Textiles HSC study

Ace your homework & exams now with Quizwiz!

Importance of Branding

- Affects decisions such as pricing, consumer choice, legal protection, emotional connection with consumer, etc. as well as this it sets the designer appart from competing designers

Acetate Properties

- Low warmth - Low absorbancy - Fast drying - comfortable - prone to static - soft handle and excellent drape - low strength - poor abrasion resistance - higher elasticity than viscose - creases - wash and iron with care (thermoplastic)

pile weave

- a decorate weave - includes a plain or twill weave as the base - extra warp and weft yarns are used that project above the base weave - have a 3D structure

Jacquard weave

- an intricate weave - individual warp yarns can be raised or lowered on the loom - may be combinations of plain, twill or satin weaves - are expensive fabrics due to the intricate designs.

staple yarn end use

- apparel - furnishing

bi-component - advantages on the consumer and society

- bulky or crimping effect - new machines reduce time of process - low prices

combed staple yarn end use

- cotton sewing thread - knitted underwear - batiste (very light sheer skirt and shirt fabric) - parcale - voile, - lawn

microfibers - disadvantages on the employee

- workers replaced by machines

end use of soil resistant - scotchguard

-domestic textile areas - upholsery - fabrics from interiors - automotic application - carpet - upholstery - suits

Kalamkari process

1. cloth is first stiffened by being steeped in astringents and buffalo milk and is then dried in the sun 2. the red, black, brown and violet portions of the desgin are outlined with a mordant, the cloth is thin placed in a bath of alizarin 3. the cloth is then covered with wax, except for the parts to be dyed blue and placed in an indigo bath 4. the wax is scraped off and the areas to be yellow or pale green are painted by hand

end uses of bi-component yarns

Apparel; - pantyhose - knitewear - socks - baby wear Upholstery; - floor covering

example of the pile weave fabric

Crushed velvet; - 68% acetate /32% rayon - cut-warp pile weave that is piece dyed - the crushed surface is created when twisting the velvet when wet - pile height 3mm or less - lustrous - soft and warm -used for apparel and home furnishing terry toweling; - 100% cotton - slack- tension pile weave with loop pile - extra yarns that form the pile are in the warp direction - highly absorbent (cotton properties) - snags easily - thick and soft - low lustre - used for towels and dressing gowns

what does EMDG stand for?

Export market development grants

fire retardant

Substance that helps delay or prevent combustion

contemporary influences

current trends, affecting current fashion silhouettes. eg. our current concern for the environment and sustainability and the attention to eco-design

what does the EMDG do?

is a program that provides small and medium business with up to 50% reimbursement of certain export promotion expenses above a $15000 threshold

Ethical Clothing Australia

previously called homeworkers code of practice and the no sweat shop label - used to tackle underpayment and poor conditions in the industry, various business and union representatives have come together to help local clothing businesses to ensure that Australian workers making their products receive a fair wage and work in decent conditions

first method of bi-component yarns

side-by-side extrusion; yarns are produced side - by - side

washable webs - advantage on the manufacture

- cheap to produce - easy to sew - low durability causing people to buy more often

plain weave

- cheapest weave as it is simple - good for printing ( plain surface) - maximum # of interlacing points = strong - fabrics look the same on both sides - can incorporate decorations eg. using dyed or fancy yarns - strong and hardwearing - used on Polyester, cotton, calico, poplin, taffeta, gingham - the warp and weft are aligned to form a simple criss-cross - when weft = interlacing one over the other - when waft = looks like a checker board - used for fashion and furnishing fabrics

bi-component - advantages on the environment

- clean - eco friendly - many recyclable

woolen staple yarn end uses

- coarse wool carpet - knitting wool

silk properties

- cool on skin yet good insulation - can absorb its weight in water - very comfortable - soft handle and excellent drape - good strength - very good elasticity, creases drop out - wash and iron with care, best dry cleaned

cotton properties

- cool to wear unless brushed - highly absorbent, slow to dry - very comfortable unless wet - soft handle - good drape - good strength (due to 70% crystalline regions) - abrasion resistant - great durability - primarily a crystalline fibre - poor elasticity (due to high % of crystalline regions) - cellulose - staple - convolutions - kidney shaped

carded staple yarn

- cotton fibre only - low to medium twist - uneven thickness - uneven surface - poor resiliency - strong - more durable than combed staple - absorbent - slower drying - soft handle

combed staple yarn

- cotton fibre only - medium to high twist - uneven thickness - smooth surface, -finer yarn - poor resilience - durable - soft - absorbent - quick drying

crepe weave

- created by random arrangement of floats = an all over pebble effect. - can be constructed using high-twist yarns - woven under the tension of a loom, when the fabric is released it forms an uneven, pebbly texture.

influences on the designers

- cultural - historical - contemporary

bi-component - disadvantages on the employee

- decrease in human interaction - less pay due to decease in skill/ tech requirements

bi-component - advantages on the manufacturer

- desired fabrics consumer wants - many methods to choose from

how washable webs enhance the performance of fabric

- dont fray - durable - abrasion resistant - highly absorbent - made to be disposable after a single or limited number of uses - usually both durable and disposable items

carded staple yarn end use

- drill - jeans - gabardine summer suits - denim - sheeting - toweling - cotton poplin (shirts)

yarn information

- either a z - twist or s-twist which influences the lustre of the yarn - the twist is the most important factor in determining the properties of the yarn - if the z and s-twists are alternated a lustrous striped pattern is created - can be a low or high twist

multifilament yarns

- even - strong - good luster - durability - medium elasticity - medium resiliency - slightly absorbant used for rayon, polyester and nylon

multifilament yarn end uses

- evening wear - lingerie

microfibers - disadvantages on the consumer

- expensive - creates pollution

microfibers - disadvantages on manufacturer

- expensive to create

bi-component - disadvantages on the manufacturer

- expensive to produce

fabric- tricot knit

- fair drape - good resistance, good dimensional stability - high strength, moderate abrasion resistance - fair moisture absorbancy, moderate heat conductivity - good shape retention

yarn - high twist, staple yarn

- fair lustre, fair drape, firm handle - fair resistance good dimensional stability - poor absorbancy - good strength, fair abrasion resistance - good shape retention - variable environmental stability - good alkali resistance, poor soil and stain resistance

monofilament yarns

- fine and strong - good lustre and durability - inelastic - poor resilience - poor absorbancy used for rayon, polyester and nylon

worsted staple yarn end uses

- fine wool suiting

yarn - core staple spun

- good drape - good resilience, good elastic recover - high strength, moderate abrasion resistance - fair moisture absorbancy

yarn - filament yarn

- good luster, moderate drape - good dimensional stability - good strength, good abrasion resistance

yarn - medium twist, multifilament

- good luster, smooth hand and fair drape - good resilience - high strength and fair abrasion resistance - poor absorbancy and poor heat conductivity

fibre- 100% Nylon

- good lustre, crisp hand and fair drape - good resilience - high strength and good abraision resistance - poor absorbancy and poor heat conductivity - good environmental stability

Fibre - 100% silk

- good lustre, fair drape - good dimensional stability - fair abrasion resistance - fair environmental stability - poor resistance to light

fabric - satin weave

- good lustre, fair drape - good dimensional stability - good strength, poor abrasion resistance

monofilament yarn end use

- hosiery - invisible sewing thread

end use of washable webs

- interlining, interfacing, insulation - bra and shoulder padding - nappies, blankets, teabag covers, chux - army equipment, uniforms, tents, parachutes - surgical masks - enviro bags

bi-component - advantages on the employee

- job opportunities - new technologies - chance to be trained in more innovative techs, skill acquisition

microfibers - advantages on the employee

- job opportunities - new technology

bi-component - disadvantages on the environment

- large number of chemical used

washable webs - advantage on the employee

- less labor in new technology

Elastane (Elastomeric) properties

- low % always used in blends - absorbent - drys well - adds stretch comfort - soft or firm handle - good strength - Very high elasticity (can be stretched up to 500% without breaking and will return to its original shape) - crease resistant - machine washable (thermoplastic) - primarily an amorphous fibre

washable webs - advantage on the consumer and society

- low cost - doesn't fray - crease resistant - stable to wash and dry clean

washable webs - disadvantage on the manufactuer

- low durability = more fabric needed and more time

Viscose properties

- low warmth - more absorbent than cotton - comfortable to wear - soft or firm handle - good drape - lower strength than cotton - poor elasticity - creases easily - washable, easy to iron and cheap

Polyester Properties

- low warmth, unless textured - very low absorbancy - HYDROPHOBIC - fast drying - comfortable, prone to static - microfibers breathable - soft or firm handle - very strong (crystalline in structure ) - abrasion resistant - very good elasticity - crease resistance - machine washable, iron with care (thermoplastic) - made from polymer chips - filament - smooth

Polyamide (nylon) properties

- low warmth, unless textured - very low absorbancy - HYDROPHOBIC - fast drying - comfortable, prone to static - microfibers breathable - soft or firm handle - very strong (high % of crystalline regions) - abrasion resistant - very good elasticity - crease resistance - machine washable, iron with care (thermoplastic) - made from polymer chips - filament - smooth

rayon properties

- made from wood pulp - cellulose in nature - regenerated properties - silk-like appearance yet a lot cheaper - good conductor of heat - cool against skin - high absorbancy (amorphous fibre) - dyes easily - good drape - medium abrasion resistance - low - medium strength - poor elasticity (unless wet) - can stretch out of shape when washing - filament - smooth

washable webs - disadvantage on the employee

- may be CAD, CAM rather than labor

Fibre - 100% cotton

- moderate lustre, crisp handle and fair drape - poor resilience, good dimensional stability - high strength, fair abrasion resistance - good absorbancy - poor shape retension, good colourast - variable envionmental stability- good alkali resistance, poor soil and stain resistance

fabric - dobby weave

- moderate lustre, firm handle, fair drape - good resilience good dimensional stability -fair absorbancy, fair abrasion resistance - good shape retention, - good environmental stability -good alkali resistance, good soil and stain resistance

bi-component - disadvantages on the consumer and society

- no desired visual effect, texture, soft hand or stretch recovery

microfibers - advantages on the environment

- not dependent on natural resources

washable webs - disadvantage on the consumer and society

- not long life - not as strong as knitted or woven

bi-component yarns end uses

- pantyhose - knitwear - knitting yarns - socks and baby wear - upholstery - floor covering - stabilising (industrial fabrics)

microfibers - advantages on the manufacturer

- quality control - weft yarns produce heavy weight fabrics - warp yarn product light weight fabrics - have a range of finishing techniques

types of soil resistant products

- scotch-guard (not permanent) - Fluro-chemistry (permanent or temporary/renewable) - Teflon - Nano Tex

satin weave

- smooth and lustrous appearance - is warp faced = strong warp wise making it have excellent drape - end uses can have different weights eg. heavy = furnishing (demask) and lightweight (linings and underwear) - weft yarns are almost hidden by warp - the floating warp yarn can snag easily due to loose weave - the more floating yarns create more surface area, giving it the lustrous and sheen appearance - more likely to fray as the waft and weft do not interlace often - smooth and shiny surface and weft shows only on the wrong side of the fabric

fabric- high count, plain weave

- smooth, firm handle and fair drape - good resilience and demensional stability - high strength and good abrasion resistance - poor absorbancy

how bi-component yarns enhance performance

- soft - bulky - light/medium weight - non fraying - durable - abrasion resistance

microfibers - advantages on consumer

- soft - use for travel - wind resistant - east to care for - drys quickly - machine washable - doesnt use natural resources

staple yarn

- uneven - weak - poor lustre - durability - good elasticity - good resiliency - good absorbancy used for staple fibres such as cotton, wool or manufactured fibres but into staples.

wool properties

- warm to wear - slow drying - absorb its weight in water (due to amorphous regions) - at its finest is very comfortable - good drape - low strength (highly amorphous regions) - not durable - very good elasticity - wash and iron with care, may shrink. Dry clean -primarily an amorphous fibre - protein - staple - overlapping scales

Acrylic properties

- warm to wear - fast drying - comfortable to wear - very soft - wool like handle - good drape - good strength - very good elasticity - crease resistant - machine washable, iron with care - may shrink (thermoplastic)

washable webs - disadvantage on the environment

- waste products - landfill (nappies decomposing)

How does GORE-TEX work?

- waterproof: the tiny pores are smaller than drops of water, preventing them from getting in - windproof: provides a wind shield. The product still breaths yet the wind stays out -Breathable: the pores of the membrane are 700 times bigger than water vapour molecule, so perspiration can easily evaporate through and the inside can stay dry

examples of direct selling

- website or e-buisness - mail order or catalogue - market stall - door to door - home or party plan - telemarketing - direct selling retail shop

woolen staple yarn

- wool fibre only - fuzzy in appearance - dull lustre - excellent drape - weak - less duable - softer handle - thicker - more resilient - heavier in weight - slower drying - more absorbent

worsted staple yarn

- wool only - smoother yarn in appearance - low sheen - moderate drape - wrinkle resistant - moderate weakness - more durable than woolen staple - harder handle - finer - less resilient - quicker drying - less absorbent - cooler handle due to finer, smoother texture

twill weave

-diagonal lines - the production is more complicated = $$ - strongest weave - the diagonal lines shows that there is a definite front and back to the fabric - the uneven surface = disguise of dirt better - drapes well - can create patterns within the weave eg. dog tooth check - used on denim, drill, gaberdine, herringbone and twills - fabrics are more likely to fray as the warp and weft interlace less often

microfibers - disadvantages on the environment

-machines admit noise (noise pollution) - transport vehicles produce air pollution

principles of printing

1. a printing bed is prepared using a soft resist underneath a hard surface 2. a VISCOUS printing pate is applied to the raised surface of the print tool 3. the print rool is then pressed directly and firmly onto the fabric. sometimes a rubber mallet is used to ensure an even contact with the textile material 4. often the printed design is repeated. Aligning the print is known as registration 5. the printed fabric is then heat-set via STEAMING to ensure the print paste has penetrated the fibres and will stay 6. the fabric is then washed to remove all debris, residue or non-fixed color

principals of dyeing

1. the QUANTITY of dye is calculated by the weight of the fabric to be dyed. 2. The fabric is then WETTED OUT to improve the intake of the dye liquor. 3. IMMERSED in the dye bath. 4. AGITATION through heat, chemicals and movement, this will assist in dye uptake 5. MIGRATION occurs when the dye molecules move towards the fabric absorbing the dye, resulting in the exhaustion of the dye bath 6. DIFFUSION occurs when the dye molecules move into the amorphous regions of the fibre. Sped up by heat and chemicals. 7. This causes ANCHORAGE by trapping the dye molecule inside the fibre through temperature and mordants. which FIXES the dye into the fabric

method of Proban

1. treatment takes place at the finishing stage of the textiles manufacturer 2. involves chemical impregnation 3. the molecules are small, and they penetrate the internal areas of the fibre, with some spaces between the fibres (uses chlorine and phosphorous) 4. the dying removes excess moisture and prepares the fabric for curing 5. dried fabric is then cured with ammonia gas. This causes the small molecules to cross link and form a polymer 6. the polymer is then physically trapped, and fixed in the core of each fibre (cannot be removed by laundering) 7. a final oxidation and neutralisation treatment completes polymer fixation and removes any residue by-products

FURNISHING -- Lounge cover- fibre, yarn and fabric and finish

100% cotton high twist spun yarn dobby twist water repellent

APPAREL -- ski jacket -fibre, yarn and fabric

100% nylon medium twist multifilament high count plain weave

TEXTILE ART --wall hanging - fibre, yarn, fabric and finish

100% silk, filament yarn satin weave anti-microbial

third method of bi-component yarns

Bi-constituent fibre extrusion; fine fibrils of one polymeric substance are embedded in the matrix of another

example of plain weave fabric

Calico; - low cost - made in different weights and widths - suitable for experimental textile works (cheap) - often used by designer to make prototype of the work

example of a product being modified and re-promoted

Chesty BONDS singles. in 1992, the star of Australian film, 'strictly ballroom' wore the chesty bonds singlet, the new generation say them as a desirable piece of clothing therefor increasing the product life

example of twill weave fabric

Denim; - is strong, firm and durable - hard-wearing cotton used - warp faced yarn dyed (indigo blue) and the weft yarns are left white - abrasion resistant - used for work clothes and jeans or home furnishing

example of waterproofer

Gore -Tex

example of fire retardant

Proban - usually applied to bulk fabrics before making up product - applied to both knitted and woven fabrics when exposed to flame, proban fabrics form an insulated char,which stays in place and helps protect from consumer. They don't smoulder, don't have an after glow, do not melt. the process is completely irreversible, and as the polymer is embedded in the body of the fibre, it is completely insoluble and cannot be removed

the four P's

Product, Price, Place, Promotion

example of satin weave fabric

Sateen; - usually 100% polyester - is weft faced so warp fabric only shows on the back - often used as the base for a more complicated weave constructions such as crepe - good lustre - excellent drape - snagging may occur - usually used for formal wear.

example of the Jacquard weave

Tapestry; - yarns are dyed before weaving - distinguished by its very intricate patter, which imitates hand woven tapestry - usually used for upholstery

introductory stage

The product life cycle stage when the product first appears in the marketplace. the consumers have little knowledge regarding the qualities and advances of purchasing such a product. sales are usually slow at this stage, with little profit being earned.

fibre definition

a fine, thread- like substance with a length a least one hundred times greater than the width; these are the raw materials used to make yarns and fabric

what is Gore-Tex seam sealing

a special tape is used, to ensure that all the stitch holes don't let water in

what globalisation does

advancements in, and the rapid development of technology to create links between people of all cultures and integrate the whole earth into one global system

what is Austrade?

an initiative established to assist Australian companies to export their goods and services. Its mission is to contribute to community wealth by helping more Australians succeed in export and business by providing advance, market intelligence and support to companies to reduce the time, cost and risk involved in selecting, entering and developing international markets

end use of microfibres

apparel: - hosiery - dresses - sportswear - ties - scarfs - rainwear furnishing - curtains, sheets, towels, blankets specialised enviro friendly cleaning products

growth stage

as consumer becomes aware of the produce, sales increase. The promtion of the product results in selective demand and a growth in profits

how bi-component yarns enhance performance

because the yarn is soft, lofty, bulky and inexpensive. They are light to medium weight, non-fraying, very durable and abrasion resistant

what is Gore- Tex laminates

can choose this fabric depending on what is most important or the garment eg. weight, texture, abrasion resistance

bi-component yarns

consist of two filaments, staple or natural fibres that are either chemically or physically different.

tricot knit

constructed by warp knitting. usually made from filament yarns such as polyester and nylon

second method of bi-component yarns

core-and -sheath extrusion; the core yarn is produced in the middle, covered or sheathed by an outer yarn produced around the core yarn (polymer surrounded by another polymer)

Fibre - cotton/spandex

cotton contributes: - good strength, good abrasion resistance, - high moisture absorbancy, good heat conductivity - variable environmental stability - poor acid resistance, fair alkali resistance Spandex contributes: - high resilience, good elasticity recovery - poor strength, good flexibility - variable environmental stability - poor acid resistance, fair alkali resistance

COSTUME -- dance leotard - fibre, yarn, fabric and finish

cotton/spandex blend core staple spun tricot knit anti microbial

what is gore-Tex?

created by laminating the specific membrane to high-performance textiles and then sealing them with an innovative solution leaving the material 100% waterproof POS- more choise NEG- more expensive and more care

Anti-microbial

enhance the environmental stability of the material preventing the growth of mold or other micro organism that would ruin/ damage the product

washable web fibre innovation

fabrics manufactured from non woven sources

how microfibres enhance performance

fibre innovation - ultra fine - light weight - soft = better drape and comfort - can create water proof and resistance - it can hold many times its own weight in water - high strength (besides rayon)

cultural influence

influence of dance and movement, art, social life and practicing artists such as music icons and celebrities. As well as this the certain architectural style may also impact on textiles, designs and silhouettes through mirroring within the clothing. the available resources, religions, belief, values, attitudes, travel are also a form of this.

what is the Gore-Tex membrane

is the heart of all the products. It contains over 9 billion microscopic pores square inch. Which are 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, but 700 times larger than a water vapour molecule. It allows perspiration to escape from the inside

micro-fibres

less than one denier thick

direct selling

marketing products to ultimate consumers through face-to-face sales presentations at home or in the workplace

Decline stage

newer or better products replace the original product causing promotion to be reduced or stopped and sales and profits decease. It is this stage that the product may be modified and re-promoted to extend its life

washable webs - advantage on the environment

non woven bags last longer = no plastic bags

historical influences

particular era or historical period, often due to events, people, resources available available during a particular period. Eg. the great depression = major effect on the economy and the resources available, silhouette was also influenced as the rations took a toll on designers concepts

Legislation definition

refer to a single law (also known as a statute) or a collection of laws.

historical event definition

refers to an event in history, social event or societal development. Examples of this may include WWII, the great depression, Rock'n'Roll, the industrial revolution and women's liberation

Technological development definition

refers to improvements in machinery and new products. Examples of this may include; invention of the zipper, synthetic dyes, synthetic fibres, machinery such as the spinning jenny, shuttleless loom

Historical Design Development Definition

refers to the waya particular design/item has changed and/or grown overtime. Examples of this is the HDD of the women's corset/bodice

soil resistant finish

scotchguard method- sprayed from a bottle pos- does the job neg- can wash out, not environmentally friendly

yarn definition

the basic thread component of all fabric construction ; they have continuous length but small cross-sections and are usually held together by twisting or spinning

What is a niche market?

the division of the market segment where a specific production is focus on its well defined need. this specific product features aimed t satisfy specific market needs, as well as the price range, production quality and the demographics that it is intended to impact upon and which cannot be filled by the mass market

globalisation

the increasing world wide connection, integration and interrelationships in the economic, social, technological, cultural, political and the ecological spheres.

maturity stage

the stage of the greatest sales and profit. supply meets the demand and the marketplace becomes saturated with the product. Competition increases, so marketing strategies must also increase to remind consumers of the quality of the product.

bi-component yarns

two filaments, staple or natural that are either chemically or physically different (fibres with two parts)

what does UPF stand for?

ultraviolet protection factor

how washable webs are created

webs of synthetic fibres are bonded or interlocked, or both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical or solvent means and contributions - heat or adhesive

example of crepe weave

wool crepe; - 100% worsted wool - fibre dyed - distinguished b a pebbly surface caused by random interlacing - medium drape - low strength - limited durability - lightweight - used for apparel and home furnishing


Related study sets

NSG 1000: Patient Safety and Medical Errors (Week 11)

View Set

Interpersonal Messages Chapter 1

View Set

Relational Database Fundamentals

View Set

Module 3: Grand Strategy I: Introduction and Isolationism

View Set

Chapter 6 - Cognitive development

View Set

huck finn 16-17 questions and answers

View Set