TAM 4072 FINAL

Sans culottes

"Without knee breeches"

Dressing gown About 1832

1840s: Men had Dressing Gowns

Skeleton suit

7 or 8 year old boys wore long straight trousers, a white shirt with a wide collar that finished in a ruffed edge, and, over the shirt, a jacket that was either a shorter, simplified version of those of adults or cut to the waist and double breasted

Anglomania

A French fad for things English

High stomacher dress/Apron

A complex construction in which the bodice was sewn to the skirt at the back only. Side front seams were left open to several inches below the waist and a band or string was located at the front of the waist of the skirt

Zeitgeist

A complex mixture of social, psychological, and aesthetic factors determine the specific expression of an era. Also called the spirit of the times

Dandy

A fashionable man who dressed well, circulated in the best society, and who was always ready with a witty comment

Smock frock

A garment worn by Spanish shepherds that was a loosely fitted, washable linen outer garment

Sacque/ Robe Battante/Robe Volante/Innocente

A gown that was unbelted, loose from the shoulder to floor. Made with pleats at the back and at the shoulder in front; Were worn over a dome-shaped hoop and might either have a closed front or be worn open over a corset and petticoat

Short gown

A hip length garment, which was like a jacket or an over blouse

Chapeau bras

A large flat hat that was carried under the arm, rather than being worn

Spencer

A short jacket (worn by both men and women) that ended at the waistline, which in the case of womens styles was just under the bosom. Made with sleeves or sleeveless, the color usually contrasted with the rest of the costume

Carmagnole

A short woolen or cloth jacket of a dark color. It was hip length with fullness at the back, cut rather like a smock

Fall

A square, central flap that buttoned the waistline

Steinkirk

A style of the cravat in which the tie pulled through the buttonhole and twisted loosely

Petticoat (undergarment)

A visible under shirt, often worn for evening

Derby hat (Romantic Period)

American term for a hat with a stiff, round, bowl-shaped crown and a narrow brim

Polonaise

An overdress and petticoat in which the overskirt was puffed and looped by means of tapes and rings sewn into the skirt

Toupee

Brushing the hair straight back from the forehead and into a slightly elevated roll

Robe a Anglaise

Close fit in the front and at the back

Tail coat

Coat fronts generally ended at the waist, either curving gradually back from the waist into two tails that ended slightly above the knee, or with a cut in a rounded or square space at eh front where no skirt with attached

Banyan

Comfortable loosely fitted garments variously known as nightgowns, morning gowns, dressing gowns, or Indian gowns

Boot cuffs

Cuffs that reached to the elbow

Mantua-style gown

Cut in one piece from shoulder to hem that was fitted to the body front and back

Frock coat

Cut looser and shorter than dress coats and they had flat, turned-down collars

Round gowns

Daytime or evening dresses that did not open at the front to show a petticoat

Redingote

English men's riding coats

Hoops

English term which means "basket"

Under petticoat

Fairly straight garments made of cambric (plain-weave, fine linen), dimity, flannel, or calico; quilted in winter for warmth

Fashion babies

Fashion dolls made in Paris

Caracao

Fitted jacket

Pantaloons

Fitting the leg more closely than trousers, which were made in close-fitting, moderately full or very full styles

Grecian bend

Forward bend in the appearance of the body caused by padded rolls placed at the back of the waistline at the end of the period

La Foire Chinoise

François Boucher (design)tapestry woven fromm a Boucher drawingdesigned 1743Francehigh demand for anything "exotic" *this is a type of chinoiseries (chinese motifs) very exotic*

Panniers

French term which means basket

Robe a la francaise

Full, pleated cut at the back and a fitted front

Dress

General term that includes not only garments, but also aspects of personal appearance that can be changed, such as grooming

Round gown

Gowns closed all the way down the front

Hedgehog hairstyle

Hair curled, full and wide around the face and long locks hanging at the back

Shepherdess hat

Hat that tied under or over the brim

Casaquin

Jacket that was fitted through the bodice and flaring out below the waist almost to the knee. Sleeves were tight, with a small, turned-back cuff

Bergere

Large flat straw hats with low crowns and wide brims

Pantalettes

Long, straight, white drawers trimmed with rows of lace or tucks at the hem that became fashionable for a short time around 1809

Gypsy hat

Low crown and a moderately wide brim, were worn with ribbon tied over the outside of the brim and under the chin

Macaroni

Men who adopted French and Italian inspired fashions during thee last half of the century

Foretop

Men's elevated roll atop the head

Clog/Pattens

Overshoes that protect against wet and muddy surfaces, were made of matching or other fabrics and had sturdy leather soles, built-up arches, and latches that tied across the instep to hold the clog in place

False rumps

Pad tied at the back of the waist that supported the fullness. Filled with cork or other light cushioning materials

Trousers

Pants made in close fitting, moderately full, or very full styles

Tailored dress

Pieces are cut and sewn together. They fit the body more closely and provide greater warmth than do draped garments.

Eschelles

Ribbons that covered the stomacher

Gaiters/Spattdashers/Spats

Separate protective covering that extended from the top of the shoe to some point below the knee, were worn to protect the legs

Calash, caleche

Series of semi-hoops sewn into the hood at intervals. These hoops supported the hood without crushing the hair, and folded flat when not in use

Habit shirt

Short undershirt

A la Titus (hairstyle)/ A La Victime

Short, curly hairstyle

Pet-en-lair

Short, hip-length version worn with a separate, gathered skirt and a mantua-style gown

Pelisse

Similar to a modern coat; It was generally full length and followed the typical empire silhouette. For winter, especially when made of silk or cotton, pelisses had warm linings

Engageantes

Sleeves with finishing in one or more ruffles

Indispensable/Reticules

Small handbags often with a drawstring at the top

Capote

Stiff brim/soft crowned hat

Fashion

Synonymous with style after the latter part of the Medieval Period but implies styles of relatively short duration

Draped dress

The arrangement around the body of pieces of fabric that are folded, pleated, pinned, and/or belted in different ways. Draped clothing usually fits the body loosely

Folk costume

The dress of the European peasant class

Western dress

The dress prevalent in Western Europe and Euro-America since the Middle Ages

Cossacks

The extremely full trousers were based on the dress of Russian soldiers

Merveilleuse

The marvelous ones; Women who affected the most extreme of the Directoire styles, with long flowing trains, the sheerest of fabrics, necklines cut in some extreme cases to the waistline, and huge exaggerated jockeylike caps

Incroyable

The men known as incredible wore waistcoats of loose fit at the shoulders, excessively tight breeches, and cravats or neckties and collars that covered so much of their chins that one wonders if they could be heard or understood when they spoke

Style

The predominant form of dress of any given period or culture

Bonnet rouge

The red cap of liberty

Tete de mouton (hairstyle)

Tight curls which translated into "sheep's head"

Costume

Used as a synonym for dress by those who work in the museum field and by many scholars who study historic dress

Clothes/clothing

Wearing apparel

Chemise a la reine

White muslin gown that resembled the chemise undergarment of the period, but unlike the chemise, had a waistline and a soft, fully gathered skirt

Catogan/Club Wig

Wigs which were doubled up on themselves and tied at the middle to form a loop of hair

Queue

Wigs with a lock or pigtail at the back

Greatcoat

Women's coat worn out of doors for warmth

Drawers

Womens underclothing, usually open through the crotch area

drawn bonnet (Romantic Period)

a bonnet from the early 19th century made from concentric circles of metal, whalebone, or cane and covered in silk

chesterfield

a coat with a single or double breasted closing, although the double breasted closing has since been more closely associated with this term

burnous (Romantic Period)

a large mantle of about three-quarter length with a hood, the name and style deriving from a similar garment worn by Arabs who lived in the Middle Eastern deserts

jeanette

a narrow tress of hair or piece of velvet ribbon was used to suspend a cross or heart of pearls around the neck

galoshes

a waterproof overshoe

canezou

appears as a small, sleeveless spencer worn over the bodice, and in others as a garment synonymous with the pelerine

Eton Suit (Children's Romantic Period)

children's clothing consisted of a short, single-breasted jacket, ending at the waist. The front was cut square, the lapels wide with a turned down collar. The suit was completed with a necktie, vest or waistcoat and trousers

imbecile/idiot sleeve (Romantic Period)

extremely full from shoulders to wrist, where they gathered into a fitted cuff. The name derived from the fact that its construction was similar to that of sleeves used on garments for confining mad persons-a sort of "strait jacket" of the period.

gigot/leg of mutton sleeve (Romantic)

full at the shoulder, gradually decreasing in size to the wrist where they ended in a fitted cuff

Demi-gigot sleeve (Romantic Period)

full from shoulder to elbow, then fitted from elbow to wrist, often an extension of the wrist, popular in the early 19th century

en coeur

heart shaped neckline

curricle coat

in the 1840s, a box coat was called this

box coat

large, loose greatcoats with one or more capes at the shoulder

Day Dress, (Romantic Period)

lower waistlines, wide sleeves and full skirts fastened either front or back. They were not trained. Neckline vary with being V-shaped. Others were high , ending at the throat and finishing with a small collar or ruff

gilet corsage (Romantic Period)

made in imitation of a man's waistcoat. This women's garment is French term for gilet means waistcoat and corsage means "bodice."

bishop sleeve

made with a row of vertical pleats at the shoulder that released into a soft, full sleeve gathered to a fitted cuff at the wrist

chatelaine

ornamental chains worn at the waist from which were suspended useful items such as scissors, thimbles, button hooks, and penkinves

chemisette

raised the necklines of daytime dresses

bavloet

ruffle at the back of the neck to keep the sun off the neck

bustle

small down or cotton filled pads that tied on around the waist at the back, held out skirts in back

fichu pelerine

two wide panels or lappets extending down the front of the dress and passed under the blet

hussar front or beak (Romantic Period)

waistcoats lengthened and developed a point at the front

bertha (Romantic Period 1836-1850)

wide, deep collars following the neckline