Haute Couture: History of Style and Fashion in Paris
Le spencer jacket (women)
- A cropped jacket - Was originally designed for men
La spencer - spencer jacket (men) (early 19th century)
- A cropped jacket over the tailcoat with breeches - This was a trend - Heels are gone, they are wearing flats now
L'habit degage- tailcoat (early 19th century)
- Cut in the front, long in the back -Lost of buttons -Double-breasted -Worn with either bagger pants or breeches
Anticomania- Les Merveilleuses 1795-1799
- Greek and roman influence - Longer scarves are needed - Sandals are worn -Arms and legs are showing
late 18th century hairstyles for men:
- Hair looks shaggy - more natural - powdered
La mode masculine en 1790- Menswear in 1790
- Looks similar to the Anglomainia -Black fabrics -(starting in the 19th century, black and white would be the average look of the bouge)
La Robe a la Polonaise - Polonaise dress
- One of the first dresses Rose Bertin introduced (Marie-Antoinette started wearing it ) - It was considered scandalous - less modest and she was criticized for it
Breeches (early 19th century)
- Thick material, high waisted - Ends around the knee
La Robe a l'anglaise- The open dress
- Younger generation would wear these more - the bustle is back
Describe men's fashion during the reign of Louis XV (15th) 1715-1775
- bases stayed the same, but the proportions are what changed - breeches - shorter wigs and bag wigs
La redingote - redingote
- first obvious masculine inspired outfit for women
The redingote- the fur coat
- fur coats -More like mens wear -Muff is the name for the circular thing you place your arms into. It was popular during the 18th century
Panniers Hooped Petticoat
- garment women wore to add volume to their dress - some were made to collapse -they had slits so you could attach your pocket bags
Les incroyables - the incredible 1795-1799
- most of the people who would wear this were aristocrats
18th century shoes
- super tiny feet were the beauty standard for men and women - shoes designed to give illusion of small feet - buckles were popular
L'habit degage- dress coat tail-coat
- this is a wool coat - short in the front, but long on the back -Originally designed for horseback riding - Could be worn with pants or breeches
Describe Louis XIV's (1700-1789) fashion:
- two-three piece "suits" -Handkerchiefs hanging out of pockets (this represented luxury) -Extravagant and large -makeup
Habit a la Francaise -
-1715-1775 men's coats -less volume and fabric -more fitted -Vests got shorter
L'influence anglaise- The English influence (late 18th century)
-Blue, white, and red -Blue dyes were supposed to last longer, so it was more practical - Natural hair with powder - A huge trend for men to wear hooped gold earrings
Who would wear white dresses in the 1850s?
-Debutant women (women pushed in the wedding market) -You want to look simple and fresh
Describe 1700-1789 Women's Fashion --
-Dresses composed of skirts, stomacher, mantle. -The silhouette was shaped with a corset. -Bustle -More fabric = richer you are
Evening Dress- 1850s
-For evening events...show as much skin as possible (for the time) -Multiple bodices for one dress! Because dresses were so expensive
Crinoline- in the 1860's
-It has more of train shaped -The freedom is now lost
1850s day dress
-It's easier to walk to because there isn't a train. (that's why it is sorta "liberation" for women) -Pagoda sleeves, peplum -They all have a "V" shape Buttons down the middle
La Robe a la Francaise en Grand Habit de cour- The back sack dress as a formal court dress
-Lots and lots of volume -Large hairdos
le carrick (early 19th century)
-Lots of layers of "capes" - Functional for rain... there weren't a lot of waterproof items so this helped -Sometimes people would wax their clothes -The Carrick was big
La robe blanche - White dress (early 19th century)
-No more room to hide pockets in the dresses so people started using handbags -Highwasited, short puffy sleeves, white on white embroideries - Can't tell the difference between this and a wedding dress at the time
La chemise a la Reine- chemise
-Not silk , but made of cotton -Very basic, squared shape, no corset or skirt -Large straw hats -This was a huge scandal!!! ("the queen is dressed like a prostitute")
Pants (1820's - 1840's)
-Pants are replacing breeches -straight-leg and baggy full front opening -The wide leg pants were first worn by sailors, then became trendy for different time periods
1860's evening dress
-Short bodice, large skirt -For the hair there was more volume and curls
Le Gilet- Waistcoat Vest (1820's - 1840's)
-Still two layers shirt -Something more relaxed and casual -The waistcoats act a bit like a corset
The Ruff sleeves (early 19th century)
-The Ruff is a switch from more light and revealing to a more modest dress -You can still see the circle silhouette -Exaggeration with lots of ruffs and lace - Women are getting more and more covered
Cashmere shawl
-The cost was really really high because the material come from goat in India -If you can afford a cashmere shawl you will have it in your portrait - really cashmere is soft and warm
La redingote- Frock coat (1820's - 1840's)
-The men's silhouette isn't very differents from the women's
Short skirt and Jacket- le petit costume 1860s
-These were the outdoor outfits -The difference between the rich and the poor outfits was just the trimming -This is "functional" for the time period
Pants (early 19th century)
-They almost look naked - Some are very tight and some are loose - boots -Corduroy was used for pants (for men who worked a trade)
1860's Day dresses
-They are more simple for the time period -It is the same pattern, but the color, and fabric is different -These colors are from dyes that have bad chemicals... if they get into your skin you can be poisoned
Crinoline- in the 1850's
-This is the base of the silhouette for the 1850s and 1860s -These were made with linen or horse hair and Iron -This was an era of improvement -The cage was collapsible
La Redingote - Frock coat (early 19th century)
-This is worn for a century until the 1920s -Can be worn in a formal or causal way -Double-breasted -Boots, top hats
Robes de velours- Velvet dresses (early 19th century)
-Velvet was a little bit forgotten during the revolution - Evening wear -Medieval and renaissance influence
Chantilly Lace
-Very expensive... because it is so thin -Mass produced (but still not affordable) -Black lace
Dressing gown (1820's - 1840's)
-Was made for being worn inside your home, smoke room, bed room -Lots of colors -Turkish influence
Exoticism
-With steamboats people would travel more, there are influences from different countries -Scotland, mountain climbers in switzerland, - the kilt which was a more "exotic" look for the west
Charles Frederick Worth
-father of haute couture -He would have a lot of premade dresses and then you would get fitted and order a dress. -Historicism is a large part of his design.
La Robe Volante- The sack dress (18th century)
-relaxed and loose -These didn't last very long. It was easy for people to repurpose them -Stomachers aren't seen on these -worn with panniers
Historicism
-reusing elements of older styles and mixing them together -Vintage -Connected with the romantic era -Huge round circular turban -The sleeves are influenced by 16th century - small skirt is a reference to 18th century
le Gilet - waistcoat vest (early 19th century)
-sideburns are a trend -Very high collar -the shirts are large pieces of fabric - Perfectly white and starch linen with dark waistcoat
L'habit revolutionnaire- Revolutionary Dress (late 18th century)
-this is a working class outfit - looks like a modern day leather jacket
L'habit de cour - court dress (early 19th century)
...
Une Nouvelle Silhouette- A new silhouette (early 19th century)
Bridgerton!!! -the skirt is a "circle" -Still high-waisted -very simplified silhouette -corsets aren't worn as much during this time -functional
What is the line down the middle of a corset called?
Busk
Breeches
Knee-length pants
1860's Summer dresses
Lighter fabric, but you still can't show your skin in the daylight
What did Louis XIV (14th) invest and organize?
Luxury trade
La Robe Retroussée dans le poches - the dress caught in the pockets (18th century)
Mid 18th century -During this era there was a lot of chinese influence -Shorter skirts = ability to move/more functional -modiste would wear this
For Louis XIV (14th) fashion means ____ and _____.
Power and Glory
Who was Rose Bertin, Marchand de Modes?
She was Marie- Antoinette's dressmaker. - Self-made woman who came from the country to paris and was very successful. - She wasn't married, but made a lot of money - Was paid for her creativity (not just labor)
True or False: Corsets start to come back in 1820
TRUE
L'habit- Tailcoat (1820's - 1840's)
The jackets aren't changing much
Shawls and Mantles- 1860s
The silhouette is like a pyramid
Pagoda sleeves
The sleeves are narrow around the shoulders and larger near the cuffs
The bolero jacket
They were so popular because it would add more warmth without hiding your waistline!!
La Robe a la Francaise- The back sack dress
This is THE 18th century dress. If you go to versailles you would wear this! - There is a fitted wait line -The front is defined
leg of mutton sleeve
a full puff to the elbow, then a fitted sleeve from the elbow to the wrist or a wide top that narrowed gradually to the wrist
bustle
a padded undergarment used to add fullness at the back/butt of women's dresses
