textiles test 5- finishes and dyes
sustainabiitiy improvements of finishing
-foam finishing and plasma save water -use of better chemicals (enzymes) -working on recycling water -amoniating finish instead of mercerization EPA and clean water act
legal aspects
1. fair trade practices 2. information labeling 3. worker safety 4. environmental protection
steps in finishing a fabric
1. fiber/yarn processing 2. yarn prep 3. fabrication 4. fabric prep.(handling, singeing, desizing, cleaning, scouring,bio-polishing) 5. whitening 6. alternate prep steps (merc., amoniating) 7. coloring 8. finishing 9. drying 10. reworking
4 categories for special purpose finishes
1. stabilization- shrinkage control 2. shape retention finishes 3. appearance retention finishes 4. comfort-related finishes
steps for durable press
1. treated with resin and steamed 2. pressed and dryed 3. item is cured or baked
important agencies
EPA- clean air and water acts FTC- labels and fair trade practices OSHA- occupational safety and health admin., worker conditions and consumer safety
standard life of a fabric
according to industry- 1 yr
dye classifications
acid- bright natural- plant, animal, or mineral sources reactive- all cellulose
ammoniating finish
alternative to mercerization, uses weak ammonium solution at high temp- less expensive and more environmentally sustainable
padding machine
applies dyes and finishing chemicals in either liquid or paste form to a fabric between two padding rolls
methods of dyeing
batch- textile circulated through dye bath package- dye forced through the textiles combination- both textile and dye bath are circulated
resist (pattern dyeing)
batik- hand process using hot wax tie-dye- hand process in which areas of fabric or yarn are wrapped with thread or string ikat- yarn is tied, dyed, then woven
other additives
bleach, fabric softeners, disinfectant,
renewable finish
can be applied by consumers or reapplied by dry-cleaners
permanent care labeling act 1972
care instructions required
drape and its types
changes the way a fabric hangs over a 3d shape can be additive or subtractive - transparent and crisp -burned-out -sizing -weighting
detergent
chemical compound specially formulated to remove soil or other materials from fabric
special purpose finishes
chemical finishes that are applies to fabrics to enhance performance for specific end uses- add value and cost to a fabric
printing
color designs produced on fabrics by printing with pigments or dyes in paste form or by positioning pigments or dyes on the fabric with specially designed machines **used to add colors in localized areas only
color problems
color fastness- influenced by chemical nature of fibers, nature of dyes and pigments, penetration of dyes into fabric, fixation of dyes or pigments on or in the fibers -bleeding, crocking, migration, tender, frosting, out-of register, off-grain
direct printing
color is applied directly to the fabric in the pattern and location desired in the finished fabric --> most common is screen printing -block printing, - expensive and slow, oldest, -direct-roller printing- roller is etched with design -warp printing- warp yarns are printed before weaving (watery color) -discharge printing- printed with discharge (color removing) paste
bleeding
color loss in water
frosting
colored portion of fibers or yarns are abrading
dyes
complex organic compound that is used to add color to materials by binding with them chemically bonds with molecules inside fiber great color strength
color theory
complex phenomenon that combines the physics of light, chemistry of colored objects, biology of the eye, behavioral sciences behind the meaning of color, and aesthetics -metamerism- 2 colors match under one light source, but not in another -bezold effect- two or more colors merge to form a new color -color measurement- process of assigning numerical values to a color
developments in dyeing and printing
computer advancements, more economical, less down time, combining of dyeing and printing, smart textiles
level
describes color that looks the same throughout a product
environmental impact from care
dry cleaning chemicals phosphate builders produce "dead lakes" detergents energy and water use
color fastness
dyes and prints that do not shift hue or fade when exposed to light and other environmental factors that do not move onto other fabrics during storage, use, processing, or care
mill-finished fabrics
fabrics that are sold and used without further finishing
gray goods
fabrics that have been produced but have received no wet or dry finishing operations
stages that dyeing can be done
fiber- mass pigmentation yarn- less costly than than fiber dyeing piece- solid colors least expensive --cross or union dyeing product
burned-out
finish produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different genetic fibers, one fiber is dissolved
aesthetic finishes
finish that changes the appearance and/or hand of the fabric an applied quicker and less expensive than structural design - can be either additive (chemical added to produce texture, embossed designs, and abrasion resistance) or subtractive (something removed from the fabric during finishing) -quicker and less expensive than structural design
safety related finishes
flame retardant- made retardant with flame resistant fibers, fiber modifications that are retardant, or finishes light reflecting,liquid barrier
types of innovation in finishing methods
foam finishing computerized controls- labor, high quality, control strength and temp. solvent finishing combo of steps- less time involved
colorant
general term describing materials that are used to add color to a fabric
types of luster finishes
glazed, cire, plasticize, moire, schreiner, embossed
regular rayon has
has high relaxation, moderate progressive
shape retention
has to do with the wrinkling of the fabric wrinkle-free- resin cross links give molecules a better bond durable press- items that retain their shape and a pressed appearance even after many uses, washings, and tumble drys permanent press
converted or finished goods
have received wet or dry finishing treatments
cotton, flax, lyocell, hwm rayon
have relaxation shrinkage, a little progressive
heat set synthetics
have relaxation shrinkage, no progressive
soil removal
heat, agitation, detergent
pigments
insoluble color particles that are held on the surface of a fabric by a binding agent easier and more economical method inorganic fewer sustainability issues than dye newer
finishes to reduce relaxation shrinkage
knit- yarns return back to their original shape- minimized in finishing by overfeeding between sets of rollers woven- fabric gets crimp when it becomes wet- process called compression takes tension off the fabric and relaxes it
permanent finish
lasts the life of the item
temporary finish
lasts until the item is washed or dry-cleaned
resin
many uses- makes more durable- strengthens bonds to reduce shrinkage and abrasion and swelling and wrinkling
durable finish
may last for the life of the product, but its effectiveness dimishes with use or age
stabilization
means a fabric retains its original size and shape during use and care
wool has
moderate relaxation, high progressive
texture and hand finishes
modify texture, add components, or alter feel of fabric embossed -3d raised pattern pleated puckered- creates dissolved or swelled area flocking- fine natural or synthetic fiber is applied after base has been produced- can imitate extra yarn fabrics or pile fabrics embroidered- yarns stitched on sheared- surface cut to remove loose ends brushed napped- makes it fuzzy and soft beetled- traditional to linen fabric, increases luster through pressure and flattening emerizing- rushing or abrading surface to weaken it abrasive, chemical, or enzyme washes- decrease piling and make fabric softer, (chemicals= alkalis, oxidizing agents) (enzymes= celluase- dissolves part of the cellulose molecule) silk-boil off- gives softer hand, removes sericin and creates looser structure caustic treatment- dissolve a portion of chemicals, gives greater mobility, but loss of strength hand-builders- soften the fabric hand
relaxation shrinkage
occurs during washing, steam pressing, or dry cleaning and during the first care cycle (cotton, flax, rayon)
progressive shrinkage
often continues at smaller rates for several additional care cycles
cross dyeing
piece dyeing of fabrics, made of fibers from different generic groups (protein and cellulose) or by combining acid-dyeable and basic dyeable fibers of the same generic group - gives a yarn or fiber dyed appearance, blend= color effect
crocking
problem of transfer of color through abrasion **in pigment
mercerization
process of treating a cellulosic fabric or yarn with an alkali and makes it more absorbent, stronger, and lustrous
union dyeing
produces a finished fabric in a solid color
embossing finish
produces either flat or raised designs on a fabric, used on heat sensitive fibers because it produces a durable, washable pattern
pollution prevention act of 1990
recycling, reduction, treatment of toxic chemicals
flammable fabrics act 1953
reg apparel tests and kids pjs for 3 sec
types of biological finishes
rot-proof, mildew-proof, bug-proof, antibacterial, anti-microbial
resist printing
screen printing (flat- commercially for large fabrics or rotary screen- more economical and for shorter fabrics) or stencil printing
migration
shifting of color to the surrounding area or to an adjacent surface
production matching probs
side to center, side to side, end to end
tentering
skew or bow can be added, applies lengthwise or crosswise tension to the fabric while it dries, eliminates off-grain problems
appearance retention finishes include
soil and stain resistant- make fabric more hydrophilic-attraction to water makes soil more likely to repel backing- reduce heat transfer, alter fabric appearance, lock yarns into place, minimize air and water permeability abrasion resistant- resin fixes fibers more firmly into place anti-slip- used on low thread count fabrics fume fading light stabilizing pile resistant anti-yellowing- to prevent storage yellowing
water-bath finishing
standard finishing, chemical placed into solution and padded onto fabric by immersing fabric in bath
wrinkle recovery theory
strong hydrogen cross-links return molecules to their original shape, stronger links are less likely to wrinkle
synthetic detergents
surfactants- vigorous soil removing agents, ** don't form insoluble curd like soap builders- soften water and add alkalinity to the solution- phosphates, carbonates, citrates, and silicates enzymes anti-fading agents
soil resistant finishes were created as a result of
tendency of durable press finishes to pick up soil
TFPIA 1960
textile fiber products identification act 1960- fiber content, company, country of origin
soap
the salt of a long fatty acid chain, reacts with water and forms an insoluble curd- less effective than detergent
finishes to reduce progressive shrinkage
thermoplastics- heat set wool- halogenation/ coat surface with polyamide film rayon- resin prevents swelling and stretching
off grain
twisted seams and uneven seams
out of register
two colors of a print overlap eachother or do not meet
sizing
type of drape finishing where the fabric is immersed in a mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine, and softeners to add or control fabric body adds stiffness, weight, and body to a fabric
weighting
type of drape finishing, uses a metallic salt plant and metallic salts add fiber volume, luster, and hand
transparent and crisp
type of drape finishing- parchmentizing- treatment with sulfuric acid, timing necessary to avoid tendering (weakening of the fabric) effects- all-over, localized, or plisse
moire
type of luster finish that gives a fabric wood grain or watermarked appearance , used for forma apparel and interior
schriener
type of luster finish that gives a more soft luster **temporary finish- removed by first washing needs resin
plasticized finish
type of luster finish that is a very thin layer of polymer added to a dyed fabric, slicker hand- used for soil-resistance and water-repellance
cire finish
type of luster finish that is similar to glazed but uses hot rollers, gives apparel a "wet" look or high gloss
glazed luster
type of luster finish that uses friction calendaring
foam finishing
type of new finishing that uses less water, time, energy, cleaning, but not as evenly distributed
comfort related finish
type of special finish anti-static- increase water absorbency, improve surface conductivity, neutralizing electrostatic charge by developing an opposite water absorbent water resistant- calendaring makes spaces between fibers smaller (fluorocarbons, wax emulsions, metallic soaps, surface active agents) fabric softeners (hand builders)- counteracts harsh hand of resin phase change- reduce heat flow through a fabric, insulate, absorb or release heat as they go through a phase change
biological control finishes
type of special finish that keeps bugs away and prevents growth of bacteria, mold, mildew, rot
flourocarbons
used as a water and oil repellent finish