Milady Chapter 21- Haircoloring

Secondary color

Color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors. Green, orange, and violet.

Double-process application

AKA 2 step coloring; a coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before depositing color is applied to the hair. * used to achieve a very light, pale blond

Tone

AKA Hue; the balance of color. * warm, cool, or neutral

Hair Lightening

AKA bleaching / decolorizing; chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial hair color pigment from the hair

Activators

AKA boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered,persulfate salts added to increase its lightening ability.

Baliage

AKA free-form technique; Painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean styled hair

Metallic haircolor

AKA gradual haircolors; haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull metallic appearance

Reverse highlighting

AKA lowlighting; technique of coloring stands of hair darker than the natural color

Demipermanent

AKA no-lift deposit-only color; formulated to deposit but not lift (lighten) natural hair color

Developers

AKA oxidizing agents / catalysts; when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color

Patch test

AKA predisposition test; Test required by the federal food, drug, and cosmetic act for identifying a possible allergy in a client.

Off-the-scalp lightener

AKA quick lighteners; powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp

Contributing pigment

AKA undertone; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process

Natural haircolors

AKA vegetable haircolors; colors, such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants. Do not lighten natural haircolor Shade ranges are limited

Porosity

Ability to absorb moisture *low, average, or high

Special effects haircoloring

Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring

Demi-permanent color

Blends gray Enhancing natural color Tones prelightened hair Refreshes faded color Filler in color correction

Cool tones

Blue, green, and violet

Lighteners

Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment

Highlighting

Coloring some of the hair stands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth

Weaving

Coloring technique in which selected stands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zig zag motion of the comb and lightener or color is applied only to these stands

Slicing

Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8 inch (.3cm) section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color

Highlighting shampoo

Colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo

Soap cap

Combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo. Use the last 5 minutes and worked through the hair to refresh the ends

Mixed melanin

Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin

Haircolor glaze

Common way to describe a haircolor service that adds shine and color to the hair

Aniline derivatives

Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex

Temporary color

Creates fun, bold results and easily shampoos from the hair. Neutralizes yellow hair.

High porosity

Cuticle is lifted Takes color quickly

Average porosity

Cuticle is slightly raised Average processing time

Low porosity

Cuticle is tight Hair is resistant

Decolorizing process

Decolorizing the hairs natural pigment allows the colorist to create the exact degree of pigment needed for the final result

Oxidative haircolors

Demipermanent & permanent

Color

Depends on the light they reflect and is perceived as red, green, blue, or other shades

Stands test

Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair

Texture

Diameter of an individual hair stand. *course, medium, or fine

Melanin

EUMELANIN- black/brown PHEOMELANIN- blonde/red MIXED- contains both

Color Fillers

Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair

Prelightening

First step of double process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner

Virgin application

First time the hair is colored

Color correction

Green-red Red-green Blue-orange Orange-blue Yellow-violet Violet-yellow

Resistant

Hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer processing time

Cortex

Middle layer of hair 80% of hairs strength Melanin found in this layer

Base color

Predominant tone of a color

20 volume

*standard volume 30 minute processing time Used to achieve most results Used for gray coverage (process for up to 45 min)

Permanent haircolor

-Covers gray -changes existing hair color -creates bright or natural looking haircolor changes

Reasons people color their hair

-cover up /blend gray -enhance existing -fashion statement our self expression -correct unwanted environmental tone -accentuate haircut

Identifying natural level

-take section from crown -move swatch along stand; scalp to ends -determine natural hair color

10 volume

Use when less lift it's desired, to enhance a natural hair color -Process up to 20 minutes

30 volume

Used for additional lift with permanent haircolor 30-40 minutes

Fillers

Used to equalize porosity

Conditioner fillers

Used too recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from stand too stand and scalp to ends.

Medulla

Innermost layer of the hair Not present in all hair

Tertiary colors

Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and it's neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts. Blue-green, red-orange, yellow-green

Semipermanent

Introduces a client to haircolor services adds subtle color results. Tones prelightened hair

Consultation

It's the most important part of the service

Permanent haircolors

Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline than no-lift deposit-only colors, are usually mixed with a higher volume developer

On-the-scalp lighteners

Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with actuators.

Cap technique

Lightening technique that involves pulling clean, dry stands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing them to remove tangles

Gray Hair

Lost its pigment Associated with aging Can be solid or blended

Volume

Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide

Semipermanent

No-lift deposit-only nonoxidation haircolor that it's not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos

Temporary haircolor

Non permanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only Choosing action that may be removed by shampooing

2 types of haircoloring categories

Nonoxidative and oxidative

Density

Number of hairs per square inch. * thick to thin

Warm tones

Orange, golden, red, and yellow

Cuticle

Outermost layer off the hair. 20% of the hairs strength.

Hydrogen peroxide developer

Oxidizing agent that when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules ad's create a change in hair color

New growth

Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored

Presoftening

Process of testing gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.

Single-process haircoloring

Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application * requires patch test 24-48 hours before application

5 volume

Processes in 10-15 minutes

Haircolor

Professional, salon industry term referring to artificial haircolor products and services

Primary colors

Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors. Blue- strongest Red- medium Yellow- weakest

Natural tones

Sandy or tan

Toners

Semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale or delicate colors

Law of color

System for understanding color relationships

Level system

System that colorist use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.

Nonoxidative haircolors

Temporary and semipermanant

Foil technique

Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected stands off hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener our permanent haircolor, ad's then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap

40 volume

Used with most high lift colors. Provides max lift in one step color service. 40 minute process

Line of demarcation

Visible line separating colored hair from New growth

Porosity test

1. take stands from the front hairline, temple, crown and nape 2. Hold securely, slide fingers from scalp. -if smooth, low porosity -slightly rough, average -rough, high 'observe wet and dry 'extremely porous rejects warmth, produces a deeper color

Natural hair color levels

10 lightest blonde 9 very light blonde 8 light blonde 7 medium blonde 6 dark blonde 5 lightest brown 4 light brown 3 medium brown 2 dark brown 1 black

10 degrees of natural hair decolorization

10. Pale yellow 9. Yellow 8. Yellow/gold 7. Gold 6. Orange/gold 5. Orange 4. Red/Orange 3. Red 2. Red brown 1. Dark red/brown

Glaze

A non ammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair

Complementary colors

A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel

Hair color

The natural color of hair

Intensity

The strength of a color

Level

The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a color