history of costume

"Baskets" tied around the waist to make skirts stick out at hips are called:

Paniers

The wide garments worn by men at the court of Louis XIV that looked like skirts were called:

Petticoat breeches Sherryvallies Rhinegraves A and C only

Fashion illustrations printed

- 1580 earliest (Italian Renaissance)

The fashion for "slashing and puffing" was inspired by:

1477 Swiss victory over Burgundy

Evidence of influence of Italian trade with the East during the Renaissance is to be seen in:

A The popularity of turban-like headdresses for Italian women B The fashion in Italy for shoes that were not so long and pointed as in Northern Europe C The designs and motifs in some woven Italian textiles A and C only

An acceleration of fashion change

A greater availability of fabric during the Industrial Revolution led to:

Pomade

A perfumed ointment made of apples or wheat paste worn on the hair was:

Before lace

All trimming & edging was Cutwork • Limited to geometric designs - Lace is more free-form

When the song "Yankee Doodle Dandy" used the term "macaroni" in the late 1770s, it was making reference to:

American attempts to be fashionable

Which of the following are undergarments today, but were a visible part of outergarments in the 16th century?

Petticoats

2. The "Modern Man" look includes:

Plainer fabric Closer fitting coat and shorter waistcoat Breeches All of the above

bombast

Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with bombast

How might a man of modest means in the 18th century acquire his clothing?

Purchase used clothing Join a "breeches club" Save enough money over a period of several years All of the above

The _______ is also called a "Puritan" collar.

Rabat

Eschelles

Ribbons used to decorate the fronts of bodices were called:

Empire dresses

The Robe en Chemise, made of sheer cotton, is the forerunner of the

Polonaise, milkmaid

This dress is worn a la ______ and was part of _________ style.

Rococo— Influences on Costume

Trade with China and India - Cotton—lighter/pastel colors - Floral motifs • Industrial Revolution technology begins

In the second half of the 18th century, children ceased being dressed as miniature adults. This was partially a result of writings by the French philosopher, Jean-Jacques Rousseau who championed changes in children's clothing in the direction of greater freedom. T OR F

True

Louis XIV "The Sun King" is wearing a periwig, cravat, and red heels on his shoes. t or f

True

Smocks and Short gowns were working class clothing during the 18th century.

True

The widest and most extreme paniers were worn for Court Dress in England.

True

Types of Breeches Trunk hose

Trunk hose

Funnel boots

Wider as get to knee Sometimes foldover spurs

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated:

With the Swiss Army

Red high heels and soles

Worn by European royalty - Associated with Louis XIV • and his Court

the frock coat was

Worn instead of the coat in informal situations Inspired by the English Country Look Now an accepted option to coat All of the above

Boothose

Worn with funnel boots Folded over Showed lace

The "Flea Cravat" was worn to keep fleas off one's body. True False

false

chopines

high platform shoes

A major change in the fit of stockings came about when knitting machines were invented at the time of Queen Elizabeth I. True False

true

Late Baroque -1660-1715 Restoration

- Charles II from exile in France - Louis XIV (14th) The Sun King

• Periwigs

- Full, very curly wigs

Cravat

- Long strip of linen with lace edges

Which of the following were devices used in the 17th century in attempts to have a well-groomed appearance?

Artificial eyebrows made of mouse skins Balls of wax placed in the cheeks to give them a plump appearance Patches to cover skin blemishes All of the above

Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of:

Banyans Pastel colors Floral motifs All of the above

Gowns—Spanish Influence

Bodice becomes more rigid • Straight waistline develops V in front

Pumpkin Breeches and other full, rounded costume elements were stuffed with:

Bombast

______ were platform shoes worn by Venetian courtesans.

Chopines

Spain to Italy to England

Closed ruff Split skirt spanish farthingale

Tailors and Dressmakers

Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men.

When bias cut leg pieces were merged into one garment (tights) a pouch was added, called the:

Codpiece

France and Spain

Defeat of Spanish Armada Spanish fashion stands still farthingale continues • Fashion centered in Paris from Early Baroque to contemporary times

Early Baroque— Men

Doublet with peplum

Italian Renaissance 1400-1600

Embroidery - Whitework, blackwork, redwork, cutwork

Starch was used:

First in Ancient Egypt To maintain shape on collars and ruffs In Europe beginning in the Renaissance All of the above

Late Baroque—Women

Fontange Headdress/headpiece Mantua Petticoat

This Late Baroque woman is wearing a _______.

Fontange headress Mantua (dress) Saque A and B only

This Cavalier is wearing _____ boots.

Funnel

Early Baroque—Women

Gown with ¾ sleeves - Large turned-back lace cuffs - Wrist and forearm exposed

"A la Hedgehog" was a type of:

Hairstyle

If a young Englishman of the 18th century referred to his uncle as "square toes," he would mean that:

His uncle was old fashioned

The lower prices and increases in availability of cotton fabrics in the 1800s were a result of:

Improvements in the technology for spinning cotton yarns

Northern Renaissance-Silhouette

Northern Renaissance-Silhouette

Which of the following descriptions most accurately reflects the overall character of women's clothing during the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century?

Lavish use of opulent fabrics gave garments of relatively straight cut a splendid appearance and rich decorative effects were achieved by carefully manipulating layers of garments

Asian and Middle Eastern

Mantua-style gowns for women, men's dressing gown styles, and some of the prints and designs in textiles during the 18th century showed examples of ___________and _________________ influence on styles of costume.

Frock coat

More informal • Flat, turned-down collars • Leather or sturdy woven cloth • After 1770 - Accepted for formal wear

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because

Skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century.

Manteau/Mantua

Sleeved bodice with overskirt Late Baroque attached • Fabric pulled to back - Drawn back like curtains • Typical of Late Baroque

Rococo—Women

Softer floral motifs • Sheer cotton from India - becomes symbol of luxury

A black ribbon tied around the neck is called a

Solitaire

In the Baroque period, the ______ clung to old styles, like the Farthingale

Spanish

__________ style influenced Renaissance fashion.

Spanish

Medici Collar & Stomacher

Stomacher: • Triangular shaped bodice piece • Sewn onto front of gown

Which of the following may have derived from Middle Eastern styles?

The manteau The vest The fontange A and B only

Among the distinctive characteristics of the dress of Venetian women reported by foreign visitors in the 16th century were:

a preference for bleached, blonde hair high, platform soled shoes that affected their balance when walking hair arranged in the shape of two horns at the forehead all of the above

English Country Dress

lighter colors - Cotton

In this type of lace, threads are wrapped and bundled with the buttonhole stitch.

needle lace

rabat

square collar layover

Baldrick

sword belt

The style that developed in the last half of the 18th century and was influenced at least in part by archeological excavations of the ancient Roman towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum was called:

the Neoclassic style

Spanish farthingale

triangle shape

Intermarriage among members of royal families from different parts of Europe helped to spread fashions from one region to another. Italian influences in styles were brought to France by Catherine de Medici, an Italian who married a French king. True or false

tru

Clothing for men and women was generally made by male professional tailors until after the 1700s, at which time women "tailors" or professional dressmakers were able to make clothing for women but not for men. True or false

true

Fashion was especially important at the court of Louis XIV of France because the king wanted to keep his courtiers occupied with fashion and etiquette so that they would have neither the time nor the money to plot against him.

true

In order to allow the arm to move easily when jacket sleeves of the Italian Renaissance were cut very tightly, tailors left seams open and the white of the shirt underneath was visible. true false

true

Queen Elizabeth I is wearing a Medici collar, stomacher, and wheel farthingale. True or False

true

The fashion for puffed and slashed decoration of costume of men and women entered Italian Renaissance costume in the 16th century. true false

true

This man is wearing a doublet with a peascod belly and trunk hose. True or False

true

Tights/Hose • Bias cut pieces merged into one garment

wrinkly butt picture

Starch (for ruffs)

• Egyptians used it • Revival comes along with lace

Late Baroque—Men

• Elimination of doublet - Beginning of modern dress

Early Baroque

• English Civil War - Cavaliers (Royalists) - Roundheads (Puritans) • Split in ideology AND fashion

Development of Lace

• Free-form luxury fabric Indication of wealth • English and French smuggle it - From Belgium

Banyan

• Influence from India - Painted/printed textiles - Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity of Banyans, pastel colors, and floral motifs

France

• Madame de Pompadour* - Becomes Louis XVs mistress in 1754 - Fashion influencer

Embroidery and Metallic threads

• New cotton textiles from India - Indiennes Trade with China and India resulted in the popularity pastel colors and floral motifs

Rococo—General appearance

• Pastel colors, especially for women

Lacemakers

• Taught to girls as young as 5 years old - In damp basements with poor lighting - Severely affected eyesight and health

Watteau gowns

• Two types - A la Francaise • Open pleats - A la Anglaise • Pleats stitched down

Knitting

•Extant pieces from Egypt •Revived in Renaissance