BOF fashion terms

Bias cut

'cut on the grain'. Rather than following the straight line of the weave, the bias cut places the pattern at a 45° angle on the woven fabric. At this angle, the 'warp' and 'weft' threads give the fabric more of an elastic 'stretch.' This is popular for accentuating body-lines and creating more fluid curves or soft drapes. It was championed in the 1920s by Madeleine Vionnet and later became one of John Galliano's signature style.

minaudiere

A small ornamental case for a woman's cosmetics, jewelry, or personal items that is often carried as a handbag

pin tucks

Evenly spaced parallel folds, 1/8 inch or less, stitched at a designated length from the pattern edge or area to be fitted.

Basque

French waistline. They are a type of bodice that either extends below the waistline or over the skirt. They have a V-shape and close contoured fit, in the style of a corset. Adopted from the traditional country dress of the same name, these waistlines were popularised in the Victorian era. Today they share their name with a piece of similarly sculpted lingerie.

clogs

Heavy, usually wooden-soled, shoes.

Overlay

Often a lace or sheer fabric that has been placed over a different fabric underneath. It is also the shoemaking term for the pieces of material (usually leather) that are stitched onto the footwear to form decorative patterns.

Armscye (Arms eye)

Scottish term in origin. It refers to the armhole opening in a garment and is also the tailoring term for the pattern shape used when constructing the armhole. If you were to label the anatomy of a dress, the armscye would be at the opening of the bodice, where the sleeve is attached.

Hobble skirt

They first became popular in the early 1910s, when the skirt was often ankle length, tapering even narrower below the knees and causing its wearer to hobble. This knee-long corset might have been restrictive, but it had its moment; not only did it avoid ladies' skirts from blowing up in an unbecoming fashion, it was a popular signature style of the great Parisian designer Paul Poiret.

cone heel

Triangular in shape, the heel starts wide at the sole and tapers narrower, sometimes to a point. They are wider, and perhaps more manageable, than a stiletto heel.

portiere

a curtain that hangs over a door or covers a door-less entrance to a room and comes from the French word porte, meaning door. From Gone with the Wind, where Scarlett O'Hara makes a dress from green velvet window curtains, to Mr. Dior and the drape of fabric at the top of a runway, it is certainly a curtain with possibilities.

sweetheart neckline

a curved bottom edge, usually double scalloped, that resembled the top half of a heart. this neckline actually accentuate the bosom, with their concave bottom edge drawing the eye downwards.

puffed sleeves

a decadent 'puff' of fabric. Think of Renaissance Kings and Queens with their big sleeves, or Lacroix's skirts from the 1980s. The shape for a sleeve is gathered at the top and bottom, but full in between, allowing it to puff up and create fullness.

ruffle

a decorative frill of lace or gathered ornamentation of fabric, often used to trim or embellish the wrist or neck. A strip of fabric, when gathered or pleated, will create a frill that adds to a garment's straight edge. Think of the lace ruffles worn by Henry VIII or the Victorians. Today, you'll find them in high fashion and haute couture.

Lace

a fine, openwork fabric, typically created from cotton, line, silk or metallic threads to make net mesh patterned work. Lace dates back to the 15th century , when it was worn as a status symbol white edged cuffs and collars denoted your position in society. Today, it is a popular trim, particularly in lingerie and bridal wear.

Napping

a finishing technique, where the short fibres are lifted from the fabric surface. It can be achieved by brushing or rubbing fabrics or, alternatively, using a machine covered with fine wire teeth, which pick and raise loose fibres, fusing the ends together so nothing frays.

Godet Pleat

a flared shape that uses triangular fabric inserts to give the garment extra movement. The skirt has a fitted upper part, with godet panels inserted at even intervals around the hem, giving it more swing.

ruching

a gathered overlay of fabric strips that are pleated, fluted, or gathered together to create a ripple-like effect. The frill or pleat of the fabric, often lace, chiffon or muslin, has evolved from the 16th century ruff.

bell sleeve

a long sleeve that is fitted from the shoulder to wrist and gently flared from wrist onward.

Overcasting

a method of casting off. This often slanted needlework stitch that is usually done by hand and is worked over another stitch to outline a design motif. It can also be to stitch over raw edges to prevent work from unravelling.

Gusset

a panel, either triangular or diamond in shape, that is inserted into a garment to help shape and reinforce key points, like the underarms or crotch. You get gussets in modern tights and pantyhose — they add breadth and breathe to the crotch seam. It's from this panel that that the term 'don't bust a gusset' (don't rip your pants) originates.

power dressing

a phrase originally coined in 1970s America and by the 1980s, everyone was wearing this smart style of dress. Tailored jackets, shoulder pads, dresses whipped in at the waist and a skirt that stopped on the knee. Think Melanie Griffith in Working Girl, aspiring to be Coco Chanel.

shawl

a piece of fabric worn by women over the shoulders or head or wrapped around a baby.

espadrille

a sandal with a fabric upper and a flexible often rope sole

Scalloped technique

a series of convex curves, commonly at the edge of a piece of fabric fabric, that look the edge of a scallop shell when repeated. As a motif, scalloping is particularly popular in haute couture, on collars, hems and necklines.

Gathering

a sewing technique that reduces the length of piece of fabric, so a longer piece can match and be attached to a shorter one. It is used to manage, as much as disguise, a source of fullness — such as on a cuff or sleeve — and can also pinch a skirt into a waistband or bodice.

Valance

a short piece of drapery, often hung to conceal structural fixtures. Most commonly used to edge tables, beds or shelves, this form of ruffle also has a place in high fashion.

bolero

a shrug or short jacket. Typically open-fronted, it is collarless with long sleeves and characteristically stops above the waist. It originates, like the music, from Spain. Before the 19th century, it was more commonly referred to as a Zouave. Although these two jackets share all the same features, a Zouave had a military influence, while the bolero had been inspired by dance and sometime even a toreador.

Raglan Sleeve

a sleeve that extends not only to the shoulder, but all the way to the neckline, creating a long, diagonal seam that runs from armpit to neck. Its name comes from the First Baron Raglan, Lord Fitzroy Somerset, Commander-in-Chief, who lost his arm during the Crimean war. Think 'The Charge of the Light Brigade' mixed with sportswear.

mermaid line

a slinky shaped gown that starts with a form-fitting bodice and a skirt silhouette. The skirt may or may not be in the same colour or texture as the top,

Patchwork

a technique of sewing small pieces of shaped fabrics, of mixed patterns, colours and texture, all together to create larger geometric designs. Traditionally, this was a form of needlework used to create the patchwork quilt, but it is now a popular technique in clothing design and interiors.

quilting

a technique where two or more layers of fabric, usually with light padding in between, are sewn together with lines of stitching. The stitches are often worked in parallel lines, forming squares or diamonds in a geometric pattern. The fabric created appears padded in appearance and is popular for jackets, coats and footwear, as well as the classic patchwork quilt.

gore

a triangular or tapered segment (narrow at the top and wider at the base) that is subtly inserted to extend the width from the waistline to the hem of a skirt. Imagine the triangular sections of an umbrella or a ship's sail; flared skirts can be made with two or more of these

Gaucho

a type of national legend in both Argentina and Uruguay — folklore heroes on horseback. The influence of their traditional dress can be seen from ponchos to espadrilles. This style is quite distinct; these cow-herders would typically wear a brightly woven poncho (which doubled as a saddle blanket and sleeping gear), with loose-fitting trousers called bombachas that were belted with a tirador, or a chiripá, a loincloth. They also carried a facón (large knife), and a rebenque (leather whip).

scoop neckline

a u shape neckline

Bateau neckline

a wide neckline that runs horizontally front and back almost to the shoulder points across the collarbone

pillbox hat

a woman's round hat with upright sides, a flat top, and no brim

Babushka Hood

a woman's scarf. Usually triangular in shape, the scarf is tied under the chin — picture a Russian doll. Fabric can vary from silk to plastic, with the 'hood' covering the crown of the head.

Knife pleats

accordion pleats (like the musical instrument) allow the garment to expand and relax in shape when moving. They are most commonly found in skirts and are a series of narrow, equal pleats, which have been sharply creased so to lie in one direction.

Mandarin Collar

aka Mao collar, is a small, close-fitting, stand up collar. It is usually about 3-4cm high, with edges that don't quite meet at the front. As its name suggests, this style comes from the traditional dress worn in Imperial China. The style is also quite similar to the Nehru collar that is often found in modern Indian men's clothing.

cruise collection

aka resort or holiday collections as they are otherwise known, launch between the two main ready-to-wear seasons; Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter. Originally, they were created with the jet set in mind and catered for a client who needed a wardrobe for their mid-season travels to climates different to their own. Now, they have been adopted by many of the big brands as an opportunity to inject an entirely new must-have mid-season collection into market.

batwing sleeve

also known as a 'Dolman' or 'Magyar' sleeve. It is a long sleeve, cut wide at the shoulder with deep armholes that leads to thin tapered wrists, giving it a'wing-like' appearance. The Dolman traces back to the Middle Ages, when it was a loose cape-like robe with a sleeve folded from the fabric. It is simpler to sew than a set in sleeve, as it is cut in one piece. But it lost popularity during World War I and II because of fabric shortages. It underwent a revival in the feminine 1940s, before being re-named this in the 80s, when it owed a lot to Madonna.

sartorial

an adjective, relates to a tailor or to tailoring. But the term can also be used to describe, clothing, manners or a style of dress. The word comes from Sartorius, which is the Latin name of the long leg muscle used w

peplum

an almost skirt-like frill or addition. They were once fitted to a waistcoat or doublet, but now to a woman's bodice, extending it below the waistline.

Jacquard

an apparatus from the 19th century and is named after its inventor, Joseph-Marie. It is attached to a loom and uses a punch-card system, which the loom reads like binary code — each card represents a line of the pattern and has holes that allow threads to pass through (or not), changing the colours and slowly creating the design. It allowed for more elaborate patterns to be produced in woven and knitted fabrics at greater quantities and speeds.

Trompe l'oeil

an art technique that has been borrowed by fashion, where a designer creates an optical illusion, through a change in perspective, dimension, or placement. From haute couture to the high street's illusion dresses, this method is a popular way of changing shape or adding layers, belts and collars. It was first popularised by the designer Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, when she wove a collar into a sweater.

Basting

an essential stage in the preparation of dressmaking. It refers to tacking — the long, loose stitches that, rather than pinning, anchor the material in place until the final sewing. If toiles need to be fitted on a body, it is far more professional and comfortable to baste, not pin, your silhouette or person in place.

Flounce

an exaggeration or a frill. It is a wide strip of fabric gathered and sewn to a skirt or dress. They most often appear at the hem and help exaggerate the character and silhouette of a skirt.

saddle shoe

an oxford with a lace saddle of contrasting color

full shank

button shaped like ball with loop

4 hole flat

button with 4 holes

half shank

button with large round top no holes and loop on bottom

quarter shank

button with round tp no holes and loop on bottom

paper-bag waistbands

can be both high and feminine or low slung, echoing the spirit of Katherine Hepburn. They get their name from the gathering technique and the fabric over the belt hooks.

box pleats

can be found in skirts, shirts or adding decorative flounces to interiors. They appear in 'clusters', often forming a panel, and are essentially back to back knife pleats.

Pattern

can be one of two things. 1) the decorative design that repeats over and over a fabric, 2) a flat template, made of paper or card, that is used as the key instruction guide for cutting the separate pieces of a garment. Pattern pieces are traced to allow for size, seam allowance and fit. They can help the dressmaker calculate the correct amount of fabric and its fit, before the trace and cut the template on the final fabric.

x-line

celebrate the female figure — a small waist, emphasis on shoulders and a full hem. An hourglass shape is created using belted or fitted waists, padded shoulders and full skirts and is a popular style for coats.

sling backs

characterized by the strap which buckles behind the heel

Mary Janes

closed toe and low-cut shoes, with one or more straps across the instep. The classic shoe came in black (sometimes patent) leather and became the quintessential shoe to wear with your school uniform — from Prince Charles to Princess Elizabeth, the style can be traced as back far as King Henry VIII. In the 1930s, its name was trademarked in North America. This shoe has left the school yard and travelled from Mao's China to Manolo Blahnik. Today the Mary Jane show is a symbol of girlhood; both naughty and nice.

Look Book

collection of photographs compiled by a designer to present their complete collection of clothing, accessories or footwear in a flick book. For buyers, or press, they're useful tools to help select key pieces for editorial or sale orders. From the runway show to the commercial collections, as each look is numbered and clearly shown. These were created long before the Internet, when press and sales people had to rely on their notes and memory when picking looks.

Mad as a hatter

colloquial phrase referring to a crazy person — many of whom are found in fashion. The phrase stems from 18th and 19th century England, when mercury was used in the production of felt, which was essential to the manufacture of hats at the time. The workers in the factories were daily exposed to traces of the metal. As this accumulated over time, many of them developed dementia from the poisoning — and it became known as mad hatter's syndrome. The phrase, which refers to someone seen as insane, was immortalised by the character of the Mad Hatter in Lewis Carroll's Alice in Wonderland.

Dirndl

country-inspired fashion. It is the traditional dress worn by women in Southern Germany to accompany the gentlemen in their lederhosen. The dirndl itself consists of a bodice, blouse, and full skirt — think Maria from 'The Sound of Music'. A dirndl skit is part of a light, circular cut dress, which is gathered at the waist and falls below the knee.

Knotting

craft of tying knots — deliberately — in yarn and string to create decorative items, patterns, or techniques, such as macramé and tatting.

shell hem

dainty finishing option to edge hems, tucks or trims. This technique is essentially hemming an edge in an evenly spaced and decorative manner. It should not be confused with Shell suits, however; the casual, front-zipped tracksuits made from nylon or polyester 'shell' that were popular in the late 1980s.

sheath line

designed to fit closely to the body. Unlike other cocktail dresses, it also stops at the knee — or just below. Think Jackie Kennedy Onassis or Audrey Hepburn in 'Breakfast at Tiffanys'. This style is demure, often created in a block colour and unadorned — the perfect ingredients for a classic Little Black Dress.

regimental stripes

diagonal stripe patter with wide stripes usually used in neckwear

diamond smocking

diamond shaped form of smocking, which is an embroidery technique used to hold gathered cloth in even folds.

welt pockets

either found on the front of a man's tailored jacket, with a handkerchief tucked in to them, or on the reverse of a pair of jeans. They are bound, flat pockets that have finished with a welt or reinforced border along the edge of a piece of fabric. .

Fagoting

embroidery in which threads are fastened together in bundles

Feather Stitch

embroidery stitch made up of diagonal blanket stitches, which zigzag from left to right. It is a technique consisting of looped stitches that was popular in the 19th century. Feather stitching, sometimes known as fagoting or fly stitch, can be used for decorating smocks or crazy quilting.

Bar Fagoting

embroidery technique that can be worked in by hand, in a 'bar' effect. (a crisscross design) or using a machine with fine ribbon. The purpose of the stitches are to fill the space between two finished edges. the simplest of this technique, which uses twisted embroidery thread, like a buttonhole twist, that is then covered over-and-over again with stitches.

awning stripes

even wide stripes in solid color on white background

dotted swiss

evenly spaced raised dots

queen anne straps

features a collar that becomes high in back covered shoulders and a v-neck

2 hole flat

flat button with 2 holes

moccasins

flat leather shoe; Native American shoe

pleats

fold or doubling of fabric that is pressed, ironed or creased into place. (When they are sewn into place they are called tucks). They can be inserte, as well as inverted. they add an even greater fullness to a shape (particularly the skirt). Think Marilyn Monroe over the air vent in 'The 7 Year Itch'.

Tapered

for edges, hems, heels or seams, is when the shape diminishes or reduces in thickness at one end, tapering to a point.

cartridge pleat

form of pleats most often used in skirts or curtains. They are a series of small, rounded, stand-away folds of cloth.

Homburg hat

formal hat characterized by a single dent on top

revers

found on the neckline. They're when a wide lapel is turned back to reveal the reverse or underside of fabric. A revere collar, however, is a flat v-shaped collar, often found on blouses.

Jabots

frilled, decorative ruffles (often lace) that hang at the front of the shirt. They were the equivalent of a 17th century gentleman's tie, when they were often made of lace or cambric, and sewn to both sides of the front opening of a man's shirt. Later, they were secured at the neck with a band or a pin. Think Pirates of the Caribbean meets the Supreme Court — They are still part of judges' and barristers' ceremonial dress

Fluted Hem

gives a flirty finish to a silhouette — imagine a pencil skirt with a flounce on its hem. It's a popular feminine shape, which encompasses super slim pencil skirt that flairs out at the knees or below, in a style that evokes both the mermaid shape and a love of dancing.

Box jacket

has a straight, unfitted back that means it hangs loosely from the shoulders. It has evolved from the coachman's heavy overcoat, but became a status symbol during the power dressing 1980s. Since then, the jacket become a wardrobe style staple and has been adopted by several high profile female politicians and leaders — think Chanel tweed coming to the White House

wedge heel

he heel sits on triangular, unbroken 'slice', which runs solidly to the middle or front of foot. Popular since the 1930s, they are often made of cork, wood or rubber and are sometimes finished in cloth or leather.

Embroidery

he skilled technique of embellishing and decorating a garment by hand, using stitches in silks and yarns and sometimes including sequins, beads, feathers and pearls. It dates back to the 5th century BC in Ancient China. Today, Lesage in Paris is one of the most revered houses in the world for this technique. It employs an endless number of different stitching styles, from running to braiding, lazy-daisy, feather, blanket and cross, or French knots, beading, bullion and smocking. This skilled handicraft is at the very core of haute couture

spool heel

heel is wide at beginning, narrows in middle and widens a little at end

peep-toe heels

heels with cut out on the tip that shows toes

stiletto heels

high and slender, tapering to a sharp point on women's shoes and boots. Their creation was tied to the advent of technology that allowed designers to use metal-reinforced shafts that would support a thinner heel. The phrase was first associated with shoes in the 1930s (they were named after the stiletto dagger), and conjures up an image of the femme fatale, a cocktail of fetish and feminine.

curved heel

high thin heel with a curved shape, the arch is curved towards the outside

italian heel

high thin straight heel. The heel is a straight line from where it intersects with the sole to the end

zipper

hookless fasteners. They have two rows of 'teeth' that slide together to bind and fasten openings on bags, skirts or trousers. can be inserted into a slash or seam with a closed end. Elsa Schiaparelli was one of the first designers credited with turning them into a fashion statement back in the 1930s.

bayadere

horizontal stripes in strongly contrasting colours in different widths

fishnets

hosiery with diamond shape open knit

Lining

inner layer of fabric, like silk or fur, that provides a polished finish — concealing any seam allowances, interfacing or construction details This can also add a layer of insulation or reinforce shapes and silhouettes, particularly in tailoring.

Kick Pleats

inverted pleats used at the base of a narrow skirt to give it a 'kick'. They allow the wearer more freedom of movement. Kick pleats are often short pleats, leading up from the bottom hem, and are commonly found in the back of skirts or coats.

rickrack

is a popular zigzag braid that can be woven in various widths, colours or fabric types to edge clothes and curtains. Think Little House on the Prairie for this style of waved braid.

passementerie Edging

is an ornamental edging or trim, made of braid, cord, lace or metallic beading, and often coming with tassels as well. This elaborate edging, often with jet or metal beads, is frequently found in haute couture.

Braiding

is not too dissimilar to hair plait it shares a name with. It is a trim, binding or embroidery that can be applied to embellish or pattern a garment, from the hem to a free-style design.

wife beater

lang phrase for a vest or tank top, typically white in colour. The term came about due to the item's association with the stereotype of abusive men, but feminists adopted have since adopted the garment as their own — to hell with the man

Harem Pants

long, baggy pants that are fitted at the ankle. They were originally known as a harem skirt and were introduced to western fashion circles in 1910 by the Parisian designer, Paul Poiret. Harem pants were inspired by Middle Eastern styles that date back much further that the early 20th century, however. At the time, the Harem pant was considered a controversial way of introducing trousers into a woman's wardrobe. Poiret was inspired by images of sultans to create a style that was as shocking as it was liberating.

Kangaroo Pockets

long, lengthwise pockets — a bit like a letterbox — that have two 'pocket' gaps for the hands at either end. They are often used on hoodies or in sportswear.

Kimono

loose-fitting, T-shaped robes that are part of the traditional national dress of Japan. They have wide sleeves, typically cut in one piece with the rest of the garment, and are full length, wrapping to close at the front.

bishop sleeve

made with a row of vertical pleats at the shoulder that released into a soft, full sleeve gathered to a fitted cuff at the wrist

FIligree

most often found in haute couture; an intricate and decorative technique, where gold, silver or copper wire is twisted and formed into delicate scrolls, ornate arabesques or fanciful tracery, which is scattered like etching over a fabric's surface.

Wing Collars

most often found on a man's dress collar or black tie attire. They are starched collars, that stand up stiffly, with their points folded down to resemble little peak wings —much like a paper aeroplane.

haute couture

much-misused phrase that actually has very specific rules for qualification. These are garments created as one off pieces for a specific client. 19th century Englishman Charles Frederick Worth is considered as the father of this and today members are selected by the Chambre Syndicale. To qualify as an official house, members must design made-to-order clothes for private clients, with more than one fitting, using an atelier (workshop) that employs at least fifteen full time staff. They must also have twenty full time technical workers in one of their workshops. Finally, these houses must present a collection of no less than 50 original designs — both day and evening garments — to the public every season, in January and July.

A-Line

name of the triangle-like silhouette that begins fitted, typically starting at the waist, and gets gradually wider from the hips down to the hem. It echoes the shape of a capital A. The term was first coined in 1955 by Christian Dior to describe the shape of his Spring Summer Collection. Later, it evolved into Yves Saint Laurent's 1958 Trapeze Line in his first collection for the house, where the shape drops from the shoulder.

Peter Pan Collar

named after the collar worn by Maude Adam's in her classic 1905 performance as the lead role in J.M.Barrie's novel. Shaped to fit the neckline, it is a flat collar that lies upon the torso with soft, curved corners. I

halter neckline

neckline formed by straps that are linked in back

high neckline

neckline that completely covers chest and partially covers neck

court neckline

neckline with linear edges and 90 degree corners

square neckline

neckline with linear edges with rounded corners

cable smocking

one of the most popular smocking stitches, along with the Trellis stitch. It is an outline stitch, worked in one row of dots that can then be developed in one of three ways to create traditional style English smocking

H-Line

one of the silhouettes introduced by Christian Dior. This silhouette was introduced in 1954 and, as the letter would suggest, was straight with a slight accent on the waist. It was popular for emphasizing length in the leg, making it a feminine shape, rather than something square and boxy.

circular cut

one of the simplest methods used to make or construct. A circle skirt is, as it sounds, just that — rather than cutting straight angles, you trace a circle, creating a soft fullnes. also the basic pattern used to create ruffles, just like those that adorned traditional flamenco dresses.

Epaulet

originally ornamental shoulder decorations that showed military rank. They have since been adopted as a fashion statement. From the shoulder pteruges of Ancient Rome, to ribbons worn on military coats, the epaulet (taken from the French 'little shoulder') was a mark of valour. They can be cut from metal or cloth, but are often gold trimmed with bullion fringing.

capsual collection

originally popularised by Donna Karan in the 1980s. The idea was to create a capsule wardrobe that features only the most essential or influential pieces from a collection. essentially a condensed version of a designer's vision, often limited edition, which transcends seasons and trends by being functional — read commercial. They often focus on construction and delivering key looks, without the styling and theatrics of a show.

plissé

originally referred to fabric that had been woven or gathered into pleats and has also been known as crinkle crêpe. It takes its name from the French word for fold. Today, it is a lightweight fabric with a crinkled, puckered surface, formed in ridges or stripes. can also describe a chemical finishing technique, where plisse fabrics are used for underwear.

Necklines

outline of the upper edge of a garment —obviously — around or below the neckline. They come in many varieties of style from the low to the high, the square, the V, the halter, the sweetheart, the turtle, the polo and the scoop, to name a few.

Boteh

paisley produced in paisley scotland

greek neckline (grecian)

piece of fabric starting from center of chest opens up around the neck

jewel neckline

plain rounded neckline that sits above the collarbone

Appliqué

popular technique, particularly in haute and demi couture, where one material, usually plain, is placed on top of another to create unique contrasting motifs, pattern or texture. It is essentially the collaging, or layering of fabrics, traditionally using needlework techniques, to 'ornament' or 'apply' an extra dimension on to the fabric.

Trapeze Line

popularised by Christian Dior's successor, Yves Saint Laurent in spring 1958, with his collection of the same name that featuring dresses that flared from the fitted shoulder line. This line reinvented the A-Line, what had bee "most wanted silhouette in Paris," with the same swing as its circus counterpart.

ready-to-wear (RTW)

pret-a-porter - mass produced intended to be sold by retailers to customers (has six major zones that are listed from most to least expensive below) 1. Design Signature: Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta 2. Bridge: Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein's CK 3. Contemporary: Cynthia Rowley 4. Better: Liz Claiborne, Nautica 5. Moderate: Guess, Levi 6. Budget: JCPenny's Arizona line of jeans, Sear's Canyon River Blues line of Jenas

Lettuce hem

pretty wavy — much like the legume itself when it's been slice up. This wiggle of a hem works best edging jersey or fabrics that have stretch, as the cross-grain elastic quality keeps the 'bounce' of the wave, not letting your lettuce go limp and flat. Popularized by Stephen Burrows

Patch pockets

reated by attaching a pre-cut pieces of material and sewing them, like a patch, to the outside of a garment, instead of constructing inset pockets. Often patch pockets have a flap at the top and become a feature of the design — think the patch pockets on Paddington Bear's duffle coat.

seersucker

recognizable by the alternating stripes of puckered and smooth fabric. The plain weave is made in various fabrics, from synthetic to silk. The term is taken from the Persian phrase 'shir o shakka', meaning milk and sugar.

jodhpurs

riding pants

vent

serves a similar purpose to a slit. They are often in the back seam of a jacket, where they have been inserted to let the shape 'breathe'.

kitten heel

short stiletto 1.5-1.75 in

Gaiter

similar to a spat, it is a protective covering of cloth or leather that sits over a shoe. Both cover the ankles and sometimes even the lower leg. But while a gaiter is is an overshoe, a spat can be incorporated into the shoe itself, covering the instep and ankle. Imagine 'Spats' Columbo, the gangster in Prohibition America in Billy Wilder's 1959 film 'Some Like it Hot'.

Sabrina neckline

similar to the bateau, it goes to both shoulders and covers clavicle leaving part of the shoulder bare

Eyelets

small hole or perforation that is used as a fastening, with a cord or hook. Usually it is set with a metal, cord or fabric ring. The 'little eye' ring reinforces the hole and prevents it from stretching, while the small eye is for threading lace, string or rope through. can be either functional or purely for decorative purposes.

tattersall

small scale check

calico

small scale floral design

candy stripes

small scale stripes

flat shank button

smooth flat button, no holes, small loop on bottom

stub (snap)

snap button

unpressed pleats

softer than their pressed counterparts and have a more rounded edge. usually wider, creating a more delicate silhouette.

Frog Fastenings

sometimes referred to as a 'Chinese frog'. These are ornamental braidings used to fasten the front of a garment and consist of a button on one side, with a loop to pass through on the other. The 'frogs' stand out eitherside like bookends. The fastenings date all the way back to Ancient China, but were famously used in in the brocade down the front of 17th century military uniforms. It was then that this decorative technique became known as 'frogging'.

cap sleeves

specific style of short sleeve that are cut and seamed to fit on the shoulder and taper to nothing underneath the arm. This style is usually not as loose as a standard short sleeve T-shirt, but more like a small umbrella covering the shoulder.

ankle strap heel

strap wraps around ankle

Keyhole neckline

style of neckline similar to a halter-neck, where the converging diagonals of the neckline's construction meet at the front. But rather than there being solid fabric here, keyhole necklines have a central cutaway just below the collarbone.

Empire Line

takes its name from Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, who was married to Napoleon, leader of the First French Empire, in the 18th century. The style has Neo-classical inspirations — as this was a Court of Gods and Goddesses. The bodice is fitted under the bustline, while the silhouette is usually loosely fitted over the body.

Banding

technique of 'binding' or fastening one piece of fabric to another. can be for function as well as frivolity and is used to strengthen or tidy a seam, as much as to lengthen a hem or add an embellishment with a decorative inlay or border.

darts

technique used for shaping garments by curving straight fabric to the body. created by stitching a long, thin pinch to a point, which is then pressed down to one side. They vary in width and length, as a garment requires, and can insert shape at the shoulder, neck, bust and waistlines by being tapered at one or both ends.

petticoats

term first used during the early 15th century, when it was actually used to describe a gentleman's short coat or undershirt. Later on in the century, it was adopted for women's dress and worn beneath a gown as an underskirt — only a small glimpse of the lacy under layer would peak through. Since then, the petticoat has evolved from plain to ornate, and is now used to add body to loose fitting skirts. Today, a petticoat hem describes the ornate lace or embellished hem that is added underneath a skirt — more as an extra flourish, than as an extra layer.

bustle

the 'pouf' or padding that is worn at the back of a skirt, either underneath or folded in to the fabric. It can be a drape or twist of fabric, or use a framework of layers and it is meant to exaggerate the feminine charm of behind. Popular particularly the Victorian era, when women were still corseted, and crinolines were in fashion, it adds fullness below a slim waist. It can be set off with bows and ribbons, although its original purpose was more practical — to pull the skirt back and keep the hem from dragging in the mud.

Turtleneck

the American name given to a polo neck, but in England, where there are both, it has a dual meaning. For the English, this neckline is tubular, although not as high or folded down as a polo neck often is.

tailoring

the artisan who fits and measures a customer (think Savile Row) A garment has to be constructed and made-to-measure for the individual. also a way to describe a garment that is more structured and precisely fitted; in haute couture you have tailleur (tailored, fitted) and flou (the more fluid, evening wear and drape).

Fabric

the blank canvas on which fashion creates. This is the starting point where anything goes. Cloth can be woven or non-woven, knitted or felted fibres and ranges from cotton to organdie, silk to georgette, pannier to jersey, tweed, velvet and more, coming in every spectrum of colour, weight and print imaginable.

Mitre corners

the diagonal fold used on either side of garment's neck label, which create the loop and hook from which you can hang the piece.

Hems

the end of a piece of cloth, where the fabric has been folded and sewn into place to prevent the material from fraying or loosing its shape. The process uses small, nearly invisible stitches to catch the fabric and hold it securely in place. Its length also often defines the silhouette of the entire outfit, from mini to maxi.

princess line

the feminine silhouette of a woman's fitted dress popularly associated with Charles Frederick Worth who introduced the silhouette in 1870s. He named it after the elegant Princess Alexandra of Denmark. this line is cut in long panels, without a horizontal joining seam or any separation at the waist. Instead, it uses darts and long seams to shape the body. In 1951 Christian Dior presented a collection, called the Line Longue, based on this silhouette

yoke

the frame or bar, fitted to a person, or animal, that helps to spread and carry weight evenly. They can also be a frame or pattern that is fitted at the shoulders or the waist, to emphasise the structure of a garmet. Bodice yokes were first seen in the 1880s, with the yoke skirt in 1898, but they can now be found stitched-in, overlaid (as decorative or transparent yokes), scalloped, scrolled or even as plastrons — yokes worn on the outside of a garment, that have been tied around the waist with a sash.

Bar Jacket

the iconic jacket created originally by Christian Dior for his 'Ligne Corolle' in 1947, from the show that was famously dubbed 'The New Look' by Carmel Snow, then Editor in Chief of Harpers Bazaar US. The jacket is a softer shape, with sloping rounded shoulders, narrow waist and padding at the hips. It would become a signature code for the house.

Interlining

the layer between the top, outer fabric and a garment's lining, which again gives shape or strength. the technique of using an additional layer or layers of fabric behind your chosen fashion fabric to change its characteristics. ... It may be fused to the fabric but is more commonly hand placed and used in the couture world to improve the finish of a garment.

Millinery

the manufacture and craft of making hats and headwear. historically would also produce everything from shirts, cloaks and shifts, to caps and neckerchiefs for both men and women, as well as designing and trimming their headgear. The term dates to the Middle Ages, when it refered to someone from Milan — the home of the fashion and textiles trade.

Almond Toe shoe

the most popular toe for shoes. It is neither too pointed, rounded or square. It gets its name from the shoe cap, creates a softer, more tapered rounded point to its toe

Peignoir

the name for the long, sheer or chiffon outer-garment, worn over by ladies over their negligee. To say it is only a light dressing gown diminishes the frivolous beauty of this translucent garment, worn by women in the privacy of their boudoir. They take their name from the French word meaning to comb the hair — a reference to the ladies who used to sit at their dressing tables in their chiffons and silks while they brushed their hair.

Herringbone

the name of a very distinct twill fabric, woven in a chevron pattern. a zigzag that reverses every few rows to produce a pattern like a herringbone's skeleton — hence the name. It is a popular pattern in suits and high fashion, as well as sportswear. Think the Duke of Windsor meets Christian Dior.

off-shoulder neckline

the straps drop on the arms

Mitre

the very tall headdress worn by bishops, cardinals and a variety of high-ranking clergymen and dignitaries. The mitre dates back to at the 10th century and today, it is a symbol of office and authority. It tapers to a point at both the front and back, with a deep cleft in between.

drape

the way a fabric or garment hangs. Coco Chanel once accused Christian Dior of doing this to women rather than dressing them, but it is an important part of fashion design. It is the process of positioning and pinning fabric onto a dress or tailor's dummy, to develop the more fluid structure. It is used particularly in haute couture.

pencil stripes

thin stripes with wide space between widgth usually around the width of pencil line

cloche hat

tight fitted hat worn by women in the 1920s

Outré

to be outrageous, eccentric and highly unconventional and so is a perfect fit for all the un-shrinking violets of the fashion world. To be startling, unusual and perhaps a touch bizarre — it's a nicer way than saying weird.

passé

to be past season, passé or out of style favour.

qi pao

traditional Chinese dress

crows feet

triangular stitches traditionally made at the end of pockets or darts on tailored garments. The shape is first marked by basting, before a needle twists the left to top corner in small left-to-right stitches and continues down, with top and outlined again. used to sew hidden strength in to points of stress, like pleats or corners.

piping

trim or edging formed by sewing a thin strip of folded fabric — typically bias binding — into a narrow tube and attaching it to the edge of a piece of fabric. It can also include cord to give it extra body. Piping is often used to define or reinforce the style lines of a garment.

Facing Fabric

two meanings and two purposes in fashion design. 1) it is applied to neaten the finish on the raw edges of a garment, like at necklines and armholes. Shaped facings, which are usually made from same fabric as the garment itself, are cut to match the edge they will face, while bias facings are strips of fabric cut on the true bias or cross-grain. These are shaped rather than cut to match an edge. 2) could also refer to the 'face side' of a fabric. This is the more presentable, upper side of the fabric — always easier to recognize when it is a printed weave.

Interfacing

unsung, invisible, yet essential ingredient in the tailoring and dressmaking processes. It is the extra layer of fabric that is set between the under-side of a garment — at a collar, cuff or pocket — where added strength and stiffness is needed.

Smocking

used to create a stretch long elastic was invented and enabled fabric to be fitted as well as flexible. It dates back to the cuffs, bodices and collars of the Middle Ages.

straight neckline

usually seen on strapless tops and dresses

V-neck

v shape neckline

cross-stitch

versatile embroidery stitch that can be make a simple background and is often used to throw tapestry and decorative embroidery into relief. It is also used for decorative edging, motifs or simple banding. As the name implies, the stitch is made up of a cross, or two diagonals.

johnny collar

very small high stand collar attatched to a v neckline

pin heel

very tall and slim

Ombre

when a colour graduates from light to dark, using all the tones of colour in the spectrum. The name comes from the classical Latin umbrare, meaning to shade or overshadow. Chiaroscuro shading is artist's technique achieved by cross-hatching or shading and is very popular in haute couture. For an example, see John Galliano's Rene Gruau Dior Couture collection from January 2011.

cowl neckline

when a garment has draped, rounded folds around the neckline, which falls below the collarbone. They became popular in the 1930s, although they are thought to have been inspired by the fashions of Ancient Greece. Their drape works to flatter rather than conform and constrict the body's contours.

puckered

when something tightly gathers into wrinkles or small folds — it can be a face or fabric. A wrinkled, tightly stitched piece of cloth may be a deliberate design feature, but more than not it is something to be smoothed out, much like the facial expression.

curved seams

when the fold or line is curved, like Princess seams. They add tailored fit or shape to garment. When constructing this seam, fabric must be evenly slashed and pulled along the seam to allow it to follow the curve desired.

Handkerchief hems

when the hemline of a dress or a skirt is made up of panels of fabric that fall in points — like the corners of a handkerchief. The technique is particularly suited to bias cutting, drawing the eye away from the hips and thighs and creating the illusion of an elongated lower half of the body.

dégredé

where a fabric's colour, or the fabric itself, fades like a sunset, from the densest pigment or thread to the finest. It is a popular technique in couture, with all the colours of the spectrum, from the deepest to eh lightest, are often used in velvets or silks. But in a barber's shop, un dégradé (coupe de cheveux) is the light layering of hair.

Faux pas

while not technically a sewing term, it is something greatly feared in fashion circles. It is a false step — be it in an error of judgement, a slip of the tongue or worst of all wearing (or creating) the wrong thing. A sartorial slip that could land you on the worst dressed list is to be avoided at all costs.

cuban heel

wide heel that moves from back of heel to ball of foot, bottom can expand

fencenet tights

wider than fishnets