Ch. 6 Implements, Tools, and Equipment

What is the function of a comedone extractor?

A fine needle point or lancet is situated at one end and the opposite end has a blunt prong with a hole in the center that is used to press out blackheads.

Explain the purpose of a hone.

A hone is an abrasive material that is harder than steel and as a result has the ability to cut or file the edge on the blade. It is used to grind the steel and impart an effective cutting edge to the razor's blade.

Name three services in which tapering combs may be used.

A tapering comb is used for cutting or trimming hair in those areas where a gradual blending of the hair is required. The tapered end is especially useful for mustache trims, tapering necklines, and blending around the ear areas.

List the principal tolls and implements used in barbering.

Although all of the implements and tools associated with barbering will probably be used at some time or another, the principal "tools of the trade" are combs, brushes, shears, clippers, trimmers, and razors.

Did You Know?

Barbers can simplify their work when cutting hair by using light-colored combs on dark hair and dark-colored combs on light hair. This technique provides greater contrast between the comb and the hair, especially when employing the shear-over comb method of cutting.

List three types of clipper motors.

Electric clippers are driven by one of three basic motor types: the rotary motor, pivot motor, and the magnetic motor which is also known a vibratory motor.

Explain the movements used in strops.

First stroke: Start the stroke at the top edge of the strop closest to the hand. Using a long, diagonal stroke with even pressure from the heel to the point, draw the razor perfectly flat, with back leading, straight over the surface. Bear down just heavily enough to feel the razor draw. Second stroke: When the first stroke is completed, turn the razor on the back of the blade by rolling it between the fingers without turning the hand. Draw the razor away from the chair toward you to complete the second stroke. Repeat as necessary.

Demonstrate the correct techniques for holding shears.

First, insert the ring finger into the finger grip of the still blade with the little finger resting on the finger brace. To ensure proper balance, brace the index finger on the shank of the still blade, approximately a half inch from the pivot screw. Next, place the tip of your thumb into the thumb grip of the moving blade. The thumb grip should be positioned halfway between the end of your thumb and the first knuckle. Avoid allowing the thumb grip to slide below the first knuckle, as you will have less control of the cutting blade.

Demonstrate honing techniques.

Honing is the process of sharpening a razor blade and the primary purpose is to obtain a perfect cutting edge on the razor. Always clean and disinfect the hone and razor before using. The blade is sharpened by honing the razor with smooth, even strokes of equal number and pressure on both sides of the blade. In addition, the angle at which the blade is stroked must be the same for both of its sides. When honing, you roll the razor against the hone from one side to the other with even pressure which is executed by not turning your wrist as you roll the razor back and forth. The hone should be kept perfectly flat while in use and sufficient space should be provided to permit freedom of arm movements. Position the hone by lying it on a hard, smooth surface or place it firmly and flatly in the palm of the hand, making sure that the fingertips do not project above the hone to avoid cutting them. The razor is stroked edge-first diagonally across the hone. This produces teeth with a cutting edge. The angle of the razor should be the same for both strokes to ensure that the cutting teeth are set at the same angle on both sides. The razor must be stroked with equal pressure from heel to point and from side to side. (FYI) Position the index finger along the top of the shank to ensure even pressure against the blade while honing. The blade should be kept flat on the hone with no rocking. An equal number of strokes should be made on both sides of the blade. When proceeding from one step to another, try to maintain four different movements, rather than a sweeping movement. As the blade edge is sharpened, gradually lighten the pressure and test frequently. The number of strokes required in honing depends on the condition of the razor's edge. A honed razor may be tested by lightly passing it over a moistened (water or lather) thumbnail. The razors edge may be keen, blunt, coarse, or rough. Different sensations are felt when the razor is passed lightly across the thumbnail. To correct an over-honed edge, draw the razor backward in a diagonal line across the hone, using the same movement and pressure as in regular honing. One or two strokes each way will usually remove the rough edge. This is called "back honing". The razor is then honed again, being careful to prevent over-honing.

List three types of hones.

In selecting a hone, remember that the finer the abrasive, the slower its action. There are three types of hones; natural, synthetic, and combination.

List some advantages of using an electric latherizer.

It is sanitary, convenient, and easy to operate. The sanitary and preheated lather coming from these modern machines impresses most clients favorably.

Explain the purpose of the strop.

It's aim is to smooth and shape the razor into a keen cutting implement.

Identify the type of soap that is used in an electric latherizer.

Liquid cream soap is used in electric latherizers

Identify the principal tools and implements used in the practice of barbering.

Non-motorized items such as combs, shears, etc. are referred to as implements; electrically powered items such as clippers, trimmers, etc. as tools; and anything from barber chairs to steam towel cabinets are considered to be equipment. The principal "tools of the trade" are combs, brushes, shears, clippers, trimmers, and razors.

How are the lengths of shears usually measured? Which sizes are used most often?

Shears are available in a variety of lengths, which are measured in inches and half inches. Most barbers prefer the 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 inch shears.

Identify the parts of hair cutting shears.

Shears are composed of two blades, one movable and the other stationary, fastened with a screw that acts as a pivot. Other parts of the shears are the finger grip, finger brace, and thumb grip.

Identify the parts of shears.

Shears are composed of two blades, one movable and the other stationary, fastened with a screw that acts as a pivot. Other parts of the shears are the finger grip, finger brace, and thumb grip.

Demonstrate stropping techniques.

Stropping a razor is a fine art that is developed through repeated practice. Its aim is to smooth and shape the razor into a keen cutting implement. A razor should never be used for shaving without first being stropped. Once the razor has been honed, it should not need stropping on the canvas side of the strop. The time to use the canvas strop is when the razor develops a smooth edge from continued use during a service and requires the mild honing effect of the canvas.

What is the difference between German and French shears?

The French style has a brace for the little finger, and the German type does not incorporate the finger brace into the design.

Name the appliance that is used to heat thermal irons and pressing combs.

The conventional or "Marcel" iron as well as pressing combs require the use of an electric stove to heat it.

Demonstrate the correct techniques for holding combs.

The correct manner in which to hold the comb will be dictated by the type of comb used, the service being performed, and the dexterity or skill and comfort of the barber.

Did You Know?

The direction of the razor used in stropping is the reverse of the direction used in honing.

Explain the movements used in honing.

The first position and stroke: Place the razor on the upper far left corner of the hone with the blade edge facing toward you. The blade must be stroked diagonally across the hone, drawing the blade toward the cutting edge and heel of the razor. The razor is stroked edge-first diagonally across the hone, as this process produces teeth with a cutting edge. Slide the razor toward the bottom left corner of the hone to position it for the second position and stroke. Second Position and stroke: After completing the first stroke, the razor is turned on its back as practiced in the rolling motion. The angle of the razor should be the same for both strokes to ensure that the cutting teeth are set at the same angle on both sides. As the razor is rolled over, slide it diagonally toward the far right corner of the hone and then toward the far left corner of the hone. The razor must be stroked with equal pressure from heel to point and from side to side. Repeat the strokes in a slow and rhythmic manner with equal pressure. If the razor is very dull, firm pressure may be used during the first honing strokes followed by a decrease in the pressure as the razors takes an edge.

Identify the two main types of shear grinds. Which type is used most frequently?

The grind of the shear refers to its cutting edge. The two main types of shear grinds are plain and corrugated. The plain grind is used most frequently and may be smooth (knife edge), medium, or coarse. The corrugated blade has imbrication's or teeth, which assist in the cutting process.

What is the best type of chair for performing barbering services?

The hydraulic chair. To use the chair properly: Lower and lock the chair before a client gets in or out of it, Rotate the chair to the proper position and lock it, Operate the chair's hand pump in a skillful and quiet way, Always lock the chair during any type of service, and press the release when removing or adjusting the headrest.

Explain the main function of the galvanic machine.

The main function of the galvanic machine is to introduce water-soluble products into the skin during a facial.

List three methods of removing loose hair from the client's face and neck.

The neck duster was once a traditional implement in the barbershop but is no longer a safe and sanitary option for hair removal unless disinfected after each use. Some methods that are in compliance with state and local health codes include: A paper cloth towel folded around the barber's hand can be used to dust off loose hair. Paper neck strips can be used, but may not facilitate a thorough enough dusting. Small electric hand vacuums and air hoses are other options that are being employed.

FYI:

The position of the clipper blades relative to the skin, and the hair's density and texture will determine the length of the hair that is left after cutting. Remember that angling the clipper blade toward the scalp or out toward the hair ends will produce different results.

Name the type of strop that is considered to be the best for barbers.

The shell or otherwise referred to as the "Russian Shell strop", is a high-quality strop taken from the muscular rump area of a horse. Although it is quite expensive, it makes one of the best strops for barbers and stylists. It tends to remain smooth and requires very little, if any, breaking in.

Identify the parts of razors.

The structural parts of both conventional and changeable-blade straight razors are the head, back, shoulder, shank, pivot, tang, and handle which are all parts of the straight razor device, and the point,edge, and heel are descriptive parts of the actual razor blade itself.

List the 11 parts of a razor.

The structural parts of both conventional and changeable-blade straight razors are the: head, back, shoulder, tang, shank, heel, edge, point, blade, pivot, and handle.

Demonstrate the correct techniques for holding clippers.

The technique used by barbers to hold the clipper is most often determined by the section of the head he or she is working on. Cutting the back section will necessitate holding the clippers differently than when cutting the top section. A general rule to follow is that the clipper should always be held in a manner that permits freedom of wrist movement.

What style comb is used for general cutting?

The teeth of a comb may be fine or otherwise close together or coarse, whereas the teeth are far apart. Fine-toothed combs may be used for general combing purposes. More specifically, the all-purpose comb style may be used for general hair cutting and styling.

List the visible parts of electric clippers.

The visible parts of an electric clipper are: the cutting blade, still blade, heel, switch, set or "power screw", and the conducting cord.

Identify the parts of clippers.

The visible parts of an electric clipper are: the cutting blade, still blade, the heel of the blade, the set screw, and the on/off switch.

Demonstrate the correct techniques for holding razors.

There are several methods of holding the razor, depending on the service being performed; however the basic holding positions are as follows: The ball of the thumb supports the razor at the bottom of the shank between the blade and the pivot. The handle is angled up, allowing the little finger to rest on the tang. Place the index finger along the back of the razor for control with the two middle fingers resting comfortably along the top of the shank. To palm the razor, curl in the ring finger and little finger around the handle. Hold the comb between the thumb, index, and middle fingers.

Name two types of straight razors.

There are two types of straight razors: the changeable-blade straight razor and the conventional straight razor, which require honing and stropping to maintain its cutting edge.

What are thinning shears used for?

Thinning or "serrated shears", are used to reduce hair thickness or to create special texturizing effects. The greater the number of notched teeth, the finer the hair strands can be cut without noticeable cut marks.

Identify the size of clipper blade that produces the shortest cut.

Traditionally, the 0000 blade has produced the closest cut, but today's balding clipper blades may cut hair closer depending on the manufacturer.

Did You Know?

When using clippers to cut the hair, the amount of hair that remains depends on whether the hair is cut with the grain or against the grain. For example, when using a 1" blade to cut with the grain, the approximate length of the hair that remains will be 1 1/8" to 1 3/8"; cutting against the grain will leave the hair from 1" to 1 1/4" long.

Clippers with a single cutting head usually have:

a lever on the side of the unit

High-frequency machine

a machine that produces a high rate of oscillation of Tesla current for the purpose of stimulating scalp, facial, and body tissues.

Conventional straight razor

a razor made of a hardened steel blade that requires honing and stropping to produce a cutting edge.

Hone

a sharpening block manufactured from rock or synthetic materials used to create a cutting edge on conventional straight razors.

Rotary or "universal" motor clipper

a style of clipper that utilizes a rotary motor to produce a powerful cutting action for heavy-duty and continual use.

Russian strop

a type of cowhide strop that is considered to be one of the best and that requires "breaking in".

Shell strop

a type of horsehide strop made from the muscular rump area of the horse and considered to be the best strop for use by barbers.

Changeable-blade straight razor

a type of straight razor that uses changeable, disposable blades.

A hone is made of:

abrasive material

Serrated shears

also known as thinning or texturizing shears; they are used to remove excess bulk from hair or to create texture and special effects.

Strop

an elongated piece of leather or other materials used to finish the edge of conventional straight razors to a smooth, whetted cutting edge.

Comedone extractor

an implement used to extract blackheads; comedone is the technical name for blackhead.

Clipper guards are also known as:

attachment combs

The grind of a razor refers to the shape of the:

blade

Pivot motor clippers have a/an:

blade-adjusting lever

The first step in sanitizing clippers and trimmers is to:

brush off hair particles

Clipper blades are usually made of:

carbon steel

The two types of razors are the conventional straight razor and the:

changeable-blade razor

While combing through the hair during a haircut service, the shears should be:

closed in resting in the barber's palm

Additional finishing on a leather strop is required when the razor edge is:

coarse

Honing and stropping are necessary for such implements as:

conventional straight razors

The two main types of shear grinds are plain and:

corrugated

The Russian strop is made of:

cowhide

Rotary motor clippers use:

detachable blades

The purpose of a hone is to:

grind the razor's edge

The desirable type of hair comb is made of:

hard rubber

The temper of a razor indicates its degree of:

hardness

The French type of hair cutting shears:

has one finger brace

To keep rubber combs in good condition, avoid contact with:

heat

Avoid strops made of:

imitation leather

When properly honed, the razor edge should be:

keen

The size of a razor is measured by the blade's:

length and width

Thermal

means heat; used to denote types of tools that produce heat for the purpose of hair styling.

When holding hair cutting shears properly, the barber places the thumb in the thumb grip of the:

moving blade

Shears with fine cutting edges can be poor cutting tools if they are:

not set correctly

The position of the hone when being used should be:

perfectly flat

Electric clippers are driven by rotary motor, magnetic motor, or:

pivot motor

Guards

plastic or hard rubber comb attachments that fit over clipper blades to minimize the amount of hair being cut with the clipper; or metal shields applied over a haircutting razor for protection.

A crocus finish on the blade of a razor is also known as:

polished steel finish

The razor finish that lasts the longest is the:

polished steel finish

Identify two services that high-frequency machines might be used for.

produces a high rate of oscillation within glass electrodes that are used in facial and scalp treatments.

The main consideration in the purchase of a straight razor is the:

quality

The width of the razor is measured in eighth inches or:

sixteenth inches

The size clipper that produces the shortest cut is:

size 0000

The clipper blade size that leaves the hair the longest is:

size 3

Trimmers

small clippers, also known as outliners and edgers, used for detail, precision design, and fine finish work after a haircut or beard trim.

The type of stroke to use when honing a razor is a/an

smooth and even stroke

The purpose of a strop is to:

smooth the razor's edge

An example of a fast-cutting hone is the:

synthetic hone

Blades

the cutting parts of the clippers, usually manufactured from high-quality carbon steel and available in a variety of styles and sizes.

Set of the shears

the manner in which the blades and shanks of the shears align with each other and are joined at the pivot screw or rivet.

The direction used in razor stropping is:

the reverse of that used in honing

The shell or Russian shell strop is created from:

the rump area of the horse

Palming the shears

the technique used to hold shears in a safe manner while combing through or otherwise working with hair.

A straight razor is properly balanced when:

the weight of the blade equals that of the handle

What does the word thermal mean?

thermal means heat and is used to denote types of tools that produce heat for the purpose of hair styling.

When hair-cutting, most detail and fine finish work is performed with the electric:

trimmer or outliner

Taper comb

used for cutting or trimming hair when a gradual blending from short to longer is required within the haircut.

The type of motor clippers that operate by means of an alternating spring and magnetic mechanism are:

vibratory motor clippers

An example of a slow-cutting hone is the:

water hone