Milady Ch. 6 Skin Care Products: Chemistry, Ingredients and Selection

A gel is a type of what?

Cleanser

What are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) commonly used as?

Exfoliants.

How should products be stored to make them last longer?

In dark containers in cool temperatures.

How must ingredients be listed on cosmetic labels?

In descending order of predominance, starting with the highest concentration and ending with the lowest concentration.

What homecare product should be used on a weekly basis?

Masks.

What are delivery systems?

Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis.

Define organic.

Term used to describe natural-sourced ingredients that are grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.

What are carbombers used for?

Thickening creams and frequently used in gel products.

SPF 15 blocks what percent of UVB rays?

93%.

SPF 30 blocks what percent of UVB rays?

97%.

SPF 50 blocks what percent of UVB rays?

98%.

Define vegan.

A product that does not contain any animal ingredients or animal by-products.

What is an ampoule?

A small, sealed vile containing a single, premeasured application.

Benzoyl peroxide is primarily used for treating what?

Acne.

What do silicones do?

Act as vehicles for spreading in some products, including makeup.

What are fresheners?

Alcohol-free toners that contain botanicals and hydrators to soothe the skin.

Define natural.

All natural, terms often used in marketing for skin care products and ingredients derived from natural sources.

What is Quaternium-15?

All-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold and yeast. Probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies.

What is dihydroxyacetone (DHA)?

An ingredient that reacts with the proteins (keratin) on the surface cells of the skin and turns them darker.

What is titanium dioxide?

An inorganic sunscreen that reflects UVA and UVB.

Licorice is what?

Anti-inflammatory agent.

What are the benefits of lavender?

Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing and healing.

What type of toner has a higher alcohol content?

Astringent.

What are the benefits of using moisturizers and hydrators?

Balancing the oil-water content of the skin, nourishing skin through ingredients, protecting skin from the elements.

What are preservatives?

Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations; they kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling.

What are polymers?

Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin's surface at a microscopically controlled rate.

What is a delivery system?

Chemical systems that deliver ingredients to specific areas of the epidermis.

A cream is a type of what?

Cleanser

A lotion is a type of what?

Cleanser

What term refers to a detergent-type "foaming" cleanser?

Cleansing gel.

What are liposomes?

Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release.

What do lubricants do?

Coat the skin and reduce friction.

What is one of the fattiest and healthiest plant oils?

Coconut oil.

How often should clients exfoliate at home?

Depends on skin type or condition and manufacturers instructions.

What is hemp seed oil?

Derived from hemp seeds, very light botanical oil used as an emollient.

What is palm oil?

Derived from the oil palm tree; one of the fattiest and heaviest oils used as an emollient.

Define anhydrous.

Describes products that do not contain any water.

What are the main types of surfactants used in skin-cleansing products?

Detergents.

What are self-tanning lotions formulated with?

Dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

Clay masks do what?

Draw impurities to the surface of the skin as it dries and tightens.

What is liquid paraffin?

Emollient ingredient derived from petroleum sources.

What is a lanolin?

Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities.

What are fatty esters?

Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols.

What are fatty alcohols?

Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.

What are fatty acids?

Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.

What do glycoproteins do?

Enhance moisture content, immune response, and cellular metabolism, which boosts cellular oxygen intake.

What are the properties of urea?

Enhancing the penetrative abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin's surface and helps maintain healthy skin.

What term refers to ingredients used to dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin?

Enzymes.

Where in the body are alpha lipoic acids found?

Every cell.

What are cosmetics?

FDA; articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance.

What are lipids?

Fats or fat-like substances; help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin.

What are emollients?

Fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize the skin.

Alginate masks do what?

Form a seal that encourages the skin's absorption of the serum or cream underneath; come in powder form and are mixed with water or serums, and dry to form a rubberized texture.

What term refers to skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content?

Fresheners.

Fragrances do what?

Give products their scent.

What do fragrances do?

Give products their scent.

Setting masks do what?

Harden and contain ingredients which dry and provide a complete barrier on top of the skin.

What element turns a fatty acid into a fatty alcohol?

Hydrogen.

What are cosmeceuticals intended to do?

Improve the skin's health and appearance.

Define fragrance-free.

Indicates that no other ingredients have been added to a product to specifically provide a fragrance; however, it may already contain ingredients that have a scent.

What are functional ingredients?

Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as a lotion, cream or gel.

What are performance ingredients?

Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

What type of ingredient is used to improve the hydration, plumpness and smoothness of the skin?

Lipids.

What products coat the skin and reduce friction?

Lubricants.

What do emollients do?

Lubricate the skin's surface.

What are eye creams formulated to do?

Maintain healthy skin around the area which has the most delicate skin on the entire body.

Green tea, caviar and retinol are known to be beneficial for what type of skin?

Mature skin.

What is zinc oxide?

Mineral physical sunscreen ingredient that reflects UVA and UVB rays; also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic and antimicrobial.

Where are noncertified colors obtained from?

Mineral, plant or animal sources.

What type of color agent is not subject to FDA batch certification requirements?

Noncertified colors.

Treatment creams are also known as what?

Nourishing creams.

What do emulsifiers cause to mix in order to form an emulsion?

Oil and water.

What are essential oils?

Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche.

What are parabens?

One of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against diverse organisms.

What is methylparaben?

One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic.

What are moisturizers?

Products formulated to add moisture to the skin.

What are unscented products?

Products formulated to have no smell; because most ingredients in a formulation do have an odor, more ingredients have to be added to neutralize the smell.

Define hypoallergenic.

Refers to ingredients or products that may be less likely to cause allergic reactions.

What does the FDA do?

Regulates cosmetics only in the areas of safety, labeling, and the claims made for a product; do not require approval of cosmetics before their manufacture or sale.

What are cleansers?

Soaps or detergents that clean the skin.

What are examples of ingredients that are used to adjust the pH of products?

Sodium hydroxide and citric acid.

What are vehicles?

Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective.

Nonsetting masks are designed to do what?

Stay moist and more hydrating.

What are emulsifiers?

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix to form an emulsion.

Define cruelty-free.

Term used to describe products that are not tested on animals at any stage of the production process; nor are any of its ingredients tested on animals.

A product should not be used when/if?

There is any reaction within 24 hours.

Modelage masks are what?

Thermal masks that contain crystals of gypsum, and reach approx. 105 degrees F.

How do synthetic ingredients compare to ingredients derived from nature?

They can be just as effective and may have certain advantages, such as no use of pesticides or not leaving an ecological footprint.

SPF is based on what?

Time; how long the product will protect you from UVB rays.

What is an example of an inorganic physical substance?

Titanium Dioxide.

A freshener is a type of what?

Toner

A tonic is a type of what?

Toner

An astringent is a type of what?

Toner

What are astringents?

Toners formulated for oily or acne-prone skin that may contain hydroxy acids and various amounts of alcohol; liquids used to remove excess oil from the skin.

How often should moisturizers be used at home?

Twice daily.

What are detergents?

Type of surfactants used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products.

What are the benefits of green tea?

UV protection, anti-aging, antibacterial, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, brightening, soothing, enhances photoprotection.

What are cleansing gels?

Water-based foaming cleansers that are generally the most popular type of cleanser and may be formulated for all skin types.

Paraffin masks are what?

Wax masks used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients deeper into the skin through heat trapped

What are glycoproteins derived from?

Yeast