone. Slight metallic aftertaste, almost like sucking on a penny. COOKING: Famous raw w/ squirt of lemon and drop of Tabasco.

squid

West Coast "market squid" (L. opalescens) are 3 to 5 inches long; East Coast squid, including long-finned "winter squid" (L. pealei) and short-finned "summer squid" (Illex illecebrosus), are a bit larger. Summer squid is largest commercial species. PUblic prefers white meat, so sometimes "bleached" in brine. TASTE: Mild, subtle sweetness. Body covered with thin skin, removed before cooking. COOKING: Secret is to either cook it quickly or for around 30 minutes. Overcooked, becomes super tough (couple minutes is enough). If you do overcook, keep cooking for 20 minutes more, and it will become tender again.

walleye

Widely hailed as the best-tasting freshwater fish. Largest of the perch family. Canada and North-Central US lakes. Named for its highly reflective, cat-like eyes. Market size: 1 to 5 pounds. Wildly popular with sport fishermen. FLAVOR: Fine-flaked. Prized for thickness and succulent, sweet, mild flavor. Few bones. Clear white meat cooked. COOKING: Super-versatile. Batter frying locks in juiciness, popular among fans. Simple preps are best to showcase flavor.