Textiles HSC study
Importance of Branding
- Affects decisions such as pricing, consumer choice, legal protection, emotional connection with consumer, etc. as well as this it sets the designer appart from competing designers
Acetate Properties
- Low warmth - Low absorbancy - Fast drying - comfortable - prone to static - soft handle and excellent drape - low strength - poor abrasion resistance - higher elasticity than viscose - creases - wash and iron with care (thermoplastic)
pile weave
- a decorate weave - includes a plain or twill weave as the base - extra warp and weft yarns are used that project above the base weave - have a 3D structure
Jacquard weave
- an intricate weave - individual warp yarns can be raised or lowered on the loom - may be combinations of plain, twill or satin weaves - are expensive fabrics due to the intricate designs.
staple yarn end use
- apparel - furnishing
bi-component - advantages on the consumer and society
- bulky or crimping effect - new machines reduce time of process - low prices
combed staple yarn end use
- cotton sewing thread - knitted underwear - batiste (very light sheer skirt and shirt fabric) - parcale - voile, - lawn
microfibers - disadvantages on the employee
- workers replaced by machines
end use of soil resistant - scotchguard
-domestic textile areas - upholsery - fabrics from interiors - automotic application - carpet - upholstery - suits
Kalamkari process
1. cloth is first stiffened by being steeped in astringents and buffalo milk and is then dried in the sun 2. the red, black, brown and violet portions of the desgin are outlined with a mordant, the cloth is thin placed in a bath of alizarin 3. the cloth is then covered with wax, except for the parts to be dyed blue and placed in an indigo bath 4. the wax is scraped off and the areas to be yellow or pale green are painted by hand
end uses of bi-component yarns
Apparel; - pantyhose - knitewear - socks - baby wear Upholstery; - floor covering
example of the pile weave fabric
Crushed velvet; - 68% acetate /32% rayon - cut-warp pile weave that is piece dyed - the crushed surface is created when twisting the velvet when wet - pile height 3mm or less - lustrous - soft and warm -used for apparel and home furnishing terry toweling; - 100% cotton - slack- tension pile weave with loop pile - extra yarns that form the pile are in the warp direction - highly absorbent (cotton properties) - snags easily - thick and soft - low lustre - used for towels and dressing gowns
what does EMDG stand for?
Export market development grants
fire retardant
Substance that helps delay or prevent combustion
contemporary influences
current trends, affecting current fashion silhouettes. eg. our current concern for the environment and sustainability and the attention to eco-design
what does the EMDG do?
is a program that provides small and medium business with up to 50% reimbursement of certain export promotion expenses above a $15000 threshold
Ethical Clothing Australia
previously called homeworkers code of practice and the no sweat shop label - used to tackle underpayment and poor conditions in the industry, various business and union representatives have come together to help local clothing businesses to ensure that Australian workers making their products receive a fair wage and work in decent conditions
first method of bi-component yarns
side-by-side extrusion; yarns are produced side - by - side
washable webs - advantage on the manufacture
- cheap to produce - easy to sew - low durability causing people to buy more often
plain weave
- cheapest weave as it is simple - good for printing ( plain surface) - maximum # of interlacing points = strong - fabrics look the same on both sides - can incorporate decorations eg. using dyed or fancy yarns - strong and hardwearing - used on Polyester, cotton, calico, poplin, taffeta, gingham - the warp and weft are aligned to form a simple criss-cross - when weft = interlacing one over the other - when waft = looks like a checker board - used for fashion and furnishing fabrics
bi-component - advantages on the environment
- clean - eco friendly - many recyclable
woolen staple yarn end uses
- coarse wool carpet - knitting wool
silk properties
- cool on skin yet good insulation - can absorb its weight in water - very comfortable - soft handle and excellent drape - good strength - very good elasticity, creases drop out - wash and iron with care, best dry cleaned
cotton properties
- cool to wear unless brushed - highly absorbent, slow to dry - very comfortable unless wet - soft handle - good drape - good strength (due to 70% crystalline regions) - abrasion resistant - great durability - primarily a crystalline fibre - poor elasticity (due to high % of crystalline regions) - cellulose - staple - convolutions - kidney shaped
carded staple yarn
- cotton fibre only - low to medium twist - uneven thickness - uneven surface - poor resiliency - strong - more durable than combed staple - absorbent - slower drying - soft handle
combed staple yarn
- cotton fibre only - medium to high twist - uneven thickness - smooth surface, -finer yarn - poor resilience - durable - soft - absorbent - quick drying
crepe weave
- created by random arrangement of floats = an all over pebble effect. - can be constructed using high-twist yarns - woven under the tension of a loom, when the fabric is released it forms an uneven, pebbly texture.
influences on the designers
- cultural - historical - contemporary
bi-component - disadvantages on the employee
- decrease in human interaction - less pay due to decease in skill/ tech requirements
bi-component - advantages on the manufacturer
- desired fabrics consumer wants - many methods to choose from
how washable webs enhance the performance of fabric
- dont fray - durable - abrasion resistant - highly absorbent - made to be disposable after a single or limited number of uses - usually both durable and disposable items
carded staple yarn end use
- drill - jeans - gabardine summer suits - denim - sheeting - toweling - cotton poplin (shirts)
yarn information
- either a z - twist or s-twist which influences the lustre of the yarn - the twist is the most important factor in determining the properties of the yarn - if the z and s-twists are alternated a lustrous striped pattern is created - can be a low or high twist
multifilament yarns
- even - strong - good luster - durability - medium elasticity - medium resiliency - slightly absorbant used for rayon, polyester and nylon
multifilament yarn end uses
- evening wear - lingerie
microfibers - disadvantages on the consumer
- expensive - creates pollution
microfibers - disadvantages on manufacturer
- expensive to create
bi-component - disadvantages on the manufacturer
- expensive to produce
fabric- tricot knit
- fair drape - good resistance, good dimensional stability - high strength, moderate abrasion resistance - fair moisture absorbancy, moderate heat conductivity - good shape retention
yarn - high twist, staple yarn
- fair lustre, fair drape, firm handle - fair resistance good dimensional stability - poor absorbancy - good strength, fair abrasion resistance - good shape retention - variable environmental stability - good alkali resistance, poor soil and stain resistance
monofilament yarns
- fine and strong - good lustre and durability - inelastic - poor resilience - poor absorbancy used for rayon, polyester and nylon
worsted staple yarn end uses
- fine wool suiting
yarn - core staple spun
- good drape - good resilience, good elastic recover - high strength, moderate abrasion resistance - fair moisture absorbancy
yarn - filament yarn
- good luster, moderate drape - good dimensional stability - good strength, good abrasion resistance
yarn - medium twist, multifilament
- good luster, smooth hand and fair drape - good resilience - high strength and fair abrasion resistance - poor absorbancy and poor heat conductivity
fibre- 100% Nylon
- good lustre, crisp hand and fair drape - good resilience - high strength and good abraision resistance - poor absorbancy and poor heat conductivity - good environmental stability
Fibre - 100% silk
- good lustre, fair drape - good dimensional stability - fair abrasion resistance - fair environmental stability - poor resistance to light
fabric - satin weave
- good lustre, fair drape - good dimensional stability - good strength, poor abrasion resistance
monofilament yarn end use
- hosiery - invisible sewing thread
end use of washable webs
- interlining, interfacing, insulation - bra and shoulder padding - nappies, blankets, teabag covers, chux - army equipment, uniforms, tents, parachutes - surgical masks - enviro bags
bi-component - advantages on the employee
- job opportunities - new technologies - chance to be trained in more innovative techs, skill acquisition
microfibers - advantages on the employee
- job opportunities - new technology
bi-component - disadvantages on the environment
- large number of chemical used
washable webs - advantage on the employee
- less labor in new technology
Elastane (Elastomeric) properties
- low % always used in blends - absorbent - drys well - adds stretch comfort - soft or firm handle - good strength - Very high elasticity (can be stretched up to 500% without breaking and will return to its original shape) - crease resistant - machine washable (thermoplastic) - primarily an amorphous fibre
washable webs - advantage on the consumer and society
- low cost - doesn't fray - crease resistant - stable to wash and dry clean
washable webs - disadvantage on the manufactuer
- low durability = more fabric needed and more time
Viscose properties
- low warmth - more absorbent than cotton - comfortable to wear - soft or firm handle - good drape - lower strength than cotton - poor elasticity - creases easily - washable, easy to iron and cheap
Polyester Properties
- low warmth, unless textured - very low absorbancy - HYDROPHOBIC - fast drying - comfortable, prone to static - microfibers breathable - soft or firm handle - very strong (crystalline in structure ) - abrasion resistant - very good elasticity - crease resistance - machine washable, iron with care (thermoplastic) - made from polymer chips - filament - smooth
Polyamide (nylon) properties
- low warmth, unless textured - very low absorbancy - HYDROPHOBIC - fast drying - comfortable, prone to static - microfibers breathable - soft or firm handle - very strong (high % of crystalline regions) - abrasion resistant - very good elasticity - crease resistance - machine washable, iron with care (thermoplastic) - made from polymer chips - filament - smooth
rayon properties
- made from wood pulp - cellulose in nature - regenerated properties - silk-like appearance yet a lot cheaper - good conductor of heat - cool against skin - high absorbancy (amorphous fibre) - dyes easily - good drape - medium abrasion resistance - low - medium strength - poor elasticity (unless wet) - can stretch out of shape when washing - filament - smooth
washable webs - disadvantage on the employee
- may be CAD, CAM rather than labor
Fibre - 100% cotton
- moderate lustre, crisp handle and fair drape - poor resilience, good dimensional stability - high strength, fair abrasion resistance - good absorbancy - poor shape retension, good colourast - variable envionmental stability- good alkali resistance, poor soil and stain resistance
fabric - dobby weave
- moderate lustre, firm handle, fair drape - good resilience good dimensional stability -fair absorbancy, fair abrasion resistance - good shape retention, - good environmental stability -good alkali resistance, good soil and stain resistance
bi-component - disadvantages on the consumer and society
- no desired visual effect, texture, soft hand or stretch recovery
microfibers - advantages on the environment
- not dependent on natural resources
washable webs - disadvantage on the consumer and society
- not long life - not as strong as knitted or woven
bi-component yarns end uses
- pantyhose - knitwear - knitting yarns - socks and baby wear - upholstery - floor covering - stabilising (industrial fabrics)
microfibers - advantages on the manufacturer
- quality control - weft yarns produce heavy weight fabrics - warp yarn product light weight fabrics - have a range of finishing techniques
types of soil resistant products
- scotch-guard (not permanent) - Fluro-chemistry (permanent or temporary/renewable) - Teflon - Nano Tex
satin weave
- smooth and lustrous appearance - is warp faced = strong warp wise making it have excellent drape - end uses can have different weights eg. heavy = furnishing (demask) and lightweight (linings and underwear) - weft yarns are almost hidden by warp - the floating warp yarn can snag easily due to loose weave - the more floating yarns create more surface area, giving it the lustrous and sheen appearance - more likely to fray as the waft and weft do not interlace often - smooth and shiny surface and weft shows only on the wrong side of the fabric
fabric- high count, plain weave
- smooth, firm handle and fair drape - good resilience and demensional stability - high strength and good abrasion resistance - poor absorbancy
how bi-component yarns enhance performance
- soft - bulky - light/medium weight - non fraying - durable - abrasion resistance
microfibers - advantages on consumer
- soft - use for travel - wind resistant - east to care for - drys quickly - machine washable - doesnt use natural resources
staple yarn
- uneven - weak - poor lustre - durability - good elasticity - good resiliency - good absorbancy used for staple fibres such as cotton, wool or manufactured fibres but into staples.
wool properties
- warm to wear - slow drying - absorb its weight in water (due to amorphous regions) - at its finest is very comfortable - good drape - low strength (highly amorphous regions) - not durable - very good elasticity - wash and iron with care, may shrink. Dry clean -primarily an amorphous fibre - protein - staple - overlapping scales
Acrylic properties
- warm to wear - fast drying - comfortable to wear - very soft - wool like handle - good drape - good strength - very good elasticity - crease resistant - machine washable, iron with care - may shrink (thermoplastic)
washable webs - disadvantage on the environment
- waste products - landfill (nappies decomposing)
How does GORE-TEX work?
- waterproof: the tiny pores are smaller than drops of water, preventing them from getting in - windproof: provides a wind shield. The product still breaths yet the wind stays out -Breathable: the pores of the membrane are 700 times bigger than water vapour molecule, so perspiration can easily evaporate through and the inside can stay dry
examples of direct selling
- website or e-buisness - mail order or catalogue - market stall - door to door - home or party plan - telemarketing - direct selling retail shop
woolen staple yarn
- wool fibre only - fuzzy in appearance - dull lustre - excellent drape - weak - less duable - softer handle - thicker - more resilient - heavier in weight - slower drying - more absorbent
worsted staple yarn
- wool only - smoother yarn in appearance - low sheen - moderate drape - wrinkle resistant - moderate weakness - more durable than woolen staple - harder handle - finer - less resilient - quicker drying - less absorbent - cooler handle due to finer, smoother texture
twill weave
-diagonal lines - the production is more complicated = $$ - strongest weave - the diagonal lines shows that there is a definite front and back to the fabric - the uneven surface = disguise of dirt better - drapes well - can create patterns within the weave eg. dog tooth check - used on denim, drill, gaberdine, herringbone and twills - fabrics are more likely to fray as the warp and weft interlace less often
microfibers - disadvantages on the environment
-machines admit noise (noise pollution) - transport vehicles produce air pollution
principles of printing
1. a printing bed is prepared using a soft resist underneath a hard surface 2. a VISCOUS printing pate is applied to the raised surface of the print tool 3. the print rool is then pressed directly and firmly onto the fabric. sometimes a rubber mallet is used to ensure an even contact with the textile material 4. often the printed design is repeated. Aligning the print is known as registration 5. the printed fabric is then heat-set via STEAMING to ensure the print paste has penetrated the fibres and will stay 6. the fabric is then washed to remove all debris, residue or non-fixed color
principals of dyeing
1. the QUANTITY of dye is calculated by the weight of the fabric to be dyed. 2. The fabric is then WETTED OUT to improve the intake of the dye liquor. 3. IMMERSED in the dye bath. 4. AGITATION through heat, chemicals and movement, this will assist in dye uptake 5. MIGRATION occurs when the dye molecules move towards the fabric absorbing the dye, resulting in the exhaustion of the dye bath 6. DIFFUSION occurs when the dye molecules move into the amorphous regions of the fibre. Sped up by heat and chemicals. 7. This causes ANCHORAGE by trapping the dye molecule inside the fibre through temperature and mordants. which FIXES the dye into the fabric
method of Proban
1. treatment takes place at the finishing stage of the textiles manufacturer 2. involves chemical impregnation 3. the molecules are small, and they penetrate the internal areas of the fibre, with some spaces between the fibres (uses chlorine and phosphorous) 4. the dying removes excess moisture and prepares the fabric for curing 5. dried fabric is then cured with ammonia gas. This causes the small molecules to cross link and form a polymer 6. the polymer is then physically trapped, and fixed in the core of each fibre (cannot be removed by laundering) 7. a final oxidation and neutralisation treatment completes polymer fixation and removes any residue by-products
FURNISHING -- Lounge cover- fibre, yarn and fabric and finish
100% cotton high twist spun yarn dobby twist water repellent
APPAREL -- ski jacket -fibre, yarn and fabric
100% nylon medium twist multifilament high count plain weave
TEXTILE ART --wall hanging - fibre, yarn, fabric and finish
100% silk, filament yarn satin weave anti-microbial
third method of bi-component yarns
Bi-constituent fibre extrusion; fine fibrils of one polymeric substance are embedded in the matrix of another
example of plain weave fabric
Calico; - low cost - made in different weights and widths - suitable for experimental textile works (cheap) - often used by designer to make prototype of the work
example of a product being modified and re-promoted
Chesty BONDS singles. in 1992, the star of Australian film, 'strictly ballroom' wore the chesty bonds singlet, the new generation say them as a desirable piece of clothing therefor increasing the product life
example of twill weave fabric
Denim; - is strong, firm and durable - hard-wearing cotton used - warp faced yarn dyed (indigo blue) and the weft yarns are left white - abrasion resistant - used for work clothes and jeans or home furnishing
example of waterproofer
Gore -Tex
example of fire retardant
Proban - usually applied to bulk fabrics before making up product - applied to both knitted and woven fabrics when exposed to flame, proban fabrics form an insulated char,which stays in place and helps protect from consumer. They don't smoulder, don't have an after glow, do not melt. the process is completely irreversible, and as the polymer is embedded in the body of the fibre, it is completely insoluble and cannot be removed
the four P's
Product, Price, Place, Promotion
example of satin weave fabric
Sateen; - usually 100% polyester - is weft faced so warp fabric only shows on the back - often used as the base for a more complicated weave constructions such as crepe - good lustre - excellent drape - snagging may occur - usually used for formal wear.
example of the Jacquard weave
Tapestry; - yarns are dyed before weaving - distinguished by its very intricate patter, which imitates hand woven tapestry - usually used for upholstery
introductory stage
The product life cycle stage when the product first appears in the marketplace. the consumers have little knowledge regarding the qualities and advances of purchasing such a product. sales are usually slow at this stage, with little profit being earned.
fibre definition
a fine, thread- like substance with a length a least one hundred times greater than the width; these are the raw materials used to make yarns and fabric
what is Gore-Tex seam sealing
a special tape is used, to ensure that all the stitch holes don't let water in
what globalisation does
advancements in, and the rapid development of technology to create links between people of all cultures and integrate the whole earth into one global system
what is Austrade?
an initiative established to assist Australian companies to export their goods and services. Its mission is to contribute to community wealth by helping more Australians succeed in export and business by providing advance, market intelligence and support to companies to reduce the time, cost and risk involved in selecting, entering and developing international markets
end use of microfibres
apparel: - hosiery - dresses - sportswear - ties - scarfs - rainwear furnishing - curtains, sheets, towels, blankets specialised enviro friendly cleaning products
growth stage
as consumer becomes aware of the produce, sales increase. The promtion of the product results in selective demand and a growth in profits
how bi-component yarns enhance performance
because the yarn is soft, lofty, bulky and inexpensive. They are light to medium weight, non-fraying, very durable and abrasion resistant
what is Gore- Tex laminates
can choose this fabric depending on what is most important or the garment eg. weight, texture, abrasion resistance
bi-component yarns
consist of two filaments, staple or natural fibres that are either chemically or physically different.
tricot knit
constructed by warp knitting. usually made from filament yarns such as polyester and nylon
second method of bi-component yarns
core-and -sheath extrusion; the core yarn is produced in the middle, covered or sheathed by an outer yarn produced around the core yarn (polymer surrounded by another polymer)
Fibre - cotton/spandex
cotton contributes: - good strength, good abrasion resistance, - high moisture absorbancy, good heat conductivity - variable environmental stability - poor acid resistance, fair alkali resistance Spandex contributes: - high resilience, good elasticity recovery - poor strength, good flexibility - variable environmental stability - poor acid resistance, fair alkali resistance
COSTUME -- dance leotard - fibre, yarn, fabric and finish
cotton/spandex blend core staple spun tricot knit anti microbial
what is gore-Tex?
created by laminating the specific membrane to high-performance textiles and then sealing them with an innovative solution leaving the material 100% waterproof POS- more choise NEG- more expensive and more care
Anti-microbial
enhance the environmental stability of the material preventing the growth of mold or other micro organism that would ruin/ damage the product
washable web fibre innovation
fabrics manufactured from non woven sources
how microfibres enhance performance
fibre innovation - ultra fine - light weight - soft = better drape and comfort - can create water proof and resistance - it can hold many times its own weight in water - high strength (besides rayon)
cultural influence
influence of dance and movement, art, social life and practicing artists such as music icons and celebrities. As well as this the certain architectural style may also impact on textiles, designs and silhouettes through mirroring within the clothing. the available resources, religions, belief, values, attitudes, travel are also a form of this.
what is the Gore-Tex membrane
is the heart of all the products. It contains over 9 billion microscopic pores square inch. Which are 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, but 700 times larger than a water vapour molecule. It allows perspiration to escape from the inside
micro-fibres
less than one denier thick
direct selling
marketing products to ultimate consumers through face-to-face sales presentations at home or in the workplace
Decline stage
newer or better products replace the original product causing promotion to be reduced or stopped and sales and profits decease. It is this stage that the product may be modified and re-promoted to extend its life
washable webs - advantage on the environment
non woven bags last longer = no plastic bags
historical influences
particular era or historical period, often due to events, people, resources available available during a particular period. Eg. the great depression = major effect on the economy and the resources available, silhouette was also influenced as the rations took a toll on designers concepts
Legislation definition
refer to a single law (also known as a statute) or a collection of laws.
historical event definition
refers to an event in history, social event or societal development. Examples of this may include WWII, the great depression, Rock'n'Roll, the industrial revolution and women's liberation
Technological development definition
refers to improvements in machinery and new products. Examples of this may include; invention of the zipper, synthetic dyes, synthetic fibres, machinery such as the spinning jenny, shuttleless loom
Historical Design Development Definition
refers to the waya particular design/item has changed and/or grown overtime. Examples of this is the HDD of the women's corset/bodice
soil resistant finish
scotchguard method- sprayed from a bottle pos- does the job neg- can wash out, not environmentally friendly
yarn definition
the basic thread component of all fabric construction ; they have continuous length but small cross-sections and are usually held together by twisting or spinning
What is a niche market?
the division of the market segment where a specific production is focus on its well defined need. this specific product features aimed t satisfy specific market needs, as well as the price range, production quality and the demographics that it is intended to impact upon and which cannot be filled by the mass market
globalisation
the increasing world wide connection, integration and interrelationships in the economic, social, technological, cultural, political and the ecological spheres.
maturity stage
the stage of the greatest sales and profit. supply meets the demand and the marketplace becomes saturated with the product. Competition increases, so marketing strategies must also increase to remind consumers of the quality of the product.
bi-component yarns
two filaments, staple or natural that are either chemically or physically different (fibres with two parts)
what does UPF stand for?
ultraviolet protection factor
how washable webs are created
webs of synthetic fibres are bonded or interlocked, or both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical or solvent means and contributions - heat or adhesive
example of crepe weave
wool crepe; - 100% worsted wool - fibre dyed - distinguished b a pebbly surface caused by random interlacing - medium drape - low strength - limited durability - lightweight - used for apparel and home furnishing