Textiles chapter 3
shrinkage resistance
ability of the fabric to retain its original dimensions throughout care
Thermoplastic
1. Materials that repeatedly soften when heated and harden when cooled 2. Most synthetic fibers are thermoplastic - Fibers that soften or melt on exposure to heat - May be used to permanently set pleats or shape with careful control of heat 3. Heat setting 1. Applying heat and pressure in a controlled manner 2. It permanently changes the shape and 3. Improves the dimensional stability of thermoplastic fibers
polymerization
A chemical process that combines several monomers to form a polymer.
covering power
Means the ability of a fabric to hide what is beneath it or obscure an object - Fibers with texture or crimp have better covering power than do smooth fibers.
Progressive shrinkage
Occurs each time the product is laundered
filament tow
Produced as a loose rope of several thousand fibers, is crimped or textured, measured in yards and meters
relaxtion shrinkage
Usually completed after the first few laundering
heat or thermal conductivity
a fibers ability to transfer heat through a fabric.
heat sensitivity
a fibers reaction to heat
cohesiveness
ability of fibers to cling together during spinning, can be a factor in durability, fibers with good cohesiveness tend to resist raveling or slippin during use
wicking
ability for the fiber to transfer moisture along its surface
dimensional stability
ability of a fabric to retain its original size and shape through use and care which is desirable includes shrink resistance, elastic recovery, creep, mildew, moth resistance
resiliency
ability of a textile to RETURN to original shape after bending, twisting, crushing
elasticity or elasticity recovery
ability of a textile to return to its original dimension or shape after elongation
electrical conductivity
ability to carry or transport electrical charges, good absorbancy fabrics tend to be good conducters but do not build up static charges
allergenic potential
ability to cause physical reactions such as skin redness resulting from exposure to the fiber. usually people claim being allergic to wool but are just sensitive
compressibility resiliency
ability to spring back to the original thickness after being compressed
elongation
ability to stretch without breaking It refers only to the fact that a fiber can be lengthened, not that it will return to its original length or to a percentage of its original length
absorbancy
ability to take in moisture form the body or environment
tenacity
ability to with stand a heavy pulling force
light resistance
ability to withstand exposure to light without color fading or fiber weakening
hydrophilic vs phobic
absorb moisture, little to no abosorbancy
hygroscopic
absorbs moistures without feeling wet
stretching/drawing
causes the chains to slide and become more parallel to each other and to the longitudinal axis of the fiber. it also reduces fiber diameter and compacts the molecules
2. Hydrophilic fibers electrical conductivity
cotton and rayon - Are not likely to build up static electricity unless the atmosphere is very dry -Manufacturers can use: - Finishes (add moisture absorption & adsorption) - & Fiber engineering can increase conductivity
edge abrasion
cuff edge
creep
delayed or gradual recovery from elongation
surface contour
describes the outer surface of the fiber along its length may be smooth, serrated, striated, or rough, and it affects luster, hand, texture and apparent soiling of the fabric
flat abrasion
feet on carpet, arm of a chair
visual inspection/ fiber indentification
fiber length luster/ body/ texture/hand
piling
formation of tiny balls of fiber ends on the fabric surface, results from abrasion
oreinted molecular chain
have a high degree of oreintation, fibers that are highly oriented are also highly crystalline but not all crystalline fibers are oriented less space
flammability
how a fabric reacts to ignition sources and how it burns
natural fibers
in fiber form as they grow or develop and come from animal, plant, or mineral sources
serviceability
includesthe concepts of aesthetics, durability, comfort, safety, appearance, retention, care, environmental concersn, sustainability cost
filaments
long, continuous fiber strands of indefinite length, measured in miles or kilometers maybe one filament(mono) or multifilament
manufactured/man made fibers
made into fiber form from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities
burn test reaction
manner of burning, smoke color and odor/ residue types of residue
density or specific gravity
measure of fiber weight per unit volume low density fibers can be made into thicker fabrics that lighter and more comfortable than high density Water - 1.0 Olefin - 0.91 Glass - 2.54
natural fibers fineness are measured in
micrometers 1/1000mm or 1/25,400
crystalline molecular chain
molecular chains that are organized parallel to each and to the fibers lengthwise axis are oreinted High crystallinity create strong fibers - Stronger - oriented - enhances strengthen - Cellulose - cotton, flax, rayon - fibers with this type of arrangement
flex abrasion
olded textiles, drapery hem on a floor
amorphous molecular chain
polymer chain not parallel, random unorganized weak flexible, absorbant low elastic good elongation properties Random, unorganized arrangement of: - Long chain molecules within a fiber - Spaces in these areas - Absorb dyes, finishes & moisture - Add flexibility & stretch-ability
dyeability
receptive to coloration by dyes usually fibers that absorb water well dye well
aging resistance
resistance to deleterious changes over time
moth or insect resistance
resistance to insect damage
chemical resistance
resistance to react with chemicals
mildew resistance
resistance to the growth of mold mildew, or fungus
compressibility
resitance to crushing
luster
sheen caused by light reflections from the fabrics surface
longitudinal markings on fabric is
striations or shadowed valleys, which are results from indentations or valleys in the fiber cross section
oleophilic
strong affinty for oil usually hyrophobic fibers
cover
the ability of a fiber to conceal or protect
translucence
the ability of a textile to allow light to pass through it
abrasion resistance
the ability of a textile to withstand the rubbing it gets during use ard to predict; depends upon 1. Construction of yarn & fabric - fancy yarn 2. Abrandant - how rough 3. Amount of pressure between fabric & abrandant 4. Frequency & time duration of abrasion 5. Tension exerted on fabric while being abraded
flexibility
the ability to bend or fold, bend repeatdly without breaking
strength
the ability to resist stress
fabric crimp
the bends caused by distortion of yarns due to weaving and knitting FROM STRUCTURE FABRIC
cross sectional shape
the cross sectional shape of a fiber affects, luster, bulk texture and hand
diameter
the diameter greatly influences the fabrics performance and hand large fibers are crisp, rough and stiff. also the resisting crushing - a property that is important in products like carpets fine fibers are soft and pliable
texture
the nature of the textiles surface natural fibers tend to give more texture than man made
degree of polymerization
the number of moecules connected in a chain, long chains indicate a high degree of polymerization and a high degree of fiber strength
fiber crimp
the waves bends twists, coils or curls along the length of a fiber it increases cohesiveness, resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, bulk, and warmth it increases absorbancy and skin contact comfort but reduces luster
drape
the way a fabric hangs over a 3d form.
hand
the way the textile feels to the skin
denier per filament
way of indentifiying fiber size, it is often used when describing or specifiying yarns yarn size divided by number of fliaments
denier
weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn
Staple fibers
—short - All natural fibers, except silk (filament) are staple - short fibers - Measured in centimeters or inches - range from less than 1 inch to 18 inches long - Manufactured fibers and silk may be cut into short lengths