Fashion History Exam

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Preppy

of or typical of a student or graduate, of an expensive prep school, especially with reference to their style of dress.

Homburg

(n.) a man's felt hat having a narrow curled brim

bouffant

(of a person's hair) styled so as to puff out in a rounded shape.

Fake fur

- made from limited natural resources - oil and petroleum, or vegan leather made from renewable products such as recycled plastics and fruit wast. - some of it due to the work of conservationists and animal rights activists.animal rights

Skimmer Dress

-A-line -Sleeveless or short sleeves -Princess Lines -End just below knee A-line dress with side darts that shape it slightly to the body.

Power Dressing (1980s)

-John T. Malloy's Dress for Success: tips for dressing for your profession,"dress for the job you want, not the one you already have", inspired more adaptation of menswear for women >>pantsuits

power suit

A blue suit, white shirt, and nice tie, and generally fits looser than a slim cut suit. Conservative, fitted suit worn by men or women to depict a sense of confidence,authority, power, and .professionalism.

Chelsea Boot

A boot with elastic side panels. Type of ankle boot which have a boot which have replaced the oxford or loafer shoes. Actually have been around in one form or another since the 1850's and the Beatles wore them with their suits in the 1960's

wedge (hairstyle)

A bowl cut tapered to the nape of the neck

halter dress

A dress that has a fitted bodice, and waistline is placed above the natural waist, sometimes right below the bust. The skirt is typically long with a loose fit that skims the body and elongates the figure.

style tribe

A group of people who dress in a particular style to show their membership in the group. Ex: mods and rockers, beatnicks, hippies.

shag haircut

A hairstyle that could be styled short or long and has been layered to various lengths.The layers make the hair full around the crown, and the hair thins to fringes around the edges. Influenced by the hippies.

Spool Heel

A heel that is wide at the top and bottom and narrower in the middle, so resembling a cotton reel or an hourglass

Jellies

A injection molded shoe made out of plastic that came in many colors—and glitter, was cheap, and originally retailed for as little as $1.00. They even could be scented. Cheap way to brighten up style.

Polo Shirt

A knitted, button-front shirt with half sleeves and a small, flat collar with pointed tips. Used for sport wear

Blazer

A lightweight, semi-fitted sport coat.

tea gown

A loosely fitted dress worn without a corset in the privacy of the home or with women friends.

jumpsuit

A one-piece garment of a shirt and ankle-length pants, usually with a front zipper.

Stockings

A plastic garment covering the entire foot and to the hip to prevent leakage and odor.

pencil skirt

A slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. (It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil.)

Middy Blouse

A straight blouse with a braid-trimmed sailor collar, bearing the nickname of the English midshipmen-the three stripes on the collar represent the three great naval victories of Lord Nelson

Saddle Shoes

A two toned oxford with an ornamental strip of leather across the instep.

mini skirt

A very short skirt that ends well above the knees. First came into popularity between 1963-1970.

Housecoat

A woman's long, loose, lightweight robe for informal wear around the house.

slip

A woman's undergarment worn beneath a dress or skirt. A full slip hangs from the shoulders, usually by means of narrow straps, and extends from the breast to the fashionable skirt length.

Boater hat

semi-formal summer hat for men, which was popularized in the late 19th century and early 20th century. It is normally made of stiff sennit straw and has a stiff flat crown and brim, typically with a solid or striped grosgrain ribbon around the crown.

Hankercheif hem

skirts with asymmetric hems, created from fabric panels of different lengths sewn together, to create a hem with several corners that hang down as points.

Girdle

structure that encircles the body

Panty Briefs

Also called undies or knickers in British English) are a form of underwearprimarily worn by women. Panties can be form-fitting or loose.

Peg top skirt

Also had a very small circumference at the hem but had draped fullness around the hip.

Spectator Shoes

Also known as co-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled, oxford, semi-brogue or full brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe

Beehive

An upswept, bouffant version of the French twist, popular in the 50s, 60s, and early 70s. (for Fashion History purposes, 60's and early 70's)

braces, suspenders

Are fabric or leather straps worn over the shoulders to hold up trousers. The straps may be elasticated, either entirely or only at attachment ends, and most straps are of woven cloth forming an X or Y shape at the back.

Juicy Couture

Around since the late 1990's, but was a major fashion fad in the early 2000's and was most represented by the velour track suites worn with the logo across the bum.

Gym Body

As we move through the 2000's increasingly, one of the most important male aesthetics is a hyper-masculine physique that only comes from lots of hours in the gym

Toms

Canvas shoe with rubber sole, slip on. Began in 2006, the founder wanted a way to provide shoes to children in countries who did not have them so they give to charity one pair for every pair sold.

Permanent Wave

Chemically rearranging straight hair into a curly or wavy form

Grunge

Early 1990s; started by the youth culture in the Pacific Northwest region of the US; messy, uncombed, and disheveled. Some main pieces : -Flannel shirts -Doc Martins -Baby doll dresses -Ripped vintage jeans

trend

Elements of fashion that define a historical period, and are part of the social and fashion culture for an extended period of time.

Dispepsia Front

Shirt style or on dresses that made it look as if a woman had a bloated stomach or buldge (sort of sits at the waist.

micro mini skirt

Shortest version of mini skirt from the 60's. Hem reached around the thickest part of the thigh.

earth shoes

Ergonomic shoes that were part of the Natural Style

Fashion Influencer

Examples would be magazines, however they are being taken over by online media such as, Twitter, Instagram (2010), and Pinterest (2010)

fanny pack

Existed since the 60's when they were worn by ski patrollers to carry supplies when they were skiing. Become part of the Athleisure movement and were worn as part of a casual sporty look.

Tailor Made

Factory made rather than handmade.

What is the difference between pantyhose and tights?

the difference between sheer leg and an opaque leg. Pantyhose are sheerer, therefore being transparent. Tights on the other-hand, are opaque, being of a heavier knit nylon or even cotton or wool, that do not permit transparency.

Waist

the narrowing of the body between the ribs and hips

retro

the revival of a look or style from a former period but not exactly in the same form or with the same companion elements or for the same use or occasion. New clothing made into older styles.

stretch pants

trousers made of a stretchy fabric. trouser, pant - (usually in the plural) a garment extending from the waist to the knee or ankle, covering each leg separately

Oxford bags

trousers with excessively wide legs that could be slipped on over the knickers

Drawers

underwear

Dockers

was the brand name for khaki pants that most people also called Chinos. They have been around since the second world war, but in the 1990's became a staple of men's (and really, women's) wardrobes.

crocs

waterproof, no-slip shoe, with perforated front and a sling back. 2003

1965 Sports Coat

Sometimes pattered such as plaid, two buttons, rounded cutaway, became an important part to men's wardrobe in the 60's.

leisure suit

Sportswear item that became popular in the 1970's. The basic look was Square jacket, Patch pockets, Non tailored jacket. Supported the changing roles in society, a middle class man with more time off. Didn't last long, existed mostly in the 70's and a bit in the 80's and was gone very early.

Nehru jacket

Straight, slim, hip-length jacket, buttoned in front to a straight, standing collar; These would be Mod (counter culture) inspired jackets for men worn in place of a sport coat. Based on the design of a jacket popularized by Jawarharlal Nehru, Indian Prime Minister, and worn in the late 60s and early 70s.

Punk Fashion

Style of the 70's but reached its peak during the 90's. As with Hip Hop is is hard to define all that was the trend, but generally black and bright colors, body modifications, torn, vintage clothes and Doc Martins—the shoes.

Fashion

Synonymous with Fashion after the latter part of the middle ages, implies styles of fixed duration.

midriff shirt

Term in the 80's which we now call crop-tops. Shirt that exposes the waist, navel, or abdomen.

Underpants

Term that came from the 1960's (1965-1968) to describe what was previously called panties.

Silhoutte

The basic shape of clothing and dress for a specific style/fashion.

French Cuff

The most formal style of open-band cuff. Constructed like the barrel cuff but twice as wide.

Style

The predominate form of dress in a given period or culture.

Tevas

were originally designed and made for those who work in the water—like kayaker's—as they did not hold water and had traction when wet. As often in the case, they move into contemporary fashion when they are taken outside of their original use and worn by others.

Walking Dress

were worn on outdoor occasions when one wanted to see and be seen. They are often referred to as Promenade Dresses, a very literal definition of their purpose.

Guacho skirt

wide-legged trousers for women with a cuff that ends around mid calf

slip dress

woman's dress that closely resembles an under slip or petticoat, however was worn as an outer garment

Culottes

women's knee-length trousers, cut with very full legs to resemble a skirt

nylons

women's stockings made from a sheer material (nylon or rayon or silk)

Zubaz

First designed in the 1980's they come into their own from 1990-1995. These were loose and distinctly patterned pants originally worn for exercise. They were created for body builders whose physique required larger and roomer pants to work out in

Slap bracelet

Flexible stainless steel bands covered in fabric. Designed in 1983, but introduced in 1993 at an international toy fair and quickly become favorites of boys and girls.

casual Friday

Friday designated as a day on which employees are allowed to dress less formally than on other workdays

Man Bun

Grown out of the Grunge style tribe and be part of the Metrosexual style tribe as well.

bobbed hair

Hairstyle that is typically cut straight around the head at about jaw-level, often with a fringe (or "bangs") at the front. Women cutting the hair to shoulder length, can either be curled out or inwards of the neck.

Ankle Cropped Pants

Hard to date exactly, but by 2010, some men's pants are hemmed at the ankle—and often worn without socks.

Uggs

Have been around sin the 1970's in one form or another. !994 when they were worn at the winter Olympics, they had grown in popularity. Originally made from sheepskin with the fur worn on the inside and the suede worn on the outside (the opposite of how it is on the animal).

coat dress

Heavy dress, closes down the front like a coat. Worn as the main garment

Clocking

If stockings are to venture further into that time period then the next level for stockings to go would be to be 'clocked'. 'Clocking' a stocking means embroidering the ankle of the stocking where a 'gusset'/wedge has been added to give it shape.

Acid wash denim

In the late 1980's the denim industry developed a new finish for garments after they were sewn. The dry clothes were rotated in a drum with pumice stones that had been soaked in a chlorine. Marketed as "white washed", "stone washed", "snow washed", "frosted washed".

rubber boots

In the mid 2000's a favorite was the rubber boot based on the English Wellington Boot, which is a knee high, waterproof pull-on boot.

Dress

Includes garments AND aspects of personal appearance that can be changed.

Miami Vice look

Influenced by the television show and movie American Gigolo. "that Florida look".

English Drape Suit

Jackets with wider shoulders and more fitted at the hips. Slight drape or wrinkle through the chest and shoulders.

Jeggings

Jeans + leggings mostly for women however men do wear them, and typically casual wear however some can be suited for more formal situations

Kangol Bucket Hat

Kangol is a brand name of a hat that was originally worn by laborers and soldiers and has been around in one form or another since the 1920's. Originally tan, it comes today in many colors and still is a feature of the Hip Hop style tribe.

granny dresses

Long daytime dresses; popular among the young in the early 70s. Co-opted from the hippie movement in 1968

Sack Suit

Man's coat introduced with no waistline seam, straight front, center vent in back, sleeves without cuffs, and small collar with short lapels, edges of the coat were bound or double stitched.

Top Hat

Man's tall hat made of shiny silk or beaver cloth with narrow brim, sometimes slightly rolled at the sides, crown is flat topped.

chinos

Military pants that were lightweight fabric for uniforms. Got its name from chino cloth which was made China.

Top-siders/Dock-siders

Popularized in the 70's. But have been around since the 1930's originally designed to be worn topside on a boat, anti-slip soles, and came on and off easy.

Neon Clothing

Roughly 1984-1986, and was part of the move to a more personalized vibrant choice in fashion.

parachute pants

Seems to have developed from the break-dancing culture. Made of rip stop nylon (parachute fabric) or a polished nylon. Had zippered pockets and and zipper at ankles to make the legs taper.

Shirt waist

Separates. Women's shirts, made of cotton or Muslin.

Super low-rise pants

The waist of the pants is considerably lower than the natural waist. This was a trend for both men and women. Meant cut almost down to the butt crack, or not to be crass but pubic hair in the front.

Lingerie dress

The white cotton or linen dress, ornamented with tucks, ruffles, and lace

Logger boots

These boots have a rubber or leather upper that extends over the ankles. The thick rubber sole beaks steel nails or spikes for traction. Were worn by loggers for years

Vera Bradley bags

These were an extension of the designer handbag craze. Around since 1982 the quilted bags had a resurgence in the 2000's. The quilted handbag is a remnant of the 1970's and were part of the hippie style tribe

Slides

They are slip on shoes meant to be worn originally in the locker room and then are elevated to designer status They are part of the Athleisure movement

Velcro Wallet

They had been around since the 1970's and were used by men worried that their wallet would fall open due to their occupation--fall out of pocket while working. Athletes also used them, think surfers.

Silicon Cause Bracelets

They started with the Live Strong Bracelets (Cancer) and moved from there. Not all silicon bracelets were attached to a cause. In a way replaced cause ribbons.

Performance Fabric

Think Under Armor. They are synthetic fabrics originally created for athletes to help performance or comfort—the sleek swimming suits worn at the Olympics

Hip-Hop

This inner city music style in moved into the culture. No definitive list of what was worn because each artist took their own specific take on the style. Some accessories included: Women: Large gold earrings, Bare midriffs, Loose track pants, Head coverings: ball caps or bandannas, Sneakers, Overalls Men: Gold jewelry, Loose track suits and loose pants and logo tops, Head coverings: ball caps or Kangol Bucket Hat,Sneakers

Broomstick skirt

This is an ankle length skirt made of cotton that takes its name from the way it was made. After the skirt is made is is dampened and wrapped around a broomstick to get it's wrinkles that run from waist to hem. Actually by the 2000's the wrinkles come from a chemical process instead of the broomstick.

Band Collar Shirts

This was a shirt with a collar like we saw when men wore collars that attached with studs—think during the Edwardian period. Attached with sewn in button

Costume

Used as a synonym for dress by scholars who study historic dress and work in the museum field.

Four-in-hand tie

a necktie with a slip-knot, originally used by coachmen to tie the reins of four horses together, our modern ties originate from this method.

bodysuit

a one-piece form-fitting, and/or skin-tight garment that covers the torso and the crotch, and sometimes, the legs, hands, and feet, and cannot be used as a swimsuit

pince-nez (pans-nay)

a pair of eyeglasses with a nose clip instead of earpieces.

tights

a piece of women's clothing made of very thin material that covers the legs and bottom

cocktail dress

a short or long dress worn by a woman for a special occasion, often made with special, fine fabrics

Union Suit

a single undergarment combining shirt and pants

soul patch

a small patch of hair centered beneath the lip

Bow tie

a special type of tie (= a strip of cloth put around a collar), worn especially by men on formal occasions

crinoline

a stiff coarse fabric used to stiffen hats or clothing

fad

a temporary period of unusually high sales driven by consumer enthusiasm and immediate product or brand popularity, have a short lifespan

stilettos

a very high heel on a woman's shoe

halterneck

a woman's garment held up by a strap around the neck.

pageboy

a woman's hairstyle consisting of a shoulder-length (just below the ear) bob with the ends curled under.

Petticoat

a woman's light, loose undergarment hanging from the shoulders or the waist, worn under a skirt or dress.

Camisole

a woman's loose-fitting undergarment for the upper body, typically held up by shoulder straps and having decorative trimming.

pixie cut

a woman's short hairstyle in which the hair is cropped in layers, typically so as to create a slightly tousled effect.

Beatnick

a young person in the 1950s and early 1960s belonging to a subculture associated with the beat generation.

Pompadour

an arrangement of a man's hair in which it is brushed up high from the forehead

Tuxedo

an ensemble (or outfit) of clothing which includes a white dress shirt, a bow tie, dress pants, a suit jacket (sometimes called a dinner jacket), leather dress shoes, and sometimes a vest or cummerbund, top hat and gloves. In European countries, this outfit is called black tie. Many men wear this outfit in Western countries on formal occasions like a marriage ceremony or a fancy party or dance.

gladiator sandals

an open-toed T-bar sandal with multiple straps running across the foot. Flat heel and straps that could go from the ankle to the knee, in a style designed to resemble that of the footwear of ancient Roman gladiators.

Inverness

an overcoat with a removable cape. ... (often lowercase) the cape of this coat or one resembling it, especially a loose, full, wool or worsted cape in a plaid pattern.

Brassiere

an undergarment worn by women to support their breasts (look at slides for examples of this time period)

Plus Fours - 1920's

baggy knickers reaching below the knee, worn especially by men for playing golf.

Bermuda Shorts/ Bermudas

casual knee-length shorts

Keffiyeh

checkered cloth traditionally worn by Palestinian men as head covering, however mostly were worn without the cultural significance.

vintage clothing

clothing from the 1920s to 20 years before the present day is considered vintage. Actually used, old clothing, purchased in vintage stores or second hand clothing stores.

Timberlands

created in 1973, are a brand name for a work boot, . Became a part of the Hip-Hop Style Tribe

Cufflinks

decorative objects used to fasten the cuffs on men's shirts

ripped jeans

denim jeans with tear or rips, often on the knees but possibly in other locations on the pant. They were popular in the late 1980s during the hard rock/heavy metal era and in the 1990s and 2000s during the grunge era.

Minaret tunic

exotic wide tunic boned to hold out the skirt over the narrowness of the hobble skirt

pashmina

fine goat's wool fabric used for making shawls; a large cashmere scarf or shawl from India. It could be printed or solid

Bishop Sleeve

gathered into the armhole and full below the elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist

Slim cut suit

has a narrow cut without much excess fabric, leading to a tighter fit that both looks more modern than regular fit suits in addition to flattering the wearer's body.

Cumberbund

is a broad waist sash in various designs including pleats, that was a worn with double-breasted tail coats, it is now often worn with single-breasted dinner jackets.

Palm Beach Suit

is a term used to describe the combination of navy blazer, button down oxford cloth shirt, stone colored chino's or khakis, and brown slip-on mocs like topsiders worn with no socks.

Trucker Hat/Snap Hat

is similar in shape to a baseball hat but is constructed in 6 pieces with a high foam front and a mesh back with a back snap fastener.

Wash Dress

item of clothing that can be laundered at home and then put on as attire right away without any need to iron.

Skinny jeans

jeans that are narrow and fitting closely to the body

Seersucker

light-weight cotton fabric with narrow blue and white vertical stripes

Knickers

loose-fitting short pants gathered at the knee

Ascot/cravat

masculine neckwear in the form of a broad scarf with a narrower neckband. it was folded and crossed over to show the flat square ends, then was held in place by a decorative tie-pin

Zoot Suit

men's clothing of extreme cut typically consisting of a thigh-length jacket with wide padded shoulders and baggy, pleated pants with narrow cuffs. An act of rebellion against fashion causing riots during World War 2.

Genderless Scent

.they are what they sound like can be worn by anyone—meaning a move from the idea that scents (perfumes) are gender based

Christian Dior's "New Look"

1947: - new fashion was once again launched for women - consisted of full skirts, tight waist, soft shoulders, and big hats - was said to show off a women's figure and to compliment her body nicely

socks

1960's- a soft covering for the foot and lower leg. Garters were not needed to keep them up

pantsuits

1965, 1968 -feminine version of the male business suit -tailored jacket and skirt in a dark color with blouse -Tapered or straight legs -Usually box style jackets

Dark Denim

2010 is a mainstay of jean selection, another option added to ripped, stone washed, distressed.... However is not black (that is another color choice) but rather a very dark blue

Preppy Revival

Close to 2010 we see a revival of the 1980's Prep Style, especially in the designs of Tommy Hilfiger. Basically it was the same colors and pieces: polos, chinos, loafers, just restyled for the 2000's. This is also a women's movement.

Bias Cut

Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely.

Boho

Derived from the term "bohemian"; a style from the early 2000's characterized by vibrant colors, softly flowing fabrics, and combinations of variously patterned fabrics, in part a revival of upscale hippie-influenced clothes of the 1960's and 1970's

Dad body

Desired male physique sometime around 2010. Hard to define but appears to be a middle age body that was once very physically fit that has now softened a bit. But still a rugged masculine physique.

Shirtwaist dress

Developed from shirtwaist blouse; the blouse extended to dress length and buttoned down the front to the waist level where it is belted

Dimdl Skirt

During World War II, women working in industrial work in war service wore their husbands' trousers, and in the post-war era trousers were still common casual wear for gardening, socialising, and other leisure pursuits[citation needed].

slacks 1940s

During World War II, women working in industrial work in war service wore their husbands' trousers, and in the post-war era trousers were still common casual wear for gardening, socialising, and other leisure pursuits[citation needed].

Shoulder Satchel, Messenger bags

Originally carried by bike messengers in New York City—increased in popularity with the metrosexuals and then move to a broader audience.

Granny Boots

Originated from the hippie style, Knee high, Laced up the front, Moderate heel

Graffiti Clothing

Popular trend for both men and women youth. Around 1985 influences from the urban hip-hop community and a new movement in recognizing graffiti as art found its way into fashion

bowler/derby hat

a man's hard felt hat with a round dome-shaped crown

body stocking

To be worn under transparent dresses. Generally it is flesh colored to give a nude impression and is constructed from fine, knitted fabrics.

Jams

Vibrantly colored baggy board shorts or swim trunks, with drawstring waist and a small pocket for surfboard wax. The name is drawn from the fact that they developed from a cut off pair of pajama pants.

Big Hair

Volumized hair became a popular style of the 80's most likely because of "punks" and "hairbands" such as Bon Jovi and Van Halen.

Flat top

Was a hairstyle worn by men of differing ethnicities. Type of short haircut where the hair on the top of the head is usually standing upright and cut to form a flat-appearing deck. This deck may be level, or it may be upward or downward sloping.

mini-crinolines

Was a mini skirt supported by a crinoline, roughly 1985-1989. Very popular in the prom dress.

Clothing

Wearing apparel

Athleisure

Wearing athletic apparel as street clothing

Step-in

Were more often like the aforementioned cami-kickers (i.e. camisole and tap panties combined), tap panties were often referred to as step-ins as well, during the late 1920s and into the 1940s.

Roll Garter

Were round soft covered elastic bands that rolled up the leg and then back down a little catching the top of the stocking

Sports Jacket

a man's jacket that is not part of a suit

yuppie

Yuppies—young urban professionals—were young professional adults who generally made a lot of money and wanted to show it off. They were generally politically liberal and fiscally conservative, who were rebelling against their suburban parents.

Hobble Skirt

`a style of skirt so narrow at the hem as to impede walking, popular in the 1910s

Garter

a band worn around the leg to keep up a stocking or sock

Stud

a boss, knob, nailhead, or other protuberance projecting from a surface or part, especially as an ornament. any of various button-like, usually ornamental objects, mounted on a shank that is passed through an article of clothing to fasten it

body shirt

a close-fitting blouse or shirt

Mary Janes

a closed, low-cut shoe with one or more straps across the instep.

Cami Knickers

a combination garment that put together a camisole with a skirt that buttoned under the crotch to form drawers

Ensemble

a complete costume of harmonizing or complementary clothing and accessorie

wrap dress

a dress popularized in 1974 with a front closure formed by wrapping one side across the other, and knotting the attached ties that wrap around the back at the waist or fastening button. Made Dianne Von Furstenberg's career.

shirt dress

a dress with a collar and buttons in the style of a shirt, typically cut without a seam at the waist.

Cloche

a fitted, bell-shaped hat for women that was invented in 1908 by milliner Caroline Reboux. They were especially popular from about 1922 to 1933. The French word for "bell".

maxi skirt

a floor length fashion

Mother Hubbard

a full loose gown for women. (look at slides for examples)

Spats

a gaiter-like covering for the instep and ankle, usually made of heavy cloth

Corset

a garment used to give shape and support to the body

Rachel Haircut

a hairstyle as representative of a period than the haircut for the character of Rachel on the television show Friends- The cut was created by her stylist, Chris McMillian as a way to deal with the biology of the actresses hair, and it was an update of a layered style that was seen as more youthful

metrosexual

a heterosexual male with a refined sense of fashion and taste with a preoccupation on their appearance

Hatpin

a long pin, typically with an ornamental head, that holds a woman's hat in position by securing it to her hair.

Kimono

a long, loose robe with wide sleeves and tied with a sash, originally worn as a formal garment in Japan and now also used elsewhere as a robe.

Tailcoat

a man's formal morning or evening coat, with a long skirt divided at the back into tails and cut away in front.


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