Chemical relaxation

Neutralizing

Applying a chemical that reconnects the disulfide bonds (thioglycolate relaxers) or reforms into lanthionine bonds (hydroxide relaxers) to the newly reformed position.

Base form relaxer

(Or lye) requires a protective cream applied to the hairline and scalp.

Relaxation test

A curl reduction test performed during a chemical service. It consists of smoothing an area of hair with the spine of a tail comb to determine if hair is sufficiently relaxed.

Neutralizing shampoo

A lathering form of neutralizer used in conjunction with chemical relaxers to keep hair in the new reconstructed position.

Thioglycolate relaxers

Chemical compounds with the additive ingredient ammonia. These are the mildest form of relaxers used to remove curl from the hair, and are compatible with a soft curl permanent.

Hydroxide relaxers

Contain the chemical compound hydroxide, which come in various types such as sodium, potassium, lithium and guanidine. Strongest relaxer with an alkaline range from 10 to 14

Curly hair

Hair consisting of a series of twist/turns throughout the strand creating a coiling effect.

Type 1

Mild relaxer. Best used on fine texture, severe porosity, has been color treated and requires moderate relaxation

Sodium relaxer

Or lye. pH 12.5 to 14. Quickest processing time. Best used on curly, resistant, coarse texture and/or for maximum relaxation.

No base form relaxer

Or no lye. Does not require a protective cream applied to skin or scalp.

Scalp condition

Part of the client consultation. The surface of the scalp is checked for sores, irritations or disease.

Curl reduction testing

Performed during the chemical treatment to determine if hair is sufficiently processed or completed.

Preliminary strand testing

Performed prior to recie in a chemical relaxer to determine if the hair is capable of receiving a chemical.

Type 2

Regular relaxer used on medium texture, normal porosity and requires average to optimum relaxation.

Type 3

Super relaxer. Best used on hair with a coarse texture, resistant porosity and requires maximum relaxation, should be applied quickly and accurately

Processing

The application of a chemical agent to the hair, followed by a series of steps necessary to produce a reformed hair structure.

Curl reduction

The determined amount of curl removed from curly hair.

Base

The protective cream applied to hairline and scalp prior to the chemical relaxing treatment.

Sodium hydroxide

The strongest type of relaxer containing the chemical compound hydroxide and is best suited for hair with a strong curl pattern.

Non lathering neutralizer

Used in conjunction with thioglycolate relaxers. Reforms the disulfide bonds broken during processing. This process is called oxidation and is done as the final step of a soft curl permanent.

Lathering or neutralizing shampoo

Used with hydroxide relaxers. Reforms the disulfide bonds broken during processing. Removes remaining chemicals and restores hair to its normal acidic pH

Guanidine/calcium relaxer

pH 10 to 13. Best used on less resistant, medium text and/or for average to moderate relaxation

Potassium relaxer

pH 12 to 13.5. Quick processing time; best used on medium texture, less resistant hair and/or relaxation

Lithium relaxer

pH 12 to 13.5. Slightly slower processing time. Best used on less resistant, medium texture and/or for optimum to average relaxation

Ammonium bisulfite relaxer

pH 6.5 to 8. Best used for average to moderate relaxation and/or fine texture or tinted hair, also known as the mildest relaxer

Ammonium thioglycolate relaxer

pH over 10. Best used on less resistant, fine to medium texture and/or for optimum relaxation; compatible with a soft curl permanent.