Textiles Ch.3 Vocab

Creep

A delayed or gradual recovery from elongation. Similar to how jeans break in a couple days after each wash.

Drape

A fabric characteristic describing the way a fabric falls over a 3D form like a body or table. Fine fibers produce a softer drape than coarse fibers. This is caused by fiber size and stiffness and results in the appearance of a textile.

Polymer

A long chain of molecules.

Denier per filament (dpf)

A way of identifying fiber size; it is often used when describing or specifying yarns. DPF is calculated by dividing the yarn size by the number of filaments, I.E. 40 denier yarn/20 filaments = 2 denier per filament.

Tex

Also used to describe the fineness of manufactured yarn. It is the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of fiber or yarn

Stretching

Also, drawing. This causes the chains to slide and become more parallel to each other and to the longitudinal axis of the fiber. It also reduces fiber diameter and compacts the molecules.

Natural fiber

Are in fiber form as they grow or development and come from animal, plant, or mineral sources.

Heat sensitivity

Describes a fiber's reaction to heat. Since some fibers soften and melt and others are heat resistant, these properties identify safe pressing temperatures and restrict some end uses.

Flammability

Describes how a fabric reacts to ignition sources and how it burns. Fabrics that are highly flammable are banned from interstate commerce in the US because of the safety risk they pose.

Sustainability

Describes practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution and do not exploit people or natural resources in meeting the lifestyle needs of the present without compromising the future.

Denier

Describes the fineness of manufactured fiber. The weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn. Small numbers describe fine fibers; large numbers describe coarse fibers.

Texture

Describes the nature of a textile's surface. It is identified by both visual and tactile senses. Natural fibers tend to give a fabric more texture than manufactured fibers because of the variations inherent in the structure of natural fibers. Yarns, finishes, and fabric structure greatly impact texture, which contributes to the luster, appearance, and comfort of a textile.

Chemical reactivity

Determines the appropriateness of care procedures and end uses for fibers as well as selection of appropriate dyes and finishes for fabrics and products.

Hydrophilic

Fibers that absorb moisture readily.

Hygroscopic

Fibers that absorb moisture without feeling wet.

Hydrophobic

Fibers with little or no absorbency. Tend to have a strong attraction to oil.

Generic group

Group of fibers with similar chemical compositions that differ from those in another group.

Cradle-to-cradle

Holistically examines the overall impact of the production, use, care, disposal, and recycle potential of products, from economic, industrial, and social perspectives.

Hydrogen bonds

Intermolecular forces that hold molecular chains close together. The closer the chains are to each other, the stronger the bonds. This is the attraction of positive hydrogen atoms of one chain to the negative oxygen or nitrogen atoms of an adjacent chain. Helps make crystalline polymers stronger than amorphous polymers.

Filaments

Long, continuous fiber stands of indefinite length, measure in miles or kilometers

Manufactured fiber

Made into fiber form from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities. They are made from cellulosic, protein, or mineral sources or produced from synthetic polymers.

Oleophilic

Meaning a strong affinity or attraction to oil. Fibers tend to bond quickly and tightly with oil, making cleaning and staining more of a problem.

Specific gravity

Or density, is a measure of fiber weight per unit volume. Low-density fibers can be made into thick fabrics that are more comfortable than high-density fibers that result in heavy fabrics.

Elastic recovery

Or elasticity, is the ability of a textile to return to its original dimension or shape after elongation. It is measured as the percentage of return to original length. Natural fibers have less elastic recovery than synthetics.

Compression resiliency

Or loft, is the ability to spring back to the original thickness after being compressed. Loft is important of pile fabrics, most knits, and carpets and rugs.

Tenacity

Or tensile strength, is the ability of a textile to withstand a pulling force. This is measured by securing both ends of the fiber in clamps and measuring the force needed to break or rupture the fiber.

Filament tow

Produced as a loose rope of several thousand fibers, is crimped or textured, and cut to staple length.

Elongation

Refers to the degree to which a fiber may be stretched without breaking. It is measured as percent elongation at break by measuring the change in length and comparing that to the original length. Elongation should be considered in relation to elasticity. Highly oriented and highly crystalline fibers do not elongate much when a force is applied and when released, return quickly to their original length. Aramid, used in ballistic vests, has very low elongation.

Fiber crimp

Refers to the eaves, bends tests, coils, or curls along the length of the fiber. It increases cohesiveness, resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, bulk, and warmth. The more crimp, the warmer the fabric, because crimp helps trap air within the fabric and next to the skin.

Environmental concerns

Refers to the way the production, use, care, and disposal of a fiber or textile product impacts the environment.

Compressibility

Resistance to crushing. Fibers, like cotton, that are easily compressible tend to wrinkle easily but can produce heavy and compact fabrics, like denim. Fibers, like wool, do not compress easily, do not wrinkle easily, and produce bulky fabrics.

Luster

Results fro the way light is reflected by a surface; this is effected by yarn, fabric structure, and finish. Shiny or brings fabrics reflect a great amount of light and are used in selecting fashion instances or for safety reasons. Lustrous fabrics reflect a fair amount of light and are used in formal apparel and interiors. Matte, or dull fabrics reflect little light and are used most frequently for less formal looks in apparel and interiors. Silk fabrics are usually lustrous. Cotton and wool fabrics are usually matte. The luster of manufactured fibers can be varied during manufacturing. High-luster fibers are referred to as bright, while low-luster fibers are dull. Medium-luster fibers are semi bring or semi dull.

Staple fiber

Short fibers measured in inches or centimeters. They range in length from less then 2 to 46 cm. Except for silk, all of the natural fibers are available only in staple form, which are then used to produce spun yarn fabrics.

Shrinkage resistance

The ability of a fabric to retain its original dimensions throughout care. Related to the fabric's reaction to moisture or heat. Most textiles shrink significantly after the first wash, and some continue to shrink for subsequent washes, which is called residual shrinking.

Dimensional stability

The ability of a fabric to retain its original size and shape through use and care. It includes the properties of shrinkage resistance and elastic recovery. Calculated based on the difference between the original measurements and the after-cleaning measurements.

Cover

The ability of a fiber to conceal or protect. Fibers that are opaque, like cotton, can be used to produce relatively lightweight fabrics like batiste such that they provide cover, yet are not too heavy in weight. This is due to the crimp, curl, or twist of the fiber and contributes to fabric opacity.

Absorbency

The ability of a fiber to take up moisture from the body or from the environment.

Wicking

The ability of a fiber to transfer moisture along its surface; associated with nonabsorbent fibers. Moisture is transported along the surface rather than being absorbed into the fiber. Used mostly for athletic wear with polyester and olefin.

Translucence

The ability of a textile to allow light to pass through it. Fibers that are transparent or translucent like nylon or polyester must be altered during production with additives or by changing their cross section to provide cover. This is due to the physical and chemical structure of the fiber and contributes to the appearance and cover of the fabric.

Thermal retention

The ability of a textile to hold heat, due to fiber, yarn, fabric structure, and layering of fabrics.

Resiliency

The ability of a textile to return to its original shape after bending, twisting, or crushing. Crunch a fabric in your hand and watch how it responds.

Abrasion resistance

The ability of a textile to withstand the rubbing it gets during use. This is measured by rubbing a textile against a surface and measuring the change in strength and appearance. This is due to tough outer layers, scales, or skin and contributes to durability.

Cohesiveness

The ability of fibers to cling together during spinning. This is a factor in durability; fibers with good cohesiveness tend to resist revealing or slipping during use. Cotton and wool have good cohesiveness while silk and polyester do not. This is due to crimp or twist and surface contour.

Flexibility

The ability to bend repeatedly without breaking. This is due to a flexible molecular chain and contributes to stiffness, drape, and comfort.

Allergenic potential

The ability to cause physical reactions such as skin redness resulting from exposure to the fiber. While many individuals claim an allergy to wool, most are just sensitive to the prickle or irritation caused by coarser wool fibers. Chemicals used in finishing and dyeing can also cause allergic reactions for some people.

Strength

The ability to resist stress and is expressed as tensile strength (pounds per square inch) or as tenacity (grams per denier). Breaking tenacity is the number of grams of force to break a fiber. This is due to molecular structure--orientation, crystallinity, and degree of polymerization-- and contributes to Durability, tear strength, sagging, pilling, and making the sheerest fabrics possible with strong, fine fibers.

Electrical conductivity

The ability to transfer electrical charges; associated with fibers with good absorbency. Absorbent fibers do not build up static charge readily and do not attract lint or create problems with static cling.

Sunlight resistance

The ability to withstand segregation from natural or artificial light. Exposure to light may damage fibers. The energy in light, especially in the ultraviolet region of the spectrum, causes irreversible damage to the chemical structure of the fiber. The results in a slight yellowing of the fabric, weakening of the fabric, or complete disintegration.

Fabric crimp

The bends caused by distortion of yarns due to weaving and knitting a fabric.

Pilling

The formation of balls of fiber on the fabric surface. This most often occurs when fibers of differing abrasion resistance (such as cotton and polyester) are combined into one fabric. With abrasion, short pieces of the less-resistant cotton break off and become entangled with the more abrasion-resistant polyester, forming little balls of fiber on the surface. This is not only unattractive but uncomfortable as well.

Degree of polymerization

The number of molecules connected in a polymer chain. Long chains indicate a high degree of polymerization and a high degree of fiber strength.

Heat conductivity

The opposite of heat retention. This is the ability to transfer heat through a fabric. Cotton is popular in the summer because it helps the body release heat quickly.

Aging resistance

The resistance to deleterious changes over time. Spandex and other elastic fibers have poor aging characteristics.

Moth resistance

The resistance to insect damage, including moths, beetles, crickets, roaches, and spiders.

Mildew resistance

The resistance to the growth of mold, mildew, or fungus. Cotton and other plant fibers will mold if stored in a hot and humid place. The microorganisms will permanently damage textiles.

Hand

The way a textile feels to the skin. Often described by using adjectives such as warm, cool, bulky or thin, and slick or soft. May be evaluated by feeling a fabric between the fingers and thumb and is mostly relevant for designers and consumers. This is caused by cross-sectional shape, surface properties, crimp, diameter, and length.

van der Waals forces

These hold molecular chains close to one another. They are weak bonds between atoms that are physically close together. This occurs in crystalline areas and help make crystalline polymers stronger than amorphous polymers.

Care

Treatments that is required to maintain the new look of a textile product during use, cleaning, or storage.

Orientation

When a molecular chain is oriented, it is said to have a high degree of orientation. To be oriented, a molecular chain must be parallel to each other and to the fiber's lengthwise axis.

Dyeability

When fibers are receptive to coloration by dyes. Fibers that absorb water quickly dye well and have good dye affinity.

Polymerization

When small molecules--monomers-- are joined together to form a long chain, or polymer.

Moisture regain

When the moisture in a material is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the moisture-free material.

Amorphous

When the molecular chains are arranged in a random or disorganized way within the fiber. Mostly natural fibers. These fibers are relatively weak and easily elongated, have poor elasticity and good moisture absorbency, dye ability, and flexibility.

Crystalline

When the molecular chains are organized parallel to each other. These mostly include synthetic fibers, are mostly nonabsorbent, and difficult to dye.