MARS CH.10
free
Waves that move independently of the wind are called _______________ waves.
diffraction
Waves that move through narrow openings in barriers will be ____________________________________.
F
Waves transport large volumes of water across great distances.
energy
Group speed is the speed of ___________________ transport.
wave trains
Groups of fast moving waves traveling in packets are called ______________ ___________________.
C
A wave with a period of 10 s and a wavelength of 130 m will travel at a velocity of a. 1300 m/s. b. 130 m/s. c. 13 m/s. d. 1.3 m/s. e. you can't tell from this information.
D
In a wave train a. the individual wave crests move toward the back of the group. b. the individual wave crests move toward the front of the group. c. the train carries the energy of the waves. d. b and c above. e. a and c above.
E
In the storm area, the surface is a jumble of confused waves called a _______. a. storm center b. interference pattern c. swell d. surf zone e. sea
E
Areas susceptible to rip currents can be recognized by a. regions of smaller wave heights in the surf zone. b. turbid water moving rapidly away from shore. c. ridges of sand perpendicular to the beach. d. all of the above. e. a and b above.
E
As a wave enters shallow water a. it will slow down. b. its steepness will increase. c. its wavelength will decrease. d. its period will remain the same
A
As a wave trough approaches, surface water particles a. fall and move backward. b. fall and move forward. c. rise above the equilibrium surface level. d. a and c above. e. b and c above.
D
At a depth of _________ , the orbital motion in a deep-water wave has decreased to almost zero. a. twice the amplitude b. half the height c. one-quarter the wavelength d. half the wavelength e. one-third the height
T
Capillary waves grow into gravity waves as more energy is added by the wind.
circular
Deep-water waves cause water particles to move in a ________________________ orbit.
T
Internal waves generally can have greater wave heights than surface waves.
F
Intersecting waves always cancel each other out.
swell
Long period, uniform waves propagating away from the storm center are called _______________.
B
The most common generating force for ocean waves is a. tidal forces. b. the wind. c. tectonic forces. d. submarine earthquakes. e. disruptive schools of fish.
potential, kinetic
Energy in a wave comes in two forms, ___________________________ energy due to changes in elevation and _____________________ energy due to motion of water particles.
D
Episodic waves are related to a. changing water depths. b. strong currents. c. intersecting wave trains. d. all of the above. e. none of the above.
C
Far from a storm center, the first waves to arrive at some location will be a. short-period waves, because of dispersion. b. long-period waves, because of diffraction. c. long-period waves, because of dispersion. d. short-period waves, because of diffraction. e. long-period waves, because of refraction.
E
The most important factors controlling the height of a wave are a. how long the wind blows in a given direction. b. the distance over which the wind blows. c. how fast the wind blows. d. the latitude of the blowing wind. e. a, b, and c above.
T
The period is the time required for a wavelength to pass a stationary point.
T
The period of a standing wave is related to the physical dimensions of the basin.
F
The period of a wave will change with distance from the storm center because of dispersion.
E
The restoring force for ________ is surface tension. a. capillary waves b. progressive wind waves c. ripples d. tsunamis e. a and c above
surface tension
The restoring force for capillary waves is _____________________ _____________________.
gravity
The restoring force for gravity waves is _________________________.
equilibrium
The undisturbed sea surface is sometimes called the _________________________________ surface.
period, wavelength
The velocity of propagation of a wave is related to the wave's __________________________ and ______________________________.
A
The velocity of shallow-water waves is a function of a. water depth. b. wave height. c. wavelength. d. wave period. e. wave frequency.
F
The vertical distance from the equilibrium surface to the top of the wave crest is the wave height.
B
The wavelength of a standing wave having one node in an open basin is a. 1/2 the length of the basin. b. 4 times the length of the basin. c. equal to the length of the basin. d. twice the width of the basin. e. 1/4 the width of the basin.
T
Tsunamis are unrelated to the tides.
T
Tsunamis travel as shallow-water waves in the open ocean.
interference
Two wave trains can approach from different directions, intersect, and produce ____________________________________ patterns.
T
Water particles at the top of a wave crest are moving in the direction of propagation of the wave.
refraction
Wave crests are bent as they move into shallow water in a process called _______________________________.
generating
Waves are created by an initial _______________________________ force.
B
When the steepness of a wave exceeds _______, it will break. a. 1:2 b. 1:7 c. 1:20 d. 1:5 e. 1:10
forced
When waves are being generated, they receive additional energy from the wind and are known as ___________________ waves.
Universal Sea State
Wind speeds and sea surface conditions are described by use of the _______________________________ __________ ________________ code
F
Wind wave speeds in the oceans are typically 100's of m/s.
A
. The area of the oceans that is best for producing high waves is a. between 40-50 degrees south. b. between 40-50 degrees north. c. between 40-50 degrees west. d. between 40-50 degrees east. e. there is no single best location.
E
. The speed of a wave is equal to a. the height divided by the frequency. b. the wavelength divided by the amplitude. c. the period divided by the wavelength. d. the amplitude divided by the period. e. the wavelength divided by the period.
E
. Tsunamis a. generally have small heights at sea. b. usually travel as a series of crests and troughs. c. have periods from 10 to 20 minutes. d. have wavelengths of 100 to 200 km. e. all of the above.
F
Most open-ocean waves are restored by the water's surface tension.
F
Most progressive wind waves are capillary waves.
period
Once a wave has been created, its _____________________ does not change.
F
Shallow-water waves create circular orbital motion in the water all the way to the sea floor.
B
Shallow-water waves travel in water whose depth is less than _______ of the wavelength of the wave. a. 1/2 b. 1/20 c. 1/3 d. 1/30 e. 1/10
T
Standing waves can form in both closed and open-ended basins.
T
The crests of internal waves can occasionally break the sea surface.
fetch
The distance over which wind blows in a single direction is the ________________.
F
The group speed is exactly twice the wave speed in deep water.
amplitude
The height of a wave is twice the wave's ______________________________.
T
The horizontal distance between adjacent crests and troughs is one-half the wavelength.
C
The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs is the a. height. b. period. c. wavelength. d. amplitude. e. frequency.
T
The low point of a wave is the trough.
steepness
____________________________ is the ratio between height and wavelength.