history of costume
"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called:
Paniers
The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called:
Petticoat breeches Sherryvallies Rhinegraves A and C only
Fashion illustrations printed
- 1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)
The fashion for "slashing and puffing" was inspired by:
1477 Swiss victory over Burgundy
Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in:
A The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women B The fashion in Italy for shoes that were not so long and pointed as in Northern Europe C The designs and motifs in some woven Italian textiles A and C only
An acceleration of fashion change
A greater availability of fabric during the Industrial Revolution led to:
Pomade
A perfumed ointment made of apples or wheat paste worn on the hair was:
Before lace
All trimming & edging was Cutwork • Limited to geometric designs - Lace is more free-form
When the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy" used the term "macaroni" in the late 1770s, it was making reference to:
American attempts to be fashionable
Which of the following are undergarments today, but were a visible part of outergarments in the 16th century?
Petticoats
2. The "Modern Man" look includes:
Plainer fabric Closer fitting coat and shorter waistcoat Breeches All of the above
bombast
Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with bombast
How might a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing?
Purchase used clothing Join a "breeches club" Save enough money over a period of several years All of the above
The _______ is also called a "Puritan" collar.
Rabat
Eschelles
Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called:
Empire dresses
The Robe en Chemise, made of sheer cotton, is the forerunner of the
Polonaise, milkmaid
This dress is worn a la ______ and was part of _________ style.
Rococo— Influences on Costume
Trade with China and India - Cotton—lighter/pastel colors - Floral motifs • Industrial Revolution technology begins
In the second half of the 18th century, children ceased being dressed as miniature adults. This was partially a result of writings by the French philosopher, Jean-Jacques Rousseau who championed changes in children's clothing in the direction of greater freedom. T OR F
True
Louis XIV "The Sun King" is wearing a periwig, cravat, and red heels on his shoes. t or f
True
Smocks and Short gowns were working class clothing during the 18th century.
True
The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for Court Dress in England.
True
Types of Breeches Trunk hose
Trunk hose
Funnel boots
Wider as get to knee Sometimes foldover spurs
The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated:
With the Swiss Army
Red high heels and soles
Worn by European royalty - Associated with Louis XIV • and his Court
the frock coat was
Worn instead of the coat in informal situations Inspired by the English Country Look Now an accepted option to coat All of the above
Boothose
Worn with funnel boots Folded over Showed lace
The "Flea Cravat" was worn to keep fleas off one's body. True False
false
chopines
high platform shoes
A major change in the fit of stockings came about when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I. True False
true
Late Baroque -1660-1715 Restoration
- Charles II from exile in France - Louis XIV (14th) The Sun King
• Periwigs
- Full, very curly wigs
Cravat
- Long strip of linen with lace edges
Which of the following were devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?
Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins Balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance Patches to cover skin blemishes All of the above
Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of:
Banyans Pastel colors Floral motifs All of the above
Gowns—Spanish Influence
Bodice becomes more rigid • Straight waistline develops V in front
Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with:
Bombast
______ were platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans.
Chopines
Spain to Italy to England
Closed ruff Split skirt spanish farthingale
Tailors and Dressmakers
Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men.
When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the:
Codpiece
France and Spain
Defeat of Spanish Armada Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues • Fashion centered in Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times
Early Baroque— Men
Doublet with peplum
Italian Renaissance 1400-1600
Embroidery - Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork
Starch was used:
First in Ancient Egypt To maintain shape on collars and ruffs In Europe beginning in the Renaissance All of the above
Late Baroque—Women
Fontange Headdress/headpiece Mantua Petticoat
This Late Baroque woman is wearing a _______.
Fontange headress Mantua (dress) Saque A and B only
This Cavalier is wearing _____ boots.
Funnel
Early Baroque—Women
Gown with ¾ sleeves - Large turned-back lace cuffs - Wrist and forearm exposed
"A la Hedgehog" was a type of:
Hairstyle
If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that:
His uncle was old fashioned
The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of:
Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns
Northern Renaissance-Silhouette
Northern Renaissance-Silhouette
Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?
Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments
Asian and Middle Eastern
Mantua-style gowns for women, men's dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume.
Frock coat
More informal • Flat, turned-down collars • Leather or sturdy woven cloth • After 1770 - Accepted for formal wear
The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because
Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century.
Manteau/Mantua
Sleeved bodice with overskirt Late Baroque attached • Fabric pulled to back - Drawn back like curtains • Typical of Late Baroque
Rococo—Women
Softer floral motifs • Sheer cotton from India - becomes symbol of luxury
A black ribbon tied around the neck is called a
Solitaire
In the Baroque period, the ______ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale
Spanish
__________ style influenced Renaissance fashion.
Spanish
Medici Collar & Stomacher
Stomacher: • Triangular shaped bodice piece • Sewn onto front of gown
Which of the following may have derived from Middle Eastern styles?
The manteau The vest The fontange A and B only
Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were:
a preference for bleached, blonde hair high, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead all of the above
English Country Dress
lighter colors - Cotton
In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch.
needle lace
rabat
square collar layover
Baldrick
sword belt
The style that developed in the last half of the 18th century and was influenced at least in part by archeological excavations of the ancient Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum was called:
the Neoclassic style
Spanish farthingale
triangle shape
Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another. Italian influences in styles were brought to France by Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king. True or false
tru
Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men. True or false
true
Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.
true
In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible. true false
true
Queen Elizabeth I is wearing a Medici collar, stomacher, and wheel farthingale. True or False
true
The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume in the 16th century. true false
true
This man is wearing a doublet with a peascod belly and trunk hose. True or False
true
Tights/Hose • Bias cut pieces merged into one garment
wrinkly butt picture
Starch (for ruffs)
• Egyptians used it • Revival comes along with lace
Late Baroque—Men
• Elimination of doublet - Beginning of modern dress
Early Baroque
• English Civil War - Cavaliers (Royalists) - Roundheads (Puritans) • Split in ideology AND fashion
Development of Lace
• Free-form luxury fabric Indication of wealth • English and French smuggle it - From Belgium
Banyan
• Influence from India - Painted/printed textiles - Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of Banyans, pastel colors, and floral motifs
France
• Madame de Pompadour* - Becomes Louis XVs mistress in 1754 - Fashion influencer
Embroidery and Metallic threads
• New cotton textiles from India - Indiennes Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity pastel colors and floral motifs
Rococo—General appearance
• Pastel colors, especially for women
Lacemakers
• Taught to girls as young as 5 years old - In damp basements with poor lighting - Severely affected eyesight and health
Watteau gowns
• Two types - A la Francaise • Open pleats - A la Anglaise • Pleats stitched down
Knitting
•Extant pieces from Egypt •Revived in Renaissance