Textiles chapter 3

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shrinkage resistance

ability of the fabric to retain its original dimensions throughout care

Thermoplastic

1. Materials that repeatedly soften when heated and harden when cooled 2. Most synthetic fibers are thermoplastic - Fibers that soften or melt on exposure to heat - May be used to permanently set pleats or shape with careful control of heat 3. Heat setting 1. Applying heat and pressure in a controlled manner 2. It permanently changes the shape and 3. Improves the dimensional stability of thermoplastic fibers

polymerization

A chemical process that combines several monomers to form a polymer.

covering power

Means the ability of a fabric to hide what is beneath it or obscure an object - Fibers with texture or crimp have better covering power than do smooth fibers.

Progressive shrinkage

Occurs each time the product is laundered

filament tow

Produced as a loose rope of several thousand fibers, is crimped or textured, measured in yards and meters

relaxtion shrinkage

Usually completed after the first few laundering

heat or thermal conductivity

a fibers ability to transfer heat through a fabric.

heat sensitivity

a fibers reaction to heat

cohesiveness

ability of fibers to cling together during spinning, can be a factor in durability, fibers with good cohesiveness tend to resist raveling or slippin during use

wicking

ability for the fiber to transfer moisture along its surface

dimensional stability

ability of a fabric to retain its original size and shape through use and care which is desirable includes shrink resistance, elastic recovery, creep, mildew, moth resistance

resiliency

ability of a textile to RETURN to original shape after bending, twisting, crushing

elasticity or elasticity recovery

ability of a textile to return to its original dimension or shape after elongation

electrical conductivity

ability to carry or transport electrical charges, good absorbancy fabrics tend to be good conducters but do not build up static charges

allergenic potential

ability to cause physical reactions such as skin redness resulting from exposure to the fiber. usually people claim being allergic to wool but are just sensitive

compressibility resiliency

ability to spring back to the original thickness after being compressed

elongation

ability to stretch without breaking It refers only to the fact that a fiber can be lengthened, not that it will return to its original length or to a percentage of its original length

absorbancy

ability to take in moisture form the body or environment

tenacity

ability to with stand a heavy pulling force

light resistance

ability to withstand exposure to light without color fading or fiber weakening

hydrophilic vs phobic

absorb moisture, little to no abosorbancy

hygroscopic

absorbs moistures without feeling wet

stretching/drawing

causes the chains to slide and become more parallel to each other and to the longitudinal axis of the fiber. it also reduces fiber diameter and compacts the molecules

2. Hydrophilic fibers electrical conductivity

cotton and rayon - Are not likely to build up static electricity unless the atmosphere is very dry -Manufacturers can use: - Finishes (add moisture absorption & adsorption) - & Fiber engineering can increase conductivity

edge abrasion

cuff edge

creep

delayed or gradual recovery from elongation

surface contour

describes the outer surface of the fiber along its length may be smooth, serrated, striated, or rough, and it affects luster, hand, texture and apparent soiling of the fabric

flat abrasion

feet on carpet, arm of a chair

visual inspection/ fiber indentification

fiber length luster/ body/ texture/hand

piling

formation of tiny balls of fiber ends on the fabric surface, results from abrasion

oreinted molecular chain

have a high degree of oreintation, fibers that are highly oriented are also highly crystalline but not all crystalline fibers are oriented less space

flammability

how a fabric reacts to ignition sources and how it burns

natural fibers

in fiber form as they grow or develop and come from animal, plant, or mineral sources

serviceability

includesthe concepts of aesthetics, durability, comfort, safety, appearance, retention, care, environmental concersn, sustainability cost

filaments

long, continuous fiber strands of indefinite length, measured in miles or kilometers maybe one filament(mono) or multifilament

manufactured/man made fibers

made into fiber form from chemical compounds produced in manufacturing facilities

burn test reaction

manner of burning, smoke color and odor/ residue types of residue

density or specific gravity

measure of fiber weight per unit volume low density fibers can be made into thicker fabrics that lighter and more comfortable than high density Water - 1.0 Olefin - 0.91 Glass - 2.54

natural fibers fineness are measured in

micrometers 1/1000mm or 1/25,400

crystalline molecular chain

molecular chains that are organized parallel to each and to the fibers lengthwise axis are oreinted High crystallinity create strong fibers - Stronger - oriented - enhances strengthen - Cellulose - cotton, flax, rayon - fibers with this type of arrangement

flex abrasion

olded textiles, drapery hem on a floor

amorphous molecular chain

polymer chain not parallel, random unorganized weak flexible, absorbant low elastic good elongation properties Random, unorganized arrangement of: - Long chain molecules within a fiber - Spaces in these areas - Absorb dyes, finishes & moisture - Add flexibility & stretch-ability

dyeability

receptive to coloration by dyes usually fibers that absorb water well dye well

aging resistance

resistance to deleterious changes over time

moth or insect resistance

resistance to insect damage

chemical resistance

resistance to react with chemicals

mildew resistance

resistance to the growth of mold mildew, or fungus

compressibility

resitance to crushing

luster

sheen caused by light reflections from the fabrics surface

longitudinal markings on fabric is

striations or shadowed valleys, which are results from indentations or valleys in the fiber cross section

oleophilic

strong affinty for oil usually hyrophobic fibers

cover

the ability of a fiber to conceal or protect

translucence

the ability of a textile to allow light to pass through it

abrasion resistance

the ability of a textile to withstand the rubbing it gets during use ard to predict; depends upon 1. Construction of yarn & fabric - fancy yarn 2. Abrandant - how rough 3. Amount of pressure between fabric & abrandant 4. Frequency & time duration of abrasion 5. Tension exerted on fabric while being abraded

flexibility

the ability to bend or fold, bend repeatdly without breaking

strength

the ability to resist stress

fabric crimp

the bends caused by distortion of yarns due to weaving and knitting FROM STRUCTURE FABRIC

cross sectional shape

the cross sectional shape of a fiber affects, luster, bulk texture and hand

diameter

the diameter greatly influences the fabrics performance and hand large fibers are crisp, rough and stiff. also the resisting crushing - a property that is important in products like carpets fine fibers are soft and pliable

texture

the nature of the textiles surface natural fibers tend to give more texture than man made

degree of polymerization

the number of moecules connected in a chain, long chains indicate a high degree of polymerization and a high degree of fiber strength

fiber crimp

the waves bends twists, coils or curls along the length of a fiber it increases cohesiveness, resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, bulk, and warmth it increases absorbancy and skin contact comfort but reduces luster

drape

the way a fabric hangs over a 3d form.

hand

the way the textile feels to the skin

denier per filament

way of indentifiying fiber size, it is often used when describing or specifiying yarns yarn size divided by number of fliaments

denier

weight in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or yarn

Staple fibers

—short - All natural fibers, except silk (filament) are staple - short fibers - Measured in centimeters or inches - range from less than 1 inch to 18 inches long - Manufactured fibers and silk may be cut into short lengths


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