OCE1001 Chapter 10

What type of feature is a barrier island?

depositional

Where are barrier islands common?

east coast of the United States Gulf coast of the United States

The extent of a continent's coastal waters depends on the size and relief of its continental ________.

shelf

Part E

1. A: Area of sand deposition 2. D: Breakwater 3. E: Area threatened by erosion after construction of the breakwater 4. C: Arrow that points in the OPPOSITE direction of longshore drift 5. B: Arrow that points in the direction of longshore drift 6. F: Dredge

Part C

1. C: Barrier island 2. F: Delta 3. A: Tombolo 4. B: Spit 5. D: Bay barrier 6. E: Lagoon

Part D

1. C: Peat bed 2. A: Salt marsh 3. E: Ocean beach 4. F: Lagoon 5. B: Dune 6. D: Barrier flat

Part B: The direction of longshore drift processes

?

How does the tide cycle affect erosion along a sea coast?

The tide cycle causes erosion to occur at different elevations along a sea coast.

Part B - Stabilizing the shore

Top to Bottom: Beach drift direction Goins Incoming wave direction Longshore current direction.

Winter beaches:

are narrower than summer beaches due to high-energy waves during the winter.

Narrow currents flowing across the surf zone toward the open ocean are called:

rip currents.

Estuarine circulation associated with a deep, high river volume system where no horizontal salinity gradient exists at the surface is called a:

salt wedge estuary.

Normally, beaches have the greatest amount of sand on the berm near the end of __________.

summer

An estuary produced by faulting or folding of rocks that creates a dropped-down section into which a river flows is called a:

tectonic estuary.

Isostatic movement of a coastline might occur due to:

the removal of a large glacier that rested in that area.

When seafloor spreading rates increase:

there is a rise in sea level.

Where does sand accumulate during heavy wave activity?

Offshore sand bars

Part B

1. G: Blowhole 2. F: Uplifted marine terrace 3. D: Headland 4. B: Sea arch 5. C: Wave-cut bench 6. H: Sea cave 7. E: Sea stack 8. A: Coves

Part A

1. H: Longshore bar 2. D: Wave-cut cliff 3. G: Beach 4. B: Offshore 5. F: Coast 6. I: Beach face 7. E: Nearshore 8. C: Shore 9. A: Berm

Part C - Purpose of stabilizing structures

1. The pier-like structures are installed perpendicular to the shore. 2. The purpose of the pier-like structures is to maintain or widen the beach and prevent erosion. 3. The pier-like structures trap sand that is moving parallel to the shore. 4. Beaches downcurrent from a groin tend to erode because of beach drift. 5. The photo of the New Jersey shore is an example of a groin field.

Part A: Longshore drift processes and landforms.

1. Waves hitting at an angle and then bending around features of the coast is known as wave refraction. 2. Landforms associated with longshore drift form where the sediment is plentiful enough to create them. 3. When there is longshore drift, the overall direction of sand transport is parallel to the coast.. 4. In order to produce longshore drift, the direction of waves must not be perpendicular to the coast. 5. A baymouth bar forms when longshore drift creates a ridge of sand separating a waterway from the ocean. 6. The direction that sediment is traveling along a coast is called the downstream direction.

About what percent of the world fishery is obtained within 320 kilometers (200 miles) of shore?

95%

Which of the following best describes the trend in the United States wetlands during this century?

A decrease in coastal wetlands and an increase in freshwater wetlands

Part A - Barrier islands

A home on a barrier island is likely to take the full brunt of storm waves, making it a risky proposition. Your friend should think twice before purchasing. Barrier islands tend to experience significant erosion and deposition of sand. Mitigating these effects is extremely difficult and costly. Your friend would be wise to reconsider.

Which feature of barrier islands provides evidence for a rise in sea level?

A peat outcrop

How does a sea stack form?

A stack forms when a sea arch collapses, leaving a vertical column of rock offshore.

Which of the following estuaries forms when sea level rises and floods an existing river valley?

Coastal Plain Estuary

Of the following statements about the physical characteristics of coastal oceans, which is/are true?

All Besides "Most coastal waters...."

Of the following characteristics or features, which is/are associated with erosional shores?

All besides "A large volume"

Of the following characteristics or features, which is/are associated with depositional shores?

All besides "Active tectonic uplift"

Of the following statements about global sea level, which is/are true?

All besides "When the rate of the sea floor....."

Of the following statements about coastal regions and landforms, which is/are true?

All but "Nearshore is exposed."

Sediment is supplied to the coastal zone by:

All of the above are sources of sediment in the coastal zone.

This wetland coastal area occurs

All of the above conditions control the distribution of this type of coastal wetland.

Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?

All of these are used to try to prevent or retard shoreline erosion.

How is an arch formed along a sea coast?

An arch forms when a sea cave breaks through a headland or where two sea caves coalesce as they erode back due to wave action.

Which of the following estuaries forms when wave action creates a barrier island that separates the estuary from the ocean?

Bar-Built Estuary

Which of the following can help prevent beach starvation?

Beach replenishment

Which of the following features is characteristic of a submerging shoreline?

Drowned beach

What is the most obvious difference between summertime and wintertime beaches?

During summertime, there is much more sand on the beach.

Which of the following statements regarding a highly stratified estuary is/are true?

Highly stratified estuaries are characterized by estuarine circulation, in which river water flows toward the ocean and ocean water flows toward the head of the estuary. Highly stratified estuaries are characterized by a strong halocline. Highly stratified estuaries are common along glaciated or previously glaciated coastlines.

If the current trend in the loss of coastal wetlands does not change, what consequence(s) would you predict?

Increased loss of marine fisheries

Why does the beach in the video look the way that it does during wintertime?

Large waves move sand offshore onto longshore sand bars and create a rocky beach.

Which of the following occurs during light wave activity?

Much of the swash soaks into the beach

Which of the following statements regarding a slightly stratified estuary is/are true?

Salinity increases from the head to the mouth in a stratified estuary. Salinity lines curve due to the Coriolis effect in a stratified estuary. Stratified estuaries have a mixed zone.

Which of the following statements regarding a vertically mixed estuary is/are true?

Salinity lines curve due to the Coriolis effect in a vertically mixed estuary. Salinity is uniform from the top of the water column to the bottom in a vertically mixed estuary. River water mixes evenly with ocean water at all depths in a vertically mixed estuary.

Which of the following statements regarding a salt wedge estuary is/are true?

Salt wedge estuaries are characterized by estuarine circulation, in which river water flows toward the ocean and ocean water flows toward the head of the estuary. Salt wedge estuaries are characterized by a strong halocline. Salt wedge estuaries are common at the mouths of deep, high-volume rivers.

What would you expect to happen to sea level along the Antarctic coastline if the ice cap covering the continent melted?

Sea level would decrease due to isostatic adjustment.

Which of the following is an example of hard stabilization?

Seawalls

Why does the beach shown in the video look the way that it does during summertime?

Small waves move sand up the beach face and create a wide, sandy beach.

What happens to a barrier island as sea level rises?

Structures on the island are at risk due to increased erosion. Peat deposits are exposed on the ocean beach side of the barrier island.

One major problem associated with the Chesapeake Bay due to increased human pressure is:

an increase in nutrients resulting in more frequent kills of bottom-dwelling or benthic animals.

Which of the following estuaries forms when the sea floods a downdropped area caused by faulting?

Tectonic Estuary

Most marginal seas result from which of the following?

Tectonic events

Which of the following best describes littoral drift?

The movement of sediment in a zigzag fashion caused by the longshore current.

How is a cave created in a cliff face along a sea coast?

Wave action erodes areas of weakness in rock in a sea cliff.

The speed of longshore currents decreases as which of the following increases?

Wave period

What is an estuary?

a body of water where freshwater and saltwater mix

Reasons for the loss of coastal wetlands include:

all of the above.

The part of the shore that is above the high tide shoreline and is covered with water only during storms is known as the ________.

backshore

The section of the coast that extends from normal high tide level to the highest elevation on land that is affected by storm waves is called the:

backshore.

Lagoons that form behind barrier islands are examples of:

bar-built estuaries.

In which area of a barrier island would you expect to find a woodland or forest?

barrier flat

The area of the barrier island complex that would contain thickets and woodlands would be the:

barrier flat.

The boundary between the shore and the coast is known as the ________.

coastline

Large deposits of sediment at the mouths of rivers are called:

deltas.

The section of the coast that is exposed at low tide and submerged at high tide is called the:

foreshore.

Coastal wetlands are characterized by:

high levels of organic matter in the tidal zone and anoxic muds.

In which area(s) of a barrier island is peat formed?

high salt marsh low salt marsh

The particle size on a beach:

is related to whatever material is locally available.