Chapter 13: Mortuary Cosmetology.

Liquid lip colors

"lip tint"; Often in containers resembling nail polish; applied in a similar manner with a built-in brush on the cap, and care must be taken to avoid running. ---> Color = usually less vivid after the cosmetic dries.

foundation

-a complexion cosmetic that acts as a base for additional colored cosmetic, it conceals minor imperfections, may act as a moisturizer ---->comes in liquid, cake powder, cream in a jar, cream on a stick

Blush types

-liquid and creams most common type -cake powder -liquid powder

- White light - Colored lights

2 main types of lighting that affect cosmetics and the deceased:

powder: ---> liquid: ---> cream: --->

3 main types of cosmetics:

-Dark brown -yellow -red -white

4 cosmetics colors needed to reproduce the color of skin and their variations:

-age: ---> Can lead to duller and grayer complexion -environmental conditions (climate): ---> amount of sunshine. -health: ---> Abnormal complexion coloring can be the result of diseases like yellowing from jaundice or bronze from Addison's disease. -genetics: ---> - Postmortem conditions: ---> Decomp (green) ---> Postmortem stain (purple)

4 factors that that affect the normal complexion of each individual

- Spreading - Blending - Stipple - Lip - Powder

5 Main categories of brushes:

Albinism

A complete absence of melanin due to hereditary; affects skin, hair, and eyes.

Melanin

A pigment in the epidermis and hair which ranges in color from brown to brown-black. ---> The determinative pigment of all races.

CREAM COSMETICS

A semi-solid consistency; Tend to be either TRANSLUCENT (thin) or OPAQUE (thick). --> A mixture of pigment powder, vehicle(s), and other ingredients. - Benefits: -----> ease of blending -----> ability to mix and adhere to wax ------> inhibition of dehydration ------> can properly conceal discolorations. - CONS: ------> can become matted to facial hair. ------> rubbed off easily/ transfers. ------> can look cakey. - APPLICATION: ------> stippling ------> sponging.

Powder atomizer

A tool comprised of a reservoir (filled with powder), a nozzle, and a bulb. ---> when the bulb is squeezed it forces air and pulls powder from the reservoir.

POWER COSMETICS

A type of cosmetic medium composed of fine particle of ground pigment that are either loose or compressed. ---> Particle = commonly ground and mixed with chalk, zinc oxide, talcum, or titanium oxide. - Main purpose: ----> to set and reduce sheen. ----> reduce moist appearance. - APPLICATION: -----> powder brush -----> Puffed w/ atomizer.

Freckles

An uneven distribution of melanin; common in children and tend to fade with age in the absence of constant sunlight exposure.

Colorant

Any substance used to impart color to an object.

Addison's Disease

Bronze discoloration

Lip brushes

Brushes that are small in size and used to apply either mortuary lip color or consumer lipstick.

Powder brushes

Brushes used either dependently or independently or in conjunction with an atomizer to apply powder.

Stipple brushes

Brushes used to apply thick cream cosmetics. ---> Use light stippling motion to push media into the pores. ---> On wax this motion recreates the effect of pores on human skin.

Blending brushes

Brushes used to blend diff/ shades of cosmetic or different types of cosmetics into one another.

Freckles: ---> An uneven distribution of melanin; common in children and tend to fade with age in the absence of constant sunlight exposure. Tanning: ---> An increase in pigment cells (melanin) to protect the deep tissues from the sun's UV rays; physiological reaction. Albinism: ---> A complete absence of melanin due to hereditary; affects skin, hair, and eyes. Vitiligo: ---> Patches of skin that are free of melanin; may affect hair and/ or eyes as well. Age/Liver Spots: ---> Small spots of increased melanin pigmentation common in older adults; found on areas most exposed to the sun like hands, forearms, shoulders, etc.

Characteristics caused by Melanin:

External Methods

Color imparted by applying cosmetics to the viewing areas (face, hands, etc.)

Internal methods

Color imparted to the skin tissue through the use of ACTIVE DYES in embalming solution. ---> Creates the base for restoration. ---> Can create splotchy coloring due to uneven distribution of fluid in the tissues.

- Internal methods. - External methods

Color methods:

Airbrush cosmetics

Cosmetics sprayed from a pressurized atomizer, normally with electric power. ---> works well for large discolorations.

1.) clean, wash, shave, (get authorization for minimal prep), set features. 2.) apply cosmetics: ----> liquids = may settle into crevices. ----> creams = stippling may be difficult bcuz tissues are not firmed. ----> Aerosols and airbrushing = best bcuz they are not affected by flaccidity and can mask vascular discolorations. 3.) Shadow/ highlight 4.) warm color areas. 5.) set with powder.

Cosmetizing unembalmed remains:

Swarthy complexion

Dark colored complexion associated with the tropical sun.

Red object: ---> Darkens Orange object: ---> Darkens greatly Yellow object: ---> turns orchid Green object: ---> lightens Blue object: ---> turns to pale blue Violet object: ---> turns orchid

Effects of BLUE lighting on colored objects:

Red object: ---> fades out Orange object: ---> Lightens Yellow object: ---> turns white Green object: ---> darkens greatly Blue object: ---> darkens to gray Violet object: ---> darkens to black

Effects of RED lighting on colored objects:

-Replacing the color lost in death and disease. - Replacing any color lost through embalming. - Compensating for the effect of lighting. - Presenting a well-groomed appearance. - Creating a memory picture for the family and friends. - Accenting or de-emphasizing parts of the face if needed. - Concealing discolorations.

Examples of desired results:

Sallow complexion

Excess carotene, complexion becomes sickly and yellow-ish.

LIQUID COSMETICS

Fluid, non-solid colerants in which pigments are dissolved or suspended in a vehicle, or combination of vehicles. ---> Tend to be TRANSLUCENT or TRANSPARENT (tint). ---> Most flow easily and have an evaporating vehicle. - PROS: ------> dry after evaporation of the vehicle. -----> Can be applied around face hairs. ------> Do not generally cling to hair or colorize it. - CONS: ------> not suited for concealing discolorations. ------> Stain clothing. ------> not compatible with wax. ------> collect on shallow areas or crevices of the face.

decomposition

Green discoloration

Hemoglobin

Known as the red pigment of the skin, NOT a true skin pigment. ---> The iron containing protein in the blood giving blood its red color. ---> apparent esp. in the superficial capillaries.

Colored light

Lighting produced by INCANDESCENT bulbs; This type of lighting = softer and warmer than white lighting. ---> well suited for viewings. ---> They give color to the deceased and enhance the appearance of cosmetics. ---> used in chapels. - Cosmetic lights: -----> Colored incandescent bulbs arranged in a way that enhances the decedent, casket, clothing and flowers. -------> Best used parallel to the casket ------> Usually blue/ red/pink. ------> these lights work together by way of additive method of lighting.

-can look pasty -can color hair -clumps -rubs off easily -stains clothing -needs powder application to dry

Opaque Cream Cosmetics: CONS

-many help prevent dehydration -choice of thickness, light or heavy -covers discolorations -covers wax -mixes with wax

Opaque Cream Cosmetics: PROS

1.) wash, dry, (shaved and emb.). 2.) foundation 3.) Highlight and shadow (contour/ corrective shaping. 4.) Apply warm colors to face and hands. 5.) lip color. 6.) powder/set.

Order of cosmetizing:

Vitiligo

Patches of skin that are free of melanin; may affect hair and/ or eyes as well.

Cream lip colors

Resemble OPAUE cream cosmetics but in much smaller containers and diff/ colors for the lips. ---> Applied using small lip brush.

Age (liver) spots

Small spots of increased melanin pigmentation common in older adults; found on areas most exposed to the sun like hands, forearms, shoulders, etc.

Aersols

Solutions that are dispensed as a mist directly from the container. ---> works well for large discolorations.

- Melanin - Carotene - Hemoglobin

The 3 pigments that combine internally to create skin color:

Carotene

The yellowish pigment of the skin, NOT a dominant skin pigment.. ---> Obtained through vegetables and stored in adipose tissue cells. ---> the skin may become more translucent and allow the yellow color to appear more abundant. ---> Extreme cases: The complexion may become a sickly, yellow-ish color = SALLOW complexion.

-does not cover discoloration -does not cover wax well --limited color choice -dehydrating if alcohol based -can collect in deep pores and appear darker than skin

Transparent Liquid Cosmetics: CONS

-does not cake or clump on skin or hair -does not rub off easily -does not give pasty appearance -dries quickly

Transparent Liquid Cosmetics: PROS

Spreading brushes

USed to spread cosmetics (cream/liquid); Smoother, less coarse brush.

- Forehead - Cheeks - Tip and wings of the nose - Mucous membranes - Chin - Ears - Knuckles of finger. - Fingernails/ cuticles.

Warm color areas to cosmetize:

OPAQUE CREAM (thick). ----> avoid using liquid cosmetics bcuz their translucent or transparent appearance will allow discolorations to remain visible.

What type of cosmetic should you use for extravascular discolorations if bleaching did not work well??

jaundice

Yellow to Greenish discoloration

eyebrow pencil

a cosmetic in soft, solid, or powdered form applied to give color to the eyebrows

Gray discoloration

arterial injection fluid mixed with hemoglobin

Elderly (blush)

below the frontal check bone, faint and barely visible

Blush-Light complexions

blush composed of muted pink with a small amount of beige coloring

All ages (blush)

chin, ear, forehead, hand, adult cheeks

transparent: ---> Light rays pass through, anything behind or beyond can be directly seen. translucent: ---> Light may pass through but diffusion of distinct images occurs, only somewhat transparent. opaque: ---> No light passes through, neither transparent nor translucent.

classification of cosmetics:

eye shadow

colored cosmetic usually in powdered form applied to the upper eyelid

Florid complexion

complexion Flushed with red though not as vivid as ruddy

ruddy complexion

complexion with healthy reddish color, can be very vivid.

eyeliner

cosmetic in liquid, cake, or pencil form applied as a line where the eyelashes join the eyelid

mascara

cosmetic used to darken the eyelashes

lip color

cosmetics that match mucous membrane of the lips to reproduce a natural coloration

Blush-Olive and Yellow complexions

deeper brown based shades with red or plum

Yellow-brown discoloration

dehydration

young child (blush)

front of cheek below the center of the eye

older children (blush)

halfway between the center of the eye and the end of the line of closure

Transparent

having the property of transmitting rays of light through its substance so that a body situated beyond or behind it can distinctly seen (liquid, cream, powder) ---> Light rays pass through, anything behind or beyond can be directly seen.

white light

light produced by fluorescent bulbs as well as the sun. - fluorescent light: -----> ideal for prep room ------> drowns out cosmetics and makes deceased appear pale. - Sunlight: -----> lessens the color of cosmetics.

Spray cosmetics

new way of cosmetizing using spray applicator with compressor and hand nozzle

Opaque

not transplant or translucent, not allowing light to pass through, a concealing cosmetic, (liquid, cream) ---> No light passes through, neither transparent nor translucent.

young to middle aged adult (blush)

point below the end of the line of eye closure

Purple discoloration

post mortem stain, contusion, hospital markings

Blush-Dark complexions

rich colors like cinnamon, nutmeg, or reddish-brown

Translucent

somewhat transparent, transmitting light but not causing sufficient or eliminate perception of distinct images (liquid, cream, powder) ---> Light may pass through but diffusion of distinct images occurs, only somewhat transparent.

blood discolorations

the escape of blood into the intercellular spaces due to trauma or hypostasis

Funeral lighting

the quality and quantity of illumination used for presentation of casketed remains

skin color is...

the result of amount of melanin the cells produce

Cosmetology

the study of beautifying and improving the complexion, skin, hair, and nails of the living.

Mortuary Cosmetology

the study of the materials and techniques of applying colorants to simulate the natural appearance of the deceased for viewing in the funeral setting

Purpose of Restorative Arts

to recreate the natural form and color on the visible parts of a body

Blush/ rouge

used to recreate a natural red color in the warm area if the skin cause by blood

Blush-Medium complexions

warmer pink with brownish tint

yellow

what color should be used to neutralize purple discolorations?