Exam 2 SG

How were married and older women distinguished from unmarried younger women in the Middle Ages?

Unmarried women wore their hair loose and uncovered

The word camicia in Italian refers to

-a mans shirt -womens chemise

According to the reading for chapter 8 [The Real Story Behind Margot Robbie's Wild Queen Elizabeth Makeup], which of the following statements about the white face makeup of Queen Elizabeth I is correct?

-ceruse, a form of powdered lead, was used to whiten the face. Its use of lead as face whitening makeup goes back to ancient Greeks, or even further to Ancient Chinese Shang Dynasty (c. 1600-1046 B.C.) -In Europe during the Renaissance, "women in both city and country used cosmetics freely' and Neck and décolletage received a coating of ceruse as well. Other whitening preparations included powdered borax and sulphur, but ceruse was the most effective. The type branded "Venetian ceruse," also called "spirits of Saturn," was "the most fashionable, expensive, and toxic skin whitener available in the sixteenth century"—so expensive that aristocracy (and royalty) were its major users. -Elizabethan women had their reasons for wishing to present a totally white face—the appearance of youth and fertility; conformity to an ideal of beauty that demanded women look like they never worked outside in the sun. -Elizabeth had smallpox in 1562, which apparently left her with tell-tale pocks (or pits) on her face. The combination of her "swarthiness," these blemishes, and the aging process (which would have been abetted by the use of the toxic lead powder) may have led her to apply yet more ceruse as time went on and her skin became more and more unsightly. That might have resulted in a clownish appearance, like Robbie's in the latter part of the new Mary Queen of Scots. -It's hard to tell for sure what Elizabeth looked like, because contemporary documents of the queen's physical appearance—be they textual reports or artistic productions—were always partially political.

Byzantine art is characterized by __ design with line and color of flowing formal decoration rather than natural description; and it is known for its glass __ which is inspired by designer __ 2014 fall/winter collection. The byzantine art is also reflected in its textile and clothing with color and embroidery which is very different which is very different from the simply draped roman __

-geometric -mosaic - -tunics

A number of other major events during the 15th century also impacted fashion and textile industry/trade. These events include the__Empire which expanded to its largest extent and controlled most of the Mediterranean coast and the Black Sea. New trade routes (navigation through ocean vs the Silk Road) to Asia and __of the new world for sources made__ the 'greatest power in Europe' with the rich silver and gold from the new world (we discussed in both chapter 7 and 8 the Spanish fashion influence). Reformation initiated by__ , revolt against the Roman Catholic church and the rise of __churches (the conflict led the exodus of skilled textile workers from France to England when we discuss chapter 8).

-ottoman -colonization -spain -martin luther -protestant

What are the factors leading to the high level development of the Florentine silk industry in the 15th century according to the study by Tognetti (2005)?

-the demographic crisis brought to Europe during the 14th century by the black plague (which killed more than 20 million people in Europe—almost one-third of the continent's population)? -the demographic crisis created labor shortages and labor cost increased -the rise of demand and consumption of silk textiles, especially among the upper classes. -the city states with strong financial foundation encouraged entrepreneurs and made the industry development possible

The use of sections of different colored fabrics in one garment

-was called mi-parti -was called parti-color -was often used in special uniforms for servants of important families

In the west, the first cultivation of silk worms and production of silk fiber was carried out by the __ through so called 'industrial espionage' by monks who returned from China via the Silk Road

Byzantines

the study "Visual art as social data: The Renaissance codpiece" by Vicary (1989) concluded that the codpiece was developed to show mens masculinity in the first half of the 16th century:

False

When the dress of the early Middle Ages is compared with the dress of ancient Greece and Rome, which of the following are the most pronounced changes in clothing:

Clothing was constructed by cutting and sewing

The blue outer garment [A] worn by the young man

Cote hardy

garnache

a long cloak with capelike sleeves, outer garment. new way of wearing a hooded cape

Which of the following statements about the wool production during the early middle ages is Not correct?

Due to technology limitation, the wool cloth produced during the early middle ages are similar in quality and price

Which of the following figure is wearing a huke?

Figure A (light pink with red stocking image)

Which of the following figure is wearing a petticoat which appeared around the mid 16th century?

Figure a(black and brown dress/tan)

which of the figures is wearing cote hardy? (more than one correct answers)

Figure c(hugging eachother) and figure d(guy wearing blue)

Phase 3 (1550-1600) fashion for men:

Narrower shoulders, gradually wider at hip. Trunk hose

Based on the appendix of Sumptuary Laws petitions and statutes from 1337-1510 of England, which of the following statement is NOT true?

Servants are required to dress the same no matter whom they work for

The outer light blue garment [B] worn by the young woman with a red cote or under tunic

Surcot or sur cote or gown

In the same reading for Chapter 7, Renaissance Fashion: The Birth of Power Dressing, author Ulinka Rublack described the origin of word 'fashion'. When did the English word 'fashion' first appear (page 2)?

The English word 'fashion' came from the Latin word for 'making'. It was first used c.1550 to refer to a temporary mode of dress in the physician Andrew Boorde's Book of Knowledge.

Leg bandages (gaiters) for men during the early middle ages are originated from:

The barbarians

During the Italian Renaissance of the 15th century, paintings were one of the major sources of information from which we can learn about fashion. Which of the following statements about the paintings is NOT correct?

The dresses depicted in the paintings tell us how they dress in everyday day life during the Renaissance period.

The white cloth strip [D] hanging from the woman's blue cote hardy sleeve

Tippets

Based on the video, Louie XIV kept all the nobles at his court busy with power dressing and getting his attention so that they didn't have time and resources to engaging in activities against him.

True

Phase 2 (1515-1550) fashion for men:

Wide, full, puffs, slashes, and panes

Which textile industry is the main economic engine of England before the 17th century?

Wool

bliaut

a 12th Century garment worn by upperclass men and women, was more complex in cut and fit than earlier garments

hennin

a cone shaped headdress in the late middle ages, worn by female European nobilities in Burgundy, France, & English Court, but not in Italy.

The green and red headdress [C] worn by the two young men

chaperons

The outer garment [A] worn by the two women

cote hardy

During Italian Renaissance, men wore doublets, jackets, houppelandes, hukes, hose and cape. The top garment shown in the image below is called

doublet

The blue top [B] worn by the men with beard

doublet

Which of the following statements about the capital city of Byzantine Empire is NOT true? a. it is located in present day Istanbul of Turkey b. It was established by Roman Emperor Constantine, the first Christian Emperor c. Its location played a very role in connecting and controlling the trade between the East and the West d. The city was the richest and most developed in the earlier middle ages as demonstrated by the Hagia Sofia e. The capital city was conquered in 1453 by the Ottoman f. None of the above

f. None of the above

Stockings were clothing items for the well to-dos in the 16th and peasants couldnt afford such items

false

The study "Visual art as social data: The Renaissance codpiece"by Vicary (1989) concluded that the codpiece was developed to show men's masculinity in the first half of 16th century (lecture content)

false

Please describe and explain when fashion started to appear and what are the contributing factors or why?

fashion began as a social phenomenon

which figure is wearing a farthingale that is popular during the last phase of the 16th century women's fashion in Europe?

figure c (women holding fan)

herigaut

full garment with long, wide sleeves and a slit below the shoulder in front through which the arm could be slipped, leaving the long, full sleeve hanging behind

Spanish costume traditions deviated from major fashion trends, as upper class Spanish women retained wide farthingale-like skirts called:

guardinfante

The word "chopines" means:

high, platform-soled shoes

Spain became a major influence in both politics and fashions in the 16th century because

it gained enormous wealth as a result of Columbus' voyage to the New World

The red outer garment [C] worn by the young men on the right

jacket

Braies

linen undergarments worn by men in the middle ages for which the modern term breeches derives

pourpoint

mens garment is a close fit, padded, and buttoned front; originated as military dress and sleeveless first, the sleeved version

In the reading for Chapter 7, Renaissance Fashion: The Birth of Power Dressing, author Ulinka Rublack looks at why the Renaissance was a turning point in people's attitudes to clothes and their appearance. Which of the following factors is Not mentioned by the author?

none of the above

In the same reading (Renaissance Fashion: The Birth of Power Dressing), the author described how Matthäus Schwarz, a 29-year-old chief accountant for the mighty Fugger family of merchants from Augsburg, cared and recorded his appearances since 1526 till his old age .. which is of the following statement is NOT true about Matthäus Schwarz

none of the above

The image above of 15th century England scene depicts men with 'tights' or leggings' (hose) showing their buttocks. This kind of dress indicates

none of the above

During the second half of the 16th century, slashing became fashionable and appeared in both men's and women's clothing through Europe (we discussed this in both chapter 7 and 8). In chapter 8, we learned besides slashing, pinking and snip were also often applied to garments. How will you identify the cut decoration on the same garment?

pinking

The shoes [D] worn by both of the men and women

pouleines

The Fashion Revolution during the early 14th century refers to the fashion changes characterized by __which make the fitted look with freedom of movement possible.

set-in sleeves and multiple buttons used in clothing construction

Phase 1 (1500-1515) fashion for men:

similar to late middle ages in components. Shoes now round at the toe

The development of the fashion for wide, stiff neck ruffs came about, in part, because

skills for making lace developed rapidly during the 16th century

Italian styles for men in the 16th century were very much influenced by ___ and one of the example is the popularity of black embroidery on white fabric background

spanish styles

Based on the lecture content of chapter 8, which item is recognized by scholars as the first mass fashion consumption product which nobles, middle class and also peasants all wore during the 16th century.

stocking

The slashed decorations with contrasting fabric linings underneath are supposed to have originated

with the Swiss army