History of Costume: 19th Century- 1789-1820 (Directoire/Empire/Regency Period)

Pelisse

A 19th-century garment similar to a modern coat; generally full-length, it followed the typical Empire silhouette

High stomacher dress

A dress from the early 19th century with a complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only, with side front seams left open to several inches below the waists, and a band or string was located at the front of the waist of the skirt. The bodice often had a pair of under flaps that pinned across the chest, supporting the bust; the outer bodice closed in front by being wrapped across the bosom like a shawl, laced up the front over a short undershirt, or buttoned down the front.

Holoku

A loose-fitting, full-length dress with a high neck and long sleeves that fell from a yoke; became traditional part of Hawaiian dress after missionaries in the early 19th century adapted their own dress style for the overweight Queen Dowager Kalakua

Habit Shirt

A shirt worn by women during the Directoire Period as a fill-in under low necklines

Spencer

A short jacket worn by both men and women in the 19th century that ended at the waistline, made with sleeves or sleeveless; the color usually contrasted with the rest of the costume

The dress of ________ was an obvious influence on fashions and the arts during the rule of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Classical Antiquity

Personified by England's George "Beau" Brummel, this term has come to signify a fashionable man who dresses well, circulates in the best society, and is always ready with a witty comment.

Dandy

Men: 1790 to c. 1807 Shirts, under waist-length waistcoats. Over these, tailcoats, worn with knee breeches or trousers.

Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820

Men: c. 1807-1820 Men more likely to wear trousers than knee breeches. Otherwise, little change.

Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820

Women: 1790-1800 Elevated waistline, soft gathered skirt with narrower silhouette. Sleeves tend to be short; necklines low.

Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820

Women: 1816 Sleeve variations and necklines appear and gradual widening of skirt hem and rising of waistlines as the period progresses.

Directoire Period and the Empire Period 1790-1820

moccasins

Footwear of the American native people made with a firm sole and soft leather uppers; originally made from deer or moose skin; adopted and adapted by settlers, it has became a classic shoe style with many variations in its design

This event helped alter forever menswear as simple and somber dark suits made up of jackets, vests, and trousers replaced elaborate brocade and embroidered satin suits, waistcoats, and knee breeches.

French Revolution

The Director Period includes what significant events?

French Revolution and the establishment of the Empire period

Pantaloons

Garment cut from waist to ankle in one piece; at various times it was cut to fit either close to the leg or fuller; by the 19th century the terms pantaloons and trousers were sometimes used interchangeably

Toque

High, brimless hat especially popular in the early 19th century

Trousers

In modern usage, a bifurcated (two-legged) garment worn by men or women; term sometimes used interchangeably with pantaloons. In the early 19th century, these were usually close-fitting pants for men with an ankle strap or slit that laced to fit the ankle.

Gypsy hat

In the Directoire and Empire Periods, a woman's hat with a low crown and a moderately wide brim, worn with ribbon tied over the outside of the brim and under the chin

Sans Culottes

Literally meaning "without breeches," was a nickname for revolutionaries who wore trousers (associated with the common people) instead of breeches (associated with the aristocrats) during the French Revolution

Pantalettes

Long, straight, white drawers trimmed with rows of lace or tucks at the hem that became fashionable for a short time around 1809; young girls, however, wore pantalettes under dresses from the Romantic Period through to the end of the Crinoline Period

Top Hat

Men's tall hat made of shiny silk or beaver cloth with a narrow brim; first developed toward the end of the 18th century as part of men's riding costume; was the predominant hat style during the Directoire Period, and remained so for formal occasions throughout the rest of the 19th century

muslin fever

Name applied to pneumonia and other respiratory infections that were blamed on the fashion for wearing lightweight muslin dresses in the Empire Period

à la victime

Short women's hairstyle of the Empire Period similar to the haircut given to women who were to be guillotined

indispensables

Small handbags, often with a drawstring at the top, popular in the Empire Period (also called reticules)

Incroyables

The men who affected the most extreme of the Directoire styles, and wore waistcoats that fit loose at the shoulders, excessively tight breeches, and cravats or neckties and collars that covered much of their chins

Marveilleuses

Women who affected the most extreme of the Directoire Period styles, with long flowing trains, the sheerest of fabrics, necklines cut in some extreme cases to the waistline, and huge, exaggerated jockey-like caps

à la Titus

Women's short hairstyle of the Empire Period; similar to that on busts of the Ancient Roman emperor Titus

This technological innovation had an enormous impact on cottonproduction in the American South.

cotton gin

The bonnet rouge and the costume of the sans culottes were the most obvious visual symbols of...

the French Revolution

Fashionable men gave up knee breeches for long, tight-fitting, ankle-length trousers called pantaloons, which they chose to avoid being mistaken for _______.

the nobility