19/20. Oceans and Shorelines

If a beach is in an east-west orientation and the waves are approaching the shore from a southeasterly direction, in which direction will the longshore drift be? (North is the top of the page, west is left, east is right, south is bottom) a. southern b. northern c. western d. eastern

Western

Beach nourishment involves ____________________________. a. the removal of sand and rock from coastal areas b. adding vitamins to the aquatic beach environment to support reef life c. planting reef communities d. adding additional sand to coastal areas

adding additional sand to coastal areas

Longshore current is the result of waves ________. a. retreating back to the ocean b. coming into shore at an angle c. coming in perpendicular to the shore d. created during large storms

coming into shore at an angle

In the figure below, which direction is the longshore drift? a. east (right) b. south (down) c. north (up) d. west (left)

east (right)

Uplifted platforms and notches, and exposed reefs are evidence of _______________. a. submergent coasts b. emergent coasts c. the Coriollis Effect d. atolls

emergent coasts

Longshore currents ________ the shoreline. a. flow parallel to b. flow directly away from c. are not affected by d. flow directly toward

flow parallel to

Because of wave refraction, erosion along an irregular coastline is ________. a. even along the length of the coast b. greatest along headlands c. greatest in bays d. the same as it would be along a regular coastline

greatest along headlands

High tide will be ________ when the Sun and Moon are aligned parallel to each other as opposed to normally (when they are not aligned parallel to each other). a. lower b. the same c. higher d. reversed

higher

A wave will disturb the water to a depth equal to ________. a. its wavelength b. the bottom of the seafloor c. one-half of its wavelength d. its surface amplitude

one-half of its wavelength

An increase in the rate of sea floor spreading would cause ______. a. no change in sea level b. sea level to rise c. sea level to fall d. a tsunami

sea level to rise

Tides are predominantly controlled by: a. the gravitational pull of the Moon and the Earth's rotation b. the hour of the day c. the gravitational pull of the Sun and the Earth's rotation d. the location of land masses

the gravitational pull of the Moon and the Earth's rotation

Barrier islands are constantly moving in the direction of ________. a. the Coriolis effect b. rip tides c. the longshore drift d. the high tide

the longshore drift

Which is the larger of the two tidal bulges? a .the one farthest from the Sun b. the one closest to the Sun c. the one farthest from the Moon d. the one closest to the Moon

the one closest to the Moon

The Coriolis effect causes the apparent deflection of currents due to ________. a. changes in wind speed b. the location of the Moon c. changes in ocean currents d. the rotation of Earth

the rotation of Earth

In the figure below, which letters represent the crest and trough? a. A and B b. D and E c. B and C d. C and D

C and D

When sea level rises and floods a glacially carved valley, the area is called a(n) ________. a. wetland b. fjord c. drowned river valley d. reef

Fjord

The zig-zag movement of sand along shorelines results in the development of many shoreline features, such as spits and baymouth bars. What is the name of this process, and what is the cause? a. longshore drift - salt water intrusion b. sand refraction - wave refraction c. longshore current - longshore drift d. longshore drift - longshore current

Longshore drift - longshore current

On an irregular shoreline, the energy of a wave is ________________. a. concentrated along the headlands by wave refraction b. concentrated along the beaches by wave refraction c. completely dissipated before reaching the shore d. evenly spread over the entire shoreline

NOT completely dissipated before reaching the shore

What prevents each spot on Earth from experiencing two precise high tides and low tides a day? a. the shape of the tidal bulges b. the position of the Moon relative to Earth c. the shape of the seafloor and coastline d. the position of the Sun relative to the Moon

NOT the position of the Moon relative to Earth NOT the position of the sun relative to the moon

Why do beaches become sediment-starved after dams are installed on rivers? a. The chemical composition of river water is changed when it flows through a dam; this alters the amount of chemical weathering that occurs along the coast. b. Dams are built using sediment covered in concrete; the sediment most often comes from nearby beaches. c. Dams trap water, thus reducing the volume of water that enters the ocean and erodes away the coast to produce sediment. d. Rivers supply sediment to beaches; dams trap river sediment, and thus that sediment cannot make it to the beaches.

Rivers supply sediment to beaches; dams trap river sediment, and thus that sediment cannot make it to the beaches.

Reefs are different from other shoreline features We have discussed one way in which they are distinct, and we will address another at the conclusion of the course. You don't need to know that yet to answer this question. What are distinct ways reefs differ from other shoreline features? a. They depend on living processes to create them, and they can become a future fossil fuel. b. They are entirely nature made, and they thrive in all environments. c. They occur only as fringing reefs d. They survive in only certain areas, and they depend on nonliving processes to create them.

They depend on living processes to create them, and they can become a future fossil fuel.

Wind is an influence on ________. a. waves b. tsunamis c. currents d. tides

waves