Chpt 14: Principles Of Hair Design

Oval Facial Type

Facial Contour: The oval face is about one & a half times longer than its width across the brow. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin. A person with an oval face can wear any hair style unless there are other considerations, such as eye glasses, length & shape of nose, or profile.

Contrasting Lines

Horizontal & vertical lines that meet at a 90 degree angle & create a hard edge.

Horizontal Lines

Lines parallel to the floor or horizon, create width in design.

Diagonal Lines

Lines positioned between horizontal & vertical lines. They are often used to emphasize or minimize facial features.

Vertical Lines

Lines that are straight up & down; create length & height in hair design.

Directional Lines

Lines with a definite forward or backward movement.

Small Chin

Move the hair up & away from the face along the chin line.

Straight Profile

Neither convex nor concave; considered the ideal.

Profile

Outline of the face, head, or figure seen in a side view.

Very Curly, Fine Hair

The most flattering shape for the client must be determined before you begin styling. Keep in mind that for ease of styling, this hair type is generally best cut short. If the hair is long, the silhouette will be wide, & extremely voluminous. Chemical services & hair pressing (temporarily straightening) take well, but be careful because the hair may be fragile.

Emphasis (Focus)

The place in a hairstyle where the eye is drawn first before traveling to the rest of the design.

Fine, Straight Hair

This combination usually hugs the head shape due to the fact that there is no body or volume. The silhouette is small & narrow. If this is not appropriate for the client based on the facial features or body structure, think about what styling aids or chemical services can be recommended to achieve the most flattering style. Left natural, this hair type may not support many styling options.

Straight, Coarse Hair

This hair is hard to curl & carries more volume than the previous two types. It casts a slightly wider silhouette & responds well to thermal styling. Flat brushes are better for this hair type because of a wide diameter in the hair shaft. Blow-drying with round brushes can create too much volume for this hair type. Chemical services may also take a little longer to process.

Curly, Coarse Hair

This hair needs heavy styling products to weight it down. It is easy for this type of hair to overwhelm any client. Keep in mind while cutting this hair type that the hair will shrink considerably when dry, making it appear much shorter.

Bang Area (Fringe Area)

Triangular section that begins at the apex, or high point of the head, & ends of & at the front corners.

Symmetrical Balance

Two halves of a style; form a mirror image of one another.

Large Forehead

Use bangs with little or no volume to cover the forehead.

Square Jaw

Use curved lines at the jaw line.

Round Jaw

Use straight lines at the jaw line.

Transitional Lines

Usually curved lines that are used to blend & soften horizontal or vertical lines.

Close-Set Eyes

Usually found on long, narrow faces. Direct hair back & away from the face at the temples. A side movement from a diagonal back part with some height is advisable. A slight lightening of the hair at the corner of the eyes will give the illusion of width.

Wide-Set Eyes

Usually found on square or round faces. Use a higher half bang to create length in the face. This will give the face the illusion of being larger & will make the eyes appear more proportional. The hair should be slightly darker at the sides than the top.

Design Texture

Wave patterns that must be taken into consideration when designing a style.`

Curly, Fine Hair

When this hair type is worn long, it often separates, revealing the client's scalp unless the hair is thick in density. This hair type responds well to mild relaxers & color services. Blow-drying the hair straight may be difficult unless the hair is cut into short layers. Blow-drying is not an effective solution if the client is going to be in a humid environment.

Zig-Zag Part

Zig-zag partings create a dramatic effect.

Wide Forehead

Direct hair forward over the sides of the forehead.

Receding Forehead

Direct the bangs over the forehead with an outwardly directed volume.

Form

The mass or general outline of a hair style. It is three-dimensional & has length, width, & depth.

Wide, Flat Nose

Draw the hair away from the face & use a center part to help elongate & narrow the nose.

Asymmetrical Balance

Established when two imaginary halves of a hairstyle have an equal visual weight, but the two halves are positioned unevenly. Opposite sides of the hairstyle are different lengths or have a different volume. Asymmetry can be horizontal or diagonal.

Curved Part

A curved part is used for a receding hairline or high forehead.

Diagonal Part

A diagonal part gives height to a round or square face & width to a long, thin face.

Single Lines

A hair style with only one line, such as the one-length hair style.

Rhythm

A regular pulsation or recurrent pattern of movement in a design.

Small Nose

A small nose often gives a child-like look; therefore, it is best to design an age-appropriate hair style that would not be associated with children. Hair should be swept off the face, creating a line from nose to ear. The top hair should be moved off the forehead to give the illusion of length to the nose.

Triangular Part

A triangular parting is the basic parting for bang sections.

Center Part

Center partings are classic. They are used for an oval face, but also give an illusion to wide & round faces. Remember to avoid using center partings on people with prominent noses.

Illusion Of Dimension

Depth is created when colors that are lighter & warmer alternate with those that are darker & cooler.

Diagonal Back Part

Diagonal back partings are used to create the illusion of width or height in a hairstyle.

Crooked Nose

Asymmetrical, off-centered styles are best, as they attract the eye away from the nose. Symmetrical styles will accentuate the fact that the face is not even.

Narrow Forehead

Direct hair away from the face at the forehead. Lighter highlights may be used at the temples to create the illusion of width.

Curved Lines

- Lines moving in a circular or semi-circular direction. - Used to soften a design.

Concave Profile

- Curving inward - Prominent forehead & chin, with other features receded inward.

Convex Profile

- Curving outward - Receding forehead & chin

Balance

- Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry. - In hair styling, it is the relationship of height to width.

Line

- Line defines form & space. The presence of one nearly always means that the other two are involved. Lines create the shape, movement, & design of a hairstyle. The eye follows the lines in a design. They can be straight or curved. - There are four basic types of lines: * Horizontal * Diagonal * Vertical * Curved

Oblong Facial Type

Facial Contour: long, narrow face with hollow cheeks. Objective: to make the face appear shorter & wider. Styling Choice: Keep the hair fairly close to the top of the head. Add volume on the sides to create the illusion of width. The hair should not be too long, as this will elongate the oblong shape of the face. Chin length styles are most effective for this facial type.

Diamond Facial Type

Facial Contour: narrow forehead, extreme width through the cheekbones, & narrow chin. Objective: reduce the width across the cheekbone line. Styling Choice: Increase the fullness across the jaw line & forehead while keeping the hair close to the head at the cheekbone line. Avoid hairstyles that lift away from the cheeks or move back from the hairline on the sides near the ear area.

Triangular (Pear-Shaped) Facial Type

Facial Contour: narrow forehead, wide jaw, & chin line. Objective: to create the illusion of width in the forehead. Styling Choice: A hair style that has volume at the temples & some height at the top. You can disguise the narrowness of the forehead with a soft bang or fringe.

Round Facial Type

Facial Contour: round hairline & round chin line; wide face Objective: to create the illusion of length to the face, since this will make the face appear slimmer. Styling Choice: a hair style that has height or volume on top & closeness or no volume at the sides.

Square Facial Type

Facial Contour: wide at the temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, & squared off at the jaw. Objective: to offset or round out the square features. Styling Choice: Soften the hair around the temples & jaw by bringing the shape or silhouette close to the head form. Create volume in the area between the temples & jaw by adding width around the ear area.

Inverted Triangle (Heart-Shaped) Facial Type

Facial Contour: wide forehead & narrow chin line. Objective: to decrease the width of the forehead & increase the width in the lower part of the face. Styling Choice: Style the hair close to the head with no volume. A bang or fringe is recommended. Gradually increase the width of the silhouette as you style the middle third of the shape in the cheekbone area & near the ears & keep the silhouette at its widest at the jaw & neck area.

Receding Chin

Hair should be directed forward in the chin area.

Long Jaw

Hair should be full & fall below the jaw to direct attention away from it.

Parallel Lines

Repeating lines in a hair style; may be straight or curved.

Side Part

Side partings are used to direct hair across the top of the head. They help develop height on top & make thin hair appear fuller.

Long, Narrow Nose

Stay away from styles that are tapered close to the head on the sides, with height on top. Middle parts or too much hair directed toward the face are also poor choices. These will only accentuate any long, narrow features on the face. Instead, select a style where the hair moves away from the face, creating the illusion of wider facial features.

Space

The area surrounding the form or the area the hair style occupies.

Proportion

The comparative relation of one thing to another; the harmonious relationship among parts or things.

Harmony

The creation of unity in a design; the most important of the art principles. Holds all the elements of the design together.

Large Chin

The hair should be either longer or shorter than the chin line so as to avoid drawing attention to the chin.

Wavy, Coarse Hair

This hair type can produce a silhouette that is very wide, & the hair can appear unruly if it is not shaped properly. Although blow-drying can be effective with this hair type, blow-drying is often much easier for the stylist than for the client. If the client is not good at working with her own hair, try to work out a flattering shape that is easy to maintain. Clients with this hair often feel that their hair leaves them trapped between being too wavy to be left in a straight style, & not being curly enough for a curly style. A soft perm could easily bring the client to a wash-&-wear curly style. A chemical relaxer might work very well if the client prefers a straighter look.

Curly, Medium Hair

This hair type creates a wide silhouette. When left natural, this type of hair gives a soft, romantic look. The wide silhouette should be in proportion to the client's body shape & not overwhelm it. When shaping the hair, keep in mind where the weight line of the haircut will fall. This hair responds well to relaxers & color.

Extremely Curly, Medium Hair

This silhouette can get very wide, because the hair can look wider rather than longer as it grows. Chemical relaxers work very well to make the shape narrower, & hair pressing is also a good option. Thermal styling could follow the pressing. If the hair is left in its natural state, cropping it close to the head in a flattering shape is great for ease of styling & low maintenance.

Extremely Curly, Coarse Hair

This silhouette will be extremely wide. Chemical relaxing is often recommended to make it easier to style with other thermal services. This hair type is often too thick to tie back into a ponytail, so if the client does not want any chemical services & wants easy care, suggest short, cropped layers to make the silhouette narrower.

Wavy, Fine Hair

This type of hair can appear fuller with the appropriate hair cut & style. With layering, it will look fuller, & it responds well to blow-drying & chemical services. This hair can be fragile so be careful not to overdo any of these services. If the desired result is straight hair, it will straighten easily by blow-drying, but you may sacrifice volume. If diffused, the hair will have a fuller appearance.

Straight, Medium Hair

This type of hair offers more versatility in styling. It responds well to blow-drying with various sized brushes & has a good amount of movement. It will also respond well to rollers & thermal styling.

Wavy, Medium Hair

This type of hair offers the most versatility in styling & can be diffused to look curly, or be easily straightened by blow-drying.

Prominent Nose

To draw attention away from the nose, bring hair forward at the forehead with softness around the face.