Chapter 8

Crocking

"Excessive rubbing off of color." Color in a dyed fabric that rubs off rather easily onto other fabric surfaces. May be caused by inadequate scouring (soaping) at the completion of the dyeing cycle. (DG when leather is prayed it has to be spray-backed, so it doesn't crock.) Example- when you sit on a sofa with blue jeans and some of the blue comes off.

What is a color standard?

(?) Mills need as large a piece as possible because they take the standard and put it into a calibrator and the calibrator spits out a formula. Always make sure to keep a piece of whatever the color standard happens to be for your own archives. If you run out of an old piece of fabric or yarn, you need to find another standard.

Why is the environmental impact of natural dyes worse than their synthetic equivalents?

1. Additional chemicals are required to fix natural dye into or onto the fiber (e.g. mordant). Some are not environmentally friendly. 2. Often more dye is required than synthetic dye when dyeing material. 3. Large amounts of land and machinery are required to produce large quantities of plants to produce sufficient quantities of natural dye. 4. A wide range of bright colors cannot typically be achieved at the present time. 5. The best compromise for commercial use is to use low impact synthetic fiber-reactive dyes when the dyeing process uses a smaller amount of auxiliary chemical, requires less water and uses less energy to heat the water.

Advantages of Synthetic Dyes

1. Greater Color range 2. Improved colorfastness 3. Better shading and consistency.(If a fabric fades, it fades the same way) 4. More reliable resources vs natural dyes

Pigment

1. Microscopic colored particles that adhere to a fabric through the use of a resin binder. 2. Unlike dyes, pigments are insoluble in water and do not unite or combine in any way with the textile fiber. 3. Can be applied rapidly and economically, and in general pigment dyed fabrics are less costly than aqueous dyed fabrics. 4. Come in a wide variety of available colors and result in excellent color shade matching from lot to lot. 5. A dimensional print will use a pigment dye. Also, solid color pigments are applied by the pad method of dyeing

Examples of color standards

1. Old piece of fabric. 2. Old yarn 3. Pantone books, (universal color standard book- DG says the biggest problem is that it is on paper. But for fabric there is also a difference), 4. Scotdic- made in Japan- everything is on fabric. Costs about $2,500. They also have a wool book, poly book and cotton book. The poly mimics silk.

Beam Dyeing (Yarns)

1. Only used when an entire warp beam is dyed. 2. The yarn is wound onto a spool or beam and then placed in the beam-dyeing machine. 2. Beam dyeing of yarns is more economical method than skein or package dyeing,

Jig Dyeing is under what category of dyeing? Define.

1. Piece Dyeing 2. Involves treating fabric in open width in which the fabric is passed repeatedly from one roller to another through a stationary dye bath. 3. Places tension on the fabric which causes flattening and degradation in the hand of the material. 5. More economical than jet dyeing since runs of several thousand yards are possible.

What category of dyeing is jet dyeing? Define.

1. Piece Dyeing. 2. No pressure and little tension occurs on the material when this process is used, so even delicate fabrics can be dyed using this process.

Pad Dyeing is under what category of dyeing? Define

1. Piece Dying. 2. Accomplished with a machine called a dye pad. Like jig dyeing, this process places tension on the fabric while it is passing through the pad which causes flattening and degradation in the hand of the material. Most pad dyeing is done as part of a continuous dye system.

Beam Dyeing (Piece Dyeing)

1. Practically identical to beam dyeing used for yarns. 2. Fabric remains stationary. 3. Rapid and economical method for fabrics of lightweight, open construction. As much as 10,000 yards can be wound on the beam and placed into one dye bath.4. Not subject to the stresses common to jig and pad methods.

Problems with Synthetic Dyes

1. Shade variation- rush time can impact color 2. Fading 3. Bleeding 4. Color staining

Reactive Dye

1. Used mostly on cellulosics. To a lesser degree on protein fibers and nylon. 2. Produces bright shades. 3. Generally good to excellent fastness to light, laundering, perspiration and crocking. 4. It is a difficult dye with which to attain close shade matching.

Acid Dyes

1. Used on protein fibers, nylon, spandex, special type acid-dyeable acrylic. 2. Produces bright colors. 3. Most are not colorfast to washing, but have an excellent color fastness to dry cleaning. 3. Widely used on silk.

When was first synthetic dye discovered?

1856- William Henry Perkin discovered mauve. Today almost all industrial dyeing uses synthetic dyes, since they produce a greater range of color, improved color fastness, better shade consistency, and more reliable resources.

Barre

A horizontal band of off-shaded yarns extending across the fabric. Caused by differences in size (diameter) or in tension of the yarn.

Dye Lots

A record taken during the dyeing of yarn to identify yarn that received its coloration in the same vat at the same time. A ticket is than attached to each lot before shipping. Slight differences in temperature, dyeing time, and other factors can result in different shades of the same color between different dye lots of otherwise identical production.

Shade Bar

A shade change in a fabric that appears as a horizontal selvage-to-selvage change. Caused by a filling change (new filling bobbin) or loom stop and subsequent start-up.

Resin

A solution used as a binder in pigment dyeing.

Cross-dyeing is a special dyeing effect. Define.

A yarn, fabric or garment made with two or more generic fiber types having different dye affinities are dyed in a single bath containing two different dye classes. Each class of dye colors only one type of fiber. Two different colors can be dyed in one dye bath or either type of fiber may be dyed leaving the other white.* A more economical and quicker way to produce the same effects obtained by other methods. For example if you wanted a sweater in a heather-like effect, cross-dyeing is cheaper than stock-dyed to get the same look.

Tone-on-Tone Effects

An effect also possible using one dye bath. The effect is light and dark shades of the same color on a fabric containing two different types of a fiber in the same fabric. Both fibers have an affinity with the same dye class, but one has a stronger affinity than the other and combines with a greater quantity of the dye becoming a deeper color. Only achieved with specific varieties of nylon, poly and acrylic fibers.

Scouring

Basically the cleaning of the fabric

Dyeing define, explain, other names

Conventional or aqueous dyeing. This use of chemical dyes called dyestuffs and the treatment of the textile material in aqeous solutions. Fabric is scoured (cleaned) - dyed- scoured (cleaned).

List special dyeing effects?

Cross-dyeing, Union-dyeing, Tone-on-tone effects

Best way to read color is how?

Daylight standard in a light box.

Uneven Shade (Shading)

Differences in the shade of a fabric from edge to edge (selvage to selvage or selvage to center) or from one end of a fabric to the other (end-to-end).

Top Dyeing

Dyeing of fiber before it is spun into yarn and serves the same purpose as stock dyeing- that is to produce a soft, heatherlike color effect. Top refers to fibers of wool from which the shorter fibers have been removed. It uses longer fibers as compared to stock dyeing where shorter fibers can be used. Top is thus the select long fibers used to spin worsted yarn. An example of top-dye fabrics included gabardine and serge.

Technical Sheets

Includes information about shrinkage, color fastness (all done in percentages.)

Color Matching

It is not an exact science. Remember color always comes out differently. Designers need to appreciate that. It just isn't an exact science when you are mixing dyes.Once a color standard is determined, it goes to the mill and gets calibrated- the mill then sends you back a lab dip.

Skein Dyeing

Most costly yarn dye method. Used for hand-knitted looks. Large, loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn are immersed into dye vats that are designed for this purpose. Produces soft, lofty yarns.

Lab Dip

Once the dyer has formulated a color, the sample swatch of the finished dyeing is made and sent to the 'customer.'

Where do natural dyes comes from?

Plants, insects and minerals.

Stock Dyeing (Melange and Marled)

Refers to the dyeing of fibers or stock before it is spun into yarn. Used mostly for woolen materials when heatherlike color effects are desired. Example- tweed fabrics with a heatherlike color effect such as Harris tweed.

Union Dyeing

Same as cross-dyeing except that instead of multicolor effects, one solid color is produced. Two or more fibers are dyed the same color by using different dye classes of the same color.

Basic steps for conventional dyeing

Scoured- dyed- scoured again

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TFPIA)

States specific information about fiber content of textile products be included on labels where one, the consumer can easily see them and two, securely attached at the time of sale and delivery to the consumer. Applies to apparel and household textiles with the exception of certain consumer articles. The most important items that must be on the label include: 1- Generic Names of the fiber. Fiber Trade names can be included as well. 2- The percentage of fiber content by weight, listed vertically and descending from highest to lowest

Dye Class

The classification (grouping) of dyes according to which fibers they react with.

Off Shade

The color of the dyed fabric does not match the standard color or referenced sample.

Define Piece Dyeing (p. 171) List the 4 most common methods of piece dyeing?

The dyeing of a cloth after it has been woven or knitted. It is the most common method of dyeing used. Methods for this type of dyeing include: jet dyeing, jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing.

Garment Dyeing

The dyeing of completed garments. Typically non-tailored and simpler forms of apparel.

Yarn Dyeing define. List 3 methods of yarn dyeing.

The dyeing of yarns before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics. Main reason to use is to produce plaids, stripes and checks. Many designers don't like to use yarn dyed because you have to choose from a manufacturer's pre-existing inventory and color. Yarn dyes also take longer to produce and add an additional step vs piece dyeing. No benefit to using a yarn dye vs a piece dye. Yarns may be dyed in different forms: skeins, packages or beams.

Color Bleeding

The lost of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in a liquid. The liquid subsequently becomes colored, often coloring other fabrics in the liquid (e.g., washing process.)

Metamerism

The name of a condition when two colors match each other under one light condition- for example, daylight- but look different from each other in a different light- such as indoor light illumination. (p. 169)

Colorfastness

The property of a dyed or printed textile to resist color loss or fading resulting from various conditions of use. May include laundering, dry cleaning, sunlight, bleach, perspiration, environmental gases, swimming pool chlorine and

Solution dyeing (dope dyeing)

Unlike dye and pigment dyeing, solution dyeing is part of the process of manufacturing fibers. The coloring agent is added to the liquid spinning solution before it is extruded through the spinnerette. The liquid spinning solution is sometimes called fiber dope. The color becomes part of the fiber itself and is permanent.

Continuous Dye System

Used for pad dyeing. Large quantities of fabric run through the dying process without stopping. The set up includes sections for preparing the fabric, dyeing and washing. Less color control than with other methods.

Color Flare

Used to indicate a fabric that has changed color because of the change of light source.

What does it mean when a dye has an affinity for the fiber?

When a particular dye is capable of combining with a fiber and can impart color to it, the dye has an affinity for that fiber. ( Thousands of different dyestuffs are used for textiles and none are capable of combining with all textile fibers.)

Package Dyeing

Yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called a package. Package-dyed yarns do not retain the softness and loftiness that skein-dyed yarns do. Widely used for most types of yarns found in knitted and woven fabrics.

A color multiplier

when you have an item that you can order in a range of colors, such as silk blouses.