Chemical relaxation
Neutralizing
Applying a chemical that reconnects the disulfide bonds (thioglycolate relaxers) or reforms into lanthionine bonds (hydroxide relaxers) to the newly reformed position.
Base form relaxer
(Or lye) requires a protective cream applied to the hairline and scalp.
Relaxation test
A curl reduction test performed during a chemical service. It consists of smoothing an area of hair with the spine of a tail comb to determine if hair is sufficiently relaxed.
Neutralizing shampoo
A lathering form of neutralizer used in conjunction with chemical relaxers to keep hair in the new reconstructed position.
Thioglycolate relaxers
Chemical compounds with the additive ingredient ammonia. These are the mildest form of relaxers used to remove curl from the hair, and are compatible with a soft curl permanent.
Hydroxide relaxers
Contain the chemical compound hydroxide, which come in various types such as sodium, potassium, lithium and guanidine. Strongest relaxer with an alkaline range from 10 to 14
Curly hair
Hair consisting of a series of twist/turns throughout the strand creating a coiling effect.
Type 1
Mild relaxer. Best used on fine texture, severe porosity, has been color treated and requires moderate relaxation
Sodium relaxer
Or lye. pH 12.5 to 14. Quickest processing time. Best used on curly, resistant, coarse texture and/or for maximum relaxation.
No base form relaxer
Or no lye. Does not require a protective cream applied to skin or scalp.
Scalp condition
Part of the client consultation. The surface of the scalp is checked for sores, irritations or disease.
Curl reduction testing
Performed during the chemical treatment to determine if hair is sufficiently processed or completed.
Preliminary strand testing
Performed prior to recie in a chemical relaxer to determine if the hair is capable of receiving a chemical.
Type 2
Regular relaxer used on medium texture, normal porosity and requires average to optimum relaxation.
Type 3
Super relaxer. Best used on hair with a coarse texture, resistant porosity and requires maximum relaxation, should be applied quickly and accurately
Processing
The application of a chemical agent to the hair, followed by a series of steps necessary to produce a reformed hair structure.
Curl reduction
The determined amount of curl removed from curly hair.
Base
The protective cream applied to hairline and scalp prior to the chemical relaxing treatment.
Sodium hydroxide
The strongest type of relaxer containing the chemical compound hydroxide and is best suited for hair with a strong curl pattern.
Non lathering neutralizer
Used in conjunction with thioglycolate relaxers. Reforms the disulfide bonds broken during processing. This process is called oxidation and is done as the final step of a soft curl permanent.
Lathering or neutralizing shampoo
Used with hydroxide relaxers. Reforms the disulfide bonds broken during processing. Removes remaining chemicals and restores hair to its normal acidic pH
Guanidine/calcium relaxer
pH 10 to 13. Best used on less resistant, medium text and/or for average to moderate relaxation
Potassium relaxer
pH 12 to 13.5. Quick processing time; best used on medium texture, less resistant hair and/or relaxation
Lithium relaxer
pH 12 to 13.5. Slightly slower processing time. Best used on less resistant, medium texture and/or for optimum to average relaxation
Ammonium bisulfite relaxer
pH 6.5 to 8. Best used for average to moderate relaxation and/or fine texture or tinted hair, also known as the mildest relaxer
Ammonium thioglycolate relaxer
pH over 10. Best used on less resistant, fine to medium texture and/or for optimum relaxation; compatible with a soft curl permanent.
