textiles test 5- finishes and dyes

sustainabiitiy improvements of finishing

-foam finishing and plasma save water -use of better chemicals (enzymes) -working on recycling water -amoniating finish instead of mercerization EPA and clean water act

legal aspects

1. fair trade practices 2. information labeling 3. worker safety 4. environmental protection

steps in finishing a fabric

1. fiber/yarn processing 2. yarn prep 3. fabrication 4. fabric prep.(handling, singeing, desizing, cleaning, scouring,bio-polishing) 5. whitening 6. alternate prep steps (merc., amoniating) 7. coloring 8. finishing 9. drying 10. reworking

4 categories for special purpose finishes

1. stabilization- shrinkage control 2. shape retention finishes 3. appearance retention finishes 4. comfort-related finishes

steps for durable press

1. treated with resin and steamed 2. pressed and dryed 3. item is cured or baked

important agencies

EPA- clean air and water acts FTC- labels and fair trade practices OSHA- occupational safety and health admin., worker conditions and consumer safety

standard life of a fabric

according to industry- 1 yr

dye classifications

acid- bright natural- plant, animal, or mineral sources reactive- all cellulose

ammoniating finish

alternative to mercerization, uses weak ammonium solution at high temp- less expensive and more environmentally sustainable

padding machine

applies dyes and finishing chemicals in either liquid or paste form to a fabric between two padding rolls

methods of dyeing

batch- textile circulated through dye bath package- dye forced through the textiles combination- both textile and dye bath are circulated

resist (pattern dyeing)

batik- hand process using hot wax tie-dye- hand process in which areas of fabric or yarn are wrapped with thread or string ikat- yarn is tied, dyed, then woven

other additives

bleach, fabric softeners, disinfectant,

renewable finish

can be applied by consumers or reapplied by dry-cleaners

permanent care labeling act 1972

care instructions required

drape and its types

changes the way a fabric hangs over a 3d shape can be additive or subtractive - transparent and crisp -burned-out -sizing -weighting

detergent

chemical compound specially formulated to remove soil or other materials from fabric

special purpose finishes

chemical finishes that are applies to fabrics to enhance performance for specific end uses- add value and cost to a fabric

printing

color designs produced on fabrics by printing with pigments or dyes in paste form or by positioning pigments or dyes on the fabric with specially designed machines **used to add colors in localized areas only

color problems

color fastness- influenced by chemical nature of fibers, nature of dyes and pigments, penetration of dyes into fabric, fixation of dyes or pigments on or in the fibers -bleeding, crocking, migration, tender, frosting, out-of register, off-grain

direct printing

color is applied directly to the fabric in the pattern and location desired in the finished fabric --> most common is screen printing -block printing, - expensive and slow, oldest, -direct-roller printing- roller is etched with design -warp printing- warp yarns are printed before weaving (watery color) -discharge printing- printed with discharge (color removing) paste

bleeding

color loss in water

frosting

colored portion of fibers or yarns are abrading

dyes

complex organic compound that is used to add color to materials by binding with them chemically bonds with molecules inside fiber great color strength

color theory

complex phenomenon that combines the physics of light, chemistry of colored objects, biology of the eye, behavioral sciences behind the meaning of color, and aesthetics -metamerism- 2 colors match under one light source, but not in another -bezold effect- two or more colors merge to form a new color -color measurement- process of assigning numerical values to a color

developments in dyeing and printing

computer advancements, more economical, less down time, combining of dyeing and printing, smart textiles

level

describes color that looks the same throughout a product

environmental impact from care

dry cleaning chemicals phosphate builders produce "dead lakes" detergents energy and water use

color fastness

dyes and prints that do not shift hue or fade when exposed to light and other environmental factors that do not move onto other fabrics during storage, use, processing, or care

mill-finished fabrics

fabrics that are sold and used without further finishing

gray goods

fabrics that have been produced but have received no wet or dry finishing operations

stages that dyeing can be done

fiber- mass pigmentation yarn- less costly than than fiber dyeing piece- solid colors least expensive --cross or union dyeing product

burned-out

finish produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different genetic fibers, one fiber is dissolved

aesthetic finishes

finish that changes the appearance and/or hand of the fabric an applied quicker and less expensive than structural design - can be either additive (chemical added to produce texture, embossed designs, and abrasion resistance) or subtractive (something removed from the fabric during finishing) -quicker and less expensive than structural design

safety related finishes

flame retardant- made retardant with flame resistant fibers, fiber modifications that are retardant, or finishes light reflecting,liquid barrier

types of innovation in finishing methods

foam finishing computerized controls- labor, high quality, control strength and temp. solvent finishing combo of steps- less time involved

colorant

general term describing materials that are used to add color to a fabric

types of luster finishes

glazed, cire, plasticize, moire, schreiner, embossed

regular rayon has

has high relaxation, moderate progressive

shape retention

has to do with the wrinkling of the fabric wrinkle-free- resin cross links give molecules a better bond durable press- items that retain their shape and a pressed appearance even after many uses, washings, and tumble drys permanent press

converted or finished goods

have received wet or dry finishing treatments

cotton, flax, lyocell, hwm rayon

have relaxation shrinkage, a little progressive

heat set synthetics

have relaxation shrinkage, no progressive

soil removal

heat, agitation, detergent

pigments

insoluble color particles that are held on the surface of a fabric by a binding agent easier and more economical method inorganic fewer sustainability issues than dye newer

finishes to reduce relaxation shrinkage

knit- yarns return back to their original shape- minimized in finishing by overfeeding between sets of rollers woven- fabric gets crimp when it becomes wet- process called compression takes tension off the fabric and relaxes it

permanent finish

lasts the life of the item

temporary finish

lasts until the item is washed or dry-cleaned

resin

many uses- makes more durable- strengthens bonds to reduce shrinkage and abrasion and swelling and wrinkling

durable finish

may last for the life of the product, but its effectiveness dimishes with use or age

stabilization

means a fabric retains its original size and shape during use and care

wool has

moderate relaxation, high progressive

texture and hand finishes

modify texture, add components, or alter feel of fabric embossed -3d raised pattern pleated puckered- creates dissolved or swelled area flocking- fine natural or synthetic fiber is applied after base has been produced- can imitate extra yarn fabrics or pile fabrics embroidered- yarns stitched on sheared- surface cut to remove loose ends brushed napped- makes it fuzzy and soft beetled- traditional to linen fabric, increases luster through pressure and flattening emerizing- rushing or abrading surface to weaken it abrasive, chemical, or enzyme washes- decrease piling and make fabric softer, (chemicals= alkalis, oxidizing agents) (enzymes= celluase- dissolves part of the cellulose molecule) silk-boil off- gives softer hand, removes sericin and creates looser structure caustic treatment- dissolve a portion of chemicals, gives greater mobility, but loss of strength hand-builders- soften the fabric hand

relaxation shrinkage

occurs during washing, steam pressing, or dry cleaning and during the first care cycle (cotton, flax, rayon)

progressive shrinkage

often continues at smaller rates for several additional care cycles

cross dyeing

piece dyeing of fabrics, made of fibers from different generic groups (protein and cellulose) or by combining acid-dyeable and basic dyeable fibers of the same generic group - gives a yarn or fiber dyed appearance, blend= color effect

crocking

problem of transfer of color through abrasion **in pigment

mercerization

process of treating a cellulosic fabric or yarn with an alkali and makes it more absorbent, stronger, and lustrous

union dyeing

produces a finished fabric in a solid color

embossing finish

produces either flat or raised designs on a fabric, used on heat sensitive fibers because it produces a durable, washable pattern

pollution prevention act of 1990

recycling, reduction, treatment of toxic chemicals

flammable fabrics act 1953

reg apparel tests and kids pjs for 3 sec

types of biological finishes

rot-proof, mildew-proof, bug-proof, antibacterial, anti-microbial

resist printing

screen printing (flat- commercially for large fabrics or rotary screen- more economical and for shorter fabrics) or stencil printing

migration

shifting of color to the surrounding area or to an adjacent surface

production matching probs

side to center, side to side, end to end

tentering

skew or bow can be added, applies lengthwise or crosswise tension to the fabric while it dries, eliminates off-grain problems

appearance retention finishes include

soil and stain resistant- make fabric more hydrophilic-attraction to water makes soil more likely to repel backing- reduce heat transfer, alter fabric appearance, lock yarns into place, minimize air and water permeability abrasion resistant- resin fixes fibers more firmly into place anti-slip- used on low thread count fabrics fume fading light stabilizing pile resistant anti-yellowing- to prevent storage yellowing

water-bath finishing

standard finishing, chemical placed into solution and padded onto fabric by immersing fabric in bath

wrinkle recovery theory

strong hydrogen cross-links return molecules to their original shape, stronger links are less likely to wrinkle

synthetic detergents

surfactants- vigorous soil removing agents, ** don't form insoluble curd like soap builders- soften water and add alkalinity to the solution- phosphates, carbonates, citrates, and silicates enzymes anti-fading agents

soil resistant finishes were created as a result of

tendency of durable press finishes to pick up soil

TFPIA 1960

textile fiber products identification act 1960- fiber content, company, country of origin

soap

the salt of a long fatty acid chain, reacts with water and forms an insoluble curd- less effective than detergent

finishes to reduce progressive shrinkage

thermoplastics- heat set wool- halogenation/ coat surface with polyamide film rayon- resin prevents swelling and stretching

off grain

twisted seams and uneven seams

out of register

two colors of a print overlap eachother or do not meet

sizing

type of drape finishing where the fabric is immersed in a mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine, and softeners to add or control fabric body adds stiffness, weight, and body to a fabric

weighting

type of drape finishing, uses a metallic salt plant and metallic salts add fiber volume, luster, and hand

transparent and crisp

type of drape finishing- parchmentizing- treatment with sulfuric acid, timing necessary to avoid tendering (weakening of the fabric) effects- all-over, localized, or plisse

moire

type of luster finish that gives a fabric wood grain or watermarked appearance , used for forma apparel and interior

schriener

type of luster finish that gives a more soft luster **temporary finish- removed by first washing needs resin

plasticized finish

type of luster finish that is a very thin layer of polymer added to a dyed fabric, slicker hand- used for soil-resistance and water-repellance

cire finish

type of luster finish that is similar to glazed but uses hot rollers, gives apparel a "wet" look or high gloss

glazed luster

type of luster finish that uses friction calendaring

foam finishing

type of new finishing that uses less water, time, energy, cleaning, but not as evenly distributed

comfort related finish

type of special finish anti-static- increase water absorbency, improve surface conductivity, neutralizing electrostatic charge by developing an opposite water absorbent water resistant- calendaring makes spaces between fibers smaller (fluorocarbons, wax emulsions, metallic soaps, surface active agents) fabric softeners (hand builders)- counteracts harsh hand of resin phase change- reduce heat flow through a fabric, insulate, absorb or release heat as they go through a phase change

biological control finishes

type of special finish that keeps bugs away and prevents growth of bacteria, mold, mildew, rot

flourocarbons

used as a water and oil repellent finish